I finally got the proper sealed Diffs that are for the 3.3 that have the seals and use the silicone dif fluid (oil) to adjust the Limited slippness of the diffs. I was told that Stock the 3.3 comes with 30K Weight Silicone yet that seemed to me to be to light so I went to 50K and it still seemed a Bit Light so I went to 100K.
Now this may sound weird but the front running the 50K seemes stiffer then teh rear running 100K.
Is there a Trick to making sure you get the Diff full so no air will mix with the silicone and cause it to lose its stiffness?
I was sure expecting the 100K to be quite a bit stiffer then the 30K but it does not seem to be working so well for me and I think I may have done something incorrect when I emptied out the Old fluid and added the 100K.
Do I need to fill the diff with the weight I want and let it sit for a certain amount of time to settle before I assemble the carrier? any SUggestions or Ideas what may be going south here?
I can surely tell by comparing the 30K to the 100K but am not getting the reaction from the diff itself.
I do not want to go to a Locked/ Spool but may be my only option to get the results I want, I happen to end up on 2 wheels a lot and could ride it out and drive off if I could get the power down to the wheel on the ground but I end up just stopping and falling over no matter what throttle control I attempt to use.
I think there is only 120K, 150K, 500K and 1,000K or at least I seen on listed as 1,000K not sure if there is a 1,000K or not.
T-Maxx 3.3 :)
When I install the ring gear to the cup. I leave one of the four screws out. This will allow the air/extra dif fluid to bleed out, when I tighten the three screws. Then install the last screw.
I’ve never used 1000K but 500K is pretty thick and much thicker than 150K. There are diff lock lubes that are even thicker than 500K on the market that will stiffen the diff action up substantially but still allow some slippage.
The difference in reaction with 100K and 30K in a stock maxx diff with only 4 spider gears doesn’t show up as much as it would in say a 1/8th scale diff with 6 or 8 spiders. The more spiders the diff has, the less wt oil it takes to stiffen up and notice the reaction.
Other options are filling the cup with silly putty or plumber’s putty. Silly putty being the stiffer of the 2, but it wears out and looses its viscosity sooner than the plumbers putty.
I generally fill the diff cup with lube so that when I install the ring with the pinion no fluid overflows the cup. There needs to be a little room for expansion for when the fluid heats up or it will just be forced out of the cup through the seals.
Although they are “sealed” they all will seep some fluid past the pinion seals in time.
Unless the cup is half full/empty I doubt a little air space would be the issue
No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.
Thanks, I will try the 3 Screw Method Next and Then I may look into the Diff lock Lubes.
I found 2 dasy ago when I ran that the rear diff now appears to be acting just like the Non sealed ones were, I wonder if maybe Something happened to one of the seals when I filled it last I guess I will know for sure when I break it down and open it up.
I found a Sweet area about a 3 min walk from my house that has a pretty steep Hillside about 75 yeards wide and 50 yards tall that I was running on and it was the most fun I have had yet so I really do need to get the Diff things figured out especially for this area it is about perfect to where any steeper and it would be to steep.
I hope to get my HD video camera set up so I can record some of the action as soon as I do I will post links for sure.
T-Maxx 3.3 :)