i took my diff out to fill with some fluid. when i put it back together 3 screw part, its like its locked up. took back apart about a dozen times cant figure it out
like when i tighten the 3 screws, its like its jammed inside the diff
the plate has to be flush and the screws tightened evenly .
i snug them then hold one side and turn the gear tighten about 1/8 turn at a time .when it starts to bind back off 1/8 turn till it turns smoothly
Last edited by 50togo; 10-03-2012 at 07:01 PM.
i cant get the screws to even start to snug up. im gonna clean it all to make sure something didnt get in there
So are you saying there's a gap where one of the seals are? Or it's flush and it's just not getting snug, as if it's stripped?
make sure the spider gears are seated properly
no. i put it all back together. i can get the 3 screws tightend. but when i tighten them, the diff wont even turn inside. its like its locked up. is there a top dead center for the 3 inner gears or can they get out of line. i cant figure it out.
Once the gears are aligned correctly, it goes together like butter. Try spinning the shaft/gears as you screw them in, just to ensure that they are seated properly as you are tightening the screws. I've never had problems tightening those screws, but it shouldn't be too hard to correct once you reach that problem.
i think i got it. but when i tighten the outer 3 screws all the way in the diff is completly locked. after that i took to screws back about 1/4 turn then it spins but i can feel like the inside of the diff turned, like the spider gears.
so i put it all together and it feels like its binding a little. im at a loss here
if the spider gears are seated and the plates are flush you should be able to snug the bolts down
double check the spider gears then make sure the plates are flush and bearings are seated
Last edited by 50togo; 10-03-2012 at 07:42 PM.
when i snug the bolts down the diff is complety locked inside
so i got it i think. shoud you be able to feel the gears turning in there
I believe you should feel a little resistance, including the gears touching each other.
so i got it, i hope all is good. this is my first time doing any of this. so when i got it together i noticed that the halfshaft have a little wooble in them. not loose wooble. like unbalanced, im not sure if they always did that or if its new. is this a commom thing.
I'm not too sure what causes this, a worn bearing may contribute to some wobble, but I can't confirm that, it's just my guess at what it could be...
does your have wobble to. its just bugging me
The output shafts move a bit but shouldn't have a high spot
Last edited by 50togo; 10-03-2012 at 11:59 PM.
thanks everyone for all your help. ive messed with it for 6 hours now. its 1 in the morn. time to walk away and try again tomorow.
so im back and cant sleep cause this is bugging the crap out of me. ive been looking at shimming and everything here on that and know that is not the cause. its the 3 screws that hold the diff cup together. i cant screw them down far enough. when i screw them down that way they should be it all binds up. ive tore it apart a dozen times and cant figure it out. the rear diff went fine, its the front. any suggestions.
Pull it apart. Double check the seals,o rings on the output shafts, spider gears seated and plates are flush. About the only thing that could stop it
There is nothing wrong with your diffs. I just did 2 diffs for my project and both did what you describe. I've also had other in the past do it as well. Just sung them evenly and then back them out evenly until it isn't locked. They will be sealed even if they arn't as tight as you think they need to be to seal. In fact over tightening can cause a leak to. You'd be surprised at how "loose" some things are in a 1:1 car for them to seal properly.
Dye-no-mite Pow-er Go Fast, Wirrrrr Screeeech BOOM
thanks everyone for your help. i got it all back together. i ran it in the apartment and all seems fine. if the rain holds off tomorow ill run it outside and she how she does. i also put some stainles pushrods and some gh knucks. which i love. now im just waiting for my speed hawgs.
Glad to hear everything worked out! I actually just rebuilt both of my diffs this evening. Decided to put some oil in there for a change, went with 7K in the rear and 3K in the front. Only problem I have was seating the O-ring flush on the rim of the diff, it was tough and after some fidgeting with it, it stayed put very nicely, allowing me to continue on and finish the front diff. I ran it inside my house, on some tile and it seemed fine. Can't wait to take it outside tomorrow, and continue filming my next short movie! Stay tuned!
ill stay tuned. those diff can be fidgety. just hope i did it right and everything doesnt lock up on me.
Same here, I've never applied any oil to my diffs before. It's going to be an interesting experiment.
i can picture a 4 wheel lock up at full speed
i also did something silly when i put it back together which i liked. i have a full tbone set up and it adds weight and i have my springs preloaded pretty well and also put 70 weight in the shocks. but it still didnt feel right. so i added a little bit of diff oil in the shocks. and i like it. im goin to be able to take some preload off the springs.
Shock oil is more of a damping tool wont affect preload
it just made the shock oil thicker. the car feels less bouncy, not sure how to describe. takes more effort to push down on the chassis now then it did before. it was just a weird little experiment. ill se how it runs on the street. but it feels better playing around with it
In one merv I have 80wt in hr shock bodies and 100wt in my exotek shocks in my other
i had 70 front and rear but with stock shock bodies. and i went with some progressive springs. the setup was cherry before i put the full tbone setup. the combination of extra weight and lower clearance i havent been able to find the right spot on spring preload. but i like how the shocks feel with the extra dampining.