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Thread: Need Advice

  1. #1
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    Need Advice

    I have a p4de, but I have done quite a few upgrades and was looking for some advice...

    Here is what I have:
    Castle Sidewinder sct with 3800 kv motor running 13 or 15/54
    Tekno CVD front and rear
    Tekno center drive shaft
    Proline Trenchers on desperados
    Revo slipper w/ aluminum pads
    Aluminum motor mount - Traxxas
    Big bore shocks w/ VG racing HD shocks
    SPC 2S 5400 mah 50C Lipo
    And a few other goodies, but it all started when I got my Castle combo back from castle...

    Running only tekno in the rear, I quickly sheared two front CVDs, so I bought Tekno up front. Now I just rounded out a wheel hex, so I ordered the Tekno aluminum hexes.

    I run my slipper 1/4 backed out from fully tight (maybe this is too tight with the alum. pads?)

    Advice needed - Once i get my aluminum hexes, can I expect my drive train components to hold up now? or what else can break?

    Seems I have watched the carnage travel down the drive train and I am just wondering when it will stop?

    I know there are a lot of you out there with bigger and more powerful motors than my 3800, so what and/or how did you eliminate the carnage to the drivetrain?

    I love taking and tinkering on my truck, but I'd much prefer to drive it.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    With cvds and aluminum hex, you shoul be fine, make sure the wheels nuts are tight.

  3. #3
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    Yeah you should be golden now..

    If you want to be sure, you could CA glue the aluminum hexes into the wheels and loctite the wheel nuts on TIGHT (I use plyers and the tool included for tightening the wheels)
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  4. #4
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    Well after getting and installing the alum hexes I just was driving and the front wheel falls off. Turns out I rounded out another wheel. That is two in the past week. One using the plastic hexes. One using the new alum hexes.

    I am getting frustrated. I crank the wheel nuts on with a socket attached to a screwdriver handle so I know it's tighter than using the tool. May try a real socket handle.

    I am going to glue two of the plastic ones into my two half ruined wheels and see how that works.

    What are my other options? 17mm hexes and new rims and tires?

    I also can't quite figure out what caused this. It was one of two things: putting the alum slipper pads on or my Tekno front drive shafts on?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjtoed View Post
    I have a p4de, but I have done quite a few upgrades and was looking for some advice...

    Here is what I have:
    Castle Sidewinder sct with 3800 kv motor running 13 or 15/54
    Tekno CVD front and rear
    Tekno center drive shaft
    Proline Trenchers on desperados
    Revo slipper w/ aluminum pads
    Aluminum motor mount - Traxxas
    Big bore shocks w/ VG racing HD shocks
    SPC 2S 5400 mah 50C Lipo
    And a few other goodies, but it all started when I got my Castle combo back from castle...

    Running only tekno in the rear, I quickly sheared two front CVDs, so I bought Tekno up front. Now I just rounded out a wheel hex, so I ordered the Tekno aluminum hexes.

    I run my slipper 1/4 backed out from fully tight (maybe this is too tight with the alum. pads?)

    Advice needed - Once i get my aluminum hexes, can I expect my drive train components to hold up now? or what else can break?

    Seems I have watched the carnage travel down the drive train and I am just wondering when it will stop?

    I know there are a lot of you out there with bigger and more powerful motors than my 3800, so what and/or how did you eliminate the carnage to the drivetrain?

    I love taking and tinkering on my truck, but I'd much prefer to drive it.

    Thanks.



    RX8 on 4s, no problems with drivetrain to date. 17mm is the way to go with big tires like the Trenchers, if you go to smaller tires you'll have better luck with the 12mm hexes.



    This one survives just fine with the 12mm hexes and the MMP 3800 on 3s, I also have another with 30 series Badlands that has been fine with the Mamba Monster 2650 on 3s.

    My opinion is the Trenchers are to large a tire to use 12mm hexes running higher power systems.
    Last edited by Rastus; 09-30-2012 at 09:41 PM.

  6. #6
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    I've rounded out 4 sets of trenchers on my Slash 4x4 MT since I converted it (way before the Stampede 4x4 came out). I would look into getting a 3.2 RPM 17mm revolver wheel and dremel the outer sidewall to fit and stretch the 2.8 trenchers. I've ran this combo on my high powered 1/8 truggy and it has held up well even on 6s. I've also been waiting for the Tekno 17mm adaptors to come back in stock so I can run 17mm on my setup even with the smaller SC wheels.

    XO-1|SlashUE-MMM2200|Rally-SV2&MERV-MMP w/NEU1112

  7. #7
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    So stock talons are probably ok on 12 mm? I will just throw those back on until I decide what to do.

  8. #8
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Are you sure the wheel wasn't damaged prior to the installation of the aluminum hexes? I had no problem with wheels once I went to the aluminum with my Teknos. I did wind up changing out to 17mm hexes because I converted my 4s4MT back to SCT mode and I came into a wealth of slightly used 1:8 buggy wheels.

    I'll agree with this: The Trenchers have an amazing amount of grip. Of all the 1:10 AT tires that would cause major driveline destruction, those are near the top of the list.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  9. #9
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    Loosening the slipper is an easy way to save your hexes, but finding the right setting can be hard. You could mess with diff fluids as well, but like it was said above, Trenchers are too big and have too much grip for 12mm hex. Don't expect Proline to care, they get to sell a bunch more wheels and tires because of this.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Are you sure the wheel wasn't damaged prior to the installation of the aluminum hexes? I had no problem with wheels once I went to the aluminum with my Teknos. I did wind up changing out to 17mm hexes because I converted my 4s4MT back to SCT mode and I came into a wealth of slightly used 1:8 buggy wheels.

    I'll agree with this: The Trenchers have an amazing amount of grip. Of all the 1:10 AT tires that would cause major driveline destruction, those are near the top of the list.
    100 % positive the wheel I just rounded out was perfect.

    I think I will epoxy the plastic hexes into the desperados/trenchers and try to run that. It's that or go back to the talons.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I have the old pinned mips and just had the same problem as you so i used loctite power flex to glue yhe hexes in to my wheels and now they are mint
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    I have the old pinned mips and just had the same problem as you so i used loctite power flex to glue yhe hexes in to my wheels and now they are mint
    I just used gorilla glue epoxy and glued in my hexes. Will see how it holds.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjtoed View Post
    I have a p4de, but I have done quite a few upgrades and was looking for some advice...

    Here is what I have:
    Castle Sidewinder sct with 3800 kv motor running 13 or 15/54
    Tekno CVD front and rear
    Tekno center drive shaft
    Proline Trenchers on desperados
    Revo slipper w/ aluminum pads
    Aluminum motor mount - Traxxas
    Big bore shocks w/ VG racing HD shocks
    SPC 2S 5400 mah 50C Lipo
    And a few other goodies, but it all started when I got my Castle combo back from castle...

    Running only tekno in the rear, I quickly sheared two front CVDs, so I bought Tekno up front. Now I just rounded out a wheel hex, so I ordered the Tekno aluminum hexes.

    I run my slipper 1/4 backed out from fully tight (maybe this is too tight with the alum. pads?)

    Advice needed - Once i get my aluminum hexes, can I expect my drive train components to hold up now? or what else can break?

    Seems I have watched the carnage travel down the drive train and I am just wondering when it will stop?

    I know there are a lot of you out there with bigger and more powerful motors than my 3800, so what and/or how did you eliminate the carnage to the drivetrain?

    I love taking and tinkering on my truck, but I'd much prefer to drive it.

    Thanks.
    Your next step will be going to 17 mm hexes and long nuts on the adapters to keep them on even with loctite. That's where I would up to keep the wheels on and not stripping hexes.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROB311952 View Post
    Your next step will be going to 17 mm hexes and long nuts on the adapters to keep them on even with loctite. That's where I would up to keep the wheels on and not stripping hexes.
    This seems to be a plague around here lately! I took Rastus's advice just a couple of weeks ago and stepped up to the AKA 17mm adapters and 3.2 RPM Wide offset Stablemaxx wheels. My basher is one mean beast now!....I can finally Bash again and again with out breaking something....well, for now at least.
    When Boy When, Are You Gonna Get Your Act Together

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