I FINALLY got home from a long week away. FIRST thing I did after dropping the kiddo off at day care was to tear into my Rally and get it all setup the way I want. As usual, im going to keep this thread updated as I continue to modify this car over time. I find it easier to keep all the info in one place so anyone seeing it can go back and see the progression of the build. For starters, heres how things went down today:
First, I started by pulling out all the stock electronics. The motor/ESC and RX came out easy:
I was surprised to see all the honey comb underneath the ESC and RX box... makes it hard to re-mount an aftermarket ESC without making your own mounting plate... but more on that later:
Now, the servo was NOT as easy to get out as any other traxxas vehicle ive ever worked on. The whole front of the car has to come apart and its not an easy task to get the servo saver re-installed on the new servo with the rest of the front clip in the way. Still, I really like how the servo is mounted. Its tight, low and out of the way:
I chose to go with a Novak SCT system with a 4.5 turn 550 size sensored motor. The motor feels excellent and looks great. Its not overly large... smaller than a castle 2400 but larger than the VXL by a little bit. The ESC is tiny... smaller than a VXL but apparently can handle this setup no problem:
Motor fits really nice in the chassis and once the RX box is moved it leaves lots of room for the ESC and large cap that comes attached to a Novak system:
Here you can see the custom mount plate I made to hold the ESC and Cap... wasent hard, is held down by 3 screws and is removable. Unfortunately, this type of plastic is not dyeable and looks crappy painted... but white is fine with me:
And with everything soldered, mounted and wires routed. I think it looks really clean:
I used the factory motor wire hold down for the motor wires and the sensor wire. Its clean. I used a single zip tie to hold the cap down on the mount plate:
Then I moved on to cutting and trimming my Focus body. Fits GREAT. I used the factory trim lines and I think its cut great for this chassis. I wish id moved it back maybe a few mm's on the posts but its not a big deal:
And finally, I threw on my Integy 17mm adapters (they are +6mm) and my buggy wheels/tires. The +6 adapters perfectly space the wheels under the body. Wheels are Ofna 1/8 buggy wheels and the tires are Duratrax Derringers. They are slightly larger than stock, but look good thanks to the shorter sidewall:
Comparison of these wheels/tires with the stockers:
Looks like you need to trim those wheel wells juuuuust a bit more. Can't wait to see her painted up.
Wow. Awesome build. Anxious to see that body painted up.
Hey pave, think there will be any issues fitting aftermarket servos in that tight spot? I really like the savox 0251, but its tall. Any issue with trimming the chassis to fit a taller servo? Tire/rim combo looks FIRE...
Edit, do you have a part number for the black 17mm adapters? Lookin on ebay and can only find orange green and silver...
Last edited by rag6; 11-05-2012 at 09:14 PM.
Ya can't polish fertilizer...
Yeah, wheel wells will need some tweaking once I get the body painted up and see how it all fits. I jsut fit the stock body back on with those new wheels and there are no fitment issues with that setup.
Rag6, I dont think there would be any issues fitting a TALLER servo (if by taller you mean from the bottom plate to the output gear). If by "taller" you mean thicker (side to side I guess) there COULD be an issue. Theres lots of room behind the servo, under the driveshaft but not alot of room on the upper and lower sides (below the drive shaft and between the servo and the chassis). Hope that explains things better. Its one of those questions that is hard to define... hehe.
The 17mm adapters are actually grey (or gunmetal). I had to order them as they were out of stock everywhere. I bought them for my E-Revo GT car not realizing they were actually for a slash, not an E-Revo. At the time I was mad... now im glad... I actually needed them.
I want to use some white on the body and dont have any. Im going to pick some up tomorrow and hopefully get to the paint tomorrow afternoon. Still not sure exactly what the design will be but im thinking about something similar to my last 1/16 rally body.
Last edited by pavmentsurfer; 11-05-2012 at 09:30 PM.
That is a very nice design and will look great on the focus.
By taller, I mean if you mount it in a pede 4x4, the servo will stand up taller than the stock one, about 10=15mm. From the pic you posted looks like there is some chassis ribbing that would have to be removed. That ribbing could be under the servo, and not in the way. I have not had a rally in my hands to see it that close yet... Its in your first pic. Looks like there is only about 5mm of room behind the 2075 before that first chassis rib behind it. Pic are worth at least 100 words in any situation lol
I will go to integys site and see if I can find the gunmetal + 6 offsets
Last edited by rag6; 11-05-2012 at 10:14 PM.
Ya can't polish fertilizer...
Yes Yes, I can see what your describing now. You can see in the next few pics where I have the Savox in there how much room is left. Its not alot... but there is a bit. How much bigger is the servo your looking at... it sounds HUGE... hehe.
looking good! subscribed
Pro-2 SCB, X-Maxx MM, UE SuperMaxx
Hmmm the specs on that motor you picked have me a bit confused?
4.5 Turn 5000kv motor? Only 2s LiPo? I would have thought the 6.5t 3400kv model for this vehicle? I have had an email in to them for a few days now waiting for a reply as I have also wanted to try a Sensored motor.
Contacted Tekin today, recommended to me for this vehicle was 6.5t 3400kv SC4x or the Pro4 3400kv or 4000kv both 3s Lipo compatible
The Tornado body looks sweet on the 1/16th ride! Man that is nice and low.
I like the looks of that wheel on the Duratrax tire.
Nice soldering job on the wires
Focus body is cool looking, clear is my favorite color....................................to put paint on LOL Can't wait to see that one finished up!
Don't mind me, I'll be asking a lot of questions.............I'm still learning and thanks for sharing and the help
Last edited by kwitty; 11-05-2012 at 11:36 PM.
I will have to measure when I get home. Just checked servo database . com and it says the savox 0251 is 40 mm tall and the 2075 is 55mm tall which is exactly about opposite of reality. Guessing the 2075 is about 10 mm shorter than the 0251.
Last edited by rag6; 11-05-2012 at 11:25 PM.
Ya can't polish fertilizer...
I was a little worried about the KV of the 4.5t motor as well but figured since its a 550 and ill only be running 2S, and since this motor is built and designed for a 4X4 SC truck on 2S it should be fine here. I ran it today on a mostly empty pack for about 15 minutes, hard running, and the motor was cool to the touch but it wasent blistering fast. Faster than the VXL (same gearings so it should be) but not crazy. Im going to gear it up a tooth tomorrow and see how that feels. I figured, might as well experiment with this thing a bit. Not to say anyone is wrong or anything, but we all seem to just default to the castle setups and the only decision we usually make is 3800 or 2400... I just wanted to try something different. seems to be working so far.
What I do know now after just a bit of running today, the sensored setup is SMOOTH... holy cow is it smooth.
I think a 'good' sensored motor with the right ESC to communicate with it will make for a pleasant driving and yet powerful set up. Just FYI, Tekin says fine on Castle MMP with their motor running censored, no word back yet from Novak but they do not list MMP as a recommended ESC with their motors.
Mind you I really love the value and dependability and performance that I have gotten from the Velineon's in the past and like the water proof offering in case I decide to make my Rally into and Ice Racer this year which is sounding like lots of fun with studded tires!
I will be curious to hear what you learn, I will pull the trigger on a 'sensored' motor in the near future as an experiment and learning exploration too. I would like to see just how smooth they can be. When asked about battery ratings for the motors I listed I was told 40c and above ratings as to not introduce any issues.
maybe the smoothness of the power makes it seem less powerful because it is more controlled??
I can speak a little to that. Running a Castle 1415 vs a LRP X12L 5.5T there was no question as to the winner in the power stats. Ounce for ounce, mm for mm, a sensorless motor is more powerful than a sensored motor because there is no "wasted" (non-power producing) space like the Hall sensor circuitry. That said, I was so impressed by the smoothness of the 550 sensored LRP motor that I soon bought my own to pair with a MMPro. Because you don't really need to go 80 mph everywhere and certainly not on most offroad tracks. The sensored combos drive so nice and so smooth, it's almost like a different suspension setup, especially in the corners. Drive one and you will understand.
Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-06-2012 at 12:31 AM.
Alt-248 on the number pad = °
I've run a sensor end motor off a Vxl and wasn't impressed. I also have run a number of sensored motors from an MMP and can say without question, the Novak does it better. It was Tom who turned me on to Novak when he visited here with one of his race trucks. I couldn't believe how much smoother it was than mine powered by an MMP with a sensored motor. The MMP isn't a bad choice, way better than. Vxl, but I think there is something to be said about a systems designed and intended for sensored use.
Nice build so far!
I am ordering my Rally tonight. I was browsing on Tower for Slash 4x4 parts and I saw STRC makes an aluminum electronics mounting plate. Maybe you want to take a look at it and go that route.
^^ That part is for the slash 4X4 I think. The mounting setup on this chassis is completely different. The plastic works fine for now. I need to order some of the same plastic but in black. That would look better.
Ive started the body paint. Heres how its going so far. Should have it finished tonight:
O ok, thought they were the same. I guess I will have to get the Outerwears, don't want all that junk in my chassis.
Pave, did you dust the inside with silver? Looks like it in pic #1?
The inside in those pics ^^ were pearl white. Which I backed in sprint white. It gave it a great, deep pearl effect. Heres the pics of the finished body. First fully painted Focus Rally I think... I hope. Hehe.
Heres the colors I used.
-Pearl white backed in sprint white for the nose
-Orange Rust with a coat of lame flake under it to bring out the sparkle (or whatever you want to call it)
-Outlaw black with a Matte clear top coat (goes on the outside of the body). Unfortunately its very hard to take a good pic of the matte black with a flash. So, ill get a pic tomorrow in the daylight that will hopefully show it better.
Took alot of coats to get it all down right. But the end result is great IMO...
Overall the lines are quite sharp, only one spot of unacceptable spray bleeding on one side. No big deal. I also didnt know how long the matte clear would take to fully dry and rubbed a bit of it on my jeans so there is one small spot on the back thats not perfect. I think what it needs is some window tint... ill maybe add that later on.
Last edited by pavmentsurfer; 11-06-2012 at 11:53 PM.
Needs some tint.
Love how the body looks though. Very nice.
(RAH)² (AH)³ + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA)² + (OOH)(LA)²
Nice. It looks like you need some racing stripes! Nice ride though!
Man that looks awesome. The tires match perfectly with that paint job to, all flows together.
R4lly GT8 | Backsl4sh | Sl4sh MT | Sl4sh | P4de
Very sweet paint up Pave and I noticed the 'satin black' finish and was wondering how you got to that! What is the product you used for it, just a regular top coat??
The orange flame flake separation is sweet, I like you angular lines you picked and the lettering matches the orange nicely, you coordinated well
Super sweet man, I am envious!
Thanks guys for the nice comments. Im pretty happy with it. Its given me some inspiration to do another one at some point and make some changes. Maybe ill do a stock rally body next when they come out with clear.
The matte coat is simply called "Matte Clear" from pactra. when you first spray it on it looks like you just screwed up and put on a gloss coat. But then it dries and turns matte. I did 2 coats and im not sure the 2nd made any difference. Its my first go with it and it works as described.
Your paint job looks great.
Jato 3.3, Revo .28 JL Max, Nitro Stampede 3.3
Man, what a sweet paint job you did. I'm digging the colors!
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pave as always top notch work the paint scheme really seem to work whell for the car especially the red in the body with the red on the tires . just one quick question do the front tires rub at all
Ummm... I must confess... I havent even had a chance to run it with those wheels on yet. I do think im going to have to trim a bit or off the body. BUT... I was in my shop last night and I think ive come to the conclusion that I really dont like the Focus body that much. If you run teh stock tires, you wont have to trim anything. But if you run the 17mm buggy wheels/tires you probably would. But I think I can run the buggy tires with the stock body and not trim anything.
I know it doestn sound like me, but the stock body just looks great IMO... especially with the grey wheels... Im very much thinking ill just shelf the focus body and run the stock body from now on. I have nothing to do this afternoon so ill probably get er out for a run FINALLY.
Very cool with the matte clearcoat. Been wanting to find that for years!
Ya can't polish fertilizer...
I finally got out and ran this baby today. I put the stock body back on and raised it up one hole. With the 17mm buggy wheels/tires I got a bit of rub but not where I expected. The front was completely dead on, no rub at all. But the rear sides, in front of the rear wheels, would flex when the car hit bumps and the trailing edge, right in front of the rear tires would get caught in the tires. Im sure trimming about 1cm would work fine. But... read on.
These duratrax tires get great traction on medium dirt surfaces. They look cool and dont balloon at all. BUT, they are terrible on pavement. They seem to be a very hard compound and get nearly zero traction. The car rolls onto its outside tires, starts to slide and the inside tries simply diffs out every time i try to corner. Im going to go back to the stock tires and see how they work on the same surface with this more power brushless setup. To be honest though, im not happy with the 17mm buggy setup for on/off road running.
The Novak setup is just plan sweet. Honestly, ive never driven anything this smooth before. I makes my last sensored setup (MMP/Trinity monster power) feel like an MMM setup. You can literally drive at a snails pace and it doesnt jitter or lurch at all. Smooth at butter. Im pretty much sold this type of setup for on road running that for sure. I geared it up to a 16t pinion and ran a full 2S pack, hard running with LOTS braking and acceleration. Temps were not even warm... literally, the motor was cool to the touch. Its pretty cold here right now, but theres little airflow under the body so I think this setup will run really cool. Im going to go up to an 18t pinion and see how that effects things. Im positive a 17t would be no problem on 2S and im pretty sure an 18t would be fine as well.
Just thought a little update might be helpful.
Just wanted to throw up a video to visualize A: Speeds with this setup on 2S with a 16t pinion and B: Just how smooth this novak system is. Have a look at the end of the video when im driving it slow, im doing that with one hand... actually I filmed the whole thing with one hand which is why the filming is terrible. But, at the end im driving that smoothly and slowly while steering all with one hand. This setup is SMOOTH like a babies backside.
Man I'm liking the sensor running. The speed on 2s was very impressive. I'd say 35mph? Might have to re think my motor esc combo choice. Must have long thumb's Pave. LOL...
*Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*
And this is with only a 16t pinion. Im going up to an 18t next as the motor is literally cool to the touch right now. Its undergeared quite a bit IMO.
So you'll be running 18/54?
*Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*
What did you do to keep the receiver up in the front, Thanks
Down to the ground with, Electric.
The mount holes to move the RX waterproof box are already moulded in the chassis... you just remove the RX box from where it is and screw it down up front. Easy.
And yes I EAT DIRT, ill be running 18/54. Should be no problem.
I just got back from a run with 18/54 and the buggy wheels/tires in the dirt. A baseball diamond and dirt road/parking lot. Man, this thing is FAST. Ran a full 2S pack at nearly WOT and even geared this way the motor JUST gets warm. I have to say though, this system must be yanking some serious amps from the pack as it drained it down to the Novaks exceptionally high LVC of 3.7 in about 14 minutes. I was blown away. That was a freshly charged pack to. The pack was warm, which ive only ever seen in my ERBE.
I do NOT like the buggy wheels/tires. The car rolls onto its outiside wheel really bad and, as it did on pavement, and the inside wheels just diff out. If you enter a corner too fast and get the car too sideways the wheels just bite into the surface and the car rolls.
Ive now switched back to the stock wheels and tires and did a speed run up and down my street with a fresh pack and my GPS under the hood. Geared 18/54 on 2s with stock tires and I got just a hair under 41mph. Again the motor was only warm to the touch and since the stock wheels are smaller than the buggy wheels im going to go up to 19/54, which is the largest pinion I have at the moment.