New to Erevo brushless, what do i need to know or do to keep me from breaking it..lol
Ive gone from Nitro Revo to E and need as much help as possible..
already having kittens trying to get my head around charging my batteries... (posted thread in chargers) if you feel up to the task of explaining this to me..
I baught the truck a few weeks ago and only managed to get it running for around 40 minutes now.
runnin on stock 8.4V 7cell Nimh its ok, running it on 6s Lipo was a parts breaker... in ten minutes I broke 2x driveshafts and melted my spur, failed the bearing and ruined the slipper cluch, pressure plate and hub..
I replaced the material pads with Alloy and tightened up the slipper but haven't ran 6s since.. I am thinking of running them parallel so at 3s 9000Mah.. what gearing should I be running on the differant batteries nad stuff..
any other info or support with kepping the truck good is much appreciated.
sounds like you need longer gearing
Originally Posted by RevoDeano
too short gearing = hot engine and battery
too long gearing = hot esc and cool battery
perfect= all warm components
whats gearing would be reccomended for duel stock 8.4V 7c NIMH in series and what would be best for the 3s Lipo 9000MAH?
I had a 58tooth 0.8 pitch gear on it before I melted it, no I have a 64toth 0.8 pitch spur but I am unsure of pinion size, I can count them later when I get home and repost..
when I ran the truck yesterday the motor was barely warm and batts were warm, but it was -3 oC.
RC Turnbuckle Jr.
I run 2/3s in series...my gearing is 21/54...I have also customised my ESC settings to my liking with the field link programmer.
Melting the spur...that happens to me from a loose or worn slipper. That's IMO...heres a link to my build thread MITCH316 ERBE rebuild, it may be of some use to you. I did the Losi mod as I got tired of replacing diffs every other day of the week.
Nice write up.....
I am not going to be mod'ing it, I just want to keep up with maintainance and wanted to know if there is anything I should be doing after each run etc...
I have moved from nitro Revo, so I am pretty up to scratch with dismantling and repairs etc.. I might switch a few parts from my nitro to this one.. RPM Arms etc.. would you recomend the steel CV's as I have already broke 2 stock parts.. I have a set on my nitro model I could pinch.
How do you programme the ESC... accordinbg to the guy I got it from its set to know the battery type/power used so I can switch from NIMH to LIPO etc without fiddling with it, but I am not liking the throttle curbs or the brake curb whilst braking in reverse, it just stops dead, and the accelleration in reverse is far to much it takes off like a rocket at even a slight pull of the trigger.. he also told me its set to accellerate gradually when throttle is applies but it seems to have a surge and again takes of... I would rather have a steady gradual curb to be worked via throttle control if possible..
with the gearing the closer the numbers the less torque and more top end,the further aprt the numbers are means more torque and less top end and also depends on what tires you are running.i have 1 with trencher "X's" on it and i've run it on 21/54 18/65 which was the stock gearing it came with and all has worked well.it also depends on what you want to do with it.i like to climb hills and a huge mulch pile so i leave the 18/65 on it and when i/m just playing in the field and hitting some jumps i go with the 21/54 which is also good for speed runs.now the one thing i will strongly suggest you upgrade is to the summit axles.yes the do break but they last ALOT longer then the stock axles do.i've changed all 4 of my erevos to rpm arms.
i would get a pair of 2 cell lipos and ditch the nimh.castle doesn't really recommend them and when you want a little more power run 5s. you would be good with 21/54 gearing for all around fun