I am going to order a new servo for my truck today. and i was wondering how much power it should have to handle running only 1 servo?
will this be able to handle it?
And can i just cut the traxxas arm thats on the truck or do i have to buy a single servo arm? Trying to find one on norwegian stores but no luck yet. Does traxxas make 1? if they do whats the part number?
And last question. How much volt does the original esc give to the servo? the servo i linked says 12,6kg at 4,8v and 14,2kg at 6v...
Last edited by ksb51rl; 12-03-2012 at 11:32 AM. Reason: Link removed
Link dont work i se. But its a Bluebird BMS-660DMG Digital high-torque servo
The EVX2 ESC supplies 6 volts from the BEC... so the servo is running off 6 volts. The stock servos in a summit each product 125oz/in of torque so you want to make sure you buy a servo that has AT LEAST 250 oz/in of torque or you will be loosing capablility. There are MANY great servos out there in the $50 range that will do the job. Hitec 7955mg, the Futaba S9157, lots of options from Savox, I run a JR Z9100T in my ERBE and its an excellent servo.
IMO, the servo is not the place to cheap out on your build. There are lots of other places to save money but your servo is what steers the truck... it also has to work HARD in a summit. Buy a good servo that will last.
As for the single sided arm, you can absolutely cut the stock arm if you want to. Integy and GHracing both make a single sided arm in aluminum and I think its a worth while purchase. The stock plastic arm can flex with a single servo pushing on it. Keep in mind as well, youll need an aluminum servo horn... the cheap plastic ones that come with most servos wont cut it.
For what its worth, a futaba servo uses the exact same output spline as the traxxas servos, so you could simply bolt a futaba servo in using all the stock parts and it will fit and work fine.
I used a BMS 35A... and I am liking it so far.
BTW, if something you type comes up as asterisks (*) you need to use the "edit" button on the bottom of the post, which is available for up to an hour, to edit those asterisks out. These asterisks mean you triggered the word filter and are either using words that are not allowed or are discussing parts and/or sites that are not allowed.
Looks like Krall snuck in before my post. lol
Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.
jamann started out with a high-torque cheap servo for his single-servo conversion and then bought a Hitec. Ask him about it.
Alt-248 on the number pad = °
It's true,the not nameable servo I used
Did work had plenty of power.Titanium gears ....(I have my doubts about how good the quality of that is)lol
After using it for a while I thought it was good.It developed slop in the gears so the steering developed a 1/16 to a 1/8."
Slop side to side.annoying but not unusable.got a deal on a very slightly used hitec 7955tg.
It's faster,More accurate and turns sharper,turns lock to lock now never did before.The way I see it,its the difference between using a off brand butter knife,compared to a hitec scalpel.the difference is that big.they are not inexpensive granted but the performance reflects that.
Sent using lipo power
Mountains cant stop me
they have tried
Thanks for the good replies Looks like i will be going for a Hitec 7955 Not sure where to get the alu stearing arm or the alu servo horn but il figure it out
Found a Norwegian site that sells spotOn alu servo arms. But what sice do i need? they have from 1inch to 4inch...
Sorry for the stupid questions but i have done anything like this before
I use a Hitec servo in my erevo.
This is the servo horn I use...it must be a 24tooth servo horn for the hitec servo
and this is the servo arm I am using
If you look at the links I gave you in post #3 above you can see whats involved for the single servo...it may be of some guidance .
Rock n Rolla !