i was just wondering what carbs. will fit the 3.3?the stock trx carbs. are grt till they crack or break.
The losi 3.4 carb is direct drop in. Works great really wakes a 3.3 up. I have a spare one I thought about trying on a modded 2.5. There are some others that work, a couple of os ones, and an rb123 I think. I think the rb one takes some modding to make work. There is a thread either in here or in the slayer section, if you do a search you should be able to find it.
Rusty 2.5R,T-max 2.5 & 3.3,Summit VXL Nitro 4-tec
losi 3.4 carb an THS pipe really kicks using characters to work around the language filter is not allowed... ...
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revo 3.3 tmaxx 3.3 ofna hyper 7
OS engines 11K slide carb will change this motor for the better. I had no real troubles with the stock TRAXXAS carb, but out of curiosity tried an 11K of an OS 21TM.
Straight away I noticed a difference, it even sounded different. Very ease to tune, and seems to hold tune/be less finicky than before. The nice consistent low idel I am able to set is also very welcomed. Seems to have a little more power through the entire rev range also. The consistency is the best bit though.
The 11K is found on both of the OS engines I own. The 21TM and the 18TM. It is a direct bolt on replacement in a TRX 3.3
TRAXXAS...................Should be :- KIXXAS.
The rb carb has a plastic sleeve that is easy to cut off. It is on one of my motors but almost impossible to find. I also had a losi and the ofna carb as well. Never ran either one. I havent held the 11k but the rb and losi are the same size wise compared to the ofna that has a huge body and makes for a tight fit on the flywheel.
For performance as long as you car or truck is light you will see better power on the top. I built a couple short blocks (no carb or head) for a guy who has a all aluminum rustler that races dirt oval. He has ran them all except for the rb and with a heavy truck the stock one has the best bottom for the weight. Getting out of the corner faster is better for him.
Personaly Id rather just run a stock one and have the motor modded than pay for a carb that helps just a little. A good mod will more than double the hp and tq #'s. There isnt a carb out there that can do that.
True but being a traxxas forum I can tell you the 3.3 does have a pretty good carb to begin with. Yes a bigger one can help a stock motor and might bump it up from 1hp to 1.3 and change the curve to the top end more. Since I mod them and have tried all the carbs I can tell you that a mod will give it over 2hp easily. A bigger carb will change the torque cure for sure and give more on the top in any situation modded or not.
hello the great folks from traxxas,i've been a traxxas loyal since the first t-maxx in '99,bought my first t-maxx in 2000,with the pro.15 engine,was a real fun to have,got tested the 3 different engines design,the standard,the short crank,and the long crank motor,never really had issues with them beside normally wear out parts,normal use,then a bought the new sportmaxx 2.5 in 2003,that one was great success,never had a single problem with it,was a blast to had.been out of nitro since 2004,bought the new t-maxx 3.3 last summer (june 2012) wow that one is perfect in size and the parts quality have increased a lot,performances wise the 3.3 is really impressive,smooooooth for a little engine (great pipe on it traxxas did fantastic job on the dual resonator chamber),have super wide low end torque response it's insane,top end is not that great,but i'm assuming it's cauze it is a long rod design,got some mods to maximize it on it on the fall.i've burned down the engine after about 9.5 gallons of fuels.got another motor with the box only after then.they're really not big issues with the 3.3,been reading the post on the board over here since a few months,and trying it,done that,the real big problem with the 3.3 is the high airflow dual stage air filter that come with the t-maxx 3.3.i realized it after i got used to the new engine with the small air filter that came with (the one that is used on the 2.5 motor) after few testing,the problem does't come from the carb like most poeple does,it came from the air filter,the big one,when you cut off the engine,let a major amount of fuel into the carb outlet,so when you pull the carb trigger out,it flood engine EVERYTIME,i've broked-in my new engine with the small air filter that came with the box,and after every cool down during the process was still fired up each time without bogging and was running highly rich for broken-in,same glow plug all long,for exemple,when the motor was ready to run at max operation state,i've put back the big air flow air filter,the problem came back,motor always flooded,hard to tune cauze have always to much fuel through the crankcase,always changing glow plugs,trying different needle set.... and just cannot maintain consistant temp.use the small air filter ONLY and your tuning problems will be gone.i've even tested to drill bigger hole through the carb needle to find it out,was a different story to talk about but,beleive me,it's the same carb as the 2.5 engine so it take the small air filter to get best running time.thanks for reading,i'm a 2 stroke snowmobiles and atv modding fan for over 25 years,i known what i talk about,take my words for what it worth and test it,you'll find it by yourself,the 3.3 motor is a real powerhouse for it displacment.
Is owning 25 RC's too many?... Nope!