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  1. #1
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    Stampede 4x4 Vxl 4 pole motor heatsink question

    I am new to the RC auto/trucks scene (been flying helis for the last three years) and having lots of fun with my new Stampede 4x4 Vxl. After an outdoor session yesterday there was still some juice left on the NiMH lipo so I put my Stampede upside down and ran it for maybe around 4 to 5 minutes... Not at full throttle but at a variety of speeds to try to run down the NiMH, also steering the wheels back and forth all the time.

    I did notice the motor got hot... Not scalding hot but from my experience with Scorpion motors on my helis it was around 50 to 60 C. I could touch it for 5 to 10 seconds before I had to let go. This got me started researching heat sinks for the Vinileon 4 pole motor. Can anybody recommend a heat sink / heat sink fan combo that will fit this motor? Thanks!

    A few pics of my Stampede my wife took while I was doing some drifts and donuts in the snow:









    A few Stampede Pics









    Edited for language abuse. If you see a starred out word in your post, you must edit it out to avoid earning warning points.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-05-2015 at 08:53 AM.

  2. #2
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    just search for 540 motor heatsink or 36mm

  3. #3
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    Thanks skmfkr, I am probably going to get the Integy HSF combo like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Super-Brushles..._cd_al_qh_dp_i

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    id buy something to measure the temp first. i use tbe duratrax flashpoint. i got it from amazon

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    People seem to like the integy heatsing and fan

    My truck came with it and it has worked perfect since ive owned it (over a year now)

  6. #6
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    Dude you're wife is awesome with a camera and as the guy's have said a temp gun is a must in this hobby and integy makes good fans but check out the hobbywing mega fan with a little dremel work it will be the best as keeping the motor in the safe zone with the right gearing.....peace
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  7. #7
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    here is a cheap combo ive used before
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/N10026-Alumi...item2c84f887cd

    i use this one now since i like the color better
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Heat...item5d5305b9dd

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Just a little fyi, nimhs don't like being run all the way down. Nicads did, but it isn't recommended to run a nimhs ALL the way down.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

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    Quote Originally Posted by mwe-maxxowner View Post
    Just a little fyi, nimhs don't like being run all the way down. Nicads did, but it isn't recommended to run a nimhs ALL the way down.
    The Traxxas Battery Basics Webpage suggests otherwise though:

    Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries should be fully discharged before charging, and should be stored fully discharged (just use the battery in your R/C vehicle until the battery can no longer move it).

    Here is the link to the web page were the paragraph in italics above was copy pasted from: https://traxxas.com/support/Traxxas-Battery-Basics

    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Dude you're wife is awesome with a camera and as the guy's have said a temp gun is a must in this hobby and integy makes good fans but check out the hobbywing mega fan with a little dremel work it will be the best as keeping the motor in the safe zone with the right gearing.....peace
    Thanks! She took the pics and edited the images. I will get a temp gun so I can monitor the temps better. Still researching the HSF I will be getting... It looks like there are plenty of options out there. So far my plan is to just use the stock gearing with 2S lipos which I have just ordered although things may change as I get more familiar with the Stampede.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-25-2015 at 10:43 AM. Reason: merge

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    I guess I'm wrong, then. I was always advised against using my nimh packs until the truck no longer moved back in my old emaxx days.

    I don't know why I was told that, or thought I was. Just spent a few minutes researching them, and I find that it isn't really necessary with Nimh to fully discharge to the point of no movement, it isn't harmful. Maybe the knowledge has changed on nimh batteries in the last 10 years?
    Last edited by mwe-maxxowner; 01-05-2015 at 08:05 PM.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Yeah sticking with 2s until you know the truck is a good idea dude and just replace what you break.the only two mods to do are aluminium shockcaps and bearing adaptor....peace
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  12. #12
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    rear drive shafts for me was needed. i broke the output shaft but i had a spare, but then the ball joints still popped out trying to do wheelies. stripping hexes was also a problem.

  13. #13
    RC Champion Jimdog's Avatar
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    If I'm right that 50c is close to 130f I think you are at a good temp I wouldn't worry until around 80c.
    Whatever you are, be a good one.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Yeah sticking with 2s until you know the truck is a good idea dude and just replace what you break.the only two mods to do are aluminium shockcaps and bearing adaptor....peace
    Still waiting for the 2S lipo I ordered. I find Lipos less finicky than NIMH in general. I also ordered the aluminum shockcaps along with a Bastens type heatsink from another supplier. The Bastens itself was not available for shipping here to Canada.

    Good advice on replacing parts as they break... This is what I intend to do.

  15. #15
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    I ruined my Mamba max pro due to water damage. Ended up installing the new vxl esc (4 pole compatability) with the 3800kv castle creations motor in my stampede. Wow! I'm waterproof again, no heating issues whatsoever and I run 3S. Guys, the stock VXL 3500KV motor really can't handle 3S lipo. A lot of heating issues. 4-pole ESC and motors are the way to go. PERIOD.

  16. #16
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    The Stampede 4x4 Vxls that have been coming out since Fall have the new 4 pole Vinileon motor and new ESC with three caps visible. Yes both are waterproof. This is what greeted me after I took the lid off my Stampede after doing drifts and donuts in the snow (pictured above):



    I have since ordered the Dusty Motors cover to prevent snow and debris accumulating in the motor and battery compartment.

    I have also ordered the fanless Bastens heatsink which I am hoping will keep the temps down come summertime. Other upgrades I will be installing soon are a Traxxas ESC fan, aluminum shock caps, Stampede LED lights, and Proline Trenchers. I am happy with the Talons right now especially when doing drifts and donuts in the snow. However the Trenchers would probably be better when I start using the Stampede in tall grass come spring/summertime.

  17. #17
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    The parts I ordered finally arrived a few days ago. Bastens motor heat sink, Traxxas ESC fan, Proline Trenchers, Aluminum shock caps, RPM bumper, LED lights, black body. Here is how the Stampede looks now...







    I applied thermal paste to the heat sink prior to mounting it to the motor... I am hoping that will assist heat transfer to the heat sink.

  18. #18
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    dont use that fan is the snow. its actually pretty durable. ive ran mine in mud and wet grass. it locked up until i rinse it off in the sink to free it from debris.

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    Thanks for the tip. I will be installing a Dusty Motors shroud to keep snow (in the winter) and debris (Spring to Fall) out... I have it on order and am just awaiting delivery. The ESC did not even get warm the last time I was driving it in the snow. However, with the shroud on there might not be as much ventilation so I am hoping the fan (along with the heatsink on the motor) will help keep things somewhat cool.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclo View Post
    The parts I ordered finally arrived a few days ago. Bastens motor heat sink, Traxxas ESC fan, Proline Trenchers, Aluminum shock caps, RPM bumper, LED lights, black body. Here is how the Stampede looks now...







    I applied thermal paste to the heat sink prior to mounting it to the motor... I am hoping that will assist heat transfer to the heat sink.
    Sick looking truck dude.Trenchers rock ....peace
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  21. #21
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    Thanks spenniepoos! Based on my research here in the Traxxas forums there is still one must have update I need to do to this truck... the aluminum bearing adapter.

  22. #22
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    Yeah I learned the hard way my stock one melted which stripped the spur and popped the bearingso yeah well worth the money dude.I also think that trenchers are the Swiss army knife of tires because they do well on most surfaces and last ages too....peace
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  23. #23
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    Pantyhose shroud works!

    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Yeah I learned the hard way my stock one melted which stripped the spur and popped the bearingso yeah well worth the money dude.I also think that trenchers are the Swiss army knife of tires because they do well on most surfaces and last ages too....peace
    I am about to order that part... Should be able to complete the mod by next week. Yes I like both the improved traction of these Trenchers as well as the improved looks.

    Anyways I thought I would share a mod that I did that greatly reduced the amount of cleaning/drying I had to do after playing with the Stampede on snow.

    I am calling this the Pantyhose mode My wife is going to kill me when she finds out I ruined a pair of her pantyhose LOL.

    Basically I cut the waist part off and this is what I use to make a shroud... On the top section of this piece I then placed four holes where the body support will go in. I also had one of those flexible cables on the front to narrow down the opening in the front so less snow/debris could get kicked in from the tires. Check it out:



    Even with the Trenchers, the Stampede could get stuck in snow. However check out some of the snow which was not able to get into the motor area because of the shroud:



    Much less snow to remove/dry out after the snow bashing session. No snow accumulation in the motor, ESC, lipo area at all (you can compare this to the pic a couple of posts above):



    Closeup of the motor/ESC/lipo area... Snow/water still snuck up to the receiver/servo area but the motor/ESC remained relatively dry:



    The mod still allows air to move freely from front to back... The motor and ESC were not that warm to the touch but the real test regarding cooling will come in the summer.

    Last edited by cyclo; 01-17-2015 at 05:38 PM. Reason: Added pics

  24. #24
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    Cyclo
    Nice mod, I've been trying to come up with a homemade shroud

    So all you're using is the top waist section plus about 6 to 8 inches down

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yathump View Post
    Cyclo
    Nice mod, I've been trying to come up with a homemade shroud

    So all you're using is the top waist section plus about 6 to 8 inches down
    Correct! The top section about 6 to 7 inches in width (or length) when un-stretched. You then stretch it out when fitted to the body. Note that I did not include the topmost section of the pantyhose which had the thicker garter.

    I did this mod as I want to keep driving the Stampede in snow while waiting for the Dusty Motors shroud to arrive. Now I am thinking there might be no need for the Dusty Motors. Also this pantyhose mod, I think, allows better flow of air front to back. I will do measurements when I get a temp gun.

    EDIT: Here is a closer view of the front section of the shroud. Note the flexible wire which is supported by the front canopy mount which I used to make the front opening narrower so less debris kicked up by the front tires could get in:

    Last edited by cyclo; 01-17-2015 at 06:20 PM.

  26. #26
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    Great thanks for that

  27. #27
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    Such a awesome mod dude I think I need to in my wife's clothes draw lol but if she finds out I am in trouble...peace
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Such a awesome mod dude I think I need to in my wife's clothes draw lol but if she finds out I am in trouble...peace
    Thanks dude! Necessity is the mother of modding LOL. I have an idea on how to improve this mod further but will need the assistance of my wife who has the sewing skills.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclo View Post
    Thanks dude! Necessity is the mother of modding LOL. I have an idea on how to improve this mod further but will need the assistance of my wife who has the sewing skills.
    I'm thinking a longer section and take it way to the front of the shock tower is what I may try, I like the thoughts of the big air gap between the electronics and whatever I use for the shroud

  30. #30
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    My eldest daughter has sick sewing skills and her own machine so I think it's time for some heavy bribes lol....peace
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yathump View Post
    I'm thinking a longer section and take it way to the front of the shock tower is what I may try, I like the thoughts of the big air gap between the electronics and whatever I use for the shroud
    You read my mind haha. I am thinking getting the smaller piece maybe from the leg then sewing this into the larger section above. That will further keep off the debris but I will leave the front uncovered so air can still freely flow from front to back to assist cooling the motor and ESC. The beauty of the pantyhose material is it is stretchable so you can still most likely stretched this over the body.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclo View Post
    You read my mind haha. I am thinking getting the smaller piece maybe from the leg then sewing this into the larger section above. That will further keep off the debris but I will leave the front uncovered so air can still freely flow from front to back to assist cooling the motor and ESC. The beauty of the pantyhose material is it is stretchable so you can still most likely stretched this over the body.
    Exactly
    A section of the leg and secure it to the shock tower with an opening for air flow, I still have to pick up some panty hose cause I think my wife caught on and hide hers lol

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    First, I'll address a few things:
    Quote Originally Posted by traznex View Post
    And I think with Nimh you want to discharge all the way before charging or they can get memory.
    That is incorrect. Ni-Mh cells do not have issues with memory. Running a Ni-Mh battery pack all the way down will actually cause damage to the pack's cells.

    Quote Originally Posted by DialedInRC View Post
    Ideally you want to run a nimh battery down completely but not so far that the battery gets hot during the process.
    That is incorrect (see above).
    Ideally you want to charge the battery right before you run when it's warm off the charger.
    That is partially correct. While a fresh, "warm off the charger" battery pack will perform better, you do not want to leave a Ni-Mh pack discharged. Ni-Mh packs have self-discharging properties. If you leave a Ni-Mh pack discharged, the pack will overdischarge itself. If you want to, you can always repeak the batteries just before a run.

    Now to the original post:
    Quote Originally Posted by Ianosa21 View Post
    I thought my truck was going to run for a longer time but it just ran about a good 15-20 mins. I don't know if that is average but it felt the battery died real quick and I wanted to do more with my truck.
    15-20 minutes sounds pretty good for the supplied Ni-Mh pack.
    I charge it to full every time I give it a go. Is that okay?
    Yes, that's perfectly fine. As noted above, repeaking a Ni-Mh pack just before a run will actually help the battery perform at its best.
    Is it okay to charge the battery to full every time i bring it outside even though battery is not dead yet or is it better to only charge it every time the battery dies.
    That is also perfectly fine.

    Another thing to note about Ni-Mh cells is that you need to be sure that you are not running them past the voltage drop. When you see your vehicle starting to slow down, you need to stop. Running the truck past the voltage drop will cause damage to the cells.

    This is why I am now confused I'm not looking for an argument, or to prove I'm right, I'm just confused as to why there now seems to be a different idea about nimh batteries than what I've always seen. I do want to make sure we are all on the same page and spreading the right information, whether that be what I've always thought, or just the opposite.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-25-2015 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Added subquotes for context.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwe-maxxowner View Post
    This is why I am now confused I'm not looking for an argument, or to prove I'm right, I'm just confused as to why there now seems to be a different idea about nimh batteries than what I've always seen. I do want to make sure we are all on the same page and spreading the right information, whether that be what I've always thought, or just the opposite.
    Usage: I have done a bit more research on this subject and the bottom line appears to be that it is up to you to discharge the nimh fully or not after you use it... And assuming you are going to use it again in a day or so.

    Storage: From my research, it appears it is better to store them fully charged. There appears to be debate on this one.

    Charging: Charge anywhere from .33 to 1.0 C. This means if you have a 3000 mah nimh, you set the charger to charge at 1A (.33 C) to 3A (1.0 C). The best IMHO is to set it at .5 C (1.5 A). It is best if you have a peak detecting charger which could detect when the nimh is fully charged. However from research sometimes peak detection fails so it is best to monitor the nimh... When it starts getting warm that means it is probably fully charged. Don't wait until it gets really hot... Doing this too often can damage the cells.

    I am using chargers that have a temp sensor and I set it so when the sensor detects that the nimh temp is 40C it shuts down assuming peak detection does not shut it down earlier.

    Having said all that I bought two 2S 5000 mah 25C lipos for my Stampede. Lipos are so much easier to charge, discharge, put on storage for me as I have been doing this for 3 years already with all the lipos I have for my helicopters and quad. One thing with lipos is you have to be careful when charging (don't charge them unattended and always balance charge) and storing them (I use cinder blocks, others use ammo cans).

    Here is a pic of my lipo storage bunker:


  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    My gp3300 batteries lasted a long, long time. One is still kicking, lol, but I finally just quit using it. Not now that there are 5000+ lipos. My old nimh charger false peaked all the time. It was frustrating. I also used a temp monitor, which is a great idea.

    I like that storage "bunker". I might have to set myself something like that up in my building.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclo View Post
    Usage: I have done a bit more research on this subject and the bottom line appears to be that it is up to you to discharge the nimh fully or not after you use it... And assuming you are going to use it again in a day or so.

    Storage: From my research, it appears it is better to store them fully charged. There appears to be debate on this one.

    Charging: Charge anywhere from .33 to 1.0 C. This means if you have a 3000 mah nimh, you set the charger to charge at 1A (.33 C) to 3A (1.0 C). The best IMHO is to set it at .5 C (1.5 A). It is best if you have a peak detecting charger which could detect when the nimh is fully charged. However from research sometimes peak detection fails so it is best to monitor the nimh... When it starts getting warm that means it is probably fully charged. Don't wait until it gets really hot... Doing this too often can damage the cells.

    I am using chargers that have a temp sensor and I set it so when the sensor detects that the nimh temp is 40C it shuts down assuming peak detection does not shut it down earlier.

    Having said all that I bought two 2S 5000 mah 25C lipos for my Stampede. Lipos are so much easier to charge, discharge, put on storage for me as I have been doing this for 3 years already with all the lipos I have for my helicopters and quad. One thing with lipos is you have to be careful when charging (don't charge them unattended and always balance charge) and storing them (I use cinder blocks, others use ammo cans).

    Here is a pic of my lipo storage bunker:

    Your storage bunker is sick another awesome mod from you that does not cost the earth...peace
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  37. #37
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    Thanks dude! With lipos it is always better to be safe than sorry. The cinder blocks are also cheap... Got them at the local Home Depot. Others put sand enclosed in plastic bags to cover the top... The theory is in the case one or more of the lipos burst into flames (unlikely when not charging but still a possibility) the plastic will melt and let the sand through and hopefully smother the flames.

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