Just one day left... Hopefully I get some stickers with my chassis...
Last edited by Beholder_74; 11-11-2012 at 05:44 PM.
I think i would try with standard bearing and if he won't hold i will rebore to 19mm (diameter) and 5mm deep the motor mount with a cnc milling for accept bigger bearing 10x19x5mm or i will ask to Steve at STRC to make a special motor mount for me
Stampede 4x4 1415 1Y 2400kv, 4S 5200 30C
id like stickers too please, from everything im reading on this, ill be proud to represent.
cant wait for my green/green to come in. any closer eta yet? i mean other than "shipping starts after thanksgiving". im too impatient, lol.
My old motor sponsor East Coast Motors from back in the past who had drivers will tons of National titles said he never had a motor bearing go bad in any motor which had factory grease in them. Now he did have bearings go bad that where sprayed out before but never had a non sprayed bearing fail. I been using that info for over 15 years or more now and never have bearing issues. Even our 3 year old stock Slash rental truck has never had a bearing replaced but it does get torn down and bearings inspected and wiped off. Crunchy ones get replaced and its never blown a bearing. It gets beat to death for hours in a practice night and never a bearing issue.
Guys spends hundreds of dollars on stuff and complain about a cheap bearing. A little care will keep you from ever having bearing failure. If you run in nasty sandy type dirt then expect more wiping off of bearings and checking them. Also expect to change out a few crunchy ones more often. No matter how big the bearing or small they will get crunchy so just change it and run with no failures.
If you feel the need to clean your bearings then you need to remove the seals on both sides of the bearing and soak them in motor cleaner or parts cleaner. Wipe dry after sitting. If crunchy then throw out. If good then pack the bearing in a heavier type grease and put all the seals back in and then test bearing again to see if crunchy (it will be a little stiff from the new thick grease but thats ok) if not crunchy your ready to reinstall the bearing.
I have also have some grommet edging that I am going to run along the sides to see if it will help also (https://igate.springfieldelectric.co...ening.Hardware)
We shall see in about 2 weeks or so.
Don't forget guys today is the last day to order and get the customized color for your LCG chassis. Don't miss out on this deal so you can get more of a limited edition setup. It will surely add some serious bling to your Slash 4x4 as well as performance. They are going to look as good as they perform.
Prices are not significantly different between the 10X15 and the 10X19. Evan a miniscule difference would add up to noticeable savings for Traxxas making millions (or however many they make) of these cars. So there is a reason for Traxxas to use the smaller bearing. But the cost difference to each end user is nil. And the cost to the aftermarket manufacturer to make the hole bigger is probably also insignificant.
I just saw this in a discussion on the 1/10th rally forum. Seems I'm not the only one to think the bigger bearing lasts longer:
Last edited by ta_man; 11-12-2012 at 02:19 PM.
I do understand about the bearing size. In the end I think it is up to each individual person to pick they R/C parts on their needs as that is why we have different parts to choose from and yes even LCG chassis setups. For those that have had issues in the past I can see why they are worried and for those that don't I can see that side to.
ta_man I can see you probably are not racing at Family Hobbies in Vineland as Ron would never let guys out on a wet track as that would mess up his pristine track that he has had for I think 26 years not. He is super funny about the track getting too tore up.
What is the RTR weight of the STRC setup?
w t f guys, can you take your bearing debate and make a new thread topic please? topic is " STRC LCG Chassis for SLash 4x4!"
not- "hey, while youre building a chassis you should make it use bigger bearings" and not shut up size being the ONLY problem, not the fact that you run in sand. sorry to sound rude, but we're going on 2 pages with this now....just keep cleaning the dirt out, replace your $1 bearing when it goes out. by the time you spend money modding to use the bigger bearing id imagine you could have 20-30 (or more) new stock sized bearings that should last you a good while as long as the dirt is kept out.
Last edited by supradrew; 11-13-2012 at 09:11 AM.
I just talked with Steve. All the chassis's are at factory getting anodized.
My truck race ready was right at 6lbs even with all standard sized servo, futaba receiver, Castle 3800 motor and MMP esc. That also includes aluminum shock towers I have on and the aluminum steering rack.
I can easily get under 6lbs with a body change to a Flo Tek over my stock pre painted Traxxas body if I felt the need to save weight but I don't think weight is much of an issue as I have more motor than I need 90% of the time and my drive train is as free as my TC4 touring car so I think its good to go and right in the ball part with most others I have checked weight wise.
Last edited by wyd10; 11-13-2012 at 10:48 AM.
As soon as I get my snowmobile together I'm going to finish my LCG 2wd, then my STRC 4x4 LCG, and finally my FLM Emaxx, and Then I have to work on my bank account.
For those that didn't preorder the LCG chassis the standard two colors will be black and blue. These where the two most popular preorder colors so Steve went with the top two majority colors as the standard chassis's he will keep in stock.
Honestly its too tough to keep lots of colors in stock as you need to keep a lot of extra inventory that sometimes just sits for a long time making it money that could be spent on more parts that sell better or on a new up and coming product line. Which we all like seeing new parts coming out from STRC.
Not Slash related but here is one of my other R/C cars that I used a lot of STRC components on. Its my HPI Crawler King. I don't just use STRC parts on my race stuff but my play stuff as well. I was buying and using his hopup parts before I ever started racing and testing his products. At that time I found that STRC had some of the best priced and best quality aluminum parts so I just kept buying them. I hope next to buy and add STRC parts to the Tamiya CR-01 crawler or possibly the new Axial SCX10 Jeep that just came out. I don't compete with my crawler as it is just for fun only. Just wanted you guys to see one of my other toys to see I like many different types or R/C cars/trucks and how I keep my equipment looking.
Time is going fast. Not too much longer and Steve will have the chassis's back from the anodizer and then it means he will be shipping them out. Once Thanksgiving is over it won't be long then.
does anybody know if all the factory arms and suspension will work with this chassis?
Your using the same bulkheads.
yes, the factory suspension will work. and the chassis kit shouldnt need anything extra to make it work.
remove parts, install/assemble new setup...while youre at it, clean, lube, replace worn parts. i already bought my stainless screw kit from ebay to go along with the new chassis. ill get a new front bumper "skid plate" part and maybe a few bearings i havnt replaced yet. while i was browsing strc i bought their aluminum steering kit. i plan on getting their shock towers eventually...i just wish they would offer custom colors for an additional fee. i got the green/green chassis and i want everything to match. once i see what the actual green looks like i start getting more metal parts to match.
Stainless and aluminum don't mix well,I use a galvanic lube when I put stainless in aluminum
Sent from my Galaxy Note
thank you for the tip. but, im a little confused about it...im buying stainless specifically because of the aluminum. my local track is usually moist and ive seen some of my screws start to build up rust here and there.
i work on semi truck and trailers for a living and ive seen the kinds of corrosion that aluminum and rusty steel hardware can make...its not even funny sometimes, i mean we've replaced certain components worth thousands of dollars just because of seized hardware where they should have used stainless...(atleast according to the manufacturer)
so, obviously thats not rc car racing, but everything can be scaled up or down...and if it happens in 1:1 then i dont see why it wouldnt in 1:10.
ill look into the lube you mentioned but i planned on using light duty loctite, not only does it glue the hardware in place, it seals all the bad stuff out at the same time.
edit...sorry if im perceived as an *** by proving you wrong, its not my intent...just facts for anyone interested.
google search results for "hardware to use in aluminum"
first link found is an aluminum boat topic and 3 posts into it say stainless only...and the same story with the 4th link down as well. if you can back up the claim "aluminum + stainless = bad" please post the results so we know why
Last edited by supradrew; 11-17-2012 at 10:07 PM.
- SPECTRUM DX2S
- Slash Platinum
- Savöx Digital Servo 1258TG
- Blue Losi springs
- STRC CNC Machined Aluminum 12mm Hex Adapter (4 pcs) Blue
- STRC CNC Machined Aluminum Multi-Piece Steering Bellcrank set (blue)
- STRC CNC Machined Alum. Center Drive Shaft front hub (Blue)
- RPM Shock Shaft Guards (black)
- RPM Modified Front Bumper (black)
- RPM Front & Rear Shock Towers (black)
- RPM Nerf Bars (black)
- RPM Long Rod Ends (black)
- RPM Front and Rear A-arms (black)
- Small stainless screws (silver)
- Custom made rear bumper
- Proline Streetfighter/HPI wheels
- Proline Beetle Body (Tamiya metallic blue/gunmetal)
- STRC LCG custom (blue) CANT WAIT!!!
- STRCCNC Alum. 1 x Internal Diff Cups for Slash 4x4/Revo/Slayer (Blue)
... new RPM Front Bumper (black)
... Mo money
Last edited by Beholder_74; 11-17-2012 at 11:30 PM.
18-8 Stainless steel has no reaction with aluminum. Make sure that your screws are 18-8 type material
Seems like it is mostly for marine people, I use to work off shore and stainless steel bolts in aluminum was always a bad deal unless we used some non seize grease. but it seems as long as you stay dry there should be no corrosion or sticking, I'll but a small bit or light loctite or thread grease on mine anyway. Or I may not even use stainless screws I have the RC Screwz set and they strip really easy, I like the stock black hardware better anyway.
I'm putting my STRC shocks together and re oiling my diffs, can't wait for this chassis, So glad I never went with the Rally LCG seems like guys are busting bulkheads.
good little tid bit. the corrosion factor probably wont apply very much as long as youre not running outdoors through puddles or by an ocean beach...but i just spent 100+... and another 18 for all new hardware isnt a big deal for me, i would have spent the money regardless, the stainless upgrade was just a precautionary measure.
im getting all giggity, just bought a new motor and esc from some cheap website that ends with z. 120a esc and 4800kv sensored motor, hoping itll do well on 2s lipo (also ordered with a new 4-row charger) and 5000mah nimh cells i already have.
now mentioning it, i have a question though...this particular brand has some motors with a "T" rating like 3.5t but this motor actually says 2d under the "turns rating" specs. anyone know what "D" is?
wyd, does the 30th or 1st seem like a lost hope to get a box at my door step?
Did you guys go with ups or usps shipping?
Rally GT8 4x4 in progress.