Twin rudder with two water lines.
Drawing one. (these look better in real life for some reason)
When I bring my boat out of the water there is no longer any water flow going though my boats components. If need be (to keep my boats components from heat soaking) I use these fans to return everything to an ambient temperature. With this set up; it takes about 45 seconds to return everything back to ambient.
At my world renown ReglarDude RC Boat Testing and Research Center (outside on my back patio); this is how I test or flush out my boats cooling system. I use plumbing puddy around the testers rudder hole to seal everything from leaks.
This is how I transport my boat. (I got the idea from you guyz)
High Tech RC Boat Retrieval System.
Depending on the water depth, outside temp, and if I'm by myself; I use the wadders or life vest. I'm a very good swimmer, but it doesn't hurt to take precautions.
I just wanted to show you guyz the bodies and bumpers I made for my E-Max. I made body adapters that allow me to use both E-Max and Slasher bodies. I like the Slasher Ford Raptor bodies, and the 1936 ford E-max bodies.
I made this body after my truck. (front bumper)
...and that's me...your friendly neighborhood ReglarDude. (not bad for a old guy hah?)
In closing, the only thing I know that I didn't include in this post is a list of tools that I used. I have a nice tool set up at my house, garage, and shed. One of my set ups is for sheet metal work. For example: a sheet metal break, sheet metal sheer, band saw, belt sander, and more. I used these (and other tools) to make my Spartan CC Cap Pack/ESC water cooled heat sinks. I doubt if most of you have these tools, so it would of been useless for me to give you a tool list. But that doesn't mean you can't make this cooling mod. It just means you'll have to use different tools. If you can't think of a way to make a particular part for what you're trying to do, ask me and I'll give you some low cost ideas.
With that all said, I hope all you guyz like my post, and that it helps you have more fun with your RC Stuff...and thanks for helping me out in the past.
P.S. I didn't give you any measurements; because depending on what rubber tube, ESC port, motor cooling jacket port, and rudder port sizes you use will determine how your water cooled heat sink measurements will need to work out. To determine what measurements I needed (I'm all stock); I used drill bits to see what size opening my ESC ports were (I think 1/8"). From there, I got brass square stock that the 1/8" (I think 1/8") tube would fit snuggly into. The rest of the water cooled sheet metal work is dependent on on the length and width of the CC Cap Pack and ESC used. I custom made everything, so everything would be neat and fit the way I personally wanted it too. Your taste and set up (may/may not) be different than mine, and therefor your measurements (may/may not) be different than mine. This is also true with the CC Cap Pack mounting plate as well.