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Thread: Few Questions

  1. #1
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    Few Questions

    Hey all,
    I've decided to finish off my Rustler that has been sitting for over five years... Back then I was rebuilding it from the ground up and just never got around to finishing it, but it's way over due now.

    - Is there a bellcrank assembly that has an integrated servo saver? Sort of like what the Slash 4x4 has? If not what are you guys running?

    - What are the options for the spur & break setup? It'd be nice to leave the friction pegs behind and see if there are any better options for the break setup.

    - I've been looking a long time for yellow rod ends that aren't the RPM ball ones. Any help on finding some of these to fit the stock sized rods would be awesome.

    I'll be sure to post up some pictures when all is said and done

    Thanks for the help.
    Roses are Red Violets are Blue I'm a Schizophrenic and so am I.

  2. #2
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    As for the slipper, there is an upgraded torque control kit, I think will fit. The down fall is only a 72t gear is available. You could just run 12 pegs on the slipper. I can get many, many, gallons out of 12 pegs. Pretty much don't have to replace unless my nut gets loose.

    Dubro makes some rod ends that may work. Why do you not want the ball ends?

    The brake, I don't know of any upgrades, mine works fine as stock. It locks the wheels up pretty easy. I have had mine for over ten years and the brake is still all stock parts it came with. If it does not work, it may just need a new piece of tubing on the rod, may need to be adjusted, or may need a new pad.

    There are some heavier servo savers out there, I think one is made by AE. You can also upgrade to ball bearings in the bell crank, that helped mine alot.
    Rusty 2.5R,T-max 2.5 & 3.3,Summit VXL Nitro 4-tec

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the insight.
    Do you happen to have any links for the slipper kit? I've mainly just grown tired of the old design and was looking for something new.
    The ball studs are the main reason as I can't secure them on the back side for the most part and the hardware is weaker in most cases.
    The brake is the same "issue" as the slipper. Was wishing there was a new setup that reworked both of them.
    I wanted to get the servo saver off of the servo and into the bell crank setup, but looks like that wont be the case.

    Thanks
    Roses are Red Violets are Blue I'm a Schizophrenic and so am I.

  4. #4
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    I could also use some insight with these as well.

    - I'm looking to run 2.2 RPM Revolver wheels with Proline Gladiator tires. I wanted to run the Traxxas Victory tires on the front, but those seem to only come in 2.8 size. So correct me if I'm wrong, but the RPM wheels do not come in 2.8 size nor the Traxxas tires in 2.2 size, so that idea may be a wash.

    - The Proline steering kit is said to work with the electric Rustler, but looks like it might be doable on the Nitro Rustler with a little work. Has any body tried this?

    - Also what bodies are comparable with the Nitro Rustler? There don't seem to be that many out there anymore. I would assume the Nitro Sport, is the Jato or would any other manufacture car bodies fit?

    Thanks
    Last edited by vroom_skies; 02-20-2013 at 02:02 PM.
    Roses are Red Violets are Blue I'm a Schizophrenic and so am I.

  5. #5
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    I am kind of curious about the torque control kit for the slipper clutch as well. Would really like to know what pros and cons there are.

    Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

  6. #6
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    The parts for the electric might work. I know you can run the electric arms, they are longer, then that converts the front wheels to hex. Which from what I hear, helps with the braking of the castor blocks. I break alot of castor blocks, but only the r/s. If you need any l/s, I have alot of them spare

    I am running some soft compound, small pin tires, like goose bumps on the front. I like them alot, steering seems to be alot better. I am also running the gladiator tires on the back, love them this time of year.

    J concepts has one called the illusuion, that is what I am running right now. Then proline has the crowd pleaser. Had one of those also. Not a lot of choices out there, not sure on the jato bodys, you would have to measure, and then check the specs on the body you want. I would like to find one that would allow me to run two post in the back. I think it would last alot longer.

    I run alot of stock parts. They for the most part just seem to hold up well, and are cheap. I do have carbon fiber shock towers, front and rear. I am not a big fan of the aluminum stuff. Any of the traxxas parts in the grey plastic, seems to be a better plastic. I also have the carbon fiber, link across the front suspension pins. I also use a reciever box from a stampede I think. I epoxied it to the plate the reciever was wire tied to, which allows me to remove it with two screws.
    Rusty 2.5R,T-max 2.5 & 3.3,Summit VXL Nitro 4-tec

  7. #7
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    You can still get the traxxas pro trax, it is a ribbed tire, but multi ribs, it is a 2.2. The other problem with wheels, is the front does not use a hex. If you do the electric conversion on the front, you can run hex wheels on the front. You would have to do it on the back also, and buy longer drive shafts. It will make the truck wider. I know proline makes a desperado wheel in 2.2, but it will have a hex, so will not work on the front.
    Rusty 2.5R,T-max 2.5 & 3.3,Summit VXL Nitro 4-tec

  8. #8
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    That torque control upgrade, is part# 5351x, but after looking, I think it is only for the t-maxx.
    Rusty 2.5R,T-max 2.5 & 3.3,Summit VXL Nitro 4-tec

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