Shimmed a few weeks ago and at that time put 50k wt oil in both diffs. Given that, I had an LSD action. After my last run, I noticed I lost one of the threaded pins that hold the axle on the diff. Easy fix after the LHS trip. However, that side of the diff seems to still spin freely. If I rotate it by hand it has to really get rotating to move the other wheels. All the others seem better "linked". Does this sound like the front diff is done? I'm unsure and really frustrated as I have never had as many issues with 1/10 Traxxas vehicles. I literally chase my puppy around with this thing...that's it.
not sure jrmbtr, I guess open it up, I know its a pain to get to but open it up and check is about the only advice I can give you, I've had my summit for about a month shimmed it and have had no real issues other then a driveshaft pin break but fixing it with revo ones.
Let's Go Steelers!!!... KCCO
I know that's the logical answer, but wanted some insight before I tear into it. Dreading doing it, too; not fond of disassembling 1/16.
Bring it over here...I'll take it apart for you.LOL.
I love working on them.
Good news is...if it's the diff...a whole new one is only $24. (Traxxas part #7078)
Or you can rebuild it with the #7082 kit for $10
(personally for $14 difference...I'd just buy a new one,lol)
"Dude,I almost had you"
R.I.P Paul Walker
7082 is for the internals... which rarely blow out on these.
7078 does not include a pinion gear... when usually it is the ring and pinion (7079) that need to be replaced.
Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.
I got a parted out rear bulkhead/diff for about $20 when I did the shimming as the clicking is what led me to learn about the issues there. Guess I'll go ahead and do the same for the front, too. Might put a lower wt oil in the front this go around; the turning radius was horrible after I did the 50k.
Last edited by mercenario27; 03-03-2013 at 09:48 AM. Reason: grammar