I figured since Iím new to the forum the best way to introduce myself would be to start a build thread. My name is Ed (or Zed) Iím 33 and Iíve been into RCís on and off for about 10yrs. I bought my Summit as a way to spend time with my girlfriend as she said she had an interest in RC rockcrawling. We both have Summitís and use them as means to motivate ourselves to go out and walk some of the bazillion trails found in Washington state. Iíve already done a few mods to my rig and thought the mod I did to the tranny gears to reduce the slop may be of interest to other Summit enthusiasts. With the exception of the brushless setup, most of the mods/parts have been done over the last 10wks (mostly the last 4wks).
So without wasting any more time here is my Summit the day I bought it from my LHS used for $375 with my 3.3 revo.
Okay, I have given up on resizing these pics as I've tried 3 times and they come out the same when I post them. So I apologize for the "in yo face" appearance, lol. Anywho, moving on...
It came with 8 battery packs, 4 of them were 4200mAh and the other 4 were 3000mAh which were dead and unable to hold a charge (I didnít found out after the purchase, lol). It was a decent price, but needed some TLC in order to be up to my standards. I managed to get a set of four complete axles and knuckles for $60 delivered off of eBay. The other issue that was a problem for me was the motor, the bushings were toast and it took almost a ľ throttle to get the truck to move. So before I even got to run the truck I ordered an HPI Flux/Castle Creations Mamba Max setup off of eBay for $270 shipped.
I ran the truck this way for a good while with NIMH batteries and saw 40min+ runtimes while crawling and some sprinting around. Many people have asked why I chose the HPI BL system over the regular Mamba Max and it came down to cost. The HPI branded items were cheaper by about $50 and give the same performance.
When I rebuilt the shocks I decided to add the variable dampening pistons to help stiffen up the compression stroke. I did this to help avoid bottoming out while jumping and still giving me the suspension travel needed to navigate obstacles.
My truck sat for about 6mo. until I managed to buy another Summit for my GF. Here is her truck we got for $440 shipped with a new stock motor in the package and 4 battery packs. Itís mostly stock except for now itís upgraded with a Mamba Max brushless setup. There is also 9oz of weight in each front wheel to help with the climbing.
Since we didnít get as good of a deal on her truck, I had to buy more batteries so we could run together. SoÖ.I took a leap of faith and bought 4 LiPo packs
Well, thats all for the moment, I have a 44pg word document on this subject so I'll finish at a later time.
Last edited by ksb51rl; 03-24-2013 at 10:40 PM. Reason: Content
Welcome what part of Washington are ya from?
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Thank you, I'm living in the Tacoma area at the moment. Hopefully this Friday I'll be closing on a house and then living in Yelm.
Right on. Yelm is a killer place for trail and climbing. if I'm not mistaken that have a huge skate park their lol. I haven been to yelm in a while.
l_l O l_____l O l
I like going to the skate park when its wet out. No one is there and it makes the ramps slick and makes it challenging to climb. I don't like to jump mine.
l_l O l_____l O l
After a few romps in the dirt I started to get a bit annoyed with all the crud that accumulates in the radio area of the truck. I put my creative energy to good use and came up with a set of cheap mudguards that work really well. Theyíre made from a milk jug and fastened to the chassis with 8 M2x4mm bolts I got from the local fastener specialty shop. Theyíre not the prettiest things being white, but Iím more of a function than fashion type of person. Future efforts will involve making a set tailored to my body of choice.
Since my truck was purchased used and came with Revo wheels/tires I decided it needed some new shoes. I refused to be pulled into the Proline fanclub and pay through the nose for nonbeadlock wheels and nothing special tires. So after searching around I came across a pretty good deal on a set of 40 series beadlock wheels with tires for $15.86 a pair!! The exception was that in order to have all the tires rotating in the correct direction you would have to take apart two of the wheels and flip the tires. For the price I think I can handle turning a few screws, lol.
These are from Team 1ntegy
Now these wheels werenít all that and a bag ďoĒ chips for one good reason, theyíre REALLY brittle. The plastic is prone to breaking on the flange that holds the tire to the rim. When this flange breaks the tire will come unseated. The good news is that all the broken pieces stay in the wheel which means repairs are much easier. A thick CA glue works really well in repairing the damage and although Iíve had to repair 2 wheels already (both from same accident) Iíve not managed to break the flange again. The foams are kinda firm and have a glue seam as they were foam strips glued in a circle. This isnít really an issue once you star cut the foams. I placed the glue line in valley of the points so it had little effect on the traction. As far as traction goes, Iím pretty happy with them as they have great grip for the type of romping I do. I had a feeling these wheels were junk, but the tires were worth the money so if all fails Iíll have cheap tires to put on a decent set of rims (Proline 23mm beadlocks or Axial BLís).
I thought about adding weights to the inside of the front wheels to aid in climbing, but I donít like the effect it has at higher speeds. So as a second best option I opted to place 3oz. of lead weight behind the bumper/skidplate. It isnít much, but itís definitely a step in the right direction. I may get another set of tires and load them up with weight, but for the time being Iím going to focus on other areas to improve. The only problem with placing the weights here is that it makes things difficult if you have to access the front diff. If that day comes Iíll deal with it.
Now that my GF has gotten onboard with the RC thing Iíve been going full steam on buying parts to finish out what I had in mind. The next thing was to get rid of the very functional, but very heavy stock body. Even though itís not much, the weight of the body being so high up can have an impact on the tip over tendency of the truck at extreme angles. So, being a VW guy I decided to do what any Vdubber would do and bought this.
Flames added for a little bit of spice. Iíve never done stencils before so this was a big deal for me as Iím not keen on the idea of a crappy looking body. Iíd rather have plain jane style than goofy graphics that look bad.
This put things into perspective for me as I now got to see how the flames were gonna play out with the colors I chose. Getting excitedÖ..
And the finished product
Now what I found a bit surprising was that this body barely fit on the Summit chassis. Iíve used this body on my 3.3 revo and had no issues with fitment, but on this platform the body posts are about Ĺ inch longer making the front have issues fitting over the bumper bracket. No biggie, just a little trimming and all is good. As you can see in the previous pic the mudguards I made fit nicely into the fender wells of the body. Iíve gone through some fairly deep puddles and the topside of my chassis was dry everywhere except the back area.
Last edited by ksb51rl; 03-24-2013 at 11:03 PM.
Now that the appearance was brought online, I decided to tackle something a bit cooler. After searching for information on how to convert to 4 wheel steering I came across a great thread written by Quadiak that discusses how it’s done. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ead-By-Quadiak . I started with the easy stuff like flipping the motor with a dual motor mount from an E-revo. This wasn’t a big deal except I’ve decided to drop my pinion gear to 11t. This brought the motor can too close to the transmission and wouldn’t allow me to gain the appropriate mesh. In fact, the teeth wouldn’t even come in contact.
First thing to go was to remove all the cheesy fins off of the motor can. I can only assume this is done for marketing as I’ve never been able to get it hot enough to be concerned even when I ran it in my 1/8 buggy on 4s. Either way, these little nubs had to go, so out came the needle nose pliers and I twisted my little heart out until I ended up with this.
Those fins added about 5x the surface area allowing the motor to cool down, so you've effectively just made the heatsink 5x less productive. Hopefully it doesn't get too hot now! Great build though, and having the GF on board is a real bonus! =)
As you can see, things still donít line up. More work to doÖ..
After looking around, I seen where I needed to make room and proceeded to remove the remaining material on the motor can. Once this was complete I moved to the tranny case and carefully removed some plastic. After many trial fits I managed to get it under control and get my proper gear mesh.
Shortly after the gear mesh was properly set, nature graced us with a sunny day so I was able to test out my new setup. We headed down to Point Defiance Park which is loaded with trails, beaches and some fairly steep hills to test on. The new gearing made a great improvement in low speed control and wheel torque. Now that Iím getting the gearing and weight placement headed in the right direction, I now find myself irritated with the overwhelming amount of slop in the transmission. And once again, I put my thinking skills to the test and came up with this.
I came up with a way to effectively reduce the slop in the tranny without effecting reliability or ease of shifting. First I started off by buying another set of gears for the tranny.
I decided that I would take the solid chunks from the new gears and add them to the spaces of the old gears. This would require me to whittle down the gears into little plugs that would fit in the spaces and not fall out.
After 4 hours later I came up with thisÖ Take notice where the plug is located, itís on the side of the gear that is driven for REVERSE. Itís important that the plugs are placed here so they simply take up the extra space without having to be constantly beaten while the truck is under forward power.
The backside of the gear plug
Here is the gear completed with all the plugs finished and glued in place with thick CA glue. Thankfully, the first plug took the longest and the others where much easier to make. I think I had another 3 hours in the remaining 3 plugs pairs and gluing.
A few important notes to consider when if anyone was to do this
1. TAKE YOUR TIME AND MAKE SMALL CUTS!!!!!
2. Focus on making a plug for one hole, meaning you need to keep the plug facing the same direction, the same side of the gear, and the same hole. I say this because it makes it better because the holes will be slightly different and itís important the plugs fit tight.
3. Speaking of fitment, pay attention to the shape of your plug so that it has the minimum amount of gaps between the walls of the gears. This will make sure the stress is kept even as possible and minimize the chance the pieces will fall out. If you look closely, you will see that my pieces look as if they are meant to fit in the holes. This also makes sure you donít distort the gear shape and cause binding.
4. When you achieve the proper sized plug, they should still be tight enough that you need to lightly hammer them in place. Now here is the interesting part, the plastic seems to grip the plugs once they are in place as I wanted to remove one and it refused to come out no matter how hard I pushed or hammered. I was afraid if I hit it any harder I would break the gear! (If you take notice to the plug in the 12 oíclock position in the above photo you will see it has an indentation from where I was trying to push/hammer out the plug)
5. Once you have all the gear plugs made, use a super thick CA glue to settle into the gaps between the plugs and make a nice strong block.
I decided to not add a 3rd set of plugs for fear that engaging 1st gear would become difficult. I may try to add another plug later, but for now this is how Iím going to use it.
Iím sure someone is going to be curious as to how much slop was removed from the tranny so Iíll do my best to answer. When I pull the transmission out again Iíll make sure I correct my findings if they are wrong.
*This mod was only done to the low (1st) gear as Iím not concerned with the slop in high gear.*
Stock: roughly Ĺ turn of slop at the output shaft on tranny. The amount of slop seen at the input shaft (slipper clutch) was approx. 2 Ĺ turns (this may be wrong as I canít accurately remember).
Modified: roughly ľ turn of slop at the output shaft on tranny. Slop on input side is now down to about 1 ľ turns. No problems with shifting noted (I stop and shift, no rolling shifts)
This should translate to more control in areas that require a bit of finesse and since the plugs are not on the forward driving side of the gear they should do quite well.
A few days after I finished the transmission I got a few more goodies.
Hot Racing pinion gears 8t, 9t, 10t. The caveat to using these pinions is you will have to space out the motor or cut your motor shaft since the smallest you can use without cutting is an 11t.
72t spur gear Traxxas P/N# 4472R and Kershaw Designs Belleville Spring
As you can see by looking at where the bearing would be located in the spur, there is a clearance issue with the spur gear and the chassis. This is a minor issue and with a little dremel love you can get all the clearance needed without cutting through the chassis (it gets thin, but doesnít punch all the way through). Another area of concern is the leg of the transmission case where the screw goes through. The tip needs to be shaved down to gain proper clearance. Dan @ Kershaw Designs said he has 3mm shims to properly space the spur gear, but I opted to go without.
Like I said, it doesnít take much to get the gear to clear the chassis and transmission. Here is the finished product mated to the 11t pinion.
Now if you want to run the original motor mount for either original motor placement or as a cover (which is what I did) you will have to make a small cut to the edge of the motor mount so it doesnít hit the spur gear. The plastic cover also fits the larger spur gear with no problems or mods needed so you can have your gears properly protected.
T-Bone Racing A-arm skids. I ordered the chassis skid too, but it didnít show up and Iím waiting for an answer as to why. I bought these because I was noticing how often the truck was getting hung up on sticks and the occasional rock.
TBR A-arm skids installed
Okay, now that I got my mojo going on the transmission gears I decided to tackle the 4 wheel steering mod. I followed the Quadiak write up on what parts to use for the mechanical parts to include the Dual Steering Computer from PunkRC. Here are the parts I used plus some bling bling stuff.
Hitec 7980 servo 611 oz/in of torque!!! Iíll have another one of these coming for the front once I get the 4ws figured out.
Punk RC Dual Steering Computer
New set of body posts were needed since I cut the originals down as far as I could to get the VW body to sit the way I wanted. It appears that my truck already had the heavy duty servo saver spring so this was a waste of money. Oh well, Iíll save it and gift it to my brother for his Revo.
Castle Creations BEC. Yeah, it was priced higher than what I couldíve paid via mail order, but I like to support my LHS when I can.
Items not shown are:
Another stock steering assembly for full size Summit (I didnít like the aluminum one and you need some of the parts from the from the stocker)
Stock mini Revo steering linkage for parts (hardware and bushings)
Traxxas turnbuckles I had laying in my tool box.
Now getting on to the assembly of the 4ws, Iím not going to get into great detail as the thread I followed was very informative and I donít want to take credit from him. I will show the areas that I deviated from and give reasons why.
If you look closely, you will notice that my servo output shaft is in line with the pivot of the servo saver. In Quadiakís thread he mounted the servo off to the side and used different sized rods to make up for the misalignment. I wonít say this is wrong, but I donít believe its best when it comes to maintaining proper linkage geometry. In my setup Iím able to keep my control rods same length and the load stays even.
For those scratching their head over what I used for a mounting material, its .030 lexan. I know it looks flimsy, but itís very stout 2 piece assembly boxed in when itís incorporated into the body mount. If it doesnít hold up Iíll make another out of 22ga. sheetmetal. Looking to the left you see stainless safety wire wrapping around the body post. I didnít see the need to make more holes in the plastic which would make it weaker so I just made sure the servo stayed seated in its pocket. The left side of this mount is very tight and can hold the servo without any hardware. Again, if things donít work out, Iíll be going back to the drawing board, lol.
Here is the assembled backside. Look at the circle in the picture below and you will see there is a spacer between the blue servo saver and the modified plastic part. Iíll be adding another of these spacers (made from scrap plastic) once I get the longer screws I ordered. The reason I did this is for alignment and steering throw issues. The closer I was able to get the tie rods to their original position, the less bumpsteer Iíd have to deal with. The other reason has to do with steering throw. The longer the arm is the larger the arc will be. This is important because a larger arc is closer to being a straight line. This translates to more linear steering throw and less tie rod wind up from trying to turn a really short steering arm too far.
This brings me up to where Iím at now. I just ordered some more goodies from eBay which I hope will be here next week.
Hitec servo programmer
RX8 esc w/ novak 6.5 turn sensored brushless (bought used)
I also have two sensored brushless motors coming from HK, a 2100kv and 2300kv Turn1gy Tr*ckstars.
If next paycheck permits, Iíll be getting another Hitec 7980 servo for steering.
I decided to ditch my MMM setup and go sensored so I can get that low speed control for better crawling.
So the 4ws setup is all finished and.... it doesn't work!! For some reason the Dual Steering Computer I bought is not working as intended. I've followed the youtube video that explains how to set it up and for some reason I can't get the steering trim to zero out. The lights keep blinking (supposed to be steady light when the transmitter steering trim is centered)regardless of what I do and the steering is on or off meaning its centered-full left or full right. There is no proportional steering like it should be. I'm having other issues too, but I believe they're all due to the center trim issue. I've contacted Robin at PunkRC and he's a bit difficult to contact. One of the disadvantages of being a one man operation is customer service isn't always the best. The radio I'm using a the Traxxas TQ3 on the 3rd channel (gear shift). I verified the problem by putting the computer on my GF's truck and the exact same thing is happening. I'm gonna try it with my M11 radio and see if it happens again. That way I can say I've tried 3 good radios and 2 different brands. Very annoying to say the least.
Ok, so after opening this thread I was surprised to learn two things:
1. Apparently certain brands are forbidden from being mentioned
2. Its very important that you don't move or alter the sizing of the pics you've already posted or they will be removed from the thread.
So for anyone that was possibly interested in the pics deleted, here they are:
My Summit and Revo 3.3
home made mud guards
72t spur gear before clearancing
72t spur gear after clearancing
I don't remember if there were others, but these are most of them.
Mr Zed, welcome to the board. You've introduced yourself in a respectable manner and made some valuable contributions. Well done sir!
I can't believe you MANGLED that can though.....lol! She looked so purdy, now she's a hairless dog....lol!
The Pro-line tires are $$$ but they really do work well. You get what you pay for. I do go generic/cheap sometimes as well.
Things that showed up in the mail
2100kv and 2350kv sensored motors and a Hitec servo programmer/tester
redcat racing 40 series beadlock wheels and tires for my GF's truck $42 shipped for the set of 4
Ok, a few things have happened since my last post. Went out and romped around for about 4hrs at the local state park to see how the transmission mods worked out. I'm happy to say the gear mod worked great with no failures. The only thing I noticed was it was a slight bit harder to shift into 2nd if you have resistance on the transmission such as sitting on a hill. This was easily dealt with by rocking the truck forward or reverse. Although I didn't get to test the 4ws, I did find out just how strong the rear servo mount is. My girlfriend wanted to take the trucks down a really steep path that ended up with my truck tumbling and flipping down the hill for almost 200ft stopping just shy of going into the water at the bottom. The rear steering servo and mount were fine, but one of my stock steering servos wasn't so lucky. The good news is the gear assembly's are cheap and I bought 2 sets the last time I broke the servo gears.
Even though I fixed the stock 2075 servo I decided it was time to upgrade to a Hitec 7980 servo to match the one I bought for the rear steering.
After some experimenting I'm happy to say the 4ws is now working, I had my mode and servo inputs backwards (smacking forehead). So now I have normal steering in 2nd gear and 4ws in 1st gear. This is how I wanted it since my primary interest for the 4ws was to give me better turning when the diffs were locked and I was tackling an obstacle.
I had a little bit of time so I decided to actually take the Summit out in the woods and see how things worked with my new additions. First off, I have to say I love the TBR A-arm skid plates. I almost never get stuck now and the truck seems to slide over obstacles much easier. Speaking of TBR, I contacted them to see what was up with my chassis skid and they somehow completely forgot to ship it. Hopefully it will be here within the next week. One thing that shocked me is how fast the batteries died with the Hitec servo being used. That thing is gobbles power and really killed my run time. I may just have to upgrade to larger batteries in the future.
The crash I mentioned previously also took its toll on my cheapo Intejunk 23mm beadlock wheels. The flange once again broke so I decided to throw in the towel and purchased a set of Axial BL's. Hopefully these wheels will be a bit more hardy than the ones I currently own. I do have to say I really like the tires that came with the cheapo wheels. They're soft and grip pretty good once I star cut the foams.
On my way home from running errands I stopped in my LHS and saw a set of Proline 23mm beadlock wheels on the clearance rack for $26/pair. In my excitement I thought I'd snag a set of sand paddle tires to go with my new rims. So off I go with my newly acquired items, get into my car, tear open the packages and then realized I bought the wrong sized tires The tires are for 3.2 wheels and the beadlocks are 3.8. Thankfully the store owner was pretty understanding and I got a store credit for my purchase. I guess for the time being I'll be setting the PL's aside for another project.
Now I'm off to tackle another project, I'm going to start working on my custom motorplate that will allow me to flip the transmission around and place the motor directly over the front shocks for even greater weight transfer. Pics to come shortly...
This is what I got so far, the transmission will flip with little convincing to the chassis. The only thing I'll have to do is trim the chassis in about 5 places and move the servos.
These tabs are keyed to the chassis and either the tranny or the chassis needs to be clearanced to make it fit.
The next 4 pics show the areas that need to be addressed to make room for the spur gear.
Ok, I know it looks like everything is in the way, but its actually not too bad. The shift servo will be relocated to the other side in the front diff lock servo position. I've got a Hitec micro servo on order that is programmable so I can reverse the direction. This is important because the servo will shift in the wrong direction causing my 4ws to engage in 2nd gear instead of 1st.
I may not have to move the front diff servo depending on how close the right-angle arm mounted on the shock support comes to the spur gear. If there is a problem, I'm gonna make a small plate that moves the right-angle arm forward to avoid the spur gear. We'll see....
The rear diff lock servo will be left in the same position, but the control rod will be remade to clear the spur gear.
The motorplate is another issue I have to tackle, its an easy project, but I'm gonna have to make it using hand tools since all my fancy tools are in storage. The only thing I really need to get a hold of is a countersink bit. I'll just have to rent time at the local auto shop so I can get access to a vise and some power tools. Here are a few pics of what I have in mind.
The first motorplate will be made out of a few pieces of lexan sandwiched together so I can get an idea of how far I need to clock the motor so it will clear the front suspension parts. I don't plan to actually use the lexan pieces, its for mock up purposes before I make the actual part from aluminum.
Last edited by Mr_Zed_ZX20; 03-27-2013 at 11:59 PM.
Does the body clear the motor and trany?
l_l O l_____l O l
Nice build! I got a question though, how are the Redcat tires?
Edit: Also, did they fit the stock hex?
Last edited by snowslider; 03-28-2013 at 04:26 AM.
This is a signature.
Man I am luvin this guys ingenuity. Another original cobbler on the summit boards. I really enjoy seeing people who design and create works of art instead of simply throwing around a lot of money and buying the most recent/ popular items. Welcome and great build.
MAN, Use Common Sense.
Outside? THERE IS NO BOX !
Oh, can someone tell me how to put multiple quotes in one response?
Off topic, but when I finish moving into my new house I'll be getting my other RC projects. I built a savage with complete Jammin X2 suspension, center diff, and separate front and rear brakes several years ago. I'll be posting its rebuild on a Savage forum, but will post a link to it for anyone interested.
Here is a sneak peek
Last edited by Mr_Zed_ZX20; 03-28-2013 at 09:40 AM. Reason: needz moor wurdz
how to multiple quotes -
1) quote - cut and paste
at least that is how I do it.
if you go with a a more channel radio (flysky customized 8 ch - see jimmie neutron) the steering computer would not be needed. There is also a company in Canada which sells its own version of a steering computer.
MAN, Use Common Sense.
Outside? THERE IS NO BOX !
Click the button to the right of the "Reply With Quote" text for each of the posts you'd like to quote EXCEPT for the last post you'd like to quote. (You'll see the "+" next to the dialog bubble change to a check mark.) For the last post you want to quote, be it the second or thousandth, click on the "Reply With Quote" text/button. All the quoted posts will now appear in your post.
Last edited by ksb51rl; 03-28-2013 at 05:33 PM.
Alt-248 on the number pad = į
Thank youI was also wondering that,just thought it was some magic you wizards were pulling off ! lol
Sent using lipo power
Mountains cant stop me
they have tried
Here's where I'm at on the tranny flip, so far things are working pretty well with nothing more than a bit of dremeling here and a bit there. I have to say I found myself laughing nonstop when I started to see just how close everything was fitting together. I mean, its so close its bordering on Mission Impossible tolerances will literally a millimeter of clearance in some areas.
Here is a pic of what I had to do to get the spur gear to clear the chassis and shock mount. I used a felt tipped marker to cover the area expected to need clearancing. After putting the transmission in place and spinning the spur I was able to see where I needed to remove material. A little bit at a time and things slowly came together.
As I mentioned earlier, things were very tight in terms of squeezing every last speck of clearance. Here I had to shave off the little rings around the bolts holding on the spur gear. I'm going to assume the original hardware was a large head and these rings worked to keep them from coming loose. As you can see I also had to change to the button head screw to avoid hitting the shock support.
In these pics you can get an idea of where the motor will sit when I finish the motorplate. I can think of a more effective way to increase the weight bias over the front wheels without adding weight to the truck or completely reinventing the chassis.
Here the transmission is in and bolted down. I did my victory dance and took a deep breath as now I could relax knowing that I didn't just butcher my truck on a hunch.
I thought moving relocating the shift servo was going to a simple matter, but nooooo, it turned out to be another little obstacle. If you look closely, you'll see the wires exit at different locations which caused problems with fitting the new servo into its respective mount. So I flipped the mount 180 degrees and did a little bit of dremel work to get the new servo to fit as it was a bit taller than the traxxas unit. The other issue was the mounting tab as it was meant to use much smaller screws than what was originally used by traxxas. I simply opened up the hole to accept the larger screw and then had to put the OEM screw into my cordless drill and take a file to the head in order to mill the diameter down to a size that would not hit the side of the new servo.
Here is where I'm stopping for the night. The servos are relocated and now I need to fabricate/rebend the control rods. The circle around the screw shows where I had the most trouble with gaining clearance. I mentioned that I had to shave the little rings off of the gear, well I had to even shave the flat portion where the gear angled down and the screw mounting surface was flat because it was hitting the shock support. The other circle shows just how close the control rod is to the spur gear. Fortunately, this is as close as the rod/ linkage will get to the spur. In the diff locked position the rod moves forward away gaining more room.
Looking back on my work, I realized I could've avoided having to cut as deeply into the chassis if I was to use a spacer between the chassis and the transmission. It wouldn't make all the problems go away, but it would preserve as much material as possible where it matters most, behind the shock support. The amount of stress in that area is pretty high and if you want an idea of how much just take your shock and compress it in your hand, then multiply that times 2. The relief cut for the spur gear isn't too terrible as the heavy webbing underneath is preserved so the chassis still has its strength. The chassis isn't showing any signs of flexing in that area so it should be ok. Add the bottom drive shaft cover and the chassis will most likely be plenty strong for what I plan to use it for. Another note to mention is that maintenance just became a pain in the butt when it comes to changing the spur gear, removing the front bulkhead, or removing the right shock. Its not likely I'll need to be pulling these items anytime soon, but its something to keep in mind for anyone that may want to do this for their own trucks.
On a side note, the mailman brought a few more goodies! Most of this stuff is for my Revo or my 1/8 truggy, but still cool no less. Items pictured:
Axial BL wheels
Duratrax 1/2 offset wheels 2pr
Duratrax Posse C2 tires
Tekno 17mm hub conversion kits (2)
Tekno electra clutch traction drive kit
Hitec 5065mg digital micro servo
Castle link quick connects (2)
Revo black spings
For anyone looking for a good cheap set of performance wheels and tires I have to recommend these. I'm running the same set on my 1/8 truggy and similar set on my 1/8 buggy and I have nothing but good things to say about them. I feel like I'm becoming the unofficial wheel and tire guy, lol.
I have to say I was bit shocked to see how wide the Axial BL's are. They will definitely be getting narrowed once my tires from RC4WD arrive. I'll show how I go about that when the time comes.
The mailman also brought me a used RX8 esc and novak 6.5 turn sensored motor I bought off of Fleabay.
Sorry for the long pause between posts, but its been a busy month getting moved into my new house. I finally got a moment to whip out some tools and make the motor mount as I planned. Here are a few pics of what I accomplished.
I've also managed to get a few more goodies to add to my rig, but they will have to wait until I have more time to mess with them.
8200 mAh SPC batteries, spektrum receiver for another project, extra chassis for the chassis extension mod, and a TBR chassis skid.
x-lock 40 series tires
and my second Hitec 7980 servo
Although not shown, I had to rebend the rear diff lock actuator rod to go under the spur gear. This proved to be a bit of a pain in the rear to do, but is now operational. The shift rod was refabbed from a fly bar off of a T-Rex helicopter. The diameter was slightly smaller than the original wire and wouldn't thread properly into the ball socket. I used a thick CA glue to attach the two pieces and now the rod functions as intended. Now that all the mechanical issues have been resolved all I need to do is wire up the new ESC, motor and plug it all in. Hopefully by my next entry the truck will be up and running with footage.
How is your build coming along?