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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stach35 View Post
    I think leave well enough alone - i didnt have to do it on mine!
    I think this is more not so good advice. Between my summit and 3 others that friends purchased they all needed adjusted.



    A buddy had one out of alignment this far!! IMO not worth risking for the 5-10mins it takes to check and adjust.


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  2. #82
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    ^^^ Agreed 100%.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by happymachinist View Post
    I think this is more not so good advice. Between my summit and 3 others that friends purchased they all needed adjusted.



    A buddy had one out of alignment this far!! IMO not worth risking for the 5-10mins it takes to check and adjust.


    Sent from my iPhone using autocorrect
    Okay, i will undo the screw that holds those two together and see if my alignment is off.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  4. #84
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    As far as alignment:
    The rear tires are supposed to point in a bit when looked at from the top.
    The front tires are supposed to point out a bit when looked at from the top.
    Both should point in or out the same on each side.

    To adjust, turn the turnbuckle... not to be confused with the push rod.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    As far as alignment:
    The rear tires are supposed to point in a bit when looked at from the top.
    The front tires are supposed to point out a bit when looked at from the top.
    Both should point in or out the same on each side.

    To adjust, turn the turnbuckle... not to be confused with the push rod.
    Okay, thank you

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  6. #86
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Just be sure to adjust the steering servos before you try to align the front. That servo saver cross bar needs to be perpendicular to the skid plate in order to have the same amount of steering left and right.
    It took some adjusting and modification to the links, but I did get my servos to be at 90 angles. I ended up needing to shave off a mm or two from the plastic ends so that the metal turnbuckle could thread in far enough. If you do this, be sure to remove the same amount from both ends... I used a drill to rotate the end with the turnbuckle (like a lathe) and a sharp utility knife.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  7. #87
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Just my opinion, but if the servos arent fighting each other at all and your getting full steering left to right I wouldnt stress alot about the steering servos. Like has been said, make sure the shift and lock servos dont buzz when using them, they do burn out easy. Ive never burned one but I adjusted mine so they arent really working that hard.

    Your rear wheels should point in just slightly. If they are straight ahead its fine too. You dont want them pointing out though. Pointing in is call "toe in" Pointing out is called "toe out" (at least thats what its called in the snowmobile world)
    I prefer to have my fronts at straight as possible. If not straight I prefer to have them pointed in just slightly. Pointing them in (toe in) will cause slightly lazier handling (only noticeable at speed), pointing out will case faster, twitchier handling at speed. When crawling im not sure that little bit of difference will be very noticeable.

    Nimh and Lipo batteries do NOT have memory effects. Then can be run and charged from any state. However, you should not run a nimh pack immediatly after charging and you should not charge it immediatly after running. It needs to cool down Before you run or charge it. A lipo can be charged and run immediately... no waiting. But, a lipo must be stored at approximately 3.8 volts per cell... not full, not empty. Thats very important if its going to sit for more than a few days.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    Just my opinion, but if the servos arent fighting each other at all and your getting full steering left to right I wouldnt stress alot about the steering servos. Like has been said, make sure the shift and lock servos dont buzz when using them, they do burn out easy. Ive never burned one but I adjusted mine so they arent really working that hard.

    Your rear wheels should point in just slightly. If they are straight ahead its fine too. You dont want them pointing out though. Pointing in is call "toe in" Pointing out is called "toe out" (at least thats what its called in the snowmobile world)
    I prefer to have my fronts at straight as possible. If not straight I prefer to have them pointed in just slightly. Pointing them in (toe in) will cause slightly lazier handling (only noticeable at speed), pointing out will case faster, twitchier handling at speed. When crawling im not sure that little bit of difference will be very noticeable.

    Nimh and Lipo batteries do NOT have memory effects. Then can be run and charged from any state. However, you should not run a nimh pack immediatly after charging and you should not charge it immediatly after running. It needs to cool down Before you run or charge it. A lipo can be charged and run immediately... no waiting. But, a lipo must be stored at approximately 3.8 volts per cell... not full, not empty. Thats very important if its going to sit for more than a few days.

    Man, thanks again pavement for your wisdom. The problem i see in the future is that my onyx charger does not have a depletion mode. When you say that i should keep my lipos around 3.8 volts per cell, should i just watch my digital read out on the onyx charger and unplug the battery when it reaches 3.8?
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  9. #89
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    Yes you should if you aren't going to use them for a while, I remember I was going to get that charger but there's no discharge setting

    Pavment surfer, how did you adjust each micro servo individually?
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  10. #90
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    The only way to adjust the micro servos is to use the servo horn spline and get it as close as possible. Just pop the screw out, carefully remove the complete assembly and rotate it one spline if necessary. Make sure you test that it still operates the locks or shifts completely after adjustment. Sometimes one spline is too much and they wont work correctly so you just have to put up with them buzzing. I believe the ball cup end of the actuation rods is also threaded so you can adjust them a bit that way too.

    his grace:
    You can either watch the read out or, some chargers have a voltage cut off setting OR MAH cut off setting for charging. Meaning the charger will stop at a specified voltage or MAH level. If your charger has this function you can set it to stop when the pack gets to around %60 of its capacity (generally around 3.8 volts per cell, but you can also measure it by MAH).
    So if you have a 5000mah pack you would run it down to the LVC on your charger then put approximately 3000mah back in and stop... that should be close to 3.8 vpc or %60 capacity, which is safe for storage.

  11. #91
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    Sounds just about as fun as shimming the diffs lol


    Edit: the micro servos seem perfectly fine although I still don't trust them, steering servos are definitely fighting each other