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  1. #121
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbSoLooT1 View Post
    Baldy, oh man... That looks terrific. I have loved seeing how far this truck has come along. Looks fantastic, and ur gonna LOVE that mamba monster im sure. Thing is a beast... Also love the look of those massive tires, and how clean and unique ur truck looks.... Only thing left on ur truck that is still from a pede is the front skid, and internal tranny gears very awesome my friend.

    Looks like ur Y connection, wires are much shorter. I made my own connections, and purchased some 10awg wiring from Castle so it matched real nice like... Ya should check it out. That way u dont get that bottle neck(if its there)

    Btw. Love that u said, I purchased the Mamba Monster mount, so now I had to buy the Mamba Monster.lol. Its like, well, since I purchased the 6 dollar piece, might as well purchase the 120-200 dollar ESC to go with it LOVE your RC Logicality! Sounds like someone I know too!

    As always...... Wonderful job
    Thanks bro, hard to believe that this truck started out as a Monster Jam Grave Digger! As for the P2de parts left on the truck, its still got the MJ mounts as well, but as far as im concerned, it'll always be 100% P2de!

    As for the MMM, yeah its just a tiny bit overkill for this truck... Just the way i like it. I couldnt pass up the black friday deal for 120 bucks and i couldnt just have the mount without the esc.

    Quote Originally Posted by AbSoLooT1 View Post
    ooo.. btw. how do u find all these tires for the wheelie bar wheels ? man oh man.. They always fit so perfect... U carry around an upgraded wheelie bar wheel in ur pocket in case u come across one eh?
    Now that i have purchased so many tires for the wheelie bar wheels, Ive become pretty accurate when it comes to guessing which ones will fit. I find most of them at the dollar store on the garbage toys they sell. I just have to make sure i go without my son or else id have to wait for a couple days for him to break the toy before i can grip the wheels. Lol









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  2. #122
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirty don View Post
    Man does that thing shine! Looks great Baldy. Loving your new upgrades.
    Thanks man, this truck has been a very satisfying build and rebuild. The cool thing about this truck is that its my main basher and daily driver when the ground is dry. I drive it the craziest, beat on it the hardest and run it way more than any of my other R/C's, and with a little buff n polish it always comes out lookin decent. I cant wait until im able to bash this truck again, snow bashing with the p4de and merv just aint even coming close to filling my bashing requirements!







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  3. #123
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    I have painted many, many bodies for the HR P2DE XL now and although i can say that they have all turned out fairly well, I hadn't found the one that could make me stand back and say "WOW!"....Until now.

    I have always used Pactra paints because it's the only rattle can paint that the LHS will stock, but i didnt mind because they make some pretty cool colors. Now that ive used nearly every color that Pactra has to offer, i started looking at other brands for something new. I have seen some pretty off the hook paint schemes that were achieved using Spaz Stix paints and after looking at their selection of colors, i decided this is the way to go.

    I came across their "Ultimate Mirror Chrome paint" and searched around the net to find some examples of how good it works. There are quite a few guys that use this chrome paint for accents, but not too many that have used it as their main color, mainly because it is known to not adhere very well to the lexan. Some of the reviews i read that were written by people who used it as their main color, had stated all kinds of specific steps that would need to be taken in order to make the chrome yield a reflective finish. At first this had me a feeling that it would be difficult to get a good result using the chrome paint, as they stated steps such as "warming the lexan to 140F or the chrome will come out cloudy", "painting in an ambient temp well above room temp", "using white backer instead of black" as well as many other extreme prepping steps etc etc. Im not one to shy away from a challenge like this, nor was i very concerned if it turned out crappy cuz then i would just bash the body to death, so i decided to give it a go. Now I'm not sure why these guys made the chrome paint process seem beyond the capabilities of a novice painter, but i presume it was to make themselves appear to have some kind of "specialized" high end painting skills that nobody else has. Well I'm declaring shenanigans, as this is not the case at all.

    The steps i used are the exact same steps i use when applying any color or brand of lexan paint. I washed the body with dish soap and hot water, dried the body, cleaned with 99.9% alcohol, applied window and other paint masks, cleaned with alcohol again to get rid of fingerprints etc, applied the chrome in approximately 7-8 very light coats letting each coat dry for around 15-20 mins, applied the Spaz Stix recommended "Ultimate Chrome Black Backer" in 3 or 4 light coats with 15 mins dry time in between coats, removed masks with hobby knife (being very careful not to touch the body), used the backer to black out the windows and other designs and let the body dry overnight. All this done in a room with a 68-70F temp. The chrome paint came out fully reflective like a mirror with no extra steps and no "specialized" painting skills required (i can personally verify the minimal skills part as i have very few! Lol). One thing that i should note is that you cant scuff up the surface before applying this chrome as every tiny imperfection, scratch, dust, streaks from cleaning and even fingerprints will show up in a very big way.


    Out of all the bodies ive ever ran, the HPI Nitro GT2 body has been the one i liked the most as it seems to suit my truck perfectly. Add to that a smokin paint job and now i have a body thats just as shiny as the truck under it! When in more light the chrome looks darker, and when in low light it looks brighter as you can see in these pics when not using the camera flash:









    And with camera flash:











    Just like a mirror:



    Since this was only a trial run with the chrome, i will be doing another one for bashing and this one will go on the shelf because i am positive that this chrome paint will flake and chip upon impacts. The chrome paint flash dries in about 2-3 seconds and until it is backed you can actually rub the chrome flake off with your finger, so its apparent that the chrome has no adhering properties. This would mean that the only way to get the chrome to adhere better, would be to lay down a clear coat first, then the chrome, then the backer. This chrome can also be used in combination with transparent colors, so i am going to try laying some transparent color then use the chrome, then back it and see how that works. Spaz Stix also has gold chrome and some really crazy color changing paints that i really want to try as well.











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  4. #124
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Wow baldy you outdid yourself this time. I learned a ton of the technique I do from you. Have you ever thought of roughening the body with a scotch brite pad? I've been using that since my 3rd paint job. You don't see any of the swirles or anything, it helps paint adhere to the body better. Not that i've had an issues with paint chipping, peeling, or cracking. Guess i've done the prep work right. It might show up with the chrom, I dunno. I used pearl a few times before applying the base coat and that stuff is awesome. I'm definitely going to have to try this in the future. This would look clean on say the HPI Grave Robber body.

    Again. Very clean work like always!! Want to see your WHOLE truck??? LOL j/k

    Oh and I would call that 'Black Chrome'.
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  5. #125
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    BaldyDaniels, the truck looks hot no doubt about it I can only imagine running that on a day that's sunny with a few clouds in the sky. Awesome looking truck, man. With MMM, are you thinking 40mm cans and 4S yet? If anybody's truck was ready for that, I'd pick yours homie

  6. #126
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    Wow baldy you outdid yourself this time. I learned a ton of the technique I do from you. Have you ever thought of roughening the body with a scotch brite pad? I've been using that since my 3rd paint job. You don't see any of the swirles or anything, it helps paint adhere to the body better. Not that i've had an issues with paint chipping, peeling, or cracking. Guess i've done the prep work right. It might show up with the chrom, I dunno. I used pearl a few times before applying the base coat and that stuff is awesome. I'm definitely going to have to try this in the future. This would look clean on say the HPI Grave Robber body.

    Again. Very clean work like always!! Want to see your WHOLE truck??? LOL j/k

    Oh and I would call that 'Black Chrome'.
    Thanks bud. I do usually scuff the body with scotch brite pads if i am using a color that contains metal flake, as those seem to be the ones that are most prone to flaking/chipping. Ive never had a solid color chip or flake and they always seem to wear the best. I guess the fancier the color, the more crap they put into the paint which takes away from its adhesion. You dont want to scuff the surface for the mirror chrome paint. I did some test areas on the extra pieces of scrap lexan from cutting the body out and the scuffing shows as textures in the chrome paint and reflections from light make it stand out even more. I also had one scrap piece that i didnt bother cleaning before applying the chrome and the fingerprints on it showed up and looked like i had actually touched the wet paint when in fact the print was on the lexan. Even Spaz Stix says that the surface needs to be super clean and smooth like glass or the particles in the chrome paint wont lay flat causing a blurred gray non-reflective finish. This mirror chrome paint also cant be used in an external application, they say it wont work. I dont think this paint has very much adhesion at all, so sandwiching it between a clear coat and a backer may help its durability. I have about 1/4 of the can left as it comes in larger 3.5oz rattle cans and i only used it on this body and also a little exotek hummer 1/16 merv body which turned out great too, so i will be using the rest of it to do a bunch of testing to find the best method for durability while maintaining the reflective finish.

    Btw, I did come upon a grave robber body during my research, that had the SS chrome paint used on it. Not as the main color, but a wicked paint job regardless:









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  7. #127
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    BaldyDaniels, the truck looks hot no doubt about it I can only imagine running that on a day that's sunny with a few clouds in the sky. Awesome looking truck, man. With MMM, are you thinking 40mm cans and 4S yet? If anybody's truck was ready for that, I'd pick yours homie
    Thanks for the kind words man. As for powering the MMM with 4s and a 40mm canned motor, ONLY 4s?? Lol. No real need for the 40mm can because the 1415 will take up to 5s max. The 40mm can offsets the rear weight a bit too much for my liking (i tried out my tekin rx8/2650 combo in this truck) and it made the truck rear heavy like it was a stock p2de again and also looked too big and out of place. And yes, i definitely plan on running 4s as well as 5s and may even try a few speed passes on 6s. I have no doubt that this truck will easily handle 4s power. 5s power may get a bit hairy and 6s will be for straight line running only, but will be a very quick straight line. Haha. Its a solid truck though and handles like a dream, its tough to explain how easy this truck is to drive now and although many may think it would be uncontrollable on anything over 3s, i think 4s is gonna be the sweet spot for this truck. Gonna be a fun spring/summer, thats for sure!









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  8. #128
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    Very nice Baldy. I am lovin that mirror finish, more than I can explain in words. When I read about your upcoming spring speed plans I get excited and it keeps me motivated to push myself and my p2de even harder. Can't wait till the snow over there melts. Peace

  9. #129
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirty don View Post
    Very nice Baldy. I am lovin that mirror finish, more than I can explain in words. When I read about your upcoming spring speed plans I get excited and it keeps me motivated to push myself and my p2de even harder. Can't wait till the snow over there melts. Peace
    I hear that man! This snow is driving me nuts, we just got a few more inches monday evening. I had to go buy another small 5hp snowblower just to cut a path across my backyard so i could access my 9hp track driven snowblower that got drifted under 6 feet of snow during the first couple storms. That poor lil 5hp blower had to cut through huge drifts that were 4-5 feet deep and now it runs like its 5 years old already! The worst part is that im off work for a couple months now and cant bash my #1 truck. I have a feeling i will be painting quite a few more bodies while trying to cope! Lol

    Yeah this chrome paint looks off the hook, i hope i can figure out a way to make it more durable and still look as good. You know, there used to be a guy online that actually made complete rc bodies out of aluminum. Id love to get my hands on one of them units. I will see if i can find some pics that i saved of them.







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  10. #130
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    That rig is lookin sweet. Those 3.2" wheels & tires make the truck look stout. I almost got those for mine but went with the maxx's cause im a cheapo, heh. That body style sure does look good. Keep up the awesome work!

  11. #131
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dugsguns View Post
    That rig is lookin sweet. Those 3.2" wheels & tires make the truck look stout. I almost got those for mine but went with the maxx's cause im a cheapo, heh. That body style sure does look good. Keep up the awesome work!
    Thanks man. I really like the look of the 3.2 mashers and wheels, i just wish they were a little lighter cuz the full set of four weighs in at about 2lbs. My 2.8 Trenchers on the same ofna 3.2 wheels only weigh half that. Im still going to give them a try though, so only time will tell how they work out.







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  12. #132
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Ridiculous!!! Holy goodness thats one sick body Baldy... And ur accents?!?!?! oooooo buddy!
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  13. #133
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbSoLooT1 View Post
    Ridiculous!!! Holy goodness thats one sick body Baldy... And ur accents?!?!?! oooooo buddy!
    Thanks brotha! I am totally in love with the chrome look, it turned out way better than i had thought it would. At first i had planned to just black out the windows and make everything else straight chrome, but then i was thinking that it would look better if i broke up the chrome a bit with some black accents. I drew up the simple tribal designs on plain white decal paper, and after cutting them out i realized that the pieces i cut out of the center of the front designs, could be used on the back and would match well because they were basically the same design. I almost made the spoiler chrome too, but just as i was about to spray it, i changed my mind and made it black and Im glad i did cuz it turned out to be a perfect match for the traxxas decal. Now im itching to try all the Spaz Stix color changing paints, cuz i bet they are pretty wicked.







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  14. #134
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Thats awesome man. Turned out fantastic. Love the spoiler pins in there. Those spikes. Super Awesome. Ive always wanted to try their paints. When I get into airbrushing, (next thing) I will be purchasing their paints for sure. I still have tons of Rattle cans though.

    Reading about your ride Baldy, makes me want to drive your truck big time! I can picture how it handles. And ya. 1415 MMM power, on 4,5,and 6S... Now that is just joy
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  15. #135
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    So the street out front my place is dry and I couldnt resist taking this truck out for a rip on 4s lipo, but ended up being a bit let down. With the ET-3s esc & ET-2400 combo on 3s lipo and the current gearing of 43/72, I had no issues with cogging or off the line torque. Considering I am now running the very large 3.2" Masher Tires, I was expecting the torque to be less and also figured there may be some cogging off the line even though i would be running 4s lipo. When i powered the truck on and pulled the throttle, the truck just sat there cogging and twitching and needed a push to even get rolling. The strange part is, that when the motor reaches a certain rpm there is a sudden burst of power and as long as the motor stays above that certain speed I have no shortage of power. At first I just figured that it was due to the new heavier tires and tall gearing, so i lifted the rear tires off the ground and gave it some throttle. The result was less cogging, but the strange "power surge" noise still remained and always kicks in at the same RPM. Anybody Have any idea of what causes this? Bad firmware maybe? Or maybe some settings to help smooth this out? Heres a short video showing the sound it is making:



    Any insight regarding this issue would be much appreciated.
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  16. #136
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    So did it not do this before?
    Because my 3800 does it sometimes..
    But only in colder weather

    When it gets to about 15*c out its fine
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  17. #137
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdvanb View Post
    So did it not do this before?
    Because my 3800 does it sometimes..
    But only in colder weather

    When it gets to about 15*c out its fine
    It didnt do this when I was running the ET-3s (MMP) esc on 3s lipo, it only does this with the MMM on 4s lipo. It does this at any temp. When I ran it outside it was only 2C, but the video was shot in my kitchen after sitting in the house for a few hours. I'm gonna change up some of the esc settings again and see if it helps cuz I've been waiting since fall to drive this truck.
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  18. #138
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    hmmmm isnt that esc's software only good for running 3s max?

    i know the mmp can take up to 6s. but the traxxas software might beg to differ on max v's
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  19. #139
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    When I was playing with my castle link, I found that changing the start power setting from the default low to mid or high made takeoffs a lot smoother. Castle sets it to low as a default for those running less powerful lipos (low c's)

    Staying tuned for this 4S insanity

  20. #140
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Well I changed the start power to medium and to high and the only difference is that I no longer have any low rpms before the "burst" sound like in the video, now it just launches harder with the "burst" sound right off the start. I also noticed that I have no brakes whatsoever, no matter how fast the truck is going when I apply the brakes it just slams into reverse. I also dropped thirteen teeth on the pinion from 43 to 30 and am still getting excessive amounts of cogging off the line. I'm gonna try one of my other CC 1415 motors and see if maybe its just my motor causing this. I did shorten the motor wires, so maybe it's a faulty connection. It sure makes a strange squeal and howl come from the motor when I try running it, so I'm thinking it's gotta be a bad connection. The weather has been super nice here so the snow is melting very rapidly and the streets are all dry, so its kinda bumming me out that I can't run this truck yet.


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    Yeah, and that about sounds like my experience with tweaking the start power, but less exaggerated since it was on 3S. Even at 30/76, that's pretty tall gearing IMO. That's about the equivalent to the 22/50 I'd run for top speeds. Never much cogging, but something like 18/54 made the truck a lot more driveable.

    Try bumping the timing. I tried all of the available setting increases and it never really bumped the motor heat like I thought it would, but it did make take offs more motivated, but not quite like how the start power changes do. Apologies for steering you wrong. Got any smallish pinions around? Never hurts to try something like stockish gearing. Good luck, dude. I know you'll get it sorted out

  22. #142
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    Yeah, and that about sounds like my experience with tweaking the start power, but less exaggerated since it was on 3S. Even at 30/76, that's pretty tall gearing IMO. That's about the equivalent to the 22/50 I'd run for top speeds. Never much cogging, but something like 18/54 made the truck a lot more driveable.

    Try bumping the timing. I tried all of the available setting increases and it never really bumped the motor heat like I thought it would, but it did make take offs more motivated, but not quite like how the start power changes do. Apologies for steering you wrong. Got any smallish pinions around? Never hurts to try something like stockish gearing. Good luck, dude. I know you'll get it sorted out
    No apology necessary man, you couldn't have been steering me in the wrong direction as I have no idea which direction is the correct one!

    I dunno man, the motor just doesn't sound right with this esc, its a really loud whining/howling/screeching. With the et-3s esc and this same motor on 3s, I was running 41/72 gearing with very minimal cogging off the line, could still pull wheelies at any speed under 45mph and the motor never made the sound like this either. Imo, It would be fair to assume that the MMM/2400 on 3s lipo would perform the same or better than the et-3s/2400 on 3s when both combos use the same gearing. This is not the case at all though because with the et-3s/2400 combo on 3s, my gearing for bashing was 30/72 and with this same gearing the MMM/2400 is falling on its face and can barely get going using the same 3s lipo.

    The only thing I can think of that may be the issue (other than a faulty esc) is the bullet connections to the motor leads. The 1415 motor has way smaller gauge wiring than the MMM, so maybe the solder is causing a bottle neck there. Not sure why I can't get any brakes, but it could be due to the same thing. My other castle 1415 motors have the smaller bullet connectors and I didnt want to have to switch them just for testing so i think I'm gonna just solder the MMM motor leads directly to the et-2400, then I can rule out the connections at least. Im also gonna email CC and see what they have to say. If the esc ends up going back to castle for service, I'll just upgrade it to the MMM 2.




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    Just a stab in the dark but are you installed straight up aa bb cc? Any chance you wanna try mixing a, b or c. I wasn't sure if you had much runtime with the MMM yet so I figure I'd throw it out there. I might see where running 'in reverse' could seem weak at 50%, be more prone to cog especially if you're trying to go forward and not want to brake worth a

    I saw the vid too, and I've gotta say, maybe TRAXXAS asked castle to hook them up on the et3S but I was under the impression that that burst of rpm was signature castle combo. Also, my mmp combo needed the wires crossed to run right - prior to having the castle link.

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    I'm no expert on this but is there a chance that "launch control" and or "staging mode" is activated on your esc?
    Traxxas' exclusive Staging Mode (patent pending) allows the Traxxas NHRA Funny Car to creep into the stage beams of the DTS-1 timing system (sold separately) allowing you to execute authentic starting line strategy against your opponent.
    Also some things in the instruction manual for the funny car say things about launch control that sounds like it may be your problem.. Maybe worth a look maybe not idk. Just trying to help.

  25. #145
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayblazer View Post
    I'm no expert on this but is there a chance that "launch control" and or "staging mode" is activated on your esc?
    Traxxas' exclusive Staging Mode (patent pending) allows the Traxxas NHRA Funny Car to creep into the stage beams of the DTS-1 timing system (sold separately) allowing you to execute authentic starting line strategy against your opponent.
    Also some things in the instruction manual for the funny car say things about launch control that sounds like it may be your problem.. Maybe worth a look maybe not idk. Just trying to help.
    I'm not running the et-3s esc anymore, the problems I'm currently having are with the Mamba Monster esc.
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  26. #146
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Are you running the MMM or the MMMv2 Wp one? Have you tried using different firmwares? I know there are/were a few that had some issues. I don't know what the causes were on them. Try messing with a few of those, I was told the newest FW out is pretty awesome. I have it running on my EMBE and its been pretty good until I decided to bust the ears off my alloy bulk and bend my shock tower on a jump. LOL Cheap alloy, i'm sure its Integy....Haaaa
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  27. #147
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    I'm running the MMM non-waterproof. I am also running the newest firmware which I believe is 1.39. I tried a few different motor wire configurations and I got my brakes working again. Strange how castle says theres no polarity on the esc's motor leads, yet some configurations cause the brakes to act up or stop working. I also dropped the pinion down another 7 teeth to 26/72 which is the smallest pinion that will fit with the 72 tooth spur. I haven't tried running it on 4s yet, but I did run it on 3s tonight and when it's rolling it has massive amounts of power but off the line it cogs pretty bad. If the truck isnt moving and I mash the throttle to full really quick sometimes the truck won't even move at all and just twitches. I just can't wrap my head around the fact that I could get away with 41/72 on 3s with the et-3s but can't get the MMM to run smooth geared 26/72 on 3s. Sure I'm running bigger and heavier 3.2" masher tires, but there's no way that dropping 17 teeth on the pinion wouldn't more than compensate for the larger tire size. Heck, off the line the truck runs like its towing a 25lb trailer behind it. I'll give 4s and 5s a try tomorrow and if the MMm still won't run properly I'll install it in the excess-XL truck the et-3s will go back in the hr p2de. Then I can mess around with it without having my number one truck down and out. So far I'm not too impressed with the MMM and now I'm kinda regretting selling the rx8/pro4 3300 combo as a package deal with my first p4de and xo-1, cuz I never had any issues like this with the rx8.
    Never trust an "Atom", they make up everything.

  28. #148
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Don't give up yet bro!! That's unlike you, and with no regrets. Keep your head up high and see if we can get this worked out.

    Do you calibrate the ESC/ Radio everytime you make changes to ESC Programming? How many FW versions back have you tried? So the ET-3S and ET-2400 motor have no issues whatsoever?! Did you upgrade the bullet connectors on the motor side to the 6.5mm or downgrade them to the 4mm to match the 1415 motor? I don't see that being a problem since the motor is rated up to 5S. What are the "c" rating of the packs. If i've missed something you've stated,,,,sorry.

    Did you reverse the motor in the Castle Link software? If so, change it back to normal direction and swap 2 wires for forward direction, then recalibrate the Tx/ESC. Just thinking outloud.
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  29. #149
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    Don't give up yet bro!! That's unlike you, and with no regrets. Keep your head up high and see if we can get this worked out.

    Do you calibrate the ESC/ Radio everytime you make changes to ESC Programming? How many FW versions back have you tried? So the ET-3S and ET-2400 motor have no issues whatsoever?! Did you upgrade the bullet connectors on the motor side to the 6.5mm or downgrade them to the 4mm to match the 1415 motor? I don't see that being a problem since the motor is rated up to 5S. What are the "c" rating of the packs. If i've missed something you've stated,,,,sorry.

    Did you reverse the motor in the Castle Link software? If so, change it back to normal direction and swap 2 wires for forward direction, then recalibrate the Tx/ESC. Just thinking outloud.
    The bullet connectors that I used were 6.5mm and I calibrate every time I make a change to the esc programming. I tried another motor wire configuration, then I did a reset of the esc by reverting everything to default settings, then downgrading the firmware, then installing the newest 1.39 again. After all this is was a night n day difference in performance, but it was still cogging off the line. Oaks had sent me a pm and suggested switching back to some smaller sized tires, so I threw on a set of XO-1 wheels/tires and now it seems to run pretty good on 4s lipo geared 35/72, but I could only hit 35mph with the XO-1 tires before the truck gets squirrelly and spins out cuz these tires blow. lol At 35mph I was at less than half throttle, so it should be fun to see what this rig can do with some decent tires. Apparently the 3.2 mashers are just too much, and I pthink it has a lot to do with the excessive toe-in on the rear plus the crazy traction and excessive weight of the new mashers then on top of that my diff is packed solid with diff locking grease. No worries, the Mashers will go to my son for his E-Maxx.

    Either way, I've come up with a solution for a set of wheels and tires for this truck. I manage to crack and break the ofna wheels with my trencher tires on em while running them on my p4de (I cant imagine how i did this cuz im so easy on my p4de ), but the trenchers were still in great shape so I was able to reuse them to do something I've wanted to do for a good while now...



    3.8'S Y'ALL!!!


    Now I've never been too much of a fan of the stock Traxxas wheels, that is until they released the geodes a good while back. Whenever I looked at the geodes without tires mounted on them, I could always picture how good they would look with some nice low profile tires mounted up. Since most of the street tires available are no good to me because all the asphalt around here tends to have dirt and dust on it, I needed a street friendly tire that could also hit the gravel and dirt while also being able to handle high speeds. Thee all know how sticky the trenchers are on pavement, and using my carpet taping method and with this much sidewall reduction, the trenchers barely deform at all at high speeds. This wheel tire combo worked out better than I imagined and IMO look really ballin' too. And as for the handling of this setup.... Oh my the handling! Check em out:









    The Geodes also weigh the same as the MT Splits and sinmce i trimmed more of the bead off the Trenchers and used the same foams (just stretched the on very carefully) this new setup actually weighs even less than the ofna/trencher setup.
    Never trust an "Atom", they make up everything.

  30. #150
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    The truck looks awesome like this! I noticed where the trenchers' sidewalls sit on the bead and its almost like 'they knew' Glad to hear the truck is running well on 4S and that you've opened the door to more power for le beast

  31. #151
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    That looks awesome. Nice work. I will post pics of my new build in a thread when all my stuff arrives. Love your truck.. You are so talented. My 4 year old scrolls on the computer all the time looking at your trucks, so thanks now I have to build one lol. Thanks for all your help by the way, Very much appreciated.

    Side Note: ESC will go out today or tomorrow. Me and my little one had a case of Phenumonia. So didn't get it done over the weekend.

  32. #152
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    That is just inspiring. I love mirror looks and plain aluminum builds. Now that I have sen your post, definitely take some peeks out here.
    Live life to the fullest

  33. #153
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Nice look'n work baldy!!! I really dig that Tire/Wheel combo.

    Maybe time to bump up to 1512 (2650kv) or 1515 (2200kv) motor. LOL

    BTW I have a couple sets of Geodes for my ERBE. I have one set installed and another as a spare.
    Weak Revenge
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  34. #154
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    The truck looks awesome like this! I noticed where the trenchers' sidewalls sit on the bead and its almost like 'they knew' Glad to hear the truck is running well on 4S and that you've opened the door to more power for le beast
    Yeah they did fit like they were meant to be trimmed for 3.8's. I trimmed the bead right along the bottom edge of the Proline lettering and it worked out perfect. The one extra step I did do, was to take the dremel and grind down all the raised lettering on the sidewall to ensure the sidewall was laying flat against the wheel so the tire glue would hold better. This wheel and tire combo responds so accurately and instantly to the steering inputs of the radio, that I could barely control the truck on the first run and had to tweak every aspect of the suspension and linkage to compensate. And it still took a couple runs to get used to.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dallas22 View Post
    That looks awesome. Nice work. I will post pics of my new build in a thread when all my stuff arrives. Love your truck.. You are so talented. My 4 year old scrolls on the computer all the time looking at your trucks, so thanks now I have to build one lol. Thanks for all your help by the way, Very much appreciated.

    Side Note: ESC will go out today or tomorrow. Me and my little one had a case of Phenumonia. So didn't get it done over the weekend.
    Thank you for the kind words bud, and you're very welcome. Happy I could provide the help you needed and no rush for the esc (thank you very much btw ) sorry to hear about the illness, hope you and the little one are okay now. Feel free to shoot me a message when you need info while building a rig like mine for the youngster. Lol

    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    That is just inspiring. I love mirror looks and plain aluminum builds. Now that I have sen your post, definitely take some peeks out here.
    Thanks man, I have a lot of trucks now but none of them get the amount of care and attention (and money) that I dedicate to this one, so the positive feedback always makes it more rewarding. I love all the shiny stuff too, I just need to find a place that will nickel plate a bunch of alloy parts for me so I can build another one in gold tone.

    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    Nice look'n work baldy!!! I really dig that Tire/Wheel combo.

    Maybe time to bump up to 1512 (2650kv) or 1515 (2200kv) motor. LOL

    BTW I have a couple sets of Geodes for my ERBE. I have one set installed and another as a spare.
    Thanks man! I still have the rx8/t8 2650 combo that I won off eBay a good while back, but when I tried it in this truck early last year it was a bit too much weight in the rear and made it fairly difficult to land jumps on 4 wheels and bent up the swami pretty good, plus it didnt run very well on 3s which is what i prefer to run most of the time. With the new wheel and tire combo the truck is running a lot better now, but I still have some more tweaking to do with the castle link to get smoother starts. I've been having better results using high start power and adjusting the throttle curve. Next I'm gonna try limiting the torque and see if I can smooth it right out. The MMM runs the 2400 waaaay different than the et-3s runs the 2400. The MMM seems to wanna put out massive power all the time regardless of the radio's throttle inputs and requires a lot more setup, where the et-3s is a bit more controllable in its default configurations. It's a good learning experience though, especially now that the initial setup frustrations are in the past and I can finally drive the truck! I wish the MMM had the castle link live feature though, cuz I really liked being able to adjust the esc settings via the iPhone instead of having to use the castle link cable. Oh well, once I get it where I want it, that's where it'll stay anyways.
    Never trust an "Atom", they make up everything.

  35. #155
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    hey baldy how hard is it find 3.2" mashers?

    i found a only a pair of nib 3.2 mashers in my lhs but with out the second pair there useless to me
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  36. #156
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=reod12x2;5497486]hey baldy how hard is it find 3.2" mashers?

    i found a only a pair of nib 3.2 mashers in my lhs but with out the second pair there useless to me[/QUOTEive seen them on the proline site listed under the legacy product line.
    Baldy, looks killer!
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  37. #157
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reod12x2 View Post
    hey baldy how hard is it find 3.2" mashers?

    i found a only a pair of nib 3.2 mashers in my lhs but with out the second pair there useless to me
    I see em on eBay All the time:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Pro-Line...item5ae6335420

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Pro-Line...item2c6dbd2059

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Line-107...item589f5d4ed3


    [QUOTE=thedreadedend;5497491]
    Quote Originally Posted by reod12x2 View Post
    hey baldy how hard is it find 3.2" mashers?

    i found a only a pair of nib 3.2 mashers in my lhs but with out the second pair there useless to me[/QUOTEive seen them on the proline site listed under the legacy product line.
    Baldy, looks killer!
    Thanks man, now that ive successfully done the trenchers, I really want to pick up a set of 2.8 mashers and mount em on 3.8's too.

    Got any leads on some full offset 3.8" wheels?
    Never trust an "Atom", they make up everything.

  38. #158
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    hey baldy.... im looking at going down the same road for a power system. with the new trx mxl-6s and funny car motor combo. so essentially a mmm2 with 2400kv motor. im going to hop onto the wagon at 4s lipo.

    is there any pointers or tips that you could give me for this type of power? im coming from a mmp 3800kv combo on 2s lipo


    I actually want to do some 30min+ sustained speed runs of about 65-85 mph if possible. with a 4s 13000mah lipo.
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  39. #159
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    hey baldy any thing new on the build thread?
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  40. #160
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Baldy we miss you!
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

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