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Thread: Shock Towers

  1. #1
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    Shock Towers

    We have been working overtime trying to get our slashes to handle well . Today we noticed theres a ton of flex in shock towers . Which could be contributing to poor shock performance (mostly) front. Anyone have luck with upgraded towers?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Some people have had great luck with aluminum shock towers. That will remove all the flex.
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  3. #3
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    I believe we are chasing our tail with the stock plastic tower. Just would rather not ad any un necessary weight.

  4. #4
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    Here is my easy solution.


  5. #5
    RC Qualifier RazorRC22's Avatar
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    You need some flex in the shock towers to survive crashes. Most likely there are other issues than the shock towers, I wouldn't change them unless they break or the threads strip.
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  6. #6
    RC Qualifier thesmogman's Avatar
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    Here is my little MacGyver for the front tower.


    You can also see that I have Shoo-goo'ed the body mount to the shock tower. I have ran it under a BMW and did not break it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    You need some flex in the shock towers to survive crashes. Most likely there are other issues than the shock towers, I wouldn't change them unless they break or the threads strip.
    What issues are you thinking?

    I can tell ya that the stiffer you go with springs and thicker you go with shock oil makes it worse.Thats not good when the front end is soft like a noodle.

    Shock just isnt working 100 % efficient if tower is twisting back almost 3/16" IDK

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
    What issues are you thinking?

    I can tell ya that the stiffer you go with springs and thicker you go with shock oil makes it worse.Thats not good when the front end is soft like a noodle.

    Shock just isnt working 100 % efficient if tower is twisting back almost 3/16" IDK
    I don't know what issues, you were complaining that you can't get your Slash to handle, and that you think you need to replace the shock towers. The shock towers do flex, but you'll notice they are reasonably stiff in the vertical plane, which is the direction the shock will apply force as it moves up and down.

    I just came back from the garage and applied all sorts of forces onto the wheel at different angles, and couldn't really notice any twisting of the shock tower. If you could somehow apply a lot of force to the shock tower in a direction other than what the shock does (up and down), then I could understand. I'm not saying that there isn't a little bit of torque, but for the most part the arm goes up and down and applies force vertically to the shock tower.

    If you could provide more info on how your car is currently setup, what kind of conditions you are driving in, and the best explanation you can make on what you don't like about the way it drives, we may be able to help you get the car to drive better.

    The good thing is that these cars have a lot of adjustments you can make to get them to drive better, much more than most people are willing to learn about or try.

    My car drives pretty darn good, and it's almost completely stock.
    Last edited by RazorRC22; 01-04-2016 at 06:54 PM.
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  9. #9
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    Well YOU pointed out there were "most likely other issues other then shock towers". So I was looking to you for ideas.

    I never "COMPLAINED" I said we were working over time to get our slashes to handle well . Handle well is my opinion. Don't fluff yourself up to much . Our slashes could possibly out handle YOURS.

    The shock mounts Off "the side" of a piece of plastic, as a mount , you dont have to look that close to see the body mount moving back when you raise a wheel.

    moving forward:
    Track: High bite indoor clay.

    Truck: LCG,Gtr's , Drilled 1/16,blue springs, 45wt front,40 rear, Rear diff 30wt,Center100wt,front 20wt.Tekno shaft,proline prime m4,x steering blocks, x caster blocks,vilosity rear shafts. other misc cosmetic upgrades NIC

  10. #10
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    Does the chassis have flex? Slash are known to have a fair amount of chassis flex. I added a metal front to back chassis brace.
    1997 White Mustang Cobra its not a RC!

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
    Track: High bite indoor clay.

    Truck: LCG,Gtr's , Drilled 1/16,blue springs, 45wt front,40 rear, Rear diff 30wt,Center100wt,front 20wt.Tekno shaft,proline prime m4,x steering blocks, x caster blocks,vilosity rear shafts. other misc cosmetic upgrades NIC
    Let me guess - your car pushes in the corners and you can't make tight U-turns without going wide? What are your other settings, toe, camber, and camber link locations? are you using alum. rear hub carriers?

    What don't you like about the way the car drives?
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  12. #12
    RC Qualifier RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Off-hand, your rear diff fluid is too thick, and your shock fluids are too thick as well. 1/16" pistons is about 1.58mm and you need more like 30-35W Associated oil. If you're using Losi oil, it's 32.5-37.5W. If you're using some other brand, well I have no idea.

    Driving technique and track layout will impact fluids a bit, but if you're landing jumps on the backsides and not just dropping from 10 feet onto the ground, the lighter fluids should be better. What swaybars are you using?
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  13. #13
    RC Qualifier thesmogman's Avatar
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    I have to agree with Razor. Don't tune for 1 or 2 jumps tune for the whole track. The one or two jumps are only 10% of the track.
    My set-up is with Assoc. 35wt front pink spring and 32.5 rear black spring 1/16" piston's. I run really low diff oils too as in 7k front, 10k center and 5k to 2k rear.

    If you are having a certain problem, bounce it off us. We will do our best to steer you in the right direction.

  14. #14
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    A couple things that need working out:
    The rear-
    1. Has alot of choppy bounce & vibratiion on the straights & overall

    2. Get 'er going alittle to fast over the choppy stuff and the aS gets airborn.

    3.On big jumps 3'- 4' if your not balanced 100 % on landing , your bottoming or bouncing then aS over or nose over.

    Maybe rear shocks are to long . IDK

    front -
    1. real soft imo , to keep ride height up at rest. where around 12 turns in .

    2. Bottoms out real easy.

    Going to try running rear springs in the front soon. However dont think front shock tower is capable of supporting any more spring..

    Steering : Not to bad , Could be better i guess. But I prefer steering somewhat lazy especially tracks with long straights.. To soft and steering goes away.

    Diffs;
    Havnt really focused to hard on this due to trying to get suspension tweeked.. Theres "alot" of contradicting views floating around on the net & down at the track .. IDK

    Swaybar;
    None , Another contradicting topic.. Idk

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
    The rear-
    1. Has alot of choppy bounce & vibratiion on the straights & overall

    2. Get 'er going alittle to fast over the choppy stuff and the aS gets airborn.
    Your fluids are too thick as mentioned above, you want them to absorb the bumps as you hit them, not deflect like a hardtail Harley.

    3.On big jumps 3'- 4' if your not balanced 100 % on landing , your bottoming or bouncing then aS over or nose over.

    Maybe rear shocks are to long . IDK
    Rear shocks are too long (this is a flaw in the GTR shocks IMO), but that shouldn't flip the rear over the front. Bottoming out on jumps is usually driving technique, especially since you're already overdamped on shock oil weight. You have to land on the backs of jumps accurately, else you will bottom out and there's nothing in the world you can do to tune it out with car changes.

    Basically if you don't land them correctly, you're essentially dropping the car from like 5 feet onto the ground, and your shocks won't absorb that. So you have to land them softly with precise driving.

    front -
    1. real soft imo , to keep ride height up at rest. where around 12 turns in .

    2. Bottoms out real easy.
    Are you running with A-arms level/parallel with the ground after you drop the car from a foot? They need to be. Check your A-arms with the shocks off and make sure they are moving freely with no friction. Also make sure the springs on your shocks are not rubbing on the camber links, that's a common problem with GTR shocks.

    Going to try running rear springs in the front soon. However dont think front shock tower is capable of supporting any more spring..
    Don't put rear springs in the front, they're longer (too long), and they're even softer.

    In a nutshell, swap out the shock fluids to about 32.5 Associated, make sure your arms are parallel with the ground, and check that everything moves freely without the shocks on. Blue GTR springs front and rear should be stiff enough, that's what I run. Unless you added a lot of weight to your car.

    Your shocks should also move smoothly with the springs removed and not bind. You can't crank down on the bottom caps, else the O-rings get pinched and the shaft won't move cleanly.
    Last edited by RazorRC22; 01-05-2016 at 09:31 PM.
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  16. #16
    RC Qualifier RazorRC22's Avatar
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    And yes, I know I come off as a bit of a prick, but I do actually try to help people with their cars.
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  17. #17
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    Gotcha,, Will try your changes . We will be Racing this weekend .. If it gets us closer to perfection then we want to move on to experimenting with arm & shock position along with sway bar & diff oil.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier RazorRC22's Avatar
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    BTW, if you want to replace your shock towers, THIS is what you want!

    https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/traxx...conversion-kit
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  19. #19
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    I was down at the hobby shop comparing the traxxas & Strc shock tower . Looks like the angle on the the upper holes differs . The Strc has the steeper angle / hole location . How does jc concept design there's? Why would they alter hole layout from traxxas?

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier RazorRC22's Avatar
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    I don't know why STRC changes the angle of the holes, I'd have to compare them side to side to see what the difference is. The GTR shocks don't have enough front droop IMO, maybe they lowered the location of the holes overall to give more droop.

    Steeper doesn't really make sense, normally you want it fairly flat relative to the angle of the shock, else you are adjusting droop in addition to angle, which makes it harder to tune since you are adjusting two things at the same time.

    In any case, the STRC towers got pretty bad reviews on amain.com, I'd stay away from them. The Jconcepts CF towers look similar to the Traxxas ones in terms of geometry, just from looking at the pictures.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    BTW, if you want to replace your shock towers, THIS is what you want!

    https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/traxx...conversion-kit
    I have these and they have held up better than anything else I tried. I like the look of the STRC aluminum, but they bent. Similarly, the RPMs bend after a while and are not as stiff. The CF JConcepts seem to be the happy solution (at least for the past year!).
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  22. #22
    RC Qualifier RazorRC22's Avatar
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    I got bit by the Slash bug again, so been messing around with tuning. If you still want the shocks to be supple and smooth over the rough parts of the track, but you have problems bottoming out on big jumps, you can tune in more "shock pack" by going to smaller piston holes and lighter oil.

    For instance, I currently run 1.6 hole pistons front and rear with 35W oil. To get similar shock action over flat(ish) ground, but get more "pack" landing big jumps, I could go to 1.5 hole pistons and roughly 30W oil. That should behave the same over most of the track, but land a bit more firmly with less bottoming out.
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  23. #23
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    Changed our shock oil ,, that was really a baby step forward imo . Then we ended up moving the top of the shock to outer adjustment & lower front 2nd hole from inside & rear to 3rd hole from inside with 40+ % better results. Bonus was less flex on the front tower. however tower still needs to be chucked.. just hate adding weight , especially to the front of a face planter.. But Front suspension seems do able now.
    Going to start looking at the rear .. kinda stiff still.. thinking of ditching the blue bring for lighter . just seems like the tekno's & losi's rears have more lean / movement then us also somewhat better rear traction. Then Possibly need to go to rear stabilizer . IDK ..

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Roll is generally going to give you more traction, so yes, more body roll in the rear will give a little more rear traction assuming you are not bottoming out the spring or overloading the outside tire.

    I spent all Saturday evening basically dialing in more rear traction, because we have this high-speed sweeper where I was constantly losing the rear. Pretty much added more camber gain and more progressive shock spring rate with a little more body roll, and now I have tons of rear traction. A little too much actually, it's pushing the front, though my rebuilt diffs should help that. After that I'll tune the shocks a little more. They're very plush, but not quite responsive enough and I think I have too much fore/aft pitch under acceleration.
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  25. #25
    RC Qualifier Fordbronco1995's Avatar
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    good thinking razor, neg camber deff helps traction when cornering, ive still not made it to the track yet. Not much tuning for backyard bashing lol
    Last edited by Fordbronco1995; 01-11-2016 at 12:24 AM.
    Slash 4X4 bunch of upgrades handful of shiny parts

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier RazorRC22's Avatar
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    BTW, a lot of Slashes nose-dive off jumps, IMO this is a combination of heavy front gear diff, excessively long rear GTR shock extension, and sometimes the rear end squatting/slamming the ground on the take-off ramp.

    Can't do much about the first one, I fixed the second with TRA7464T shock shafts in the rear, and the last one can be fixed by thicker rear fluid or a smoother/more gradual driving style when jumping off the ramps. My car jumps pretty flat after making these changes.
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  27. #27
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    I run these, nice and light, good and strong
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