I have two mervs. One with a neu 1112 1/y which is way more than you would need and my other merv has a castle cm36 9000kv big block. With the best batteries that fit the car would cut out with anything more than 1/4 throttle . Needed to add a castle capacitor to run it.
With what you are trying I would be surprised if it moved at all and I would worry about ruining your batteries and esc
Maybe I'm just lucky. Of course I have no battery specs to go by so maybe I am hurting it, though it sure doesn't seem to be. My only logical reason is because I can never pull the trigger all the way back. I like it though. My motor never gets hot my esc doesn't either. If I want to wheelie, no prob. If I don't, we'll just don't pull that much. It's nice to have more on hand then you will ever need and for some strange reason it performs much better, as in run time and temp, on 6s over 4s. I have no clue why. Maybe 50 or Jimmie or AirMax could tell you. The big motor adds a lot of weight and I will not jump it again until the chassis brace is installed with (grr) the t bone I really dint want to install. When I use that calculator I always input a low voltage to compensate for draw. I notice I typically only pull the hammer 1/8-1/4 in and have a hard time with 1/2. Can't Waite to hear how yours turns out.
Modded to the Max
Drive it like its Hot
Probably because you are not pushing it. Only barely tapping into the power
Yeah that's what I'm thinking. There is no way to. Maybe if I locked it down to a rail. Even field grass doesn't slow it down but then again no chance of hitting full throttle, just too fast. I mean you probably could but you'd be stupid and taking that walk. The only time I have ever run it full throttle was when I set it up according to esc directions and held it for ten seconds until it turned itself off. It was so loud my neighbor knocked on the door to see if everything was alright. I didn't experience any pulsing and I set it up on 6s. I did how ever notice pulsing if I tried to straight hammer it with my 7780kv 540 on 2s in parralel. Even after tweaking the punch and other features on the esc I could only make it better and it didn't do it with my 6680kv 540.
Modded to the Max
Drive it like its Hot
What to you guys think of these wheels?
I remember from earlier that the tires allways separate from the rims.
I think these road rage tires will be pretty good, and the beadlock rims will keep them in place? beadlocks are like bulletproof right?
Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.
Ahh, ok. Good to hear Jimmie. Which tires do you recommend for my application? maybe some foam stuff?
another thing: i have steel axles going from the diffs to the wheels..
Should i buy this centre axle set?
What kind of diff oil do you recommend for my application?
I have more or less decided to buy 4 new diffs, and upgrade all of them with the Team Associated shims. 2 for the high power revo and 2 diffs for the original e-revo.
Last edited by Pirathore; 12-16-2012 at 06:43 AM.
youll need the diff pinion with those diff you bought unless youve got new pinions
I know, thanks for the reminder!
I am considering these?
i imagine that a weak point is slop in the original plastic bulkheads... ??!? that could lead too slop between diff pinion and outside of diff?! what is your opinion?
You'll still have to shim with those aluminum bulkhead, not just the ring gear side.
I'm using those bulkheads now and they've been great so far.
But it's also on throttle control, everybody drives differently.
I would like to try those. 9282 if you could find them!
Those 9282 diffs is unavailable, i dont think they are good for production yet.
I have bought a ****load of parts!
New lipo batteries "60c" 1800mah. that actually fits. I wish to believe that the c rating is correct, and i have gotten batteries from the same guy earlier that blew my mind... But its not likely... but i think they will perform good, they might be the most powerfull batteries for Traxxas 1/16.
So new lipos, aluminium bulkheads front and rear from HR racing.
New orginal diffs (3x)
New center gears in aluminium
New diff ring gear set
New center axles
New front alu shocktower (this might be a really stupid idea)
Much new stuff... and a stiff price... This project became way more expensive than i first imagined...
It sure adds up!
I think the trans gears are steel!