I believe I have the cure for the flipping Slayer. I have the original Slayer with the upgraded with the Slayer PRO suspension arms only. Not the chassis. Sway bar kit, and what I think is the fix are the Revo springs. I used the Traxxas Revo trx5439 Gold springs on the front and the trx5445 purple on the rears. I know alot of you will say they are way to stiff. Not at all, just the right amount of sag and the give alot of restance to bottoming out. The springs are shorter, just adjust the tension nut on the shock body to take up the slack. I used 5w30 motor oil in the shocks, but the back end is alittle bouncy, may try heavier weight oil in the rear end only, front is good. Drove it this weekend with this set up and couldn't believe how awesome the truck drove on road and in rough grave. Give it a try.......I know it will transform your Slayer. Traxxas should look at this set up it worked that awesome. Let me know if any of you try it yourselves. I have being messing with my Slayer for over 3 summers now. Now it is perfect.
Motor oil. Hmm. I will stick with RC silicone oil and go with a heavier weight.
The Super Derecho
I know but it was all I had at the time, I will try 20 or 30w. But as it is right now you don't notice it when driving, just doing the drops test on the bench.
I found 45 wt oil and some stiff springs and than a set of 12mm hub extensions is the way to go ran mine this weekend and was great only time it rolled was when I hit a dirt hill. I was really impressed. Actually power slides now and I run some aggressive 1/8 scale buggy tires.
I like the stock 30wt. I don't do much bashing, just cruising around on pavment and grass. Funny, I have motor oil in my Slash's shocks...
Is owning 25 RC's too many?... Nope!
Interesting thread..i have the orig. Slayer which is currently awaiting a p/s. The suspension on it had 000 rebound soo i drill two 3/64" holes in the stock pistons put in 30wt oil and swapped the f/r spings and on the bench it is 100 % better..i cant wait to drive it again.
The like to roll/flip when springs are too soft and oil too thin, this causes the inside corner to want to lift and the outside corner to want to dip during a turn....
Heavier springs and shock oil handles 90% of that issue. That AND how you approach a turn, use the 4WD to pull you through a turn, not push.... Get your line for your turn slow your sped and accelerate through the turns more... I've seen many Monster Trucks and 4WD's use those front wheels to help pull them back out of a mess with the flick of the throttle...
Slam on the brakes at the early part of a turn once the turn has started and you will flip easier... BAsically part technique, part suspension.
Last edited by Nitronaught; 06-10-2013 at 11:55 AM.
All Lives Matter
United We Stand, Divided We Fall
I bought this car used. The owner said he cannot drive it because it flips all the time. Well I was happy to get this inexpensively from him
Then I actually did the same as above! Drilled larger piston holes and put in 30wt. Very good. I changed the rear oil to 35wt since.
I also adjusted all angles, toe-out front, toe-in rear, maximum caster, quite a bit of negative camber to rear. Works nicely.
Waiting for the sway bar set to arrive. To calm down a bit in turns.
I will also change the upper A-arm pins to higher positions next, I guess it will lower the CG a bit because the chassis will sit lower compared to A-arms ?
I like a lot of this truck. I'va had several tens of cars, both nitro and BL, and this must be in top 5. Enjoy driving on a rallycross track we have, it's both tarmac and mud/sand.
Many thanks & Happy racing,
Last edited by MikaR; 06-14-2013 at 01:18 AM.
Forgot to mention I changed the diff oils too, 2000 in front and 500 at rear. I like it loose!
Finally got the Traxxas sway bars installed and tested -- night and day, what a difference! Can recommend!