Purchased a new Jconcepts body and am contemplating on whether or not to cut out front windshield and replace with screen door mesh? The last two bodies I have, I've done this. I have fans on both the ESC and motor so don't really know if I need to go thru the hassle. Guess I'm feeling a lil lazy. Skimming thru the gallery looks like only a small percentage of y'all are doing this?
I run a vented flotek, it definitely makes a difference in motor and esc temps
Sl4sh mmp2400 - savage flux hp XL - vorza flux hp
posts like this make me wonder how difficult it would be for a body manufacturer to just mold a scoop/flap you can choose to cut a hole and glue/screw the part in place...wait a sec, i may have a patent pending now, lol.
I'd be down too supradew!!!!
rc10T3, TT Sparrowhawk XXB, Slash 4x4, 1/16 Rally
The stock erevo and stampede bodies have a spot on the roof that could be cut open to allow airflow. I've toyed with opening them and attaching a shroud inside to direct air to the motor/esc.
ERBE, Summit, Sl4sh MT, P4de, 1/16 GD 4x4
Ive been wondering why they dont sell the bodies already cut out period. It would be a lot easier to punch them out in mass on a puch press than trimming them with lexan scissors or an exacto knife. I am working on a flotek body ATM, just finished trimming it out and puching mount holes today, havent painted it yet. I contemplated cutting holes but still undecided. Ive never noted and substantial difference running with the body on or off so whats the point. It may be different with a standard chassis but an LCG chassis sits so low that the ariflow coming under is more than adequate. The only thing I ever noted that added to the temp is a Jconcepts top cover. Keeps the dirt out but does a better job at keeping the heat in. The only benifit I can see of cutting out the rear holes is to reduce the sail effect and lift created on the body by equalizing the air pressure on the top and bottom, which Im pretty sure that by desgin thats what the holes are for on the flotek.
It adds a "customisation" / "pirsonalisation" feel. I don't regret it yet.
1/16 EREVO, 1/10 SUMMIT
You can always cut more out for customization Havent really seen anyone cut less out though.
Decided to not cut out windows and replace with mesh. Hopefully my temps will remain the same and the body will last longer by not altering its structural integrity? "Did those words come out of my mouth?"
as long as your motor temps dont get over 180* you shouldnt have any issues. my highest temp was 170 and that was after running 2 nickel 5000mah venoms back to back...keep in mind thats with a 12t pinion and 56t spur gearing but it was pushed hard as i could and my body had absolutely no vents. only cooling mod is a heatsink on the motor with no fan.
i believe this is the one i have, this is a stolen pic but looks like he used the same heatsink and modded it differently than i did. my way keeps more surface area but forces the wires to be re-routed.
on mine, i had to cut a few fins at the motor mount bolt location and remove the plastic end cap, then route the 3 wires away from the sharp fins...pulled them up and over, took the clip and moved it to the center driveshaft screw hole in the middle of the chassis and it worked out great. i feel routing the wiring away like this also allows air to move around under the motor where it didnt before. ill take a pic if requested, but my car is dirty and ghetto looking right now.
I just finished mine out, hope the photos worked.
Good deal, thanks for the input.