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  1. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by MITCH316 View Post
    I have replaced the stock suspension arm with the Pro-line ProTrac arms for the extra length.

    As luck would have it my arms were the last of the items to arrive...I got tired of waiting so I bought some more from my LHS. Fortunately for me he did not have the arms by themselves but had a kit for sale.

    The part # for the kit is 6082-00 and comes with the following:
    1. Front and Rear ProTrac™ arms 6082-01 (4 pcs)
    2. ProTrac™ Suspension Kit Renegade 2.2”/3.0” Black Wheels 2727-03 (4 pcs)
    3. 50mm x 4mm Rear Camber Links 6062-06 (2 pcs)
    4. 60mm x 4mm Front Camber Links 6082-02 (2 pcs)
    5. 70mm x 4mm Steering Links 6062-07 (2 pcs)
    6. Turnbuckle Wrench 6062-49 (1 pc)


    This was a blessing in disguise as it never occurred to me at all that the camber and steering links would need to be longer for the extra length of the arms. Stock would probably work but with the rod end having less bite thread so to speak.

    From the above list...the bloke at the LHS sold me all the items except for Renegade rims which I did not need.

    Front and Rear Pro-Line ProTrac™ arms 6082-01

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    Hers is a comparison of the stock arms compared with the ProTrac arms I am using.

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    Description:
    ProLine ProTrac Suspension Kit for Traxxas Slash 4x4. #6082-00

    Features:
    Drastically Improves performance over stock
    Beefy and Trick Suspension Arms
    Made in the USA
    Latest style Renegade Black ProTrac™ Wheels Included
    Longer and stronger turnbuckles with included wrench

    Included:
    Front and Rear ProTrac™ arms 6082-01 (4 pcs)
    ProTrac™ Suspension Kit Renegade 2.2”/3.0” Black Wheels 2727-03 (4 pcs)
    50mm x 4mm Rear Camber Links 6062-06 (2 pcs)
    60mm x 4mm Front Camber Links 6082-02 (2 pcs)
    70mm x 4mm Steering Links 6062-07 (2 pcs)
    Turnbuckle Wrench 6062-49 (1 pc)

    NOTE:
    **While the stock axles will work with the ProTrac™ Suspension Kit, some customers may want a heavy duty CVD option for their truck (for Racing or Extreme Bashing purposes).

    The following MIP option has been confirmed to work with the kit:
    MIP #11104 X-Duty CVD Kit (2 Required for Front and Rear)
    MIP #10133 X-Duty Front Axle (2 Required for Front Left and Front Right)

    Additional note:
    If you already own X-Duty CVDs for the Slash®/Stampede® 4x4, you can use MIP #11105 Male bones to convert your drives to the new length. Axles can then be skipped in this case.


    How do they improve performance? thanks!

  2. #162
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by humboldtsmoke View Post
    How do they improve performance? thanks!
    I am using the arms because of the extra length...I am not using the stock rally body, instead I am using the PROTOform PF8 GT body as seen in post #144. I needed to make up the extra length so the wheels sit right under the body. Thanks to thedreadedend and humayray for providing the info on the mod.

    Improving performance...the extra length will improve handling and cornering with the wider wheelbase.
    Rock n Rolla !

  3. #163
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Front foam bumper mod.

    I am upgrading the stock Rally foam bumper to the XO-1 to suit my PROTOform PF8 GT body. I was thinking about making a front diffuser but for now will settle on the foam bumper.

    Here is the stock Rally foam bumper for refernce.
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    I replaced with the XO-1 foam bumper #6437.
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    I started trimming the foam bumper...I used a knife and my dremel. I over trimmed in some areas but took my time, it didn't come out to bad.
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    And here installed in place.
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    Here is a close up of the trimming I have done to the XO-1 foam bumper.
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    The body is a tight fit at the moment...I may look at trimming the bumper down a little further but for now this will do.
    Last edited by MITCH316; 03-24-2013 at 06:38 AM. Reason: Added pic.
    Rock n Rolla !

  4. #164
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Rear body mount mod.

    I did a slight mod to the rear body post...I couldn't get it low enough for my liking so I trimmed the rear body post.

    I cut the length down and removed the cross bracing with my dremel as shown.
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    I flipped the rear body mount upside down to lower the body post as much as practically possible.
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    Rock n Rolla !

  5. #165
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    well done mate, what i like about the xo foam bumper is that it gives you more body support at the corners.
    humay has left the building, peace.

  6. #166
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    well done mate, what i like about the xo foam bumper is that it gives you more body support at the corners.
    Cheers mate...it does push up against the body nicely. My build is slowly falling into place now .
    Rock n Rolla !

  7. #167
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    My build progress so far...its all falling into place now . I am not too happy with the way the body is sitting...the nose looks like it is sitting more to the right hand side by a couple mm. It will stay like this as I have already reamed the holes.


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    Rock n Rolla !

  8. #168
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Axis R/C chassis brace foam support.

    This is read in conjunction with post #142.

    I finally have gotten around to trimming the foam that came with the Axis R/C chassis brace. The foam is there to give added support to the body.

    Here is the foam before being trimmed to size.
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    I cut the foam with a knife...I probably could of cut it 5mm longer for extra support, its just the right length now .
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    And here in place...I have tried to place the foam support near the middle of the chassis brace.
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    Rock n Rolla !

  9. #169
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    I also secured the caster block with a 3 x 3mm grub screw with a drop of blue loctite to hold in place.

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    Mitch, I attempted to use a grub screw on my bearing carriers as you did, due to a mounting screw backing out, and noticed that it limits the movement of the A-Arm. Have you found the same results, or did you notch the screw? It appears that the bearing carrier rotates on the lower mounting screw, and by tightening a grub screw onto it, stops the rotation.

    AB
    I'll try anything once, maybe twice!

  10. #170