With the stock tires ( anaconda's) the drivetrain seems to be fine, but ad a more sticky tire on back and the gears start ripping out one at a time. Until I finally found Hot Racing Jato hardend steel 2 speed gear set #SJT1000X on Ebay. I would also recommend installing A hardend steel clutchbell and spur gear, if you don't want to be replacing them every other time you drive your Jato. Also, the driveshafts need to be steel. The slipper clutch pads are crap. I took A piece of old radiator hose, cut it to the shape of the pressure plate and drilled little holes where the pins are to keep it from slipping on the wrong side. The only problem was it was twice as thick as the stock pads, so I cut it in half and made two at once. My Jato's driveline is now bullet proof! NO PROBEMS!!!
Something somewhere will have to give tho right? or does the make the drivetrain completely indestructable with high hp engine mods?
I never had any problems with my tranny or spur gears. What tires are you using? I have Jaco foams and proline road rages.
Jato 3.3, Revo .28 JL Max, Nitro Stampede 3.3
I'm not sure what your first question is. But to your second one, YES! The gear set I listed is all hardend steel from 1st gear to the diff. and the diff. has alum. side plates
I'm running mostly in the dirt with Proline Trenchers. I ripped 4 spur gears and 6 1st gears in a week before I got the steel ones
Last edited by cooleocool; 03-19-2013 at 11:59 AM. Reason: merge
Metal supr gear, such a bad idea. Hmmm... Replace a $3 spur gear or $20+ transmission & not to mention you have to take apart the whole back end to replace it. All you did was make your trans. the weakest part of the drive-terrain instead of the spur gear. Set your gear mesh properly & you won't be going through spurs soo much. MANY have tried the metal hardened cb & spur gears & learned that there will eventually be a price to pay for doing it.
Last edited by redck1979; 03-18-2013 at 06:01 PM.
"Growing OLD is mandatory, Growing UP is optional"
It must be nice to know everything. But, your wrong. The 1st gear was the first to go (3 times) before A spur gear went. And I don't see how an entirely steel geared transmission is A weak link. I went all steel all at once.
Last edited by Mark Ball; 03-18-2013 at 06:16 PM.
OK all metal gears...Hmmm there goes the trans haves blown apart too still costs more than a supr & have to take apart the whole rear-end. Or wait, let me guess, you added more weight to it by getting the aluminum trans halves too.
"Growing OLD is mandatory, Growing UP is optional"
Like I said to start with NO PROBLEMS!!! Two months at least two hours A day.
First off, attitude like that will not get you far around here. Plenty of other forums for that but this is a warning to stop it before it goes any further. Feel free to read up on the rules that you agreed to when you signed up.
There is nothing wrong with going steel inside the tranny or to the output shafts but when there is a shock to the drive train there needs to be something that will give and that is the spur gear. Going to a steel spur means you need to go to a hardened clutch bell or that spur will tear it up. A properly set mesh and slipper will provide a spur gear plenty of gallons of life. If you are blowing through them then there is another issue that needs to be addressed.
It's your truck, do with what you want. There are plenty of others that run stock all the way through on their big block Revos and have no issues.
The Super Derecho
Well it might help to understand the way I drive. I don't jump anything, I only drive in my yard and its smooth. Every time I tear up A gear or twist A driveshaft I was just accelerating on smooth dirt. I've been afraid of anything else since everything seemed so week. One thing I've noticed from watching videos on the internet, is for sum reason mine seems to be abit stronger than most. The only thing that might be different is I noticed that the carb wasn't opening all the way out of the box so I made were it did. And I apologize if I was sounding argumentative, I've become a little sensitive to know it all's from all the nice people in my local hobby world, especially around the Heli park, and hobby stores. Again I apologize and will refrain from doing it in the future. Sorry about the other thread I thought that forum was talking to the guys at Traxxas not everyone else.
Last edited by Mark Ball; 03-18-2013 at 07:10 PM.
Mine is stock except for the a arms and drive shafts and I do this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmwFP4nxZSw with it every weekend and usually once or twice a week. The only parts that I have broke are minor, the only half way major one was the top plate and it was only due to my center mount battery bouncing around
I accidentally ordered the anodized aluminum gears from hot racing instead of the steal ones how many passes should i expect to get out of them 1 or 2? lol and what I meant by a weak link was that when the drive train is put under heavy stress is there anywhere in your drive train that will give? or do you not have to worry about that as each and every part can hold its own?
So far so good. Though I am chewing up my tires faster.
i have the steel gears and aluminum gear halves. There is a weak point where the stock turnbuckle meets the tranny halves. I don't see any issues witht he aluminum...Not sure why other folks have an issue with it. I did however leave my spur gear stock (plastic) to leave room for something to give if needed. The steel gears really wind her up and the aluminum gear halves look sick on there....Love it so far.
Update, everything still going strong. I've been really pushing this car hard. Where I mostly drive now is very rough and I go very fast. The only problems I've had have been wheel bearings, but since I started using the bearings that are for the clutch bell instead of the normal sealed ones I haven't had any problems with them.
I agree 150%. All steel driveline takes out all the weak links. Traxxas makes excellent products, the best in fact . Some people don't have problems with plastic and like it better (racers), while others see it as replacing the weak links once with steel is the way to go vs replacing cheap plastic parts many many times is aggravating. This is my 3rd nitro and first one to ever make it past a half gal without stripping any of the stock plastic gears. I have the slayer and love it in stock form. Wouldn't change a thing about it. But there are many nitro rc's that have all steel drivelines from the factory for a reason.
I'll never accept that there has to be A weak point or A slipping clutch in A driveline. In every 1:1 vehicle I ever had if I couldn't get rid of the weak points I got rid of the vehicle, and if the clutch slipped I got one that wouldn't. If I have A gear strip or A driveshaft twist every time I drive it, I don't want it. Every one says these little things are different, but not to me. It's A motorized vehicle and I'm going to drive it fast and hard. I have the money to make this happen if they make the parts. If taking out all of the weak points in the driveline tears up the motor, than mine wouldn't have lasted for 10 gallons after the upgrade. As far as the little bit of weight it ads slowing it down, well not mine. It made me faster because now I don't have to baby it to keep from breaking something. From the video's I've seen from people who say they have no problems with plastic, they don't drive their cars anything like me. If I took it that easy I wouldn't have had any problems either. Now the only problems I have are shock shafts. They need to make hardened steel shafts, then all of my Jato worries would be over.
The weak point is the slip in the slipper clutch, go all steel no prob just have a properly adjusted slipper. With a driveline as strong as this set up, if all is set up correct, you can even have a locked down slipper and all will still be fine, I know this from locking down my HS slipper on a ZR30 Savage XL and doing aggressive speed passes. Bearings always seem to be the first to go tho lol
However, If you jump the truck on a grippy surface something will go, on dirt lading on power will toss dirt, but on pavement it will be very hard on everything a adjusted slipper can save you many headaches.
Well I guess I found my last week point, my plastic wheels. Today I thought some thing broke. But after checking everything to see what was or was not spinning. I found just the wheels weren't. Thought the nut was probably loose, no. Took the wheels off and one hub was totally rounded out. So, I guess it's time for some alum rear wheels. Unless I can find some steel ones. And about my slipper clutch, I didn't think it was slipping any. But after reading A bunch of post where A lot of people said to tighten all the way down and back off 1/8-1/2 turn. I've never tightened mine that much, but it doesn't seem like it's slipping when I'm driving it. Took it off to see if it had any signs off wear and yes apparently it has been slipping some. But even with A forgiving clutch plastic gears couldn't stand up to me and my 3.3. I do use plastic spurs with my lowest ratio's and they do fine, but when I go to A higher gear ratio I have to go back to steel. It puts to much torque on the plastic ones and bye bye.
what kind and size of ball bearings are you using?
It has all of the original bearings everywhere except the outer bearing on the axel carrier. I would crush 2 of those A week. Until one day I put one of the 5x11x4 sealed bearings on the outside of the clutchbell, thinking, well keep the dirt out. That didn't last long. When I was buying more I noticed they seemed A little more, well built (and more expensive). So I thought I'd try some on the outer axel carrier. It's been A little over A month and they're still in there, I guess they are better enough.