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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    if you start breaking shock caps you might need to go back to the stock length, for the P2 rockers.
    I had my push rods set for LT's, running on the P2 rockers, & started breaking the shock caps.
    Thanks for the info mate ...hopefully I don't break a shock cap.

    I've been using the P3 push rods with the P2 rockers for about 7 months now with no issues. I find its the rod ends that I often have to replace .
    Rock n Rolla !

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by YFZBOB View Post
    This thread should be in a magazine! I don't own a ERBE, but your tech write up is AWESOME!!!
    Thanks mate
    Rock n Rolla !

  3. #43
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    Exclamation RPM A-Arms

    In this build I have decided to use RPM A-Arms. I have read some good reports about them, so, I am going to give them a go and give my feed back of what I think.

    I will not be using the true-track as I still want the option of adjusting toe angle on the rear. Here is a pic below of the RPM A-Arms.



    I only had a stock left A-Arm on hand for comparison.



    Here is the top of the Stock and RPM A-Arm. As you can see the RPM looks a little beefier than stock.







    Here is the bottom of the Stock and RPM A-Arm. Again as you can see the RPM looks a little beefier than stock.







    My verdict so far...all in all the RPM is a nice looking A-Arm with a sleek design and a lot beefier than stock. I look forward to testing them out and putting these A-Arms through their paces
    Rock n Rolla !

  4. #44
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    Exclamation Drive Axles

    I have read a lot on these forums about various drive axles, from the traxxas steel cvd to the MIPs. I can't comment on any of the above axles as I have had great success with the Summit drive shafts.

    Here is my verdict on them...I have always run 6s in my eRevo with Summit drive shafts. They are absolutely brilliant and have held up great to the abuse I put my truck under, sure they break...but they are a quick easy fix and can be done on the fly while out bashing.

    Since i have replaced a good few things on my build, I decided to put new drive shafts all round and keep the old for spare. One was broken and the other three weren't in bad condition.



    As you can see here there is not to much wear on the end of the shaft. This was the worst of them.



    One thing I can't stress enough is get a decent set of hex screw drivers as when working with 3mm grub screws it is so easy to strip the hex head and make a good build a disaster to sort out. The Summit shafts take 3mm grub screws.



    I stripped the shafts so I could clean the stub axle #5654 and diff output CV drive #5653 and replace with new long shafts #5656. I cleaned with RP7 to remove any rust and grit...also to give a light coat of lube to protect from rusting.



    The stub axle and diff output CV drive were still in good nick and probably still get a good lot of solid runs from them.



    REMOVING STUB AXLES FROM AXLE CARRIERS
    I will show you a simple way to remove the stub axle from the carrier without pounding away with a wrench or hammer and damaging the bearings in the process. The same goes for sliding the bearing over the stub axle...Because of the spline pin and the force on the axle it often causes a lip that you can't see with the eye and stops the bearing from sliding over the hole.

    I know the pic is of me pushing the stub axle on the axle carrier the wrong way but I am sure you get the idea of what I am trying to explain. In the pic this is often where the bearing gets stuck, on either side of the spline hole.



    The simple solution is when this happens is to get some sand paper that is not to coarse (very fine) and cut a strip. Wrap it around the stub axle and role between your fingers like so.



    The bearing should slide off in no time and you save yourself the hassle and frustration of the axle being stuck and trying to force off

    I always have on hand 3 different types of sand paper, all very fine coarse...it always comes in handy.
    Rock n Rolla !

  5. #45
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    Exclamation 17mm HPP Hex adapters

    I personally think that these are one of the best hex adapters on the market. From my experience with them been used on my eRevo, they have totally eliminated my wheel slop and I would recommend these to anyone who was interested in them. They are fairly pricey adapter but well worth the dollars.

    Below are the HPP hex adapters ready to be installed, again I am not going to go into to much details of the installation of the adapters.



    To install I put a drop of blue thread lock on the end of the thread of the stub axle



    I then put a bead of grease on the locking nut that holds the hex adapter in place. This is to allow for an easy fit to the hex adapter and axle shaft



    This is it all fitted together and fully tightened

    Rock n Rolla !

  6. #46
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    The build is going slowly...I am taking my time and enjoying every bit of it

    Rock n Rolla !

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by YFZBOB View Post
    This thread should be in a magazine! I don't own a ERBE, but your tech write up is AWESOME!!!
    Hey mate, I second that because I know first hand the amount of time, thought and effort you have been putting into the rebuild and this thread. kudos man!
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  8. #48
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    Exclamation Transmission

    I've ended up replacing my bearings all round, so last night I replaced the bearings in my transmission.

    I thought I would post this here for those who haven't seen the inside of a transmission before, or who would like to know what the inside of one looks like.

    Here is my transmission stripped down and cleaned. The bearings have been replaced and my transmission is ready to be rebuilt.



    I've read the debate on these forums about greasing, diff lubing and leaving the transmission clean. I like to grease my moving parts, especially when there is metal on metal contact.

    As you can see in the photo below I applied a generous amount of grease to all the moving parts, even the nylon gear. I have been using this method ever since I have gotten into the RC hobby game and have never had an issue from greasing my transmission.

    Again I have used Mobil1 red grease.



    I then closed up the transmission and is now ready to be installed .

    I like to service my transmission every 6 months and inspect every couple months to see that the bearings are still running smoothly.
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-11-2012 at 06:03 PM. Reason: I can't spell
    Rock n Rolla !

  9. #49
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    Awesome thread, very informative, and well documented, greats details, and info here for newbies to the erevo like me.

  10. #50