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Thread: Air in shocks!!

  1. #1
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    Air in shocks!!

    Ok I've been having this problem for a while with the big bore shocks. Everytime I've filled them and think I've got all the air out I end up with air in the **** things after a few strokes. I've filled them using diff methods I've found on YouTube and what not.

    Saturday I got the pro-line powerstroke shocks. These shocks are ten times easier to bleed the air out since they have bleed holes in the cap. BUT, again I'm having the same problem. At first there's no signs of air in them. Then a few more strokes they get air in them. Or I'll put them on go run he truck around and then check them and they'll have air in them. I even followed pro-lines how to video on filling them.

    So is the normal to get air in the shocks? I wouldn't think so. But this is very frustrating. What could I be doing wrong?

  2. #2
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    Are you getting them completely full before capping. I run big bores and fill shock 3/4 too top and cycle shaft up and down to purge air. DO NOT DO NOT let shock piston exit top of fluid as this will pull air into fluid . I repeat this a few times as i run heavy oil then fill shock body completely too top. Keeping shock verticle I install cap and with the dome of the cap bladder it pushes out a little oi and air then tighten cap. I found out the hard way don't go nuts tightening the cap as it will tear bladder. Never had a problem this way.

  3. #3
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    That's exaclyt how I've done it. I fill them all the way to the top and then let the excess squeeze out the bleed holes. Then I just finger tighten the cap. The first few strokes feel fine then if you keep slowly stroking then (haha) they end up with air. And like I said it's happening on both the big bores and the powerstrokes.

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    And yes I cycle them up and down to let the air out then top off the fluid. Then install cap.

  5. #5
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    OK just so I get on the same page to try and help. PLEASE DON'T take this as an insult only for my info to help. After you put them together and they are sealed how do you know they have air? do you open them back up as far as removing the cap?

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    When you stroke them you can feel the air in them and you can also here it. When there's no air in them at first it's nice smooth quite operation. So after feeling and hearing the air I'll take the cap back off and I can see all the air bubbles in the fluid. Then I have to let them sit like 30 min of so just to let those bubbles surface. And when I'm saying I cycle them I mean I do it slow. Not fast and over zealously. And neither the big bores or powerstrokes show any signs of fluid leakage.

  7. #7
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    Just my 2cents, but when you fill the shocks to there 80% level (or whatever) and then pump the shaft up & down to try get the air out, you should also rotate the shaft a few times to ensure any air trapped under the piston where there are no holes also gets "released". When I do my shocks I find quite a bit of air that "hides" under the piston which will not get "released" by purely an up and down motion.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mugs View Post
    Just my 2cents, but when you fill the shocks to there 80% level (or whatever) and then pump the shaft up & down to try get the air out, you should also rotate the shaft a few times to ensure any air trapped under the piston where there are no holes also gets "released". When I do my shocks I find quite a bit of air that "hides" under the piston which will not get "released" by purely an up and down motion.
    YEAH forgot this step.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mugs View Post
    Just my 2cents, but when you fill the shocks to there 80% level (or whatever) and then pump the shaft up & down to try get the air out, you should also rotate the shaft a few times to ensure any air trapped under the piston where there are no holes also gets "released". When I do my shocks I find quite a bit of air that "hides" under the piston which will not get "released" by purely an up and down motion.
    Yea I do that also.

  10. #10
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    Also top them all the way off and leave them set for 30 minutes before screwing the cap on so any residual air bubbes will migrate to the top. I actually sat and watched and even after all the other steps I would see an air bubble pop up every few seconds. Small air bubbles but a lot of small air bubbles=a lot of air.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
    Also top them all the way off and leave them set for 30 minutes before screwing the cap on so any residual air bubbes will migrate to the top. I actually sat and watched and even after all the other steps I would see an air bubble pop up every few seconds. Small air bubbles but a lot of small air bubbles=a lot of air.
    I find a wine glass works GREAT for this as with the small diameter they have no chance of falling over (yes I am divorced and live alone so no repercussions from shocks stored in a wine glass).

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    I guess I could try letting them sit longer. I usually let them set about 3 min if I had seen any bubbles in there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TXcountry View Post
    I guess I could try letting them sit longer. I usually let them set about 3 min if I had seen any bubbles in there.
    Since my work schedule stinks I let mine sit overnight at the least when i make a fluid change.

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    Do you let them sit topped off with oil? So all you do is screw the cap on when your ready?

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    Quote Originally Posted by TXcountry View Post
    Do you let them sit topped off with oil? So all you do is screw the cap on when your ready?
    I let them sit at about 80% full after cycling and turning then top off and cap.

  16. #16
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    Where do y'all have the shaft when you put the cap on? I have mine about a kunt hair from the top

  17. #17
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    The bottom seems to work for me. I am not good at it and hate messing with it. So far I have only had air issues twice, I have rebuilt shocks on my various trucks many times. I also only let them sit a few minutes. I guess it is all in the plunge and twist technique.

    Justin

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