I'll apologize up front, as I have absolutely no clue about this stuff and I obviously have a lot to learn. I bought a new E-Revo brushless with the Mamba motor, and when I opened it up I was expecting that it already had the lipo batteries/chargers, but I must've picked up an older model (5608) as it has the Nimh batteries and no charger...That was a downer; I was really hoping to charge up the batteries and make a few runs when I got home. Anyway, do you guys have any suggestions on which batteries to get, which charger(s), locations to purchase, what parts to replace with stronger parts/common issues, etc. I really appreciate the input. The last RC car I had was probably 20 years ago...things have changed a bit, since then.
SPC lipos are very good and a lot of us here use them. The 6500 mah 50c are about perfect. I'd stick to 4s (2x2s) as it plenty fast and plenty powerful.
If you break axles upgrade to summit shafts.
I have not broken anything on mine running 4s going on a few months of owning it.
I did change spurs and pinion. Running a 21 tooth Robinson racing pinion and 56 tooth spur. It's good for about 43 mph.
Chargers, it depends on how much you want to spend and what you want it to do. Charge more than one pack? Ability to discharge and put in storage mode? All those will cost more but I wouldn't skimp on a charger.
I use the onyx 245 and its ok but it can't discharge but it can charge two packs at once. I use the telemetry voltage meter to run done my packs to storage voltage.
One more thing you should get is the USB castle link so you can hook your esc up to your computer and tweak the esc or update firmware. I like to set my LVC to 3.5 volts per cell and lower brake % and set a bit of punch control.
Also do the slipper breakin then you will likely need to tighten it to about 1/4 off from fully tightened.
You can align your servos so they aren't fighting each other:
There are lots of good threads here and lots of very helpful people.
Last edited by tjtoed; 04-24-2013 at 10:03 AM.
I really appreciate your help. I'm definitely one that looks at quality and function, not just price...In my opinion, the old saying, "you can pick two...good, cheap & fast" applies to just about everything; not just racecars. I'd like to be able to charge at least two packs at a time and not have to stand over it, so standby/storage modes would be great. I'm hoping that there is a charger that will charge the LiPos and the NiMH batteries, so I don't have to buy and deal with multiple chargers.
I am looking to upgrade to the hitec x4 AC. It will charge 4 packs up to 6A and also discharge/storage mode.
It has a built in power supply.
6a is not that high but I always charge at 1c so all my packs get charged at 5A.
Locations? Not Hobby People. Buy from rcplanet.com, towerhobbies.com, amainhobbies.com, thebarnfloor.com, ebay
If you buy aluminum, DONT BUY INTEGY!
Jesus, Lights, RC, Minecraft, LoL
Check your slipper clutch before you run it. Many have had very loose slippers out of the box.
Have a good read thru the manual & this.
AOD's Links Revo
Lipo, LVC, Brushless & Battery charger/charging guides & purchasing links:
Refer to this to setup the Mamba Monster ( MMM ) esc for maximum performance:
CASTLE LINK GUIDE
Refer to this to find parts, upgrades, batts & chargers etc:
And direct from Castle Creations ( the esc manufacturers ):
Driver's ED Manual
LED warning light meanings
you will need Castle link or a field card for programing the ESC, because you need to up the LVC to 3.4v per cell.
break in the slipper
Slipper Clutch Break-In
The E-Revo Brushless Edition’s slipper clutch requires a break-in procedure
to ensure consistent operation with the extremely high power output of
the included Castle Creations Mamba Monster brushless motor system. The
slipper clutch has been adjusted to the correct initial setting for break-in.
Follow these steps to ensure maximum performance and life from your
1. Make your first runs with the model using the stock gearing and 6- or
7-cell NiMH packs, or 2S LiPo packs.
2. Drive normally. The slipper clutch should slip momentarily when
accelerating aggressively on high-traction surfaces (you will hear a
whirring sound when the slipper clutch allows the spur gear to slip).
3. If excessive slippage is noticed (slipping that lasts for more than 3
seconds under hard acceleration), or the slipper clutch slips anytime
the throttle is applied at any lever, stop driving immediately. Let the
slipper clutch cool for 10-15 minutes. When the clutch is cool, test-drive
the vehicle again. If you still experience excessive slippage, allow the
slipper to cool once more, then tighten the slipper nut ¼ turn (turn the
nut clockwise) and repeat the break-in process. Do not adjust the slipper
clutch before it has cooled.
4. Continue to run the vehicle and monitor slipper clutch performance as
noted above, and readjust if necessary. When the run is complete, the
slipper should be fully broken in.
After break-in, the slipper clutch is ready for any type of driving, with any
batteries up to 6S Lipo. Set the slipper clutch so it only slips for a moment
(if at all) under hard acceleration in high-traction conditions. If excessive
slippage is noticed, stop driving immediately. Continuing to drive with a
loose slipper will cause damage to the slipper unit. You must let the slipper
cool down to ambient temperature before tightening the slipper nut and
welcome to the denewboobafacation......
Would you go flip my truck back over??
It looks like I have a lot of reading to do! I'm a car nut, so it shouldn't be difficult to get the basics, but there is obviously a lot to it. I went to a local RC hobby shop, yesterday, and picked up a couple of 2S 6600MAH battery packs and an "onyx 245" charger, but I didn't get an opportunity to do anything except charge the batteries just yet. I'll likely take it outside and drive it a little tonight, and I'll go through the break-in process and try to make sure I'm doing everything right so I don't screw it up. I really appreciate all of the help!