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  1. #1
    RC Competitor
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    Question TMAXX PRO .15 Upgrade/Chassis Question

    Hi guys. I'm upgrading my old Pro .15 to the TRX 3.3 motor. I understand the parts necessary and steps involved to make the change but I was curious about the chassis since I saw the newer version on online for $15. Could I move my front/rear end & driveline over? I also definately want the new longer A-Arms but I was hoping to build some pieces as I go.Do most pieces cross over and fit the newer chassis? I would appreciate it

  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    Apr 2006
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    Yes the front and rear end parts will switch over. But you will need the longer chassis braces and the new style throttle linkage. Also you will need to make new center drive shafts out of axles shafts. Send me a PM if you want more specific info or if you want I can put a package of parts together for you.

    With all that said, I would try and sell your old TMaxx for around $100 and try and find a 4907 or 4908 roller for around $150 as it will have bigger axles, stronger diffs and transmission, the longer body, wider a-arms and stronger steering servo. You will end up spending more than the $50 difference by trying to upgrade your old TMaxx.

  3. #3
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    Cool thanks man. yeah if you could let me know what I need I could get a game plan going and start checking stuff out! LOL. I saw the Chassis online for cheap so just thought why not get that wider stance going too.All the servos cross over too right? Just need the new throttle linkage and exhaust kit? So I'd have to address the drive shaft length right from the start huh? Makes sense since it's longer. Didn't think of that. I was going to use the standard tranny and lose the reverse but had not heard of the driveline mod. good tip thanks. If you could tell me a bit more about that I think I got it. Then when I start busting A-Arms I'll just upgrade piece by piece if necessary. LOL.. I also want a Slash 4x4 and the wife is watchin me. Easier to justify one new RC not two. Any info would be apprecitated!

  4. #4
    RC Racer
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    Apr 2006
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    you will be able to use your rear center shaft but for the front you will need #4951x half shafts cut down so that the straight section of each half shaft is 1.75" long, do not include the U end of the shaft in this measurement.

    You will need the throttle linkage and exhaust kit $25

    E-Z start 2 complete or pull start with glow ignitor $50

    New style owb $12

    Extended length body $30

    half shafts $10

    Extended chassis $15 (don't know if you're getting the chassis braces included for this price)

    So you are at about $140 add $110 for the 3.3 and now you're at $250 and you still haven't upgraded the a-arms, axle shafts and carriers or trans, slipper and brakes that a 4908 roller would have.

  5. #5
    RC Competitor
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    Your awesome man! Thanks a bunch. I definately have my eyes open for a newer model roller if the price is right. I got a free EZ Start2 and 3.3 motor from a friend so I'm saving a bit there... but I understand what your saying. In your opinion would you bother to rebuild a used 3.3 engine or just replace it? I just want to bash it around and have fun with it. No serious track racing or anything like that but speed is fun. where would you go aluminum on this thing and where would you keep the plastic? I know aluminum looks good but little heavier too right? Some people get seriously carried away? what's the best tuned pipe? I see the traxxas blue one and some others? Will the Old style chassis makes this thing uncontrollable? Stay away from the steel spur gears too right? Have a good one!

  6. #6
    RC Competitor
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    Oh Sorry..New Style OWB? LOL..what's that short for?

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
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    Quote Originally Posted by dolphincv View Post
    Oh Sorry..New Style OWB? LOL..what's that short for?
    One way bearing ..

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
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    Ok got that I my list too! Thanks

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
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    Heres a list of common abbreviations found here,

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-Abbreviations

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    Apr 2006
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    Buy a new 3.3 from EBay for about $110 shipped then sell the old carb for $15-20 and $10 for the rest of the engine.
    I prefer plastic over aluminum parts for the price cause you'll still end up braking the aluminum parts as they don't flex. You'll have a hard time keeping the truck right side up without the wide stance a-arms. If you are on a budget the wide stance a-arms and turn buckles on your pro .15 would be the best bang for the buck with the 3.3.

    Give me a PM with your email and I can send you some pics of stuff I have

  11. #11
    RC Competitor
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    the standard a-arms on the old pro .15 are considered wide stance? Can I get just as wide with this old chassis just by changing out the a-arms, axle shafts and carriers then? I just assumed I needed a new chassis to get the width. I doubt the thickness is that big a deal?

  12. #12
    RC Racer
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    Apr 2006
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    the standard a-arms on the old pro .15 are considered wide stance? no

    Can I get just as wide with this old chassis just by changing out the a-arms, axle shafts and carriers then? yes the tmaxx 2.5 parts are a direct changeover without needing new axle carriers. The tmaxx 3.3 parts are beefier but you would need to change some of the bells on the turnbuckles which is simple to do.

    I just assumed I needed a new chassis to get the width. I doubt the thickness is that big a deal? Only need 2.5 chassis if you like getting big air. I would only get the thicker chassis if I could find one for less than $7 shipped.

  13. #13
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    Thanks 67Camaro.Did you get my PM with my email? I would love to see some pics of what you got.I'm definately gonna want the widest stance possible. If its not difficult then the beefier parts are best. Thanks

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