Still a work in progress but nearing comlpetion.
Sorry for the crappy phone pics but Ill get decent ones later when its done.
Whats left of the slash are
Front and rear differenatials and housings filled 10K/5K respectively
Center differential gears, FLM housing filled 20k
Body mounts (prolines are hanging on the wall until I get a new body ready)
Traxxas aluminum shock towers (waiting for TRCE adjustable magnesium to be made)
Well that pretty much covers it for traxxas parts.
Velineon, that was short lived
Sidewinder SCT with 1410 motor....the ESC was short lived
MMP/2400 combo worked great, a little noisey and some cogging
MMM/2650 massive amounts of power but a lot of cogging and throttle goes from 0 to 20% no matter how you adjust the curves.
Tekin RX8/T8 2650 Just put it in and did some trial runs doing laps in my basement LOL
I think I have found home with this combo. Nice smooth accelertation that you can control and the curves will actually work on and compared to the Castle 2650 the noise is greatle reduced.
Nice! The trce towers will complete the package but the Traxxas ones look good with the blue shocks. Are running extended arms?
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
Pro-2 SCB, X-Maxx MM, UE SuperMaxx
Looks good, are those integny shock towers? Please keep us updated on pics
Yes its the extended kit from TRCE. Same specs at the proline protrac but made from magnesium with far more holes for options and any arm fits in any position. These also make short work of placing the rear shocks to the outside if desired as the holes are already there. Had the proline kit on it but kept having issues at the front hinge pins with the a arms breaking. The added stability this gives is awesome and gives about an inch increased trackwidth. To keep roar legal just have to run 0 offset wheels.
The shock towers are Traxxas but not for long. The shocks are SC10 shocks and work great, better than proline powerstrokes and far better than the traxxas bigbore.
Jason From TRCE emailed me today, they are about to cut some shock towers and should have those in a week or two.
Build parts so far
TRCE long arm kit
Tekno cvds front and rear
TLM center diff case
Savox 1258TG servo
Lunsford punisher titanium turnbuckles and hinge pins
Traxxas X-01 steering blocks
Proline performance steering package
Acer bearing kit
Robinson racing spur and pinion
Traxxas aluminum shock towers
Tekin RX8/T8 2650 combo
Futaba R614FF RX
Tonys screwz kit (way better hardened hardware that wont round out!)
RPM F&R bumpers
Tekno V3 mudguards
Proline beadlocks for protrac suspension
Proline Gladiators on it now M2. Worn down a little from trial runs on asphalt, they have nice traction/wear in the dirt but need a separate set for asphalt.
All differentials rebuilt and filled F/C/R 10k/30k/5k
Ive toyed with the receiver box trying the stampede receiver box on the bottom plate but it fits too tight with a motor/esc combo this large and made access to it a PITA for as much as I go screwing around with pulling the ESC wires to connect with a laptop and build profiles. It also doenst have enough room in it to bundle up excess wire and keep it inside instead of having it on the ourside flopping around. The most major reason of all it it places the RX directly next to the ESC increasing the risk of noise generated glitches. The top plate mount increases the distance by at least 3 fold. I will concede that the bottom plate mounted stampede box looks cleaner but sometimes we have to sacrifice looks for function.
have you thought of trying a slash 2wd box i might have an xtra one i can send you to try if you want you have a nice truck there . what for batt are you running in the truck . and is that a race rig for you or a nice basher
I tried the slash 2wd box still too tight, its actually larger than the the stampede box. The fact that Im running the T8 2650 motor and the RX8 doesnt excatly minumize space either. If I left a 550 can and a MMP it would fit, a bit tight but it will go in there. My problem is Im digging in the receiver box too much to get to the ESC throttle wires so I can connect with software. I wish someone would go to making an ESC with a built in USB port. The batteries Im running for the most part are Gens Ace 3s 5000mAh 40C. More than enough power and they fit this truck like a glove. Im racing and softcore bashing with it which really=no track close by so I have to do my trial runs and set up changes where I can. I have another slash 4x4 ultimate and slash 2wd for the hardcore bashing. Im actually thinking about turning the 2wd into an LCG with an Anza kit.
I put the full Anza kit on my Raptor and love it. I tried the slice and strc virst but didn't like them as much.
Pro-2 SCB, X-Maxx MM, UE SuperMaxx
Yeah I like the looks of the Anza chassis. Nice!
Ive been eyeballing the Anza.
I put the proline transmission in too. Love it with one exception, the idler is plastic. Take the metal idler out of the stock tranny and put it in the proline and waalah! Oil fill it and smooth as butter! One other plus is the area above the motor now has some access. I was able to trim down a castle fan and get it to fit. The 1410 and a MMP is whats bolted up in mine.
Great power, and yes its sensored (can be run sensorless if you want). It can run up to 6s but I dont see the need to go there (nor will the pack fit in my kit without some major mods). Im running 3s and its plenty fast enough. Speed calculator says 85mph on 3s and 23/50 gearing. I havent clocked it, GPS'd it or radared it. What I do know is it goes so darned fast that I back off the throttle well before I get out of radio range which with the Futaba 4Pks is around 1300ft and farther than I can still be able to see the car. I had the MMM/1512 2650 in it before this and it also was fast. My only problem with the Castle set up was lack of smoothness and more importantly lack of throttle control at lower RPMs. No matter how I set it up and what throttle curves I loaded on the ESC and the radio there was no easy starting. It was like 0-20%. Ease on the throttle very slowly and it would cross a threshold point then lurch forward. Its also A LOT quieter, no high pitch whining from the ESC and absolutely no cogging. As for cost, Amain lists the Castle MMM/1512 2650 and the Tekin RX8/T8 2650 at exactly the same price. Best deal I found though was at Stormer Hobbies, $50 less but they do charge a minimum of $7.95 for shipping ground. I bumped it up to second day air for $19.95 and still saved $30 over anywhere else. The Tekin is nice and smooth throughout the throttle range, ease on the throttle and it takes off nice and slow if you want it to and is nice and quiet. The only thing I can hear is the pinion/spur gears which isnt that loud either even though I have hardened steel on both, a little dry graphite for lube on the gears.
Edit: forgot to mention, No BEC needed for the RX8 and an upgraded servo. Both the MMP and MMM have a weak internal BEC and as soon as I added a Savox 1258TG to it every time I would apply steering the whole thing would black out and the esc would restart. Had to add a castle 10amp BEC to it for it to work, glitch buster made it to where it would still glitch like crazy and not have a black out but still not acceptable.
Last edited by JustinThyme; 10-01-2012 at 09:49 AM.
OK some updated pics that are actually decent instead of the camera phone.
Took these with my Canon 1D MKIV and 24-70 f2.8L lens. I run a side business, professional photography.
The only ting left before I am finished with this build is replacing the Traxxas aluminum shock towers with the TRCE adjustable towers that Im still waiting for. I have a Pro-Line Flo-Tek Ford F-150 Raptor body that I have all washed up and ready to paint but Im still comtemplating a paint scheme. Im quite proficient with an airbursh but having never painted detailed schemes in reverse I think Im going to go with a simple design until I get come clear transparacies to practice on. Its a bit of a different technique when you have to paint from the inside.
Last edited by JustinThyme; 10-09-2012 at 04:18 PM.
So jealous.... Looks fantastic!
One other thing I am going to try is the Hot Bodies DB big bore shocks. Hooked up the other day and found a set and they will be here some time this week. I like the SC10 Bigbores but hey, gotta try everything!
Also pulled the Savox servo, its too noisey for my tastes and went with a Hi-Tech High torque. Looks better and performs better and is much quieter.
Just put fresh rubber on too. Proline street fighters on renegade protrac beadlocks. They havent hit the pavement yet.
Last edited by JustinThyme; 10-09-2012 at 04:31 PM.
Hey, just noticed the velcro battery strap in your pic. Which one did you use? I might try velcro instead...
The velcro strap is off of a Losi battery tray, actually took both of them to stretch from end to end. I left the existing part in tact, used larger lock nuts, doubled over the strap and drilled a hole through it and placed it over the shaft. I then used a flat washer followed by rubber compression bushings then torqued the larger nuts down on the bushings compressing them so it spreads out the load instead of just the post and the nut holding it and keeps any sharp edges out of contact with the strap so it wont cut into it. Sorry for the crappy phone pic but i just went to my basement man cave and snapped and uploaded it real quick to show you the detail.
The stock TRCE hold down is awesome, just too much of a PITA to have to carry a tool for battery change outs. Im running primarily Gens Ace 3s 5000mAh 40C hardpacks and they fit in there like they were made for eachother.
Are your shocks stock SC10? I need some new ones for mine, is the RR spur/pinion noisy? i'm getting sick of eating spurs with dirt getting trapped, I may have to get an open design chassis.
looks great man! I like the rear mounted shock setup, and I like the way it makes the truck handle..plus it's more buggy like!
cycon...just get the ssc battery straps! they are only 15 bucks!
Last edited by SLW-SVT; 10-10-2012 at 03:31 AM.
Pro-2 SCB, X-Maxx MM, UE SuperMaxx
Superman don't need no seatbelt-Ali
2x SSC SL4x4
Awesome looking 4x4 and great pictures as well. Nice job.
Last edited by JustinThyme; 10-12-2012 at 05:13 PM.
Got some new goodies in today.
Integy set up station
FLM aluminum diff housings
Revo diff gears
Hot bodies D8 big bore stand offs
Second set of gray springs for D8 big bores
First impression of the D8 shocks left me less than impressed. I was liking the SC10s better.
I installed the D8 standoffs (shorter than the traxxas and made for the D8s) and put the rears back in front of the A Arms, gray springs all around, dropped the weight of the oil to 30wt stood the rears up a notch and after adjusting for droop and putting it on the set up station and finding out my eyeballing isnt as good as it used to be....They are working great. Im sure I will fiddle with the some more but for now they are working more like I expected.
Installed Aluminum diff housings with Erevo gears and found out that they are just a little different. The gears are all the same but the outdive shafts are not tapered down so I had to use the stock ones for that, have to check with Matt at Tekno to see of they make cups in that size.
New body is mostly painted, one last step of airbrushed faux carbon fiber to do then its done.
Still waiting on the TRCE shcok towers. They are running behind cutting them and once I have those in Im about all upgraded out. Looking for an Erevo roller to start on next but not having much luck. Either they dont want to sell just the roller or they think the roller is priced the same as gold.
Like your Slash! What droop are you aiming for F/R? Ride height F/R?
Thanks, I have to change my droop. I modified the upper mounts to increase the droop but I think I have to much now (22mm), especially for the indoor season. I will aim for 16 mm or maybe slightly less.
I like your welcro solution for the battery, I have the welcro mounted the same way but don`t have the nice fastening thing in the middle.
Finished proline flotek Ford Raptor Body.
Still undecided if Im going to put the headlight stickers on or not. Kinda like it without them.
Obligatory crappy phone pics.
Ill get some better ones later outside instead of on the breakfast nook table.
Looks decent but not totally happy with the outcome. Im a bit on the picky side and want perfection.
The Faux carbon fiber isnt quite as nice as I wanted. Learned from it though and know what to do next time to make it better.
The metal flake in the blue didnt lay right in a few places either. I know what caused that too, adhesion promotor so I wont be using that again either.
Beadlock rings are the stock proline black ones scuffed up and painted with the same paint as the body.
No comments on my crappy paint job?
Doesnt really matter anyhow. This was the shortest lived body in the history of RC.
First run on the asphalt its now trashed, less than 15 minutes of run time.
I hit a small jump and my bad for letting off the throttle too soon. Nose dived and cartwheeled at 30mph. The bumpers only got a little scratched up but it landed on the roof eventually and was spinning like a top. That scratched the roof a bit but not the bad part. Behind the right front fender the body cracked, not even a point of impact. I cant make heads of tails of why it did that, first body I have had that cracked. The scratches are just part of the game but Im a bit PO'd about the crack.
So you still think the D8's were a good buy then? Good for bashing you reckon?
The Jury is still out on the D8 shocks. They are working better after some fiddling with positions, springs and oil weight but Im honestly still liking the SC10 big bores better. They look cool and all but Im thinking they are just too much shock for this application. I dont think you would have to worry about bottoming out on jumps but the loss of control in the steering dept is whats bothering me. With the SC10s setup correctly body roll wasnt an issue even when cranking hard on the steering at high speeds. Worst it would do was spin around. With the D8s yesterday even after tweaking quite a bit I about rolled it and had to drop the throttle quick to set it back down. Im already 3 holes out from center on the A arms and at this point I dont think Im going to get good steering response and good reaction on jumps and bumps. Im going to continue to try though just because I can. If I had a race tomorrow I would put the SC10 bigbores back on.
Justin I noticed you had the tekno axles, do they work with the trce long arms? Just wanted to know before i spend 80 bucks on them
Ok thanks i might pick up some
well it looks like we're twins on the outside...my body def won't be as fancy as yours. I have the same beadlocks but they have calibers on them. How do you think the proline bodymounts will hold up? I just put them on too
Pro-2 SCB, X-Maxx MM, UE SuperMaxx
Well your body is still intact. Posted above how mine had the shortest life in RC history. It cracked right behind the right front wheel and spidered out. During the same run I managed to lose one of the caps for the proline mount, post screw and all but that was probably my fault. Must have not run the post screw in far enough. I thought it snapped off at first but its just plain gone! Had to order a new set of screw and caps but probably should have done that in the first place.
I picked up a desert rat body that looks like it will be easier to paint and my LHS had a good price on it (only body he had for a slash 4x4). The flotek ford has a lot of bumps and ridges and details that were a PITA to mask off, especially the rear. Several days of prep and painted most of it in a single afternoon. I was a bit PO'd after spending so much time on the body for it to be trashed in 15 minutes. The scratches are all part of the deal of actually running an RC but the crack really got to me. Nothing hit anything or even close to where it spidered out. I spent hours meticulously trimming the body for perfect lines all around.
So with extended arms, how wide is the truck from the outside of the front and left tires (in inches)? Thanks!
Nice looking Slash by the way! Sucks to hear about the body. I usually rattle can mine one or two colors because it is frustrating to spend so much effort/time on a body only to have it wasted away in a weekend at the races.
Formerly Wildjones before forum upgrade
The wheel track is increased by 1 inch over stock and the 0 offset wheels put it right back to the proper width as stock wheels have a 1/2" offset so its race legal. You can still run other wheels if you want, just have to watch your body mount so the body doesnt hit the wheels on max compression.
I dont mind taking the extra time painting as with the LCG and and long arms I dont roll it, havent in a very long time. The mishap I had was from letting off the throttle right at the peak of a jump and nose diving it which sent it into a cartwheel. First time I have done that in awhile too. I guess I just got Murphy's law on that one cause I guarantee that would not have happened if I had anything other than a brand new body with fresh airbrushed paint. Before that the only "wreck" Ive had over the past two years or so is when my 10 YO son thogught it would be funny to ambush me on a straight away and pull out right as I got close and going around 40mph and Tboned his truck. He got a stern talking to on that one and its also when his broken stuff started going on HIS tab, not mine.