Besides aluminum bulkheads,any other parts that are a "must have" for this model?
Shimming the diffs- rpm shock Tower- rpm arms with true track in the rear
high amp output lipos & extra teeth spur gears as well as pinions since 17&20 come new stock i would say 21,22,23,24 pinions, 68,65,62? those will have a good combo of speed and torque which ever you want and need so you can gear for what you want.
Most of all whats really needed #1 is have a blast having fun.
DEU 8:18 ESV
Already have some 2S 50C 5000 lipos.Should the two chassis supports be changed for aluminum,or are the stockers ok?
rpm shock towers.
I'm not krazy. My mother had me tested.
I got 3908 for Xmas, second run will not pull front tires up anymore. Sounds like something slipping in rear end. Any thoughts?????
Last edited by etewinkle; 12-26-2012 at 12:30 PM.
Could be the slipper clutch needs to be tightened. If its making a clicking noise,probably the diff.
I ran it twice. the first time it ran great. the second time the ESC burnt up. $1000 in truck,charger and bats and in 20 minutes of running it burnt up. Castle is going to replace the ESC. I just can't believe it. I did not hear a clicking noise. It just would not lift the front end up at all. The nut on the slipper is almost at the end of the adjustment,meaing I still have about 1" more of adjustment left. How much do I adjust the slipper at a time? This is my first real RC truck. Thanks for the reply
Last edited by etewinkle; 12-26-2012 at 03:49 PM.
I would take the slipper apart and check it it may have slipped too much and just wore out. usually if it wont lift up then its the slipper.
DEU 8:18 ESV
Thank you for the 411. as I said I am new to this. I will screw the nut all the way and back off 1/4 turn. But, shouldn't I start from the begining of the adjustment and 1/4 turn it in until it does not slip anymore? or the other way and back off until it starts to slip and then move it back 1/4 turn? like I said, I am just trying to learn.
no this is fine tighten all the way then backoff 1/4 turn should be good
Thank You for you time
I tighten all the way and back off between 1/8 to a 1/4 turn. I like my slipper tight but not too tight...just enough to hear it briefly scream...I always test on a loose surface.
Rock n Rolla !
EMAXX 3908 BE. I now have a new problem, when it stands up on the back two it seems to pull to the left hard. I cannot ride on the back two but for just a second or two and then it flips on its side do to the pulling to the left. I have looked at he yokes and the pins are in everything looks fine. What else could it be?
Your rear toe links could be different. One is probably straight and the other pointing left. Make sure both of your tires are pointing slightly to the inside.
2wd Slash VXL
etewinkle, i think you need your own thread man
ctpatriot, ive been runing 6s total on my truck for longer than 6mo now and the only thing i have broken or had problems with are the bulkheads and the rear toe links backing themselves out. i was stupid and went and bought all rpm for all the way around and i didnt get the true track for the rear and i didn't want to go and get another $50 worth of rpm for the rear so i glued the threads on the rear toe links and set them perfect and they dont back themselves out anymore. so you can either glue them or spend $50 for the true track. but thats all i ever had problems with. never had any differential problems, just as long as you stay with the recommended gearing on the mamba monster chart 20t pinion(option pinion included with truck) and 68t spur(stock) is whats recommended for your 2s 5000mah batteries and is rated at 40mph+.
double post sorry
Ask me you have been lucky!
Or don't bash as hard as I do! Although this hill is a diff killer!
Last edited by 50togo; 01-27-2013 at 05:51 PM.
CHOPSTX, that was the prob. one of my grand kids turned one of the toe links in when I had it apart working on the shocks. Took two turns out to get it true again.
Thanks for the help