Is it just me, or does the Mini E-Revo brushless have almost no braking power at all. I've tried the re-calibration of the ESC / Remote trick but I don't see any tire locking rear end popping up braking power - not even close. If I go 30mph it takes a good while to get it stopped. Even crashed a few times b/c of this.
I'm new to the RC hobby world, but after what I've read it seems like I should have better braking than this, even though it's the stock setup.
Any suggestions / ideas on this?
If I "upgraded" the ESC alone that would basically fix this issue then, assuming the upgraded ESC had better braking control.
I'd like to reduce the stress on the RC car operator and get some better brakes so I stop crashing into things- lol
Does the motor also need upgrading if upgrading the ESC or can that Castle SV3 run the stock 380 motor?
Looks like the SV3 is for 1/10 scale use, will that work in 1/16?
Last edited by cooleocool; 02-28-2013 at 07:08 PM. Reason: post merge
Compared to my much stronger neu motor when I installed the stock motor for some 4s runs with the mmp first thing I noticed was the brakes were much weaker
I can say I have never ran a stock esc in my truck. But I am sure a mmp will help a bit over stock and my mmp brake settings were at 30% setup for the neu never tried 100%
just installed an mmp and brakes are 100% better then stock esc. i can actually flip it forward stopping to fast.
What brake setting do you run. % wise?
What brake setting do you run. % wise?
with brakes set at 100% it will flip over, havent had a chance to try any other settings yet
My mm v2 brakes very strong. I would imagine the esc is the weak link. It needs to be able to handle all of the current/heat of braking. It is probably set faily soft so it doesn't add too much heat to the esc.
Last edited by custmemaxx1; 03-01-2013 at 02:28 PM.
I re-binded my remote control to the stock receiver, as per Traxxas suggestions, and also re-calibrated the ESC - 100% forward, 100% backward setting, and I tightened up the slipper clutch some, but braking still is weak. The stock motor and setup is plenty fast, esp. with 3S lipos - so I'd hate to have to buy all new electronics for the car when I just need a little more braking. The stock motor seems plenty powerful - so it would seem it should be capable of more braking than this.
Last edited by cajunlasers; 03-07-2013 at 02:44 AM.
Try set your transmitter to factory default and see what happens.
Watch Out!!! My merv is a little green Hulk.
I did the following steps on the ESC and Transmitter with no increase in braking:
TQ 2.4GHz Binding Instructions
For proper operation, the transmitter and receiver must be electronically
‘bound.’ This has been done for you at the factory. Should you ever
need to re-bind the system or bind to an additional transmitter or
receiver, follow these instructions. Note: the receiver must be connected
to a 4.8-6.0v (nominal) power source for binding and the transmitter and
receiver must be within 5 feet of each other.
1. Press and hold the SET button on the transmitter.
2. Turn on the transmitter and release the SET button. The status LED will
flash red slowly, indicating that the transmitter is in bind mode.
3. Press and hold the LINK button on the receiver.
4. Turn on the speed control by pressing the EZ-Set button, and release
the LINK button.
5. When the LEDs on both the transmitter and the receiver turn solid
green, the system is bound and ready for use. Confirm that the
steering and throttle operate properly before driving your model.
Setup Programming (Calibrating your ESC and transmitter)
Read through all of the following programming steps before you begin.
If you get lost during programming or receive unexpected results,
simply unplug the battery, wait a few seconds, plug the battery back in,
and start over.
1. Disconnect each of the motor wires between the ESC and the motor.
This is a precaution to prevent runaway when the speed control is
turned on before it is programmed.
2. Connect a fully charged battery pack to the ESC.
3. Turn on the transmitter (with the throttle
4. Press and hold the EZ-Set button (A).
The LED will first turn green and then red.
Release the EZ-Set button.
5. When the LED blinks RED ONCE,
pull the throttle trigger to the
full throttle position and hold it
6. When the LED blinks RED TWICE,
push the throttle trigger to the full
reverse and hold it there (C).
7. When the LED starts flashing GREEN, programming
is complete. After the throttle is returned to
neutral, the LED will then shine solid green or red
(depending on the Low-Voltage Detection setting)
indicating the VXL-3m is on and at neutral (D).
Add a servo with a rubber pad the pushes on the ground when you want to stop.
I would call traxxas suport and see if they have anything to say, they might have an answer. If the seem to think that there is something wrong with the ESC they would replace it I would imagine.
Maybe post a video of you truck trying to stop and we can detrmine if it is normal or if you have extra weak stopping power.
ROR (raff out roud!) Servo with a rubber pad? hahaah Flintstones attachment! Good one!
Called Traxxas and that's what they told me to do. I like their customer service, very nice people. Now, I ran the car today, and noticed it stops better on the NiMH packs than the 3S LIPOs. I calibrated the ESC on the NIMH packs, this is likely why right? After tightening the slipper clutch, I did notice some improvement on the braking, I guess I may just be expecting a bit too much. There are guys on here talking about locking up the wheels and doing "stoppies" they have so much braking power.
On NiMH power, after doing all I've done so far I'm basically satisfied with the braking amount. Stops in about 10-15 feet from full speed. Front end dips down pretty good, and I have the suspension high for off road use at the moment. I GPS'd the little guy at 29mph on two 6 cell NiMH packs in parallel and they weren't 100% topped off, not too bad.
With two 3S LIPO packs in parallel on board, even with those not fully charged, the little car did 46mph with the stock pinion gear, mad crazy fast! It will flip over either direction, pop wheelies in rocks etc. Much less braking though, so I'll try to recal that ESC under LIPO power and let you guys know if there is a difference in braking.
I want to thank everyone for all the help so far. I am a forum member in my other hobby (lasers) and I can honestly say this forum so far takes much more kindly to newcomers of the hobby. If you ask basic questions in that certain laser forum first five replies will be bashings from senior members about using the search tool, etc.
(double posted deleted)
Just tighten the slipper clutch up, that's probably the problem
What's a coffee if it aint Irish
You can add all the servos you want to controll everything!!!! The rubber pad is the best one to help your stopping problem! haha
This a nice forum. Due to the family oriented goal it is much more tame them most forums. Most of that is great! Only problem I have had in the past is if the occational bad word slips you get it trouble. Let it happen a few times and you are off the forum.
doesn't look right for sure.. did you buy it new or used and when?
What's a coffee if it aint Irish
The first thing I noticed when I did the mmp swap was better braking and overall speed.
From stop or rolling the punch is a whole other rc
This was with the stock v380 motor.
Factory settings on the mmp
You won't have to worry about temps as much with this esc also
Sidewinder could of been the same but can't give you my 2€ since I didn't use that one
Bought it brand new, very recently within a month.
Yea I think I'll drive it like this for a while, to get more experience with it before I dive into any major upgrades on it, esp. considering I plan on buying more RC cars in the future.
Just for fun, I did these other videos, while trying to drive the car somewhat. The wheelie bar helps a lot - but as you can see in the second video it can still flip at the high setting on the bar. lol
Mine seems light on braking with the stock tires but will do a front flip with the summit tires, lol.