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  1. #81
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    I think one of my trenchers either needs balancing or it has gone egg-shaped. Getting some very odd bouce from one A arm!

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pede Pede View Post
    Sweet, should be ordering a set for my slash soon.
    I actually just installed them today. Will post pics as soon as I can.


    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Nice dude its looking awesome are you going bashing this weekend???.....peace
    Thanks man! And yes, ran with the 3s. Took a while to finish the battery actually. Close to 35 minutes of runtime total, with a 5 minute break in between.

    Glad I did the upgrades since nothing broke, even after 3 cartwheels!


    Quote Originally Posted by doubletapdaddy View Post
    That's quite a "bonus item". Can't wait to see what breaks. Stripped hex maybe?
    Took the chance to get the bonus item since it was on special on spcracing.

    Fortunately, nothing broke but the hex on the right wheel moved a TINY bit of of place, meaning that it SLIGHTLY started to strip. It was good I was running my talons and not the trenchers.


    Quote Originally Posted by o0wiz0o View Post
    I think one of my trenchers either needs balancing or it has gone egg-shaped. Getting some very odd bouce from one A arm!
    Were you running on 3s when this happened?

  3. #83
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    I found out it was water ingress. I seal the rims normally but this one was full of water. I have since put holes in all the tires and tuned it upside down and booted it for 10 mins...The amount of water that came out! The rig is a fair bit lighter now.

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by o0wiz0o View Post
    I found out it was water ingress. I seal the rims normally but this one was full of water. I have since put holes in all the tires and tuned it upside down and booted it for 10 mins...The amount of water that came out! The rig is a fair bit lighter now.
    I see. I thought it was caused by the 3s...

    Updates... Sway Bars! (Traxxas part num: 6898) with a little mod done to it. Read on to find out.

    Thanks a lot to forum member doubletapdaddy for this mod!

    Anyways, the sway bars came with solid ball screw connectors (circled in red). I took all the hollow ball pivot connectors from the original shocks that came with my stampede 4x4 vxl (Circled in yellow). I then removed the solid ball screw connector on the sway bars and replaced them with the hollow ball pivot connectors. I did all of this in order for me to pass the original screw that attaches the shock guard (inner hole) on RPM A-arms without any mods at all since the hollow ball pivot connector is the same length as the original spacer that came with the truck.

    Here's a comparison between the solid ball screw connector (circled in red) and hollow ball pivot connector (Circled in yellow):




    Here you can see what I did. Left side is the hollow ball pivot connector (Circled in yellow) VS the solid ball screw connector (circled in red). I did one only one side for comparison:




    Front sways done with hollow ball pivot connector :




    Rear sways done with hollow ball pivot connector:




    Before Sway Bars:





    After Sway Bars:




    Quick recap on "Blue Bayou's" mods:
    -->Blue RPM A-Arms (Fronts) - DONE!
    -->Outerwears Shroud - DONE!
    -->DIY Lid lowering - DONE!
    -->T-Bone racing front bumper and Servo Guard - DONE!
    -->Aluminum Bearing Adapter - DONE!
    -->Kingheadz motor mount - DONE!
    -->Blue Aluminum Bearing Carriers - DONE!
    -->Blue RPM A-Arms (Rear) - DONE!
    -->Blue Aluminum Steering knuckles - DONE!
    -->Blue Aluminum Caster Blocks - DONE!
    -->Rear Teknos - DONE!
    -->Front MIP CVD's - DONE!
    -->ESC Fan - DONE!
    -->Motor fan - DONE!
    -->Aftermarket shocks - DONE!
    -->Better wheels and tires- DONE!
    -->Sway Bars - DONE!

    Upcoming mods:
    -->Wire Mesh over ESC
    -->Aluminum hexes

    Projects:
    -->Plastidipped Talons in Black - DONE!
    -->Chassis Dye, Black - DONE!
    Last edited by cooleocool; 04-02-2013 at 03:57 PM. Reason: merge

  5. #85
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    Cool....Like to know how they affect handling and with stand bashing? They look like they could pop out?

  6. #86
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    Update! Tekno Rear Aluminum Hexes! I already have MIP alum hexes in front, so I just needed the rears.

    Before Aluminum Hexes (Plastic):




    After Aluminum Hexes (I used Red loctite to help keep the screw in place):



    One more pic (Right side):



    Quick recap on "Blue Bayou's" mods:
    -->Blue RPM A-Arms (Fronts) - DONE!
    -->Outerwears Shroud - DONE!
    -->DIY Lid lowering - DONE!
    -->T-Bone racing front bumper and Servo Guard - DONE!
    -->Aluminum Bearing Adapter - DONE!
    -->Kingheadz motor mount - DONE!
    -->Blue Aluminum Bearing Carriers - DONE!
    -->Blue RPM A-Arms (Rear) - DONE!
    -->Blue Aluminum Steering knuckles - DONE!
    -->Blue Aluminum Caster Blocks - DONE!
    -->Rear Teknos - DONE!
    -->Front MIP CVD's - DONE!
    -->ESC Fan - DONE!
    -->Motor fan - DONE!
    -->Aftermarket shocks - DONE!
    -->Better wheels and tires- DONE!
    -->Sway Bars - DONE!
    -->Aluminum hexes - DONE!

    Upcoming mods:
    -->Wire Mesh over ESC

    Projects:
    -->Plastidipped Talons in Black - DONE!
    -->Chassis Dye, Black - DONE!

    Quote Originally Posted by o0wiz0o View Post
    Cool....Like to know how they affect handling and with stand bashing? They look like they could pop out?
    I'll definitely let you know if they are worth it.

    The sway bars (Front and back) are held tightly by the two black screws... I just have to find out when I go bashing later this week.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 04-02-2013 at 03:56 PM. Reason: merge

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by stampede_fanatic View Post
    I'll definitely let you know if they are worth it.

    The sway bars (Front and back) are held tightly by the two black screws... I just have to find out when I go bashing later this week.
    Remember that they should be secure, not tight. The bars need to pivot with ease.
    Someone stole my signature.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by doubletapdaddy View Post
    Remember that they should be secure, not tight. The bars need to pivot with ease.
    Thanks for telling me that man. I thought those bad boys should be on there tight.

  9. #89
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    The bars need to pivot so that load can be distributed. On the front, for example, if the left side is compressed (while turning), the sway bar will provide additional resistance in concert with the left shock. When the left and right sides are both compressed (landing after a jump), both sides of the sway bar will move at the same time, providing no additional resistance and leaving the work to the shocks.
    Last edited by doubletapdaddy; 02-25-2013 at 01:05 PM.
    Someone stole my signature.

  10. #90