This morning started with a trip down to my local giant 2 acre never used pristine parking lot with no curbs other than
those at the perimeter and no light posts. Jato heaven. Upon arrival I discovered a county sheriff's deputy holding it down.
I drove up next to him to make sure my nitro car wouldn't be of bother. He said he didn't mind and he'd like to watch.
Blah, blah, cut to- out comes the radar gun. 58 mph!! this took a few tries to find the right throttle increase to avoid the
second gear wheely and I was only able to hold the throttle full open for 2 seconds before time to shut it down for the
quickly approaching curb.
On to the problem and resulting question.
While doing a totally rad tire smoking donut burn-out I shredded a tire and broke my left rear A-arm. How? You've got me.
So I'm searching Tower Hobby for a replacement and I see my choices are a few different aluminums and the stock or the
The dilemma: 1)none of the aluminum replacements come with the ball stud to attach the sway bar linkage and I'm not
sure of the ball or the stud's size. 2)maybe I need to stay with an A-arm that will brake to avoid breaking the next piece
in line since I'm only out 12 bucks minus the tire, which I knew was coming (purchased tires a week ago)
If you know the ball stud size for the Golden Horizons A-arm or have any thoughts on stock vs aluminum
I'd appreciate any help.
Do not use aluminum arms. The arms are cheap enough to replace, and putting aluminum ones on there just means you'll break something else which will be even harder to fix.
The RPM A-arms are the best on the market. They're still plastic, but will still be better than stock.
Listen to minder reader. Buy the RPM's and never look back. Alum is just shelf queen dressing.
Lipo'd and Nitro'd - J-Rod
Ok. I'm with you on saying no to aluminum, but I'm still left with the sway bar linkage issue.
The only image I can find of the RPM arm doesn't even appear to be tapped to accept a ball stud
to attach the sway bar to. So no sway bar?
I believe you can mod it to fit, but I personally don't use the sway bars, as they're hardly efficient imho.
I dot use the sway bars either. Never noticed a big diff. The front end is so light it really doesn't roll into the turns unless you are using really soft springs and oil.
Lipo'd and Nitro'd - J-Rod
+1 to everything jarod and mindreader said above.
I switched to RPM arms after breaking the front and rear arms after 1 week of owning the jato 3.3.
Never broke since, and I also don't use sway bars.
I've got RPM arms on all 5 of my trucks and love them, and with the Jato I don't really notice that much difference without the swaybars. They are definitely the way to go, BUT keep in mind that any arms you put on it that are stronger than stock will potentially transfer the shock from a crash further inboard. I was runnin mine on a dirt road and lost control at a decent speed and just clipped a trailer tire with my right rear and it snapped the suspension pin block. Cheap fix but it requires removing the transmission to fix. This was just a weird crash, just happened to hit it the right way. Haven't broken any other parts related to the arms and I've crashed it a few times off jumps and whatnot. Get the RPM's, you won't be disappointed.
1/16 E-Revo VXL
Cool. RPM it is then.
Oh, and I was wrong about the donut burn-out being the cause of the break. This morning I was cleaning the Jato and found that the other
rear and a front arm are also broken. Both just holding together on a prayer. And it hit me, I handed the transmitter to my girlfriend's 10
yr old so I could troubleshoot his car (he had flooded it) and told him " TINY INPUTS! AND DO NOT FLOOR IT. " I did't see what happened so this
morning I asked "what'd you hit?" He said "Nothing, I swear. It cartwheeled once."