So... I bought a new Slash 4x4 in December. It ran great, but the addiction set in and I started upgrading parts to improve handling. I recently installed the Traxxas LCG Chassis (same as the Ultimate) and the Center Differential. The project is not finished because of a "clicking" sound in the front diff when you push it across the floor. The clicking is there with or without the front 1/3 of the truck installed. I've read numerous threads, searched Google and You Tube. Everyone says the diff is in a bind and I agree. If I loosen the front bumper, the long screw that secures the hinge pins and the two 4x12 screws, it smooths out. I've tried tightening each screw down bit by bit to isolate problem, but with no results. All of the screws have to be fairly loose for the binding to cease. Any thoughts, advice or insight would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.
Welcome to the forums.
Did you shim your differentials? I personally have yet to do this on any of my cars, but most guys here swear by it as a solution to most diff problems:
Make it idiot-proof and along comes a better idiot
Shims....brilliant! I'll give that a try tonight. Thanks!
I checked out that link and some others related to it. I'm not sure if that's my issue. That seems to be a "wear & tear" fix. I only ran 2 batteries through the stock Slash 4x4 and I didn't beat on it very hard. I tore it down to install the new LCG chassis, which is when the binding started to occur. I accidently installed a 4x12 screw where a 4x10 screw goes (center location). Any chance it pushed the plastic up or warped it? I don't mind replacing parts.
Had the same thing happen when I did the lcg conversion on my son's Slash, download'd the Rally manual and I had done the same thing you did, too long of screws. Replace'd them with the correct ones and everything was good to go!!!!
rc10T3, TT Sparrowhawk XXB, Slash 4x4, 1/16 Rally
Rats! Same screws on all 4 machines.
It does totally sound like a screw that's too long. Try removing just one screw at a time to see if you can isolate the issue. It could be one of the bearings too.
when going to shorter screws, 2mm shorter should cure your issue
I watched the RC tech pull his hair out the other day at the hobby store until I said - check the screw length......
......he smiled and said "oops"!
The manuals do have some mistakes from time to time. I bought a used Slash 4x4 and needed nerf bars and screws for them and the part number (TRA 2582) listed on the exploded chassis diagram is for a 30mm screw. The 3x6 BCS description on the diagram made a lot more sense in that location.
If you have a Dremel, just cut 2mm off the current screw.
Otherwise I just buy little traxxas screw sets from eBay chop shops for a few bucks.
Would it be possile that you have inverted the two front diff bearing? they are not the same on each side!
Last edited by boilo56; 02-26-2013 at 04:44 PM. Reason: orthograph
Summit RX8/1550kv-Slash4x4 MM2/2400kv Twin-V Merv.
had the same problem with a slash when i put a rpm bumper on it i put the stock screws back in and it fixed it
it drove me crazy, did the same thing as maker... till i found it...
so check inside your diff housing, see if that screw pushed plastic up.... its not easy to spot.... it doesnt jump out at ya
Great advice all the way around, fellas! I'm going to try all of the above this weekend. Thanks! I picked up some o-rings to take the slop (and noise) out of the drive shaft. I'll update the project as I go.
Great news! No more binding or clicking. l replaced (2) 4x12 counter sunk screws in the front diff with 4x10 screws.
And I replaced the (3) 4x10 counter sunk screws with 4x8 screws from the hardware store. I also filed the little nubbin in the center most screw position inside the diff housing. All is well in the world.
You guys did a great job guiding me!
My Shoulder Hurts!
Slash 4x4 / Rustler VXL
I have a question simular to this topic I am running the lcg and want to return to the regular chassis for some backyard bashing. Are all the screws the same on both?