So let me preface this by saying that this Tmaxx will be driven very little at all.. Wanted to make something that has no weak links and looks amazing....
So far I put in a Savox steering servo, 17mm hex hubs and Hpi Phatline tires on blast wheels.. Also added red aluminum chassis braces...
I have a spare $100 right now that I'm spending at the hobby shop tomorrow... They don't have the traxxas big bore shocks in stock and I want to upgrade some stuff...
What would eliminate a weak link or two for said $100?? Or make it more visually stimulating?? LOL
Thanks for the advice in advance.....
you want aluminum bulkheads, and skidplates. or you can get an aluminum chassis and bulkheads. Either way, you'll want to change out your bulkheads.
The chassis is aluminum. Do you mean chassis braces? He has them. I wouldn't do alum skidplates. You need something to take the shock from impact. alum will just transfer the shock to the next weekest link. Bulk heads I would agree. Or you can get this, but you need another $80 to get 2
But I do not agree with using aluminum skids, the skids get smacked more than any other part of the truck... Aluminum is strong but is has not flexability like plastic does. Plastic can help absorb impacts, aluminum will only transfer that force to the screws and the bulks with every smack they take... Look at any used TMAXX and look at the skids, they will show scratches and gouges from the impacts they deal with...
For skids, RPM makes Wear plates, they go over the stock skids to add some strength, rigidity to the chassis braces, and they absorb the forces of impacts.....
Quality aluminum structural parts I would recommend are:
Unlimited Engineering (most likely will be used but top notch)
Dace Mfg (same as UE above)
Hardcore Racing or HCR
Fastlane Machine or FLM
Great Assembly or GA
These all make their parts by machining them from a solid piece of billet aluminum. Integy, RDLogics takes solid aluminum and pours them into castings by the hundreds, then they use a CNC mill to clean them up and make them look like they were CNC'd from solid billet...
Cast parts will not be consistent in strength, the metal is not a dense as when it was in billet form making it more capable of not being the strength you want.....
You can spend literally thousands of dollars on TMAXX hop ups... Don't believe me? Read my sig. I could recommend you parts enough to put you into hock! lol
But oh so much fun!!!!
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United We Stand, Divided We Fall
Yeah I was planning on going with FLM shock towers.. Might do the Traxxas bulk heads.. Definitely RPM skid plates and suspension arms.. If I do aluminum arms they will most likely be FLM... I'm not a fan of anything Integy... Nothing at all.... Answer me this.... Would any of you recommend using a savox servo with a response time of .07, can't remember the model number, as a replacement for the throttle/brake servo??? Is that too fast?? does the speed for the steering and brake servo matter? Would you not replace it at all??
i would be fine with 2075 servo as a throttle/brake thats enough to do the job and for the savox this one will do just fine its as close as having 2x 2075 steering servos.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Savox-SC-025...item43b2bb529c
humay has left the building, peace.
Has anyone ever tried anything from RC Raven??? They seem to have some reasonably priced aluminum hop ups... That's where my chassis braces came from... They seem nice and well made.... Any opinions or further info on that company would be appreciated...!!!
i run a Savox 1283SG in mine (416/.13) and a mate runs the 1256TG (277/.15)
Both a great for steering, and we both use the 2075 for brake/throttle which is sufficient enough for bashing. The 2075 is cheap enough to just replace IF it ever breaks/wearsout as the b/t servo.
I couldnt speak more highly enough of RPM everything.
RPM a-arms (and tru-track rears, basher 100% just put em on and forget about replacing broken rear toe links and setting your toe in/out)
RPM shock towers
RPM Skid plates
The traxxas two-stage filter does a good job, but the Motor Saver filter is just that much better.
me n my mate both run the MS filter with the outer saver mesh.. pretty much a 4-stage filter.
Tank after tank after tank.. pretty much go for a few sessions before i even clean the filter.
Where as the stock traxxas setup has an exposed foam filter that just attracts all the dirt and easily gets stuck to it.
RX 5cell battery pack. Stuff playing with AA's.
If you sticking to on-road the phatlines will work great.
Offroad, i've heard great things about the Proline Badlands.
Again, both me and my mate run VTR 4.0 Calibur's. Half the weight of the stockers. Legit.
OkGo Performance, RC Division.