i am looking at this kit
and i i am wondering if these will be ok for a slash 2wd for racing. i have heard of the shafts popping out of the cups and i am wondering if i am gonna have this problem. also i know it uses 2 set screws to hold them onto the output drives. i have heard of a erevo pin would fit through the kit so one pin holds the cup on. cause i hate the idea of 2 set screws holding the cup on. or is locktite just fine to hold the cup on. also does anybody know where to go to find replacement cups? cause i want to have a couple of spares just incase.
I have the strc which are almost identical. I think the 2 screws holding the cup is ok, they hold real tight. but the stock pin screw will fit if you wanted it to. I tried it and it worked but I put the double grub screw back in to see how well it holds up. I'm going to add some blue loctite to be safe but steel on steel should be fine if its tight.
well mip suggests using red locktite on the set screws which i am gonna do. and if i have to remove them i will just use a sodering iron to apply heat to them.
yeah but they cost 70 bucks. where i can get the mips for about 40 bucks. i like the looks of the shafts but the price is too much for me.
well all i am gonna be doing is racing on 2s lipo and possible bashing with a 2s lipo. possible some dune bashing
Have you considered the Slash 4x4 rears? No personal experience of metal shatfs but from what I read MIPS and STRC are the best on the bunch followed by Venon. Integy do some too but lets be honest Integy aren't popular
There's an outfit I've only just discovered called GPM Racing Products (HK based) that do some but I have no idea what they are like and the only place I can find to buy them is this hobby shop in Holland (translated page).
ive heard about the slash 4x4 rear axles and i did think of it for a while. but i desided to try the jato drive shaft mod cause i have a jato sitting around and i am gonna get cvd's for it so i stole the drive shafts of of it. in 1 night i blew 3 ot utdrives. but i think that was due to my slipper being too tight so i loosened it and i never had a problem since. im gonna go for the mip axles cause i cant see spenging the money for the traxxas ones for the slash. im getting the ones for the jato but thats it.
I run Tekno shafts on both my slashes.
as far as I can tell so far,they-er near indestructible.
They have been thru heck and back,never even a bearing failure, That's almost unheard of.
I guess when they do go,they'll self destruct.
Got another set ready just in-case,or when?
but are the teknos have to use their hubs cause i dont want to get rid of my rpm hubs and i dont want to have an odd ball bearing size unless they use stock traxxas bearings but i dont want to get rid of my hubs.
Yes they use two different size bearings,but you have more cast and camber adjustment,six in fact,and plus or mine es 0.5or1.5 degrees toe in or out.
They may not be for every one,but they work great for me. You can make adjustments in minutes,between races.
Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.
I ran them in 2010 and the white retainer ring on one side kept coming off, then at the track going over a set of small whoops one side came apart. I cant remember what broke, but parts only get one chance with me, so in the trash they went.
Last edited by Shaky17; 12-01-2012 at 01:47 PM.
Slash 4x4 MT
As far as them coming out of the pocket,if your running your shocks in the inner most hole of the control arm,they are indeed on the edge,but if everything else on your truck is tight they wont come out.
And that would only be with your suspension fully unloaded,(off the ground.)
I personally have never had a problem,that doesn't mean it cant happen.
But with all due respect,if you never want something to break,you need a different hobby.
The slash,in my opinion,is one of the best rc trucks out today.
But even if you bought the best of everything,sooner or later somethings got to give.
Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.