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  1. #1
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    stripped rear diff again!

    Twice in 2 weeks. I'm unhappy now to say the least. Nevermind the pain of taking it apart, but 10 dollars in parts each time isn't cheap. I know I'm supposed to shim it and I have shims coming but when I put it together last time, it was literally so tight that it wasn't even spinning freely, I don't think any shims would have gone in anyway, it was notchy pretty much all the way around. It ran great though until it started clicking again.

    Maybe I should loosen the slipper?

    maybe the housing is damaged? It didn't seem damaged last time.

    In comparison, the kid likes me to run my truck with him. I was stupid with my brushless LST2 today and flipped it end over end many times, including one time into a tree and nothing broke. I finally broke a shaft shaft when I slammed the front wheel into a street sign post and still thats all that broke, a shock shaft, no a arm. Nothing!!.

  2. #2
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    I'm glad my past experience is with their 1/10 line. Had I started with 1/16, I'd never have owned another TRX product. My 1/16 Summit is at TRX now. I'm debating on keeping it when I get it back.
    / 16

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrmbtr View Post
    I'm glad my past experience is with their 1/10 line. Had I started with 1/16, I'd never have owned another TRX product. My 1/16 Summit is at TRX now. I'm debating on keeping it when I get it back.
    I've owned many rc cars and trucks over the 26 years I've been in this hobby. This isn't horrible but definately is weaker than the rest. I just don't think the diff should be that fragile.

    I actually don't think i've ever destroyed a diff in any car or truck yet. Certainly not in my LST2. Shockshafts, A Arms, but diffs are still solid and i've run that much harder than this little thing.

  4. #4
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    Right, not horrible; but given my past experience with Slashes, Rustlers, Stampedes and Slash 4x4s, I expected better.

    I think I stripped my front diff before sending in to TRX for receiver issues. I do no flips or insane stunts and use 2S...it just plain shouldn't happen. This was after shimming it at the same time I shimmed the rear after replacing that diff.

    The diff issues and leaky shocks are pitiful for a TRX product. I wish I could find the post on here by a TRX rep (either direct post or someone copied an email) that states that there is no diff issue...don't believe all you read (something to that effect).
    EDIT: That info from TRX rep might have been regarding the ESC (which is another thorn).
    / 16

  5. #5
    RC Racer
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    i stripped my diffs in my e revo mini 2 times its a pain but... i liked it so much and it was easy to replace and cheap then 3 servos in a couple hours i sold it lol good luck
    NO U CANT DRIVE MY SUMMIT!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by robl45 View Post

    Maybe I should loosen the slipper?

    boy, I'd say!
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  7. #7
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    eBay is you friend here. You can get a chop shop complete diff, new bulkhead, bearings and all for $17 for rear and $14 for front. Shoot me a PM for link.

  8. #8
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    The ring and pinion is only 9.99 at my local hobby store and thats the only part that breaks. Still at 10 bucks a week, I might as well buy him an mt4 g3.

    Quote Originally Posted by Maxximum Overdive View Post
    eBay is you friend here. You can get a chop shop complete diff, new bulkhead, bearings and all for $17 for rear and $14 for front. Shoot me a PM for link.

  9. #9
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    True, but why not pay a few more buck to have the extra parts? We all can use extra parts!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxximum Overdive View Post
    True, but why not pay a few more buck to have the extra parts? We all can use extra parts!
    If I didn't already have the grave digger parts for his birthday, i'd just buy him a new truck. I don't mind breaking parts, but this is stupid.

    At any rate. I spend again almost 2 hours taking this thing apart, putting it back together, got the shims this time, put 2 shims in, the thing barely wants to roll, I'll probably burn up the batteries, speed controller and motor, but I don't think the diff is going to blow up.

    I think part of the reason these diffs go is its almost impossible to get that piece of plastic on the end to lay completely flat and that messes up the diff rotation. I know its 1/6th scale, but that's just poor quality. a metal piece or a hard piece of plastic instead of a flimsy piece would work much better.

  11. #11
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    question about putting the diff back together. How do you guys make sure the plastic is flat? no matter how I put it together, it doesn't want to go flat, maybe I need to replace the gasket? Maybe there is a trick?

  12. #12
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    What plastic are you talking about being flat? Gasket? Do you mean the two halves of the bulkhead not matching up completely flat?

  13. #13
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    I'm talking about the thin piece of plastic that the ends of the screws go into

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