Hey guys im just about to buy my first new revo rolling chassis and put in my own electrics...
the parts i plan to get before i even run it are: skid plate,roll cage,billiet knuckles
my electrics will most likley be mamba monster combo 2200kv bit if i can afford it i will put a mamba monster xl2 in it and run 8s
just wondering what mods would you guys reccomend and or what parts should i stock up on?
MY USE... my backyard track (in construction atm) but will be jumped and probably stacked a couple of times :P no massive jumps or anything and they always have a landing ramp
MMM/2200 are plenty fast enough on 2x 2s if geared properly. running on 6s are totally a beast and might wanna consider doing the LS2 diff mod before running it on 6s. and also go with the summit axles (long ones).
humay has left the building, peace.
ohh yeah and i forgot to add i am also going to do the sway bar mod
You can always tap into the ESC and customise your settings such as punch, torque and throttle curve...gear appropriately and you should be OK if you are not heavy on the throttle and brake.
I ran 2/3s for about 4 months before I started having endless diff issues...but my driving style had also changed drastically as I began to bash bigger and gnarlier. I think that was the culprit for constant stripped diffs.
I've done the Losi mod and have never been happier .
Rock n Rolla !
Run 4s not 2-3's in parallel and that would be good to over 40 with the right gearing
Like everybody said, run 2 x 2S= 4S. The Mamba Monster comes wired and ready to go. My first RC was a 1/16 Erevo, and I was confused about the difference with running in series and parallel. I would get used to running 4S before upgrading to 6S. Plus you will break more parts running 6S. Try 4S and see if you like it, then if you want go to 6S. And use Summit Long Shafts, it will cost more but you will save in the long run.
selling my postie bike for some extra cash for the build (and also my motorised pushbike) so i might buy a couple of 4s batteries while im at it... do you fellas think the (gonna have to play with words a bit) tru enrgy 5000mah 4S 65~130C Lipo Pack will fit in the car?
also how much money would i be looking at to do the losi conversion? ( i will look at some of the losi threads)
and ****... after posting this thread my "rough racing" snapped a steering servo arm and bent a drive shaft all in the space of one pack (note: im only running this car on 7.4volt 3600mah ni-mh packs)
Last edited by zwebx; 12-12-2012 at 01:03 AM. Reason: No urls allowed apparently
craig.mitch316 have all the info on the LS2 mod. give him a PM
humay has left the building, peace.
I just got 2 differentials for $40 each:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=370709252056 This should be the first thing that you do. Run your stockers until they break, or take out the stocks now and sell them to help pay for the losi's. Keep your slipper set correctly too; I will admit that my rear diff. was probably killed because of my lack of attention to my slipper, Aluminum slipper pads are nice also. Don't do the aluminum axel carriers, go with Rpm. Keep an eye on your temperature and stay with appropriate gearing. I stay with platic skids and can get a full set for 1$ on fleabay. Aluminum bends and stays bent, and is very heavy. If you don't have tires yet do not get beadlocks, glue them. Beadlocks can not handle the power of these cars, especially on your proposed 8s. Speaking of which, I wouldn't do that. this car didn't like me when I ran on 6s. (Refer to my thread: up in flames) If you are just on a backyard track keep it on 4-5s or else you are going to be backflipping if you don't overheat first. The main thing to remember is that everyone on here has their own opinion, but you will know who the main guys are that give the best advice and tips. I almost always listen to them word for word. Welcome to the dark side.
Last edited by Money pit; 12-12-2012 at 01:37 AM. Reason: autocorrect miscommunication
I reject your reality and substitute my own!
i will probably buy the setup for 8s but not use it at its max (building the car so in the long term it may be cheaper) i mean as so later on if my friends get a better car i can always make mine competitive with theres
and lol a thread named up in flames is enough for me to understand
till i get my car in from usa.... i gotta hastle a couple of bike shops or hobby shops for a job
Here is another question i have for you guys... with the dual servo setup how do i go about wiring that up?
also, do you think i could make a rolling chassi with kershawdesigns for under $300 or maybe $400 with swaybar and http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aftershock-L.../370709252056? diff and other needed upgrades?
With the trx receiver it has two slots for the servos otherwise use a y connector but one good servo is better
with the stock chassis you will have to do some major moding, to run 2/4s
but at one time you could get a 4000 mAh 4s.
If run 2/3s in parallel that is only 11.1 v
running 2/2s in series is 14.8v
Last edited by 87 GN; 12-12-2012 at 07:49 PM.
Would you go flip my truck back over??
Ok zwebx that is what I am doing with my build. I believe you will come out cheaper verses buying new. But it is still expensive. you can PM and I will tell you the details. But finding a cheap ready to run roller is very hard to do. I finely had to offer people who's cars did not sell on fleebay after the auction ended and out of 20+ offers I got one for $300. And it needed a lot of minor repairs such as new a arms and push rods, body replacement and a jacked up ESC. I would recommend planning on spending $550 for a working car with radio and start there. I had to buy a radio but I had my eye on the Spektrum DX3R pro racing system for a while anyways.