I have some uncertainties about setting the proper gear mesh. I stripped a gear a while back (after a "little" bump into curbing ) and after replacement, noticed that my motor mount plate showed some movement which was confirmed when I was able to actually move the motor by hand.
After some researching, I thought I properly followed the general recommendation of placing a strip of paper between the gears and firmly, but not overly firmly, set the gap and have a "proper" mesh. I thought I got it right, but ever since then, my Velineon has seem to run "hotter than normal" and the car generally sounds "off." The ESC does not seem to even be warm.
I now have a proper temp gun to get some better data than blistered fingers from touching a 150+ degree motor can; once I can find some alone-time with my Rally, that is.
But in the meantime, is there a specific, repeatable, and nearly foolproof method to set the proper mesh?
Sidebar: I presume an aluminum motor mount will help keep things squared up, so I'm looking onto a STRC / KingHeadz motor mount. From what I've read (and relying heavily on 1esotericguy's King Headz or STRC for LCG motor mount thread), either brand is a good upgrade. I'll lean towards the STRC as I'm heading towards blue metal bits for my bling. And if I go with an aluminum mount, will the stock cover go back into place without modification?
As always, I thank you in advance.
I set my gear mesh by feel. I usually push the motor/pinon in place until it stops against the spur, then pull back just a smidgen and lightly tighten the lock screw. Then I try to rock the spur gear and get a feel for the lash.
It should not be tight and should have a bit of play back and forth with out moving the pinion. You can hear it clank against the pinion, about 1-1.5mm.
Once I'm happy with it I lock down the set screw and recheck. I then spin the spur and the whole drive line should be nice and loose.
Be sure to spin the spur gear a few complete rotations as the lash will loosen and tighten over the circumference of the spur.
You want to get the best average lash overall and may have to loosen and reset the motor/pinon placement to achieve it.
It takes time to get the feel for it, but you will get it.
Yes, as far as I know all the Aluminum motor mounts should accept the OEM plastic cover. I know my Hot racing ones do.
Last edited by ViperZ; 04-23-2014 at 08:29 PM. Reason: Added text
The STRC also allows the cover to be placed.
Even though the transmission area is not totally sealed off, I'd like have the cover in place to keep as much crap out of there as possible. I just don't get how some cars have open tranny's and not get a stone or stringy debris jammed up in there wreaking havoc.
Yeah, I can't figure it out either on those units with out the sealed gears.. Some have reported issues, others not. I know I certainly would have issues with all the stuff I run my Ultimate through.
One other explanation is they are using Mod 1 gearing, as such isn't as susceptible to rocks.. Still you think it would pick one up from time to time, unless its a super clean clay track... I cant see open gear boxes being a good thing for bashing. But that is just IMHO....
METRIC VS. STANDARD:
>>1-module, referred to as “metric 32” is actually 25.4 pitch
>>0.8 is mathematically equivalent to 31.75 pitch, which is close enough to 32 pitch.
>>0.6 module, referred to as “metric 48,” is actually 42.3 pitch
>>0.4 module, referred to as “metric 64,” is actually 63.5 pitch
humay has left the building, peace.
Mod 1 means that 1 tooth is 1mm on the gear. So a 24T gear has a 24mm circumference.
Mod 1 can be useful if you want lower (more heavy) gearing ratios. It can handle more power due to the bigger teeth, but is slightly less efficient than 32P due to the slightly higher resistance.....that's my knowledge of Mod 1 hope it helps?
Like said above...
I thkni (pun intended) I has a headache now...but I'll bookmark this away for future reference.
But seriously, gents, many thanks for clearing that up. I kept seeing the reference and was unsure.
When I go to Spain this summer, I think I'll get a variety of metric measuring tapes (a hard metal ruler, a seamstress-style fabric tape and a retractable) as souvenirs - that way I'll be prepared!!
When I'm setting that gear mesh on 32p I do it by hand and make sure the gears can rock against each other just a bit.
With 48p gearing I usually use paper between the gears, but they also need to rock a bit.
My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...