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Thread: My SRT

  1. #1
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    Cool My SRT

    Today I went to the hobby store and got the a-arms and diff cover I wanted!
    The nitro rustler front and rear a-arms ...RPM brand




    I cruised it around on the dirt road out front and it steers really great with the new bell cranks, pivot bushings and ball bearings in them. The new traxxas servo is also stronger than my old one.

    But... I'm having real issues with traction.
    Im going to try these basher tires ...they were laying around:

    My reedy sonic is a 13t triple and the gearing is 21/87
    I want to change the gearing to a 21/80 so I can go faster to keep up when my brother comes to visit with his firestorm flux.
    What would you suggest for gear ratio considering my combination?

  2. #2
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    I say go brushless if he has a flux
    Rc...my wallet hates it...but my brain loves it

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gecko5678 View Post
    I say go brushless if he has a flux
    Ya but I can get a 76 tooth for $5 and be going fast still

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    Still even with that gearing a brush motor does not generate the torque to turn that gearing easily like a brushless. You a put a high load the motor just bogs down. Also brush motors are less efficient at generating power vs brushless. If he has the flux with a 5700kv you'll need a way more powerful brush motor then that old sonic.
    Simply the best. The beautiful Traxxas SRT and TCP

  5. #5
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    http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xxf...axxas-srt_auto

    This morning I took the SRT out first thing for a cruse in the road.
    Everything was going really good until Jay the little italian greyhound started chasing and barking at the car.
    Then Blaze got interested in the game and wanted to chase too.
    I had them going for almost 5 min until blaze stepped out with his big ol foot and ruined the show. Ohh well. Blaze is still a great dog. I took them in and I gave them their breakfast after this. What happened is the yolk from the diff grub screws came loose. I locktight them now.
    Last edited by Bmktw2; 02-11-2013 at 01:53 PM.

  6. #6
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    http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xxf...axxas-srt_auto

    My car is over steering everywhere when i hit the gas. Its hard to keep it on the road.
    Also when I hit a little rock, it throws the car off track and its hard to keep it going straight.
    Do I need to adjust my bellcranks so it steers slower? What can I do to help keep my car going in a straight line?
    Last edited by Bmktw2; 02-11-2013 at 03:05 PM.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Did you have any issues with the axle hitting the cross brace on the outer part of the RPM arms? I had problems with mine. Stock drive shafts, carriers, etc. Ended up having to remove a good amount of material from the a-arm, but they ended up working great.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4369347

  8. #8
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    My rear a-arms are different than yours, harry697...
    I used RPM80532 rear for nitro rustler
    I think I had to use the left on the right and right on the left in order to have a mounting point for my shock.
    I think what that has done is taken my toe-in camber and made it a toe-out camber....
    not sure what to think of it...
    Have a look at this video I made:
    http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xxg...-up-close_auto

  9. #9
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    In regard to my thought of the a-arms being mounted on opposite sides...
    The "RPM" logo casting on the rear a-arm is facing front on both a-arms.
    The RPM logo casting on the front a-arms faces front as well.
    And the shocks fit great.
    But...
    The toe on the rear wheels with the new RPM arms is: Toe out.
    Thats opposite from what I remember the stocks(Toe in)
    So i'm thinking...
    Are the a-amrs are installed on the wrong sides?

  10. #10
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    I figured it out...
    TRA2555 is the SRT a-arm part number.
    I used RPM80532 rear for nitro rustler but the nitro rustler has the rear shock on the back of the control arm... Looks like I had it backwards. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-A-Arm-options

    So I drilled 3/32" holes into the front of the a-arm like how the stock ones are and installed the shock with my a-arms on the correct sides.
    I cant wait to test it out with the rear toe set. I hope it helps straighten out my car on wide open

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    Yea rear toe-out will cause terrible handling.
    Simply the best. The beautiful Traxxas SRT and TCP

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx2.0 View Post
    Yea rear toe-out will cause terrible handling.
    +1


    You need to use RPM Slash rear arms to have proper geometry. Back before the Slash, guys were doing exactly what you did by drilling holes in the front of the arms in order to use them on the SRT.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    +1


    You need to use RPM Slash rear arms to have proper geometry. Back before the Slash, guys were doing exactly what you did by drilling holes in the front of the arms in order to use them on the SRT.
    These?
    http://rpmrcproducts.com/products/tr...ash.htm#RrArms

  14. #14
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    My brother is going to be here this weekend with his e firestorm flux
    I ordered a new gear Traxxas 4676 76T 48P

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    Just curious how many turns is your sonic?
    Simply the best. The beautiful Traxxas SRT and TCP

  16. #16
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    i use the rpm slash f/r 2wd arms on my srt with the 1 blocks and slash 4x4 rpm hub carriers .an amalgamation of hinge pins but mostly the STRC set.

    if i can find any fault its that the plastic is too soft and flexible and that can make handling interesting.

    id like to use aluminum rear hubs and from steering/camber blocks.
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  17. #17
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    Emaxx2.0;5420179 Just curious how many turns is your sonic?

    13T


    SRTracer121: Got any pictures? That sounds like a nice setup

  18. #18
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    no real good ones. im planning on taking some this week or next, gotta start cleaning up the whole fleet soon, want to take a family photo.
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  19. #19
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    I went to the the hobby store and got a reacktor brushless system. Its really nice and smooth running.
    The SRT was Hauling some butt. SRT was running sooo perfect. I was loving it so much. So nice and powerful with plenty of control




    ...then I crashed into my brothers RC car....

    It broke the (caster block?) on the passenger side.
    So I was searching for the replacemnt parts and came across the article on: http://traxxas.com/pitpass/hopup/new...ler%C2%AE-XL-5 on the hop up parts for the rustler... I really want to put the:

    #2660-Long Traxxas aluminum Big Bore shocks (front)
    #2662-XXL Traxxas aluminum Big Bore shocks (rear)
    #3632A Traxxas blue-anodized 6061 aluminum caster blocks
    #3636A Traxxas blue-anodized 6061 aluminum steering blocks
    #3652A Traxxas blue-anodized 6061 aluminum hub carriers (rear)
    #3741A Traxxas blue-anodized 7075-T6 aluminum turnbuckle camber links
    #3139A Traxxas blue-anodized 7075-T6 aluminum turnbuckle steering rods

    Will these parts fit the SRT?

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    The electric Rustler uses a different caster/hub setup that the SRT. Unfortunately, Traxxas doesn't make aluminum casters for the N.Rustler/SRT.

    On the bright side, RD Racing does make them. I used them on my SRT's because the caster block seemed to be the only thing that would break on the truck. And they broke quite frequently. Put the RD casters on and don't recall ever having a single DNF after that.

    http://www.rdracingproducts.com/Zen/...lver-p-36.html

    they also have them in blue:

    http://www.rdracingproducts.com/Zen/...blue-p-22.html



    Why do you want new big bores if you already have them on the truck?



    Oh, another thing. The aluminum turnbuckle set for the Rustler isn't correct either. I did use them on an SRT before, but they took a bit of filing on both ends of the link to get them to work. Even after I got them to fit, there wasn't very much room for making adjustments. You will be better off with a set of Lunsfords for the Nitro Rustler. Direct fit.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Lunsford...item43aa181db0


    You can also get a turnbuckle and hinge pin kit for the whole truck:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lunsford-Tra...item53e5cf600d

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    Oh, another thing. The aluminum turnbuckle set for the Rustler isn't correct either. I did use them on an SRT before, but they took a bit of filing on both ends of the link to get them to work. Even after I got them to fit, there wasn't very much room for making adjustments. You will be better off with a set of Lunsfords for the Nitro Rustler. Direct fit.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Lunsford...item43aa181db0


    You can also get a turnbuckle and hinge pin kit for the whole truck:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lunsford-Tra...item53e5cf600d
    Thanks for the info Harry, you're the man
    I have a question though because this second link is the lunsfords vxl rustler turnbuckles and you said I should get the nitro rustler ones...
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lunsford-Tra...item53e5cf600d

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bmktw2 View Post
    Thanks for the info Harry, you're the man
    I have a question though because this second link is the lunsfords vxl rustler turnbuckles and you said I should get the nitro rustler ones...
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lunsford-Tra...item53e5cf600d

    You're right, the second one is no good. I searched for nitro rustler and that's what came up. Never even read the description.


    I think I used the Slash hinge pin kit for my SRT. There aren't any king pins in the kit, but it doesn't really matter because the Slash king pins won't work for the SRT anyway. Luckily when I bought my RD casters, they came with titanium king pins. They stopped including them soon after for whatever reason.

    I'm also not 100% sure on the front outer hinge pins because the Slash arms have a slightly smaller hole through them than the SRT. But I don't remember that being an issue.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lunsford-***...item53f4a75a2b

  23. #23
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    Thanks Harry. I'm gonna get those and try them out.
    Also I'm getting into LiPo for the first time and was wondering if you could give me advice on what I should choose as far as battery and charger goes.

  24. #24
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    i run strc inner arm hinge pins up front and the stocks on the outside of the arm.

    in back is strc hinge pins on inside and outside

    the only other part (like harry ive broken a few caster blocks) is the rear hub carrier. went to rpm slash 4x4, identical the the n-rusty and srt.


    spc fan boy suggests spc lipos
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRTracer121 View Post
    i run strc inner arm hinge pins up front and the stocks on the outside of the arm.

    in back is strc hinge pins on inside and outside

    the only other part (like harry ive broken a few caster blocks) is the rear hub carrier. went to rpm slash 4x4, identical the the n-rusty and srt.


    spc fan boy suggests spc lipos

    That brings up a question I've had for a while. 1952 is the part number for the SRT, N.Rustler, and Slash 4x4 hub carriers. So what's the deal with 1952x? I figured the x is for aluminum, which is the case with a lot of Traxxas aluminum upgrades. But I recently found out that the aluminum 1952x carriers have 1.5 degree toe built-in. Seemed weird to me, but am now interested in trying them out with "0" degree arm mounts. It would end up with 4.5 toe-in though. Not sure how well that would work out.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-1952...item4d093ea9f5

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    I know RD is releasing a titanium hinge pin set for the nitro rustler. The only upgrade I can recommend (same as the others) is the aluminium caster block and rear hub carrier. I plan on racing on a tight indoor blue groove track plan so 30degree caster in front will help. I'm going to try modding the bellcrank I want more outer steering angel. Ill post Picts. Now for the big bores run limiters as the e clip on the top of the shock shaft likes to hit the shock bladder and cut it. For wheels nitro rustler Rpms should do the trick.
    Last edited by Emaxx2.0; 02-17-2013 at 04:12 PM.
    Simply the best. The beautiful Traxxas SRT and TCP

  27. #27
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    Do the VXL Rustler lipo batteries fit the SRT?
    Last edited by Bmktw2; 02-18-2013 at 03:49 PM.

  28. #28
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    L135mm
    H25mm
    W45mm

  29. #29
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    I used my dial calipers and measured the SRT battery tray
    L140mm
    W47mm
    H30mm

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    The problem I ran into with my hard case lipos was that they're almost impossible to install and remove from the SRT with the stock 6-cell upper deck setup. Even though the dimensions are correct, the problem is the angle that the battery slides in at. The upper deck is too high and it causes the battery to bind on the rear bulkhead brace. In stock form I would literally have to build the truck around the battery and then disassemble the truck to get it back out. Same thing with my TRX-3.

    The battery will slide in and out easily if you cut the top chassis plate to accept 7-cell flat packs. Problem with that it, it's actually too much space and looks a bit odd that way.

    On my most recent SRT, I made my own lipo-friendly top plate. The opening is somewhere in between the 6-cell and 7-cell spacing. My 2S SPC hard case packs would slide in and out just right.



    The front battery box section is attached to the standard 7-cell locations. I just left a little more material behind them so that the battery would fit a little tighter.

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    I just use Velcro and a battery foam spacer. Now on the TCP I have to remove the rear battery box. But lipos fit easier then they do in the Rustler. Btw Harry can you take very detail pictures of your SRT and I guess mods.
    Simply the best. The beautiful Traxxas SRT and TCP

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    I sold that particular truck on this forum in 2010 or 2011, but I'll see what I have for pics. There's a build thread here:

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...highlight=2010

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    Darn ok. Do you have any SRT left?
    Simply the best. The beautiful Traxxas SRT and TCP

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Still have the NIB kit and enough parts to build another 90% new truck.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post

    What material are you using to make your own decks?
    Is that black upper deck home made?
    I dont want to cut my upper deck.
    I would like to make one so I dont have to chop-up my original upper deck...

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    He's using G10 material which can be found on tower.
    Simply the best. The beautiful Traxxas SRT and TCP

  37. #37
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    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXA271&P=ML

    i cut the T out of my g10 upper deck and regret nothing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  38. #38
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    I love you guys

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRTracer121 View Post
    i use the rpm slash f/r 2wd arms on my srt with the 1 blocks and slash 4x4 rpm hub carriers .an amalgamation of hinge pins but mostly the STRC set.

    id like to use aluminum rear hubs and from steering/camber blocks.
    The aluminum steering block for the SRT would be listed under which truck? slash 2wd?

  40. #40
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    have u guys actually broke one of the stock hinge pins?
    or is it just for light weight?

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