Results 1 to 21 of 21
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    11

    upgrading the stampede

    assuming i want LOTS of power and no overheating on lipo's, what would be a good/the best brushless setup for the stampede 4x4? i have read about 1/8th scale motors on the stampede, but im not sure what i can use, or even what i should be looking for.

    should i run 2s or 3s lipo's? i know the 3s will be more powerful, but produce more heat and also not be compatable with some setups.

    what is the biggest battery that i can run in the stampede? would upgrading the chassis to the slash chassis help me get a bigger lipo? whats the best deal on lipo's and a charger?


    i have been doing some reading on here for the past couple days, but i just cant seem to put it all together as to which motor with what battery works.


    also, what upgrades should i get to handle the extra power? i figure driveshafts are a must, but again, im not sure what will fit. shocks (not sure what ones to get), swaybars, bearings, anything else?

    sorry about all the questions, i just got my taxes in and want to get the most out of my stampede 4x4.


    EDIT: keep in mind, I haven't actually received my brushed stampede yet, lol. I thought it would be better to get the less expensive model, since I planned on upgrading it anyways, why not save the $150 for a motor? I don't plan on spending x-maxx money on this all at once, but does anyone think its better to start with the vxl? i'll be upgrading the turnbuckles and chassis parts anyways, so I didn't see the need to get the vxl right off the bat.

    also, for the gearing, say I wanted to run 70+ mph occasionally with the vxl differential gearing, what motor would run cool while being able to pull the gearing required? I plan on running it on a lake for some speed runs.
    Last edited by Trevinator90; 02-10-2016 at 07:59 AM.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    460
    Best thing to do in my opinion is scroll down the page a ways and look for GeneralPede's "2650" thread and also his "My New Stampede" thread. Will sum everything up for you and will result in what I would call the best setup for temp control, adjustable speed and durability. Once again, my opinion, everybody has their own preferences but his results are impressive.

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    91
    Honestly there are no definitive answers as to the best of this or that. It's a lot to do with preference, driving style and driving environment.
    I'd recommend calling Castle Creations with your questions. I'm running a Mamba Monster X with 2,650kv Castle motor. This combo runs great on 3s and magnificent on 4s Lipo, up to 6s. My temps are based a lot on gearing and tires as well as the battery. Every upgrade adding torque and speed will significantly increase the number of weak points on the truck you've got. Bearings, mounts, wheel parts, cvds, steering, etc. They will all fail faster with power. My entire truck has been continually upgraded and I love the fact that it's insane and highly entertaining.

    I recommend Castle because they seem taylor made to fit with Traxxas. Their customer service is great and the products I bought have given me no issues and performed as promised.

    Things You'll Need For Sure

    - aluminum bearing adapter
    - cvds, I run MIP X-duty
    - battery extension kit to run 3s or 4s, I've cut tiny slots in chassis and use two velcro straps.
    - aluminum castor blocks
    - aluminum stub axles, axle carriers
    - rpm a arms all around
    - rpm shock towers
    - upgraded shocks. I've got aluminum, threaded in front and Losi 8ight on rear.
    - aluminum hex adapters or even 17mm hex adapter on wheels. You'll have issues with 12mm eventually with enough power.
    - batteries have been hit and miss for me. I run a few Venom, have had problems with them but they replace them super easy with no returning or waiting. Familiarize yourself with the battery compartment measurements and use that you buy your battery.

    Brushless you'll want at least 25c , higher discharge means better access to your power throughout the battery, basically it's better than one with lower discharge. Bigger the mah, milli amp hours, longer the life. I like 5000mah 50c 2s or 7500mah 25c 3s and 5000mah 50c 4s.

    I bought a Tenergy charger that works great. It is a $50 smart, balance charger capable up to 6s. Works awesome.

    Hope this helps a little. Not sure about the Slash Chassis, except then you would be upgrading your Slash and the P4de in it would suffer an identity crisis. Lol

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimdog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Iowa City, Iowa, USA
    Posts
    3,650
    I recommend a mamba monster 2 and 2650kv motor. Then get a battery expansion kit and run a 3s. I run this setup. Its complete overkill and tons of fun. On top of the already recommended upgrades I recommend new diff gears since the vxl uses a higher gear ratio and bigger shocks to deal with the extra weight. Also get the vxl tie rods.
    WOW! Look at those pieces fly!

  5. #5
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    91
    Yes on getting front and rear differential upgrade. Get the XO-1 diffs. They go right in. Also, unless you want to upgrade the slipper clutch, keep it tightened down all the way and use throttle control to protect the truck instead of a slipping slipper clutch. With insane revs your slipper will fry quickly.

  6. #6
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    176
    Quote Originally Posted by matt77tree View Post
    Honestly there are no definitive answers as to the best of this or that. It's a lot to do with preference, driving style and driving environment.
    I'd recommend calling Castle Creations with your questions. I'm running a Mamba Monster X with 2,650kv Castle motor. This combo runs great on 3s and magnificent on 4s Lipo, up to 6s. My temps are based a lot on gearing and tires as well as the battery. Every upgrade adding torque and speed will significantly increase the number of weak points on the truck you've got. Bearings, mounts, wheel parts, cvds, steering, etc. They will all fail faster with power. My entire truck has been continually upgraded and I love the fact that it's insane and highly entertaining.

    I recommend Castle because they seem taylor made to fit with Traxxas. Their customer service is great and the products I bought have given me no issues and performed as promised.

    Things You'll Need For Sure

    - aluminum bearing adapter
    - cvds, I run MIP X-duty
    - battery extension kit to run 3s or 4s, I've cut tiny slots in chassis and use two velcro straps.
    - aluminum castor blocks
    - aluminum stub axles, axle carriers
    - rpm a arms all around
    - rpm shock towers
    - upgraded shocks. I've got aluminum, threaded in front and Losi 8ight on rear.
    - aluminum hex adapters or even 17mm hex adapter on wheels. You'll have issues with 12mm eventually with enough power.
    - batteries have been hit and miss for me. I run a few Venom, have had problems with them but they replace them super easy with no returning or waiting. Familiarize yourself with the battery compartment measurements and use that you buy your battery.

    Brushless you'll want at least 25c , higher discharge means better access to your power throughout the battery, basically it's better than one with lower discharge. Bigger the mah, milli amp hours, longer the life. I like 5000mah 50c 2s or 7500mah 25c 3s and 5000mah 50c 4s.

    I bought a Tenergy charger that works great. It is a $50 smart, balance charger capable up to 6s. Works awesome.

    Hope this helps a little. Not sure about the Slash Chassis, except then you would be upgrading your Slash and the P4de in it would suffer an identity crisis. Lol
    I'll just share some of my experiences that contrast a bit from this list.

    You don't need aluminum castor blocks, stub axles or bearing carriers. You don't need RPM arms, shock towers or upgraded shocks. Hex size is questionable too. It depends on driving style a lot.

    To meet your goals you will need big power. 1/8 scale kit of your choosing (there are other manufacturers besides castle) and you will likely need upgraded driveshafts.

    I ran 3s relentlessly on my stock VXL stuff all summer and the driveshafts were the biggest stumbling block. My MIP Xduties have been great so far.

    I took the "fix it as it breaks" approach. A lot of what people said I needed were really wants.

    That being said, I'm on a slash chassis with most of the items on that list now. I'm not saying they're not worthwhile. I'm simply stating that they are not necessarily needed right off the bat.

    PS:

    I'm still on stock diffs and I run 3s and 4s all the time with my sidewinder 1/8 2200 combo.
    Chances make champions!

  7. #7
    RC Champion GeneralPede01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Toomsuba, Ms
    Posts
    1,264
    Like mentioned above if you want a 1/8 system and going with castle then the 2650 is a excellent choice. It's a blast on 3s and on 4s has more power than you'll ever need. It is 100mph capable if you want it too be. Their are other brands but I have no experience with them, if your going with castle id say pull the trigger on a 2650kv combo.
    Member of the triple digit club, 100mph p4de!!🏎

  8. #8
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    11
    would this be a good setup to get me started with for batteries and a charger?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Batt...0AAOSwX~dWjC0w

    assuming I can get this setup for $189?

  9. #9
    RC Champion GeneralPede01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Toomsuba, Ms
    Posts
    1,264
    Those batteries will not fit the stampede, their for a slash/revo/ x-maxx. If you want good quality batteries for a decent price check out smc or spc.
    Member of the triple digit club, 100mph p4de!!🏎

  10. #10
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    11
    ok, so it looks like i'll have to get the batteries and charger separate. not a big deal, but it appears that I will need to get a male traxxas connector for the new MM2 esc to use the traxxas plug style batteries.

    also, the tenergy charger doesn't look like it has a traxxas style plug.

    I saw one video showing that the chassis of the stampede needed to be ground down to fit the 2650kv castle in the truck, but it didn't look like it would allow the motor to go all the way down for smaller pinion gears, but im not sure. what all needs to be done to actually fit the motor in the truck?

  11. #11
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    11
    I think I will go with this battery when I upgrade to the brushless setup.

    http://spcracingbatteries.com/index....product_id=104

  12. #12
    RC Champion GeneralPede01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Toomsuba, Ms
    Posts
    1,264
    Here's a pic of my chassis, you have too cut the vxl mounting points off and some of your driveshaft tunnel.
    I run 17/54 gearing if you take driveshaft cover off you can go lower.
    Member of the triple digit club, 100mph p4de!!🏎

  13. #13
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    2,756
    Quote Originally Posted by Magstang1 View Post
    I'll just share some of my experiences that contrast a bit from this list.

    You don't need aluminum castor blocks, stub axles or bearing carriers. You don't need RPM arms, shock towers or upgraded shocks. Hex size is questionable too. It depends on driving style a lot.

    To meet your goals you will need big power. 1/8 scale kit of your choosing (there are other manufacturers besides castle) and you will likely need upgraded driveshafts.

    I ran 3s relentlessly on my stock VXL stuff all summer and the driveshafts were the biggest stumbling block. My MIP Xduties have been great so far.

    I took the "fix it as it breaks" approach. A lot of what people said I needed were really wants.

    That being said, I'm on a slash chassis with most of the items on that list now. I'm not saying they're not worthwhile. I'm simply stating that they are not necessarily needed right off the bat.

    PS:

    I'm still on stock diffs and I run 3s and 4s all the time with my sidewinder 1/8 2200 combo.
    Well said my friend well said
    Honestly rpm arms are worthless with an 1/8 scale setup IMO. They start to sag after awhile. I probably have enough rpm arms in my parts bin to build 4 trucks. All I use now is stock arms after I boil them.
    When I started out I fell for the "needed upgrades" for high power system. When I put high power setups in my sons trucks I left stock diffs in them and stock carriers on one. The other came with aluminum.

  14. #14
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    11
    so, I just ordered a TON of parts for the stampede. pictures will be posted when they arrive and I get them laid out on the bench and after they are installed.

  15. #15
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    45
    You can buy adapter plugs for anything you've got that doesn't match up. I have a Horizon Hobby Dynamite dual charger and it comes with several different adapters along with balance boards. I bought an extra Traxxas plug for 6 bucks so I can dual charge two traxxas batteries simultaneously but it will charge any battery with up to 6.0 amps for max current.

    http://www.rcsuperstore.com/Dynamite...shoppingengine

  16. #16
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    11
    this is going to be by FAR the fastest rc I have ever owned! I ordered the Mamba Monster 2 ESC with the 2650kv motor combo, along with two SPC soft pack 11.2V 3S 8200mah batteries, and I don't even have the truck at my house yet! LOL, the actual truck will be here tomorrow.

    I have no intentions of running them in series though, since I don't want to hurt the ESC or motor.

    i also ordered a 19 and a 22 tooth pinion for the 5mm shaft on the 2650 since i will be running the brushed gearing for a while.(im not sure if i should be gearing lower than this?)

    should i plan on upgrading my drive shafts immediately to run the 2650? right now, it will be getting used in snow, so i don't think it will be too stressful on the shafts.

    this is the charger i ordered
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/401059349972...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    i also ordered the dual charging adapter for it so i can charge both batteries at the same time.

  17. #17
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    176
    I would plan on driveshafts.

    Every time your tires start spinning in the snow and dig down to the ground you put a huge shock load on the driveshafts. Driving in snow more than an inch or two is all about wheel speed and momentum. I kill batteries faster in snow than anywhere else. You just can't be easy on the truck if you want to go anywhere.

    I have the sidewinder 8 2200 combo. I started on 18/54 for summer bashing and bumped to 20/54. When I wanted to start doing speed runs primarily in the street I bumped to 22/54 and 22/50. I just bought a 25 pinion, that will be next.

    I would say 20/54 was plenty on 3s for bashing.

    You won't hurt your motor or esc if you run those batteries in series. You are good for up to 6s with a mamba monster. Just watch the heat.
    Chances make champions!

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimdog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Iowa City, Iowa, USA
    Posts
    3,650
    The 2650 and 6s don't go together. It's a great motor on 3s though.
    WOW! Look at those pieces fly!

  19. #19
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    2,756
    The 2650 and 6s don't go together. It's a great motor on 3s though.
    Agree. It can run it but not recommended for full time bashing. On 6s that is

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    719
    Quote Originally Posted by matt77tree View Post
    Also, unless you want to upgrade the slipper clutch, keep it tightened down all the way and use throttle control to protect the truck instead of a slipping slipper clutch. With insane revs your slipper will fry quickly.
    Are you talking about the revo clutch upgrade? Does tightening the slipper apply to the revo slipper if I go with 2650kv motor?

    Quote Originally Posted by GeneralPede01 View Post
    Here's a pic of my chassis, you have too cut the vxl mounting points off and some of your driveshaft tunnel.
    I run 17/54 gearing if you take driveshaft cover off you can go lower.
    Why does the tunnel need to be cut, isn't that on back end of motor can, whats on back end that needs that clearance? If you shave off everything does that get rid any mounting holes for screws? Do you make new holes for ESC mounting?

    Also do you have your slipper tightened all the way as suggested?
    Last edited by Briber; Yesterday at 10:42 PM.
    Stampede Shredder

  21. #21
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    91
    I got the revo yes, a two part combo. Parts #5351 & 5352x

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •