HEY GUYS HAPPY NEW YEAR
I NEED SOME HELP WITH AN EMAXX THAT I'M BUILDING. ALL THE HELP IS GREATY APPRECIATED. I WILL CERTAINLY POST PICS OF MY BUILD AND IT'S PROGRESS. THIS IS MY FIRST POST. I HOPE MEMBERS CAN OFFER AS MUCH INPUT AS POSSIBE AS IT WILL ALL BE CONSIDERED.
I Have an Emaxx that will be built with FLM Hybrid Bulkheads, RPM axle carriers, RPM True Track in the rear. It will soon have a FLM chasis as well, not the LCG one. I was inspired with Petraeus's EMBUE build. I currently will be utilizing the stock Emaxx chasis and the Traxxas Steel Driveshafts until I order the FLM chasis and LOSI XXL LST2 ( LOSB3520 ) driveshafts.
Can anyone tell me what drive cups I will need in order to install my current Traxxas Steel CVDs with the FLM Hybrid Bulkheads? Will i need to stick with the stock plastic center driveshafts? Will the Traxxas Steel center driveshafts not work with the FLM hybrid bulkheads with the stock chasis? What drive cups will I need? Anything else that I should know about? I really appreciate the help.
I would like to get LOSI XXL LST2 ( LOSB3520 ) driveshafts. Did i get the LOSI part number right? This was inspired by Petraeus's EMBUE build. How can I make them work with my FLM Hybrid bulkheads? I will be using RPM carriers and RPM True Track in the Rear. Anyone have any suggestions? I guess the Losi XXL LST2 Driveshafts ( LOSB3520 ) blow the Steel Traxxas Driveshafts out of the water ? I want a bulletproof drivetrain.I'm just not sure what drive cups i'll end up needing for the Losi Driveshafts, how to make them work and fit onto my Emaxx once I get the FLM chasis, what center driveshafts I can currently use with my stock Emaxx chasis and what cups I will currently need in order to run my Traxxas Steel CVDs with the FLM hybrid bulkheads with my stock Emaxx chasis. And I'm also not sure If i have to stick with the stock plastic center driveshafts until I get the FLM chasis that comes equipped with center driveshafts. Any suggestions are welcome and would greatly be appreciated. Thanks soo much guys, I hope I have a great year and get a bulletproff Emaxx established in early 2013. I can with all your help!
These are just some pics, more to come. I hope to order the drivecups that I need to install my Traxxas Steel Driveshafts with my FLM Hybrid Bulkheads and stock Chasis. I already have Traxxas Steel Center Driveshafts and the Stock Plastic ones. I will probably order the FLM chasis and the LOSI XXL LST2 driveshafts in the very near future once I get some input and figure out how I can have them work with my setup, Thanks !
The modifications so far to the Emaxx are the following:
Traxxas Aluminum Bulkheads Front and Rear ( soon to be replaced with my FLM Hybrid Bulkheads Front and Rear )
RPM front and rear bumpers
RPM Arms in all four corners
Traxxas Steel CVDs in all four and down the center ( Hopefully to be replaced with LOSI XXL LST2 Drive shafts )
Stock Shocks with Traxxas Nitrite Shafts with RPM Stage 2 Pistons harnessed within Bad Horsie Shock Covers
Pro Line Road Rage Tires
Lunsford Racing Titanium Hinge Pins ( Soon to be replaced with Plastix through Steel Pins ) Can anyone post thier pictures of how they might suggest using the Plastix ejector pins with the Traxxas Aluminum bulkheads? I know the FLM Hybrid Bulkheads have an area for a grubscrew to keep them in place. Pictures really help me so if anyone can post pictures of how they utlized the Plastix Ejector pins that would be great and very beneficial! Plenty more where these pics and plans came from....a ton more to come shortly!
Thanks 50togo! I'll take a look !
I have one truck already built and am in the process of building another one with the same parts. The truck that I'm building right now will have FLM Hybrid Bulkheads and chasis. The Emaxx I have built right now will remain the the way it is except for the removal of the Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pins. I will be using my Plastix Ejector Pins. Can anyone post pictures or explain the way they mounted thier Plastix Ejector Pins so they stay put? I don't want to end up bending a Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pin in my bulkhead because its a pain in the rear to try to remove a bent hinge pin. I'd rather just snap a Plastix Pin. I've heard many good things about the Plastix Ejector Pins and so I'm just trying to figure out the best way to have them stay put in my Traxxas Aluminum bulkheads. I'll be using them on my new Emaxx build with the FLM bulks. Any pics from anyone showcasing how they used the grubscew feature to secure the Ejector Pins would be great!
As seen from the above three pictures, another modification already made is an GH Racing aluminum servo saver. I still have the black plastic stock servo saver and have seen many people remain with the stock plastic servo savers. Since i've upgraded to the GH Racing aluminum servo saver I've snapped the top plastic gear on both my TRA2075 and TRA2056 servos twice. I'm thinking that maybe its a better idea to remain with the stock plastic servo saver so it provides some "give" and doesn't snap another one of my plasitc stock gears in my stock Traxxas servos. Only if I could find some compatible metal gears for my Stock Traxxas Servos. Anyone have any ideas or knowhows about what metal gears might fit in stock Traxxas 2075 and 2056 servos? ? ? I plan on getting a single, maybe dual really good metal geared servos down the road at some point.
Also, I found this really helpful video by another member that was realling helpful in shimming the FLM Hybrid Bulkheads. Anyone have any other suggestions or tips? Please help, thanks !
That video was from " A468BU "
Thank you very much A468BU for assembling that very helpful video on how to shim the FLM bulks
Good luck with the build mate...I'll be watching
Rock n Rolla !
Thanks Craig.mitch316 ! I will have two Emaxxs in the works before my third build. One will be FLM based and the one seen above will be reconstructed with the Ejector Pins and possibly sport some Losi LST XXL Driveshafts. I might be able to get work done on a Drill Press to accomodate my RPM Carriers to house the proper bearings for the Losi Driveshafts. If not then I might have to stick with using a standard hand drill with a drill bit to do the job. Once I figure out what drivecups I can use for the Losi Driveshafts I should be that much closer to finishing up ! I will post pics of my progress ! I'll try to get as much input from everyone as far as what drivecups are recommended and what other techniques are suggested, with the ejector pins, adopting the stronger, sturdier Losi Driveshafts on the Emaxx, and such forth. I will also look into possibly getting some Titanium Screws from Lunsford's website here and there, in order to get the best "threads" in the cloth of my builds. Its a great learning experiance!
Wow, that's awesome. Keep it up
Hey Ba**** i'm located in Albany, New York - Upstate. Nice Youtube video. I've been doing alot of research. I agree with you as you said in your video that you might want to replace the RPM Shock Towers, yes-they bend and flex- which is not going for shock pistons and shafts. So what Im going to do is probably get the FLM or UE Shock Towers and have the 8mm Carbon Rod attached to each shock tower as Petraeus did so there is no bending or flexing. I was thinking of maybe doing something similar with the RPM shock towers to keep them from bending or flexing, can easily be done. How do you get your Titanium Hinge Pins out when they end up bending? I tried one time and it seemed very hard to do. Thats why I went to the Plastix Ejector Pins ( which I still have to install ).
Glad to see my video is still helping people out with the shimming process of these diffs.
Usman, Heres a couple pics of what you need to do, to use the lst2 axles with the rpm knuckles. drive cups with 8mm hole for lst2 axles doghbone end. I used 1-pc ue cups but theres others ones that will work too. Some .009 thick shims to wrap around a 15x24x5mm bearing. and some 3/4" i.d. x 24mm o.d. spacers to put behind the bearings (thickness depends on how far the drivecups stick out from the bulk ,how far your pillow balls screwed in ect.) Basicly you want to space them to where the dogbone fits in the propper spot in the cup with no binding. I tried .007 shims for the bearings and found it a little loose for my liking. so i used .009 and beveled one inner edge on a beburring wheel as a little lead in angle to get the bearing in. Its tough to get them in with .009 shim but nice and tight once in place.
To drill the holes in the axles you will need a jig to hold the axle and guide the drill and a vice to hold them both together so the axle dont move and a drill press. It also needs to be very accurate or your holes will be a little off center and the pins wont fit. You also want to be ever so careful when drilling them,use cutting fluid or oil will do.and drill very slowly,especially when breaking through the axle walls. very easy to break the drill. (hence the two holes in my jig) broke a hss drill in there and had some time getting it out. Or if your not so picky or dont have a way to drill them you can just put spacers behind your hubs. You also might need to shorten the ends of them to fit your particular wheel hubs. heres a pic of the jig to drill holes
hope this helps.
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 03-17-2013 at 12:46 PM.
Hey thank you for that. I've been running the Traxxas Steel CVDs for a while now. Finally got the truck up to 4S LiPo. I've noticed that the Traxxas Steel CVDs have bent slightly, warped so to say, and so when i pick the truck up and give a little throttle, i see the CVDs wobbling. So I do figure the Losi LST2 axles are better and stronger and I'll be upgrading to them eventually. For the time being, I'll save these notes and refer back to them later. I'm having an issue with the drive cups that came with my Traxxas Steel CVDs. The drive cup seems a hair to short. The other day I hit a snow bank, got about 5 feet airbourne, and landed to find out that one of my dogbones poped out of the drive cup. After some investigation I realized that when my Emaxx's arms extend up or down all the way, the dogbone has a great chance of poping out, impeeding my drivetime. Does anyone know of any better, stronger, longer drive cups that will work with my current setup on this Emaxx of mine with stock diffs and Traxxas Steel CVDs? The pictures can show how the drive cups are slightly too short, and have the potential of having my axles pop out during max range of arm movement. I would like to get some UE drivecups, but I don't know which ones to get?:
And also, does anyone know where I can get little or rings to put on my dogbones, I hear that it helps keep the dogbone in thedrive cup better. I don't know which o rings to get, what size, and how to install them correctly, anyone have any suggestions?
Try giving the top and bottom pillow balls one full turn each. Should put the dog bones deeper in the cups
Are your pillow balls screwed most of the way in?
If you need more space in the arm use a smaller then the tread size drill bit & deepen the bore to allow you to seat the pillow balls farther into the arm.
This will move the CVD pin farther into the cup.
For UE or RC Monster dr cup's you need 6mm for the diff input & output's
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
Thanks, I got my hobby wing heat sink with fan for my mamba motor. When I placed it on the motor, there wasn't a tight snug fit, just a tad bit of play, but it eventually sits ontop of my motor with gravity. Any suggestions on maybe how to house the heat sink on my motor better? The fan blows perfectly fine.
Right now my pillow balls are screwed in all the way. If i'm not mistaken, the top one gets screwed in all the way, and its the bottom one to adjust for correct angles. I guess I should deepen the holes more to have a closer connection to the drive cups. I'll take a look at the UE drive cups because I know they are strong.
Actually with rpm arms you screw the pillow ball in until the last thread and then only screw them out for the adjustment. To keep the warranty valid
The UE/RC Monster cups are very hard, not any longer then the Traxxas cups but last longer.
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
I want those drive cups. I' m going to get them. Just to make sure that I don't get the wrong ones, could you please tell me the UE catalog number for these cups or thier driect link? What size are they? Thanks, they should make my emaxx a bit more solid. As far as the RPM Arms and the pivot balls, when I called and spoke with the RPM Tech, he said that you're supposed to screw in the top pivot ball all the way in, until the last thread is no longer visible, and then to screw the bottom pivot ball in accordingly when adjusting your angles, correct me if i'm wrong there because there could just be a better technique. Can't wait to get them UE drive cups, i'll look now, but i just want to make sure I get the right ones, thanks wildman.
Your PM box is full!
6mm, refers to the bore that they fit.
You can try screwing the pivot balls all the way in till they bottom out in the arm then adjust the bottom like the RPM guy said, that my give enough to seat the CVD pin farther into the cup.
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
You can adjust them like that but will weaken them and void the warranty.
Do you have rpm's camber and toe in tools? Never get it perfect without it!
Last edited by 50togo; 03-22-2013 at 09:28 AM.