I'm currently waiting for stock diff casings to arrive, as i dont have any spares laying around, i need those to finalize my original drawings. After that i should be ready to 3D print, and with some luck i have the first aluminum cases next week
Hm, just checked my mailbox, my LHS didnt send the cases today.. i might just dissassemble my revo tomorrow, and just measure those. Also gives me a chance to check my rear diffs and do some standard maintenance, maybe add some shims.
Last week i wanted to show the E-Revo to some family, so i connected the batteries, flipped the switch...
So changed to batteries to other batteries, still nothing..
So, i cut the wires to the switch, and connected the bare wires together, and the monster was back alive again. As with almost every mamba monster, the switch had died. Time to fix it:
New switches, those are sealed as you can see and quite expensive, should last longer
Tinned the wires
Some heatshrink to finish it
And all good again
Also had my custom diff cases 3d printed :
Checking the inner dimensions
Outer dimensions, printed in 2 parts (holes for the screws are missing here, forgot them)
Trying the fitment
The cases only need a little tweaking, i expect to have my first on out of aluminum before the end of the week
Got some sleeving on my ESC and motor wires. Looks great (better in person actually) and protects well . Its tinned copper braided with black nylon. Very strong.
Used different colors of heat shrink for the motor wire so i know which wire goes where.
Also ordered some black normal sleeving for the servo/receiver/telemetry wires.
sometimes it is the small touches that really set your truck apart from others.....
Would you go flip my truck back over??
Rusty - MERV - Pede 4x4-Alias
SPC Lipo Power
Last edited by Jakey; 06-18-2013 at 10:35 AM.
Yep, only the battery connectors probably are "knock-offs", ESC connectors are stock castle. But that's what came with the batteries. And yup, those batteries also are some of the cheaper batteries out there. But they perform fine. In europe you only have a few choices regarding batteries, the cheap batteries, gen's ace or the overpriced batteries. SPC batteries are nice, but shipping is way too high. I wanted to see what i like more 4S, or 6S and didnt want to buy expensive batteries before knowing that i'm going to use 4S or 6S.
My next set of batteries will be gen's ace, now i know that 6S is the way to go for me . Do gen ace's batteries use genuine traxxas connectors?
But please, no more about the connectors .
Last edited by WesleyK; 06-18-2013 at 11:58 AM.
Where do I buy me some of that sexy braiding?
Its a Dutch store, but you should be able to find it in other shops too with the information in the link. I can also ship it too you, if you really can't find a shop that will ship to you.
Oh, when you have it, be sure to insulate everything properly. The braiding is made of tinned copper and nylon, the tinned copper will probably conduct so do not let it touch the bare wires/soldering at the connector that go into the ESC. I used a extra heatshrink underneath the sleeving near the traxxas connectors and the ESC.
Oh, I thought it was plastic of some kind... Now sure I want to risk stuff which conducts electrocity banging around my car when I bash it
Hehe, yep i know what you mean. Some guy at a dutch forum has been using this sleeving too for a while, and its still fine. I will check the conductivity for you, maybe it's coated. And i'm confident that the heatshrink will do fine.
No problem at all! Some discussion is fine!
I made a better picture of the sleeving, this looks more like real life:
Also spoke to my machine shop today about my diff casings, they are going to look what they can do for me, unfortunately these cases require some advanced CNC lathes, with more than 3 axis so i hope it will all work out fine.
Last edited by WesleyK; 06-18-2013 at 05:16 PM.
One of my knuckles wore out after a wheel bearing failed. I also didn't like the pillow balls that needed adjustments every few runs so it was time to upgrade. I followed Mistercrash his thread and bought some RDRacing knuckles. Top stuff! Black anodized 6061 aluminum.
The play in the hubs is now almost completely gone, still some play left in the bearings but those will be upgraded later on. Also looks great with HPP hubs .
These will be slightly modified to fit the LST2 axles when my "hybrid diff cases" are done
Last edited by WesleyK; 07-15-2013 at 01:51 PM.
Why not RPM? After I installed them I had to adjust my pillow balls exactly zero times
I've read quite some posts about problems with the softness of the RPM carriers, about the pillow balls popping out etc. I'm sure the RPM carriers are a good option too, but i like the look of these, and the big outer bearing (RPM does have a big outer bearing too right?) and the ability to lock the pillow balls.
Last edited by WesleyK; 07-15-2013 at 02:56 PM.
My dad decided to try the swimming capabilities of the E-Revo today, here are the results:
A stock E-Revo can't swim...
I will probably order a MM2, which should be somewhat more waterproof, still not going to put it through the test though, and i hope my dad also won't..
Just tested my batteries, those are killed too.
1 measures 7V for a 3S pack, and won't charge at all, completely ruined. The other one reads 12V, but i'm not going to risk using it with a new pack. So i will also need 2 new lipos... And that while those only had like 20 cycles on them, great.
Last edited by WesleyK; 07-23-2013 at 04:58 PM.
Oh pops what have you done? LoL
To SUMMIT up, its my coolest RC.
New batteries and parts :
RC-Monster 21T pinion:
RC-Monster drive cups 6mm:
RC-Monster 1/8 diff shafts:
Mounted on a LST diff:
Do you now grind your diff cases? Or just the bulkheads?
I do both to try to minimize how much I have to grind each.
3D printing?...whoa...how does that work?...and materials used?...i guess i could google..but...i'd like to hear ur experience and what you think of it...and perhaps edumacate me a little???.
the Type of 3D printing he used is an extrusion process.
A common and relatively inexpensive way of 3D printing in plastic is to use a plastic monofilament (ABS and PLA are very common) fed into a heater with a nozzle which can then deposit a ribbon of plastic onto a surface. By printing in thin layers (ribbon diameter) you can print complex 3D objects fairly easily.
The bulk of these plastic extrusion models aren't good for much more than R&D or trinkets. They aren't particularly strong by nature of material used.
I'm almost done rebuilding my E-Revo. The receiver has also been fried by the ESC after being exposed to water so i'm waiting for a new one, but except for the receiver and some traxxas plugs to solder on the MM2 it's done for now:
Took my time to dye my chassis black, will post some more pictures about that later
Also dyed my rubber boots and retainers black
Not to forget about the rockers
And to get rid of some more blue I replaced the blue antenna tube and crimp nut with a black tube and red nut
And of course the MM2, which hopefully means the end of more broken parts caused by water
@Guskirc, got it, will reply asap
Got another batch of 3d printed housings for my diffs, this time they were printed on a professional 3d printer:
Now i need to order some small bearings for the pinion. If these also fit well i'm going to have some made out of metal
The diff cases look great man. Did you figure out what size bearings you need? Maybe I can get them cheaper here
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 4
great work with the CAD and 3d printing. Very impressive. Maybe traxxas should hire you! lol
SRT Hawk2 MT4 TCP
Thanks for all the comments . These casing indeed do drop in without modifications to the bulkhead and do indeed use the losi lst diffs. Still working on them, should receive the pinion bearings today. Will keep you guys posted!
Has anyone seen/tested these products yet?
The motor brace has also been modified to accept the rear chassis brace:
I'm thinking about ordering a set .
Last edited by WesleyK; 08-20-2013 at 04:02 AM.
Woot, my rear diff finally seems to have given up on me . That's about time. I didnt count but i have something like 25 4S runs and 30 6S runs on my stock diffs. I guess it's time to replace them with my losi diffs .
Sweet, holefully lots of pics once they are fitted. How the HPP brace go on?
To SUMMIT up, its my coolest RC.
I just ordered the HPP brace, motor mount and Wheel balancer. The wheel balancer might be a bit of a overkill, but i like good tools and no hassle with balancing my wheels, so i will give it a try .
Should be here by the end of the week. And of course i will take some pictures!
Last edited by WesleyK; 08-26-2013 at 03:59 PM.
HPP stuff came in today :
Motor brace + rear chassis brace
rear chassis brace
Wheel balancer, which really works great. Wheels snap right on, and there is almost no resistance
And again, the quality is top notch . I don't know if the sticky lead weights will hold up, but ill find out soon enough. I will probably use some lead tape if these weights won't work.
Almost done... Took me almost my whole weekend to draw, but if these work, fitting a LST2 diff(or any other diff you like) has never been this easy .
Neat stuff going on here. Was the tire ballancer also HPP?
To SUMMIT up, its my coolest RC.
Yep, also HPP .
But my tires are beyond rescue, the foames and gorilla tape have been damaged too much by the water from the little puddle accident a while ago. So i will probably keep these tires as spares for rough conditions and get another set of badlands, and balance these right after taping and mounting.
Why aftermarket companies don't do this?
3D printers are coming to town, and everybody will make aftermaket companies in the next 20years die!
Catch up or business is going down the drain. Like the web killed some 15years ago.
Now... you are using the losi lst internals and putted on those 3d printed to fit the stock bulkheads?
HOW DO THEY HOLD UP?