So, I have been running with a 2wd Stampede for the last couple of years and it's been great, but I have always been a fan of the Rustler, also. The Traxxas Forums have probably been the best 'mod' any hobbyist could need or want. I'd like to think that over the amount of time I've spent in the Stampede forum helping others while receiving help at the same time - it's all been time well spent - I know I learned a lot.
With that being said, I'm ready for a new experience and I'm looking forward to running the Rustler/Bandit platform for a decent amount of time - long enough to build/fund both Stampede and Rustler rollers - to eventually having full RTR's of each.
I'm not here to clog up the board with too much hoopla, don't want to start any drama with other members, and definitely do not want to come across like some 'know it all.' Instead, I'm here to try and soak up some of the knowledge floating around while getting some first hand knowledge myself. Back to square one for this guy.
...and that's about it for now 'all. My pede is in pieces - again & I just received some packages via USPS to get this project started. I'll be sure to get a few pics up here and there. Shot out to the P2DE crew, Traxxas, all my old heads, and for today we give a big ups to Toadz RC and Lumidave - both of ebay fame.
This weekend is going to be awesome, hopefully, with more to come
Well, enough with the chit chat...and waiting for the weekend
and BAMB, well, the mock up
It looks like the SPC wires need a hint of clearancing, the holes for the Savox dont quite line up and I still need some miscelaneous pieces to get it all together.
So far, Im really impressed how the 3S fits without issue. The whole steering thing is tight in there, but i'll get it figured out sooner or later.
ok looks good I love watching build threads like these evolve and upgrade
Welcome over here... The guys here have been very helpful to us...This is one of the few hobbies of many that I have were the people are so generous with their knowledge. It has saved me a ton of time and better yet, a ton of money. Look forward to seeing your rusty come to life.
Sponsored by Sugar Mamma Racing
Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I just downloaded the exploded views and can't wait til 5pm. TGIF
Well, I've gotten about as far as I can go for this weekend. Here's a decent photo to show the progress.
Wheels, tires, a lid and a fresh traxxas bumper and I should be good to go. I'm really looking forward to the first drive - even more so, the first open practice day at the track.
and one more pic for the road...
Since this is a conversion project, you might notice some of the parts are already upgraded, but at the sametime, some of the conversion parts are stock.
If anyone has suggestions on upgrading the servo saver and steering bell crank, I'm all ears.
Future upgrades will include axles, shock towers and hexes with a distant move to a 2S combo, nitro front conversion and an aftermarket chassis.
I really Want a rustler too..
My dads Is awsome
Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL
Is that a MM ?
kdvanb, I'm really looking forward to seeing how well this truck runs. I'm mostly anxious to go back to the track. With my Stampede needing a host of parts like a lid, fresh protrac arms all the way around and another set of track ready wheels and tires, it seemed like the ideal time to do the conversion. All in all, between the upper and lower chassis, the steering bell crank assembly, and a bag of screws all from a 'donor' vxl - including some shipping and a few other odds and ends, the conversion hasn't been too costly.
rcguy, that's an MMP aka the mamba max pro. You could say it's the little brother of the mamba monster max. While I have no interest in putting a 6S combo in this truck, the idea of using a 4S pack with the 2400kv motor & the 2800kv motor sounds like something I can get into. Just the thought of that setup sounds fast enough for me.
Nice build! That's a lot of motor for a lil rusty but it'll be a blast to drive. My rusty is 3s only and its a handful with just the velinion in it. As for you asking for a good steering set up, ditch the servo saver and replace it with an aluminum horn and get the hot racing bellcranks with the intergrated saver. I don't have the money to put this set up on my rusty but that's what I run on my slash and its awesome. On the rustler I run a kimbough hd saver and strc bellcranks and id trade that setup for the one I mentioned above in a heartbeat.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I927 using Tapatalk 2
Back for another weekend of torture. I received some goodies thru the week and took some time to do work last nite.
Since this is my 'first' Rustler, I decided to go with the Traxxas Prographix VXL lid. TRA3715
and since racing was the initial inspiration, some Traxxas 2.2 lite wheels, all 'front' offset. TRA1972
Mounting the wheels without tires was a nice luxury. The 1972's arent too spendy and I needed to confirm the ANZA casters would clear and they do. So, I'm going forward with ordering some 2.2 tires. I also was able to set camber with the suspension loaded.
Getting so close, ugh.
Thanks for the words of encouragement kd. This conversion has been really exciting. Looking around the board has me considering some g locs, bad. It's one of the few tires sets my lhs has as an option for me and the idea of having a 'street' setup sounds like fun.
& 1911kevin, thanks for the recommend on teh hot racing bell crank. and yeah, I saw that it is a little pricey, but Ill take your word on it and look to purchase that mod in the near future. I appreciate it.
Later guys. I hope have this thing running today.
When you do fire it up..
Take a video??
Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL
Lol, would if I could.
Picked up some g locs this morning. Got them mounted. Backed the fluorescent orange with white. Took a quick bodyless cruise. The pack was sitting around 3.9v per cell and Im thinking, this thing is slow geared 18/54 with the 2800. So I decide to tweak it some. I figured I would install my racers edge aluminum servo horn. Go 22/50 on the gearing. Get a full charge. Tweak the mmp, 100% power, 25% punch control. Get it all buttoned up, remove the outer plastic from the lid and put the stickers on it.
Go outside and bamb, not even 2 minutes of doing speed runs, I crash and one of the arms for the bell crank snaps.
Who's makes a tougher upper chassis part?
I used the eXtreme racing upper chassis part which is carbon fiber. Much stronger and fits well, although it's shaped a little oddly.
My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...
Thanks OG, I'm guessing some aluminum posts are used to mount the bell crank?
So I'll spare you guys my frustrations. One of the posts broke off the upper chassis, so I'm working on a home cooked fix till I upgrade or snap the other post. That part looked a little shady to me, but dang working on the front end is such a chore.
Kd, I've got some footage but plan on getting it uploaded later.
Oh, and if anyone from jconcepts is listening, I need g locks in your blue compound, not yellow. Thanks
So, after a pretty frustrating weekend, I'll say that I am having a lot of fun with the Rustler. The g locs were fine and actually provided a decent amount of grip. After breaking one of the bell crank posts, crackingthe bell crank itself, applying road rash to all 4 wheels, painting some curbs orange and sliding into a couple of parked cars, I decided to slow the truck down beofre turning it into a rag doll quick, lol.
I nstalled the 2400, applied moderate gearing (18/50) and tweaked the mmp. All I can say is wow! 100% power, 30% drag brake, 20% punch control and 20 degrees of timing advance. Dremelled the upper chassis to clear my servo horn and linkage, ran a screw thru the entire chassis to fix the broken post and applied a bunch of zip ties to the bell crank in an effort to keep it working. Anybody who runs a castle combo that isn't on the brink of over heating should try increasing the timing on their motor. The only reason I say this is because I now have zero cogging. Before, the truck would inch forward smoothly but I could hear it cogging, now it's smooth with no audible cogging. It's worth a try. The 30% drag brake is a god send in a way. Before the truck would finish a speed run by spinning out of control into a 360. Now even if I try to 360, the best it can do it fish tail slightly. Its very slot car ish which I like, but it's hard on tires tho.
So that's my weekend update. Proline suburbs are expected to be delivered today and will get glued soon. A hot racing aluminum/graphite combo bell crank was ordered. I guess I'll have to check the 40 dollar version at a later time and a better version of the bell crank post fix is on the way. In the meantime, here's a silly vid from Saturday. Pics from today's post and more mods to come.
Just a little update with some photos.
Installed the SRT shock tower, along with ANZA hexes and front hinge pin brace...
Dremel work to clear my servo horn and maybe a glimmer of the HR aluminum/graphite combo bellcrank...
A fresh lipo from my lhs. My SPC was acting real weird and it turned out a weld inside the pack between a couple of cells came undone. almost there, lol
ESC was moved and wires were kept tidy...
and got the stickies installed. Open Practice session tomorrow is at East Coast Hobbies about an hour from me. I'm hoping to make the trek, but if not, it's definitely going down next week.
So I was able to go to the track Saturday morning and it was a blast. The suburbs performed great and I actually feel like I am getting the hang of going around a track. The long can 550's are way too much motor for these kinds of tracks, but I was still able to get around okay with limited throttle.
I was able to run as many as 3 consecutive laps that were clean and managed to get some big air on the back stretch, clearing the table top off the first jump and coasting over the last set of doubles - also broke a rear shock tower and had issues with an ANZA rear hex. So Im back to plastic rear hexes and rpm rear carriers and shock tower. The Lites cracked in a few spots, also, but a little CA has that all better now. I'm hoping to get more track time soon, but even more so, i'm ready to make my Rustler a dedicated racer. (huge breath, lol).
With that being said, i'm scraping a lot of what's on it now for different parts, namely, the protrac, the stock gearbox and internals, the brushless combo, possibly the shocks and the typical front caster/carrier setup & eventually the chassis or its going to get all hacked up. The Rustler has been a lot of fun on the street and in the yard to a degree, but I still havent figured out the suspension. All in time I guess. Most of the scrap parts will make their way back on a Stampede and more upgrades to come soon. How soon? I have no clue, lol. Im on the fence about starting the Pede revamp today and ordering mega parts tomorrow, or chilling and running as is for a few more track session. I need a 'staycation' to make this all happen immediately, but this thing called work keeps getting in the way
Track Layout clip for you guys who don't have the luxury of being an hour away from this kind of fun
and some breakage. Funny story..so this guy and his son show up. Real nice people, with 4wd 10th scale buggies. XXX-4? and a B44.1? super quick around the track. and we're kicking it, real casual like while my pack is charging for round 2. Nobody was there really for open session besides us and they just wanted to track bash together, im cool with that. These 2 had all kinds of rc's and the boy was real knowledgable too. He even had a rustler before, switched to a t4 which was in the truck outside. Pops had a spare slash with him too. So we go out for a session all 3 and we're all practicing, fairly novice. The kid was actually pretty good, but pops had the nicer rc. So a couple of us flip over, I go out and turn them over and hustle back up to the stands. They dont move til I get back. So I throw it out there, lol, 'let me see if I can give you guys a run for your money' Pops with this sort of serious tone all of a sudden says 'I highly doubt that' and we start going at it on the track. Racing is weird, being out front or by yourself is king, unless you want to play dirty I guess. Anyways, it was funny how we were all casual and now we finally started 'racing' a bit. If they were out front, there was no catching them, if I was out front, I wasnt getting passed either tho. There's something about being in close quarters on the track that makes it real dicey. Anyways, all three of us are making the turn for the back stretch and I decide to go real big on the first back stretch jump and sky it, crash and thats when the tower broke. Oh well. The guys actually liked Stadium Trucks, but admitted that they just aren't popular. The guy even complimented the Rustler how it looked getting around the track and some of my driving where I had the steering going back and forth the whole time. He said it reminded him of a sprint car We exchanged compliments and I had to dip to put brakes on my car. Oh well, Im sure I'll see those two again. Good people, new friends.
Another Saturday at the Track and I learned a little bit more about racing while getting more practice time under my belt. Even tho Im tweaking the truck while my pack charges, I cant help but feel like the 3S 2400 combo is a killer - in a bad way. Too much weight, too much torque...the track was really wet, also, so my suburbs really weren't providing the kind of grip I was experiening under dry conditions because my treads were getting packed full of clay. The track did eventually start to dry by the day's end and it helped some. Earlier in the day tho...man, I had so much clay stuck to the top of the lid, I had to scrape it off after the first run down. 3 packs later, I came home looking like this.
Scored some ANZA towers at the local HobbyTownUSA & got them installed last nite.
And that about wraps up my RC weekend, and just about wraps up my Rustler chassis/suspension mods at the moment. As much as I'd like to drop the coin on a chassis and start working over my shock tuning with different springs and oils, the most important thing on my list of priorities are to switch to a 2S combo. Simply looking over SPC's 5000mah packs and CC's websites, I have a 10.9 oz motor with approx an .825 lb battery packs. 2S drops the pack to .625 lb and a 1406 castle motor weighs 5.9 oz. That's almost half a pound. I believe the 1410 size weighs in around 8 oz, but still, it's weight savings. Basically, I'm trying to rid myself from all of this torque and excessive weight over the rear of the chassis.
So that's that. Chassis down the road - I'd love to hear about the best options (I'm leaning towards the rcm if it's even still available). 2S combo in the near future. Maybe even an entry level Futaba radio. The 2400 needed the lightest throttle inputs possible and there were plenty of times where I wanted the slightest bit of forward motion and my system gave me nothing. I don't know if that was my radio, or just the woes of running sensorless, but from the little bit of tracktime that I have under my belt, I'm consistently seeing that I cannot consistenly make my way out of corners or fly jumps. All I want to do is have the control to barely clear any set of doubles and be able to roll out of a tight corner without spinning out, but between portly weight, excessive torque, a suspension that needs fine tuning and a system/combo that keeps my trigger finger between 0 and what seems like not even half a pull at any point...needless to say, I'm not running an optimal setup, lol. It was definitely a bit depressing seeing even VXL combos hitting speeds heading into corners that I couldn't produce because the whole time I'm track running, it's an exercise in throttle control the entire time.
Take a look for yourself Nothing too spectacular here, but it's not a bad baseline for the truck as it sits today. and hear for yourself, the 2400 isn't barking too loud on this day BTW, that's with 60% forward power & 60% punch control. Thanks to the big bro for lending a hand at filming & my son for helping with the rollovers. My nephew's slash was charging at the moment, but I will be sure to get some footage of the two (and hopefully more rc's) going at it in the weeks to come. Later.
do yourself a favor an switch to 720p
Last edited by Oaks; 03-31-2013 at 02:51 PM.
Xtreme racing makes a really nice rustler chassis. I use their chassis on my slash and it handles very well and is really durable. As far as a motor and esc goes, that 2400 is just to much for a track. A sensored 10.5 turn would probably be the ticket for your truck and track. I'm sure there are more cost effective systems out there but I run tekin and its awesome. I love the adjustability it has at the push of a button.
Keep up the good work and stick with it, a 2s set up will absolutely make your track time more enjoyable.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I927 using Tapatalk 2
Just wanted to do a quick update.
First off, thanks Kevin for the words of encouragement. I'm defintely going with the XR chassis. Although I'm worried about the top plate breaking in front of the rear shocktower, I'm still going to go for it.
So the Rustler has been out of commission for a few weeks. I took time off to start an ebay selling campaign to fund this project which was pretty successful. My premounted G Locs are gone, my 3S is gone and both of my long can 550 motors are gone. A set of 17mm hex adapters went and Im working on a buyer for the monster wheels and tires.
My LRP motor is here along with an LRP sensor wire. Soldering should take place this weekend. While this motor seems to be half the size and weight of the 2400, I'm hoping the 7.5t motor is a screamer.
Also, a SMC 5600 mah, 2S lipo rated at 70C is on the way, also. Tracking says delivery tomorrow, so who knows. I might have this bad boy running tomorrow, but...
A trip to the lhs is in order. Looking to score the spring kits for these losi shocks (which are a little bit more progressive from what I have read) as well as some 48P gearing combos and bullet connectors. Any suggesstions for gearing? The motor is rated at 4600kV so maybe 19/86?
looks good. that gearing sounds like it will work. just check your temps. the anze towers look nice. im actually thinkin about pickin those up in the future. let is know how well they work.
I spent a solid couple of hours trying every single camber link configuration and made the rod length changes along with hole mounting changes all with the shocks and wheels off the car. I finally found a setup that allows for plenty of down travel that's also really smooth. I am hoping that it performs well on the track.
I took the time to run a half a pack or so in front of the house with the new motor. The sensored setup is super smooth, and just the same for me like those who have reported in the past - you really appreciate this kind of combo on the 'take off'. Even running around inside of the house is neat since you can drive so slowly. Ripping up and down the street at full blast and making u turns slowly to spare the treads, I saw 80* on the pack, 90* on the MMP and 120* on the motor after a solid 15 minutes of runtime. I think I can afford to gear up a little more, but won't really need to for what i'm doing with it. Maybe ill add a few teeth once the outdoor track opens.
And that's about it for the update. The SMC 2S lipo is pretty sweet. Its rated at 70C and 5600mah. The MMP is working very well so far - the real test comes tomorrow during open practice. A fresh case for the trans was installed, but its going to get scrapped. Why is it that I can hold the diff in my hand, and both outputs turn freely and in opposite directions, but once the case gets closed together, its like the diff becomes a spool? I don't get that.
Future mods...DOT4 to the body. I tried painting this thing when it was entirely too cold and The body is still salvageable. The Extreme Racing chassis in G10 is here. I plan on doing a separate thread on that with pictures of the install since there doesn't seem to be much info about it floating on the boards. It looks great tho and feels pretty light. The holes drilled in the chassis where the bulkhead screws go show how this thing is a bunch of layers on top of layers...pretty cool stuff. I will be sure to do a weight comparison when the time comes. Lastly, get the losi shocks tuned and maybe another set of treads and I'll be good to go. And maybe one more lid, lol.
Nice vids. On day 1 the donuts in the garage reminds me of monster truck bashes.
Day 3 had some nice laps on it. I wish I could drive like that. How is the new motor working for you?
Sent from my Super-Kindle
My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...
Thanks for checking the vids, OG. The motor was great today. I had a lot more usabl power than before and just having the 2S combo made for an overall better experience. I need to work on loosening up my trigger finger tho. Practice laps get a bit mundane, but having a few more rc's on the track gets the competitive juices flowing. And the new motor really begs for it. On the street with 19/86 gearing, it will wheelie if I'm close to a dead stop and I can bunny hop the front end a bit with the trigger, but its pretty tame. Quick, super smooth and a decent top end for where its geared. Definitely faster than my nephews slash on 2S with a VXL combo. Almost as fast as the VXL on 3S. I was really happy with it. Seeing that I was as hot as 130 running outside...it was about 70 today, I'm going to skip gearing up and put some subcultures on it.
I installed the new chassis after the track sesh. I wanted to do a thread for it, but its really unecessary. It's a pretty basic upgrade really and the kit comes with great instructions. I found a few flaws in the kit where I was missing the countersinking on one hole and I wasn't too crazy about the hole spacement on the rpm servo posts and the hold downs for the battery pack are horrible. I'm considering ditching the cups altogether and using Velcro as a battery pack fastener. The chassis does a nice job of moving the pack further back, but it moves it so far back that it takes away from the steering. Id like to be able to adjust that. Truth be told, the chassis itself doesn't photograph well, lol, but I'll get a few pics from the install posted.
I finally modded my front body mount and trimmed the front bumber of the lid. Because of the way the mount works with the Anza tower, I needed to trim the posts for a leveling effect.
I'm still bummed about the fresh gear case. I'm going to install an rpm case before I go back to the track in hopes that the diff runs true and the motor runs at an appropriate temp.
Off to Wally World to find some dot4.
What differential and tranny case are you using? I don't understand why the diff gets tight either, other than too many spacers or too few when you re-assembled the case. Something has to be squeezing it.
Also, I can't view the pics in your first post.
My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...
Stock case with 2yr old internals. But I figured it out and this is sad, but the shorty pin that goes in between the two diff outputs has been missing since the first time I ever repacked the diff. I remember seeing it lay there, but since I didn't know where it went, I laid it to the side lol. Still, I had a chance to put together an rpm gear box earlier with fresh internals for the pede and I will definitely be putting one on the rusty.
I went thru my photobucket account so yeah, there's a whole lot of broken links of mine floating around out there.
and I take back what I said about being almost as fast as the VXL on 3S. It's not that fast, but I located a 23 tooth pinion to gear it up with.
But yeah, another fun weekend and I'll have to get some vid from the outdoor track.
Sensored power is pretty sweet... no cogging.
Glad you figured out the tranny problem.
My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...
As for the tranny problem, now i've got to fix it, lol. Looking back over your HR diff thread, I may just have to pick one up, along with all new internals and whatnot. I'm noticing with my little bit of street driving that the rear wheel opposite the motor gets a lot more wheelspin than the other. A move to get the battery more rearwards, tires with more traction, and a proper diff setup should get me pointed in the right direction.
Nice Rustler Oaks! Have enjoyed the nice pics and vids in this thread and allowing us to go on the journey with you! I really like the look of that chassis.
Right now, my biggest challenge is finding a Rustler sized rear tire that provides a ridiculous amount of grip on the track and I am open to any suggestions. Later.
rc track action this weekend. I beat the rustler up pretty good. My body is about destroyed where the rear body mount is, but the chassis took it like a champ. I also was able to score some 2.2 Lites and Gladiators for the rear. I will say that I love thes gladiators! I immdeiately was able to start putting down more power with those tires - indoor and out. This lhs had them on clearance for $12 a pop so I decided to get 2 pairs.
These shocks need a heavier weight, so I plan to get that done in time for next week's bash and I'd like to get another set of lites to try some ribs up front and possibly a 4 pole castle motor
Here's a little vid from the outside track
That looks like a fun track! Nice driving man! That think was bookin' down the backstretch
I like the gladiators too.
Anybody ever hear from mepster at all? I hope that guy is all right.
Well, it's been quite the experience trying to get this truck around an indoor, medium grip, clay track. money has definitely been spent. Numerous other threads have been posted and a lot of parts have been tried, kept, replaced and sold...and i'm still not 100% happy with it, lol. That's the catch with track running - without factoring in my own driving-limitations, I can't help but feel that the truck can be setup a little bit better.
I will say that I am pretty happy with all of my parts. I still have a 'mod list,' too. It's pretty short tho at this point in time. The truck really needs to be tuned and I believe that I am getting close. Proper shock oil weights are no longer a mystery to me, my spring rates are very suitable for what I've been doing, and my front end geometry is setup just about as good as it's going to get. I am still learning about the effects from tuning corner exits with the rear camber links and I have my shock mounting positions where I want them - i think
Below are a few of the threads I have posted along the way.
My gearbox build...
The losi wheel and tire experiment...
The story behind my start in racing...
and there were a few others along the way, also. I wanted to post those 3 since they definitely add to this entirety of this time line.
Moving forward with this thread, I want to get it updated with recent photos of the truck. I, also, want to get my son's rustler added to this thread since he is my number 1 track buddy and having 2 rustlers with very similar mods going to the track on the same days has been double the fun. We can try different things, trade controllers, take what we like from one and change what we don't like from the other, and make adjustments accordingly.
Shout out to my son, who gets to be a beast on XBL while patiently waiting for his dad to come out of the garage from working on these trucks to make some dinner, lol, and who's also a very good rc driver - when he wants to be
Shout out to the homie MooseSlash, running his rustler on the west coast with much success
Shout out to the Jang for his contributions with this dated platform and for inspiring a few gluttons looking for something different than the status quo
Shout out to Felix Law who's really doing big things IMO with his ANZA equipped rustler, too. For a stock chassis'd, big bore shocked (with stock big bore springs), ANZA towered, ANZA rear carriered and caster blocked truck - I must say that I am super impressed with his potent setup.
Shout out to all of the naysayers, t4 leghumpers (who don't even own t4's) & rustler fans. Please take peek at Felix Law's rustler in action...I can only hope that my truck runs this well one day. I'll need more power than my lrp motor wants to give, but this guy definitely has set the bar high as far as modern day standards are concerned
and shout out to East Coast Hobbies, the hobby shop that's all about racing and having a good time.
Mod List...for now
traxxas chassis - modded with dremel work and a simple hole saw. This shaved 28 grams
traxxas steel camber and toe links, delrin top gear, aluminum idler, jato axles, front stub axles, bulk head, rod ends & pivot balls, front bumper, shock springs, hardware, 2.4 ghz radio and receiver
losi scte shocks, thankfully, my track allows me to run their shocks on my traxxas truck
proline protrac arms, and tires (ions and holeshots)
de racing 2.2inch wheels
aka tire glue
rpm steering carriers and gearbox
anza front and rear towers, rear carriers, caster blocks, hinge pins and hexes
mip ball diff
avid triad slipper
hot racing bell crank
racers edge aluminum servo horn
Castle mmp esc and external BEC
SMC racing lipos
Xtreme racing chassis (again)
Anza -5 deg caster blocks
Proline bulldog lid
Down the road...
Jconcepts tires (3ds)
And on to a couple of pics...
and we're off to another practice session. It's quite the hike - about an hour each way. More updates soon. More on my son's truck plus pics and dagnabbit, let's try to get some video - no matter how unimpressive it may be lol.
Awsome build Oaks, always great to see your threads, by any chance do you have the Anza link you purchased the parts from. All I find are sites in Australia.
The external bec, how big is that and idealy are there any specific or excellent brands for them or anything will be good.
If I use a capacitor, will that be good enough or it will be just a glitch buster.
Also is it possible to run the servos directly off the powersupply, by rewiring it, wonder what is the effct of doing so, if I can take advantages of getting the full strenght of a servo; or best option is still to run an external bec to avoid burnouts on the ESC.
Last edited by Jezza; 02-22-2014 at 10:58 AM.
Live life to the fullest
Thanks, Jezza. It has been a lot of fun tracking a couple of rustlers and while the mod list is pretty extensive, it's all not entirely necessary.
For the Anza parts, try http://www.anzarc.co/ or hobbytown USA websites.
As for the BEC and glitch buster, the glitch busters work fine for most applications. The BEC is smaller than your pinkie finger and basically does exactly what you described. It has a black and red wire that you attach you your esc wires that plug into the battery. Also, you disconnect one of the wires from the 3 prong plug that goes from the esc to the receiver. You basically are running your servo off the battery pack at that point with the option to turn up the voltage if you ever want to run a high voltage servo. It allows you to make the BEC voltage higher than 6 in the castle link software so it acts like a voltage regulator too so when you run 3S lipo, you don't send 12.6 fully charged volts thru your system and fry everything.
You can catch a glimpse of it on the esc tray. It's the blue thing.
AND WHAT'S A GUY GOTTA DO TO GET TO PAGE 2!!!! lol
So our trip to the track was a success. Ever since my son entered his first race a few weekends ago, he has improved on his driving drastically. What's more impressive is the simplicity of his setup and it shows on the track. As a matter of fact, his truck looks better than mine and it irks me. I can't for the life of me figure out why. Almost everything is the same between our two trucks, but his rustler turns under power a lot better than mine.
We share the same anza shock tower, we use the same camber link and shock mount locations. We have the same servo and both use aftermarket bell cranks. What gives?!?!
Side story, there's a jump on the back stretch of the track and none of the two wheels drives can clear this thing. I heard that if you add anti squat, it adds chassis lift and this could possibly help clear jumps. I had washers under the rear toe block mount on my truck before but removed them to see if it could help me clear the jump.
As both trucks sit, they both have rpm gear cases and there are no washers under either of our toe blocks. I tried making a change to my front shock mounting positions and it didnt help the steering under power problem that I seemed to have today.
Fast forward to the post track session inspections and behold
It seems that my son's gear box has a lot less anti squat from the rpm factory - weird, but look at the position of the rear inner hinge pin button head. Also, i can see the angle of his rear carrier (not pictured). It points forward at the top if viewed from the side. Mine is straight up and down.
Bottom line, and I will confirm this on our next outing, less anti squat than the factory setting helps keep the front end down during on power turning. Having more anti squat really didn't add much more air under the truck during jumps either.
If you are tracking a rustler and you have to make sweeping turns, I'd advise to remove some the anti squat angle set from the factory. Some tracks have the kind of layouts where you point, shoot and turn. Our layout isn't like that so when I go to reassemble these trucks after cleaning them, back go the washers under my toe blocks. Later
Thanks a lot Oaks for the infos,
Yeah judging from the picture they look slightly different from one another.
We are probably going for our first fun, friendly races in july. The main classes are for truggy and revos, how ever we are probably going o have a track for the mt, believe it , we both are going to try our pedes and hopefully get the experiences where you guys are at.
Live life to the fullest
Yeah, after his post truck breakdown, I saw that I had reversed the toe blocks left and right. Seeing how well it turned at the track, I won't be changing them back either lol. I will keep mine as is and try a washer to take away some for the anti squat to see if that helps my situation.
Best of luck at your track outing, Jezza. I'm not too sure about your track scene, but as novice drivers, my son and I would get the pede stuck on the pipes a lot. The shorter wheelbase plus skid plate chassis design seemed to get stuck on there, even with the monster sized tires. It had a lot to do with the reason why we converted to the rustler chassis plus the lower cog.