I wanted to adjust the trucks camber and toe in
It currently looks like this
I wanted to achieve something that won't roll over as easy so I did that.
My tires are hitting the front arms when turning .
Do I have the right idea though. My camber is as tight as possible and toe in as loose as possible. Does that create the effect I want. I know the toe in has to be tighten back up a bit but do I have the right idea?
Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL
The rear should be toed in a bit with the stock Slash arms. For camber -1.5° to -2° is what I generally run and I also toe the front wheels out about 1/16 of an inch.
For setting the toe, I just use a regular tape measure. I have the RPM toe gauge but never could figure out the relation of degrees to inches I just found it faster for myself to use a tape measure. I've found that it's best to set your toe by going off the chassis. It can be difficult at first but it can be done. I square up the front two wheels to the chassis making minor adjustments to each side until I get the same measurement from chassis to inside of my toe plates at the rear of the tire. Then I measure the over all width at the rear of my plates and at the front and if I get the same measurement, then I toe each side out 1/32 of an inch equaling 1/16th. I've tried doing the equal length of the turnbuckle type setup also, but have always found it to actually be a bit off on one side or the other. Example: I just built a Savage XS SS kit and built the tie rods and everything to spec and it was way off when I put on my toe wheel plates.
That's alot of negative camber if you crank them all the way in. You really should get a gauge. Or if you have a smart phone you can use a bubble level gauge app and it will get you pretty close. The RPM camber gauge is pretty inexpensive if you wanted to go that route.
I use the rpm camber gauge at negative 2 degrees and eyeball the toe-in.
In the top diagram, is that toe-in or camber you're trying to picture?
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