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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Exclamation MITCH316 ERBE rebuild

    So, it is time for a revamp of my truck. You will find the original post of my upgrades here http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-E-revo-hop-up

    Since my original post its unbelievable how much I have learnt about the E-Revo, especially the information in the E-Revo brushless forum and the advice from others.

    I am in search of creating a bullet proof build that works for me as an all round setting for the way I like to bash my truck. I am wanting to share this info with you...I was about 80% there with a bullet proof build before this rebuild, I just needed to tweak a few settings on my truck to get there.

    I am a 6s basher, big air and jumps and track race from time to time but not competitively (just waiting for my local track to be rebuilt at the moment as council have bulldozed down) and like to thrash my truck on just about anything I can ride on.

    Here is my truck stripped down and ready for its rebuild



    I will end up stripping the RX box, ESC, motor, tranny and servos from the chassis; giving it a much deserved clean. I plan on reusing the existing chassis as it is still good for a while, I too am doing the Losi LST2 diff conversion. This will give me some practice at trimming back the chassis for the diff conversion.



    These are the parts I am replacing with new and doing a few RPM upgrades in the process...I am just waiting on some parts to arrive in the post.



    I thought I would get a start on my post for now. I will keep it updated as I make progress.
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 08-13-2012 at 05:23 AM. Reason: I can't spell
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  2. #2
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    You gonna clean a dye the chassis ? I think that looks loads better black...grey with the dirt just looks horrible imo
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brewers74 View Post
    You gonna clean a dye the chassis ? I think that looks loads better black...grey with the dirt just looks horrible imo
    Yeah mate, I've been thinking about dying it black. Will trim the chasis first for the diff conversion
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  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    The mail man was kind to me this morning. I received these items in the post:



    As you can see I could not find a complete Losi LST2 diff for sale on eBay for postage to Australia; so I ended up having to build the diffs. I find it's the best way to learn when you have to build it yourself.

    During the course of this week I will be modifying bulk heads and chassis to suit the Losi LST2diff conversion
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 08-13-2012 at 05:10 PM. Reason: I can't spell
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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    looks like a bunch of parts Aaaa, till you start assembling.
    if possible might get a good bit of info on you diff assembling, shim ect.
    there are a few threads on the diff mod, but not much on building the LST2 diff...
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

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    BTW, my diffs came with one shim in each diff. Part # A6356 in the pic. It was placed in each diff to move the gears away from each other a little. I tried placing the shim in the opposite position to move the gears closer together, but seemed rough when turning. So I placed the shim back where it was moving the gears away from each other again and gear movement was butter smooth. No issues with mine and going on 10 serious sessions. An all time record for me, lol!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    looks like a bunch of parts Aaaa, till you start assembling.
    if possible might get a good bit of info on you diff assembling, shim ect.
    there are a few threads on the diff mod, but not much on building the LST2 diff...
    Thanks GN, will post my process on building the diff for all to see

    Quote Originally Posted by Revoroller View Post
    BTW, my diffs came with one shim in each diff. Part # A6356 in the pic. It was placed in each diff to move the gears away from each other a little. I tried placing the shim in the opposite position to move the gears closer together, but seemed rough when turning. So I placed the shim back where it was moving the gears away from each other again and gear movement was butter smooth. No issues with mine and going on 10 serious sessions. An all time record for me, lol!
    Cheers mate...thanks for that info. I will assemble the diff dry with no lube or grease and mod the bulk head and chassis first
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 08-13-2012 at 11:10 PM. Reason: I can't spell
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  8. #8
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    Hi Craig. Here is an exploded view of the diff. Hope it's helpful. I was fortunate to locate two diffs already assembled, so it was very easy to work with.


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoroller View Post
    Hi Craig. Here is an exploded view of the diff. Hope it's helpful. I was fortunate to locate two diffs already assembled, so it was very easy to work with.

    do you know what size the pin is in B3505 is and if they can be bought in a pack all i need is the pin not the rest of the stuff.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by black67stang View Post
    do you know what size the pin is in B3505 is and if they can be bought in a pack all i need is the pin not the rest of the stuff.
    G'day mate...this is the part I bought for the conversion Losi CV Driveshaft Rebuild Set #LOSB3505. Post #27 shows the bits I used for the conversion.

    Like you, all I needed was the pin...unfortunately for the LST2 conversion there were a number of Losi parts I had to buy that were not necessary...I only needed one item from the grouped parts they sell together for my build.

    I am not sure what to do with the left over Losi parts...I might toss them away as I have no need for them and don't know anyone in Oz that has a Losi .

    I hope this info was of some help to you .
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-25-2012 at 12:58 AM. Reason: I can't spell
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  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    So I opened up some of my packets of parts that arrived today; and here is a comparison of the Losi LST2 diff to the Traxxas diff.

    The Traxxas diff setup you see in the picture is an ST Racing aluminium diff case and Hot Racing aluminium diff cup. I was going to use this setup as a bulletproof version of the Traxxis diff but since then have changed my mind. I am going with the Losi LST2 diff as my bulletproof version now.

    I have read some good reviews and have had positive feed back from people using this mod.

    LST2 diff on the left and Traxxas diff on the right.


    As you can see in the picture the LST2 diff is a beefier diff all round.
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 08-14-2012 at 09:12 AM.
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  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Here is the end result of my attempt at rit dying...it didn't come out too bad. This is my P2 rockers and chassis

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  13. #13
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    Good heavens is that..........is that.........is that your wife's good cutting board?!?

    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    Here is the end result of my attempt at rit dying...it didn't come out too bad. This is my P2 rockers and chassis

    Get rid of the Wing & Tighten slipper all the way

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveski4 View Post
    Good heavens is that..........is that.........is that your wife's good cutting board?!?
    Sure is mate...what she doesn't know, doesn't hurt (LOL!)
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveski4 View Post
    Good heavens is that..........is that.........is that your wife's good cutting board?!?
    LOL! (Craig promptly running to Ikea to get a new board...). Black dye is definitely on my list on the first overhaul...And getting rid of all the blue stuff too.
    Nice pics Craig. Thx!

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    I've finally trimmed out my bulk heads and chassis to fit the Losi LST2 diff. I've decided to try rit dying and see how it goes. Here is a couple off pics of my trimmed chassis before been rit dyed

    Front end of the chassis


    Rear end of chassis
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  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    I just received some more parts for my build today from eBay. I must say that I am a little dissapointed as I only received half more order . This means I need to wait another couple weeks for the outstanding parts to arrive.

    As you can see in the pic my chassis next to the RPM arms came out quite dark...I should of left it in the dye probably an hour or so more to be slightly darker...none the less I am happy with the end result.



    Still out standing, Hitec servo, RPM axle carriers and bumper mounts; and the new wing.
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 08-21-2012 at 07:19 PM. Reason: I can't spell
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  18. #18
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    Waterproofing the mamba ESC.

    Still waiting on parts to arrive...I thought I would include this in my new build thread.

    Where I live it rains quite a bit and have sweltering humid summers. I am not a big fan of the outwears shroud so I went the Plasti Dip route. Note* Doing this mod to your ESC will void your warranty.

    First of all I cut the switch off...I kept having problems with it. This way I am forced to unplug my batteries when finished using my truck. I just soldered the 2 wires together to bypass the switch.



    I then went and used electrical tape to cover the heat sink and plugs to protect while coating with Plasti Dip:





    My advice is don't coat to thick or you will have issues trying to fit the ESC back into the cover.

    This has proven to be very successful in running in wet conditions with no issues what so ever. I knowingly can go drive my truck with confidence now and not worry about killing my ESC.

    I have been running this mod for about 5 months now with no heat issues or any issues with my ESC
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 08-25-2012 at 05:19 PM. Reason: I can't spell
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    Still waiting on parts to arrive...I thought I would include this in my new build thread.

    Where I live it rains quite a bit and have sweltering humid summers. I am not a big fan of the outwears shroud so I went the Plasti Dip route. Note* Doing this mod to your ESC will void your warranty.

    First of all I cut the switch off...I kept having problems with it. This way I am forced to unplug my batteries when finished using my truck. I just soldered the 2 wires together to bypass the switch.



    I then went and used electrical tape to cover the heat sink and plugs to protect while coating with Plasti Dip:





    My advice is don't coat to thick or you will have issues trying to fit the ESC back into the cover.

    This has proven to be very successful in running in wet conditions with no issues what so ever. I knowingly can go drive my truck with confidence now and not worry about killing my ESC.

    I have been running this mod for about 5 months now with no heat issues or any issues with my ESC
    Doing this mod tomorrow bro. I got my hands on a cheap Mamba monster ESC , so I will use that to build my weather proof erbe. I bought black plastic dip, but I am tempted to take it back and exchange it for the red, since it will reveal the spots that need to be coated better than black. What do you think ?

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoroller View Post
    Doing this mod tomorrow bro. I got my hands on a cheap Mamba monster ESC , so I will use that to build my weather proof erbe. I bought black plastic dip, but I am tempted to take it back and exchange it for the red, since it will reveal the spots that need to be coated better than black. What do you think ?
    You wont regret the mod bro...I've never submerged my ESC totally in water but have played in wet conditions with no issues whatsoever (It can rain for days on end here in Brisbane sometimes and a lot in summer); playing in wet grass or mud has never been an issue. Red was the only colour I could get at the time of the mod. Red you will probably see easier when doing.

    My advice is coat it thin or you wont get your ESC back in its case...I need to do my new servo as its not waterproof...I think its splash resistant.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    You wont regret the mod bro...I've never submerged my ESC totally in water but have played in wet conditions with no issues whatsoever (It can rain for days on end here in Brisbane sometimes and a lot in summer); playing in wet grass or mud has never been an issue. Red was the only colour I could get at the time of the mod. Red you will probably see easier when doing.

    My advice is coat it thin or you wont get your ESC back in its case...I need to do my new servo as its not waterproof...I think its splash resistant.
    Thanks bro!

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    My advice is don't coat to thick or you will have issues trying to fit the ESC back into the cover.

    This has proven to be very successful in running in wet conditions with no issues what so ever. I knowingly can go drive my truck with confidence now and not worry about killing my ESC.



    Hey Mitch316,
    What plastidip did you use? I see cans of it and a spray on as well. Is one better than the other? There are so many variations of plastidip at my local hardware store. spray paint, dip coating, etc. Also, if my esc ever dies, can i do the esc swap with traxxas? You know, you send them your fried esc an they send you a new one for 70 bucks or so.

    http://www.lowes.com/Search=plasti+d...storeId=10151#!
    hey, you need a real driver for that car?!?

  23. #23
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    Axle carriers (knuckles)

    So I have decided to try RPM Axle Carriers. I found that there is nothing wrong with stock carriers, except for me the bearings never seemed to last.

    Here is a comparison of stock bearings to RPM.
    RPM left / Stock right


    As you can see the RPM bearings have a lot more surface area...in theory these bearings should be able to take more forces that they are subjected to over stock. Greater surface area = less stress on the bearing.

    Here is a comparison of stock axle carriers to RPM.

    RPM left / Stock right



    I have heard that the pivot balls pull out of the RPM axles, it is a weak point of theirs. Thanks to danielhr77 for this bit of info...I took the stock axle carriers and removed the retainer ring with a xacto knife.



    I then pressed the retainer ring onto the RPM axle carrier (knuckle)...it fitted no problem and is a press fit.



    I then fitted the stock pivot ball dust boots and rings along with the rubber caps that fit into the pivot ball cap onto the RPM axle carriers.



    I haven't tested these axles yet but will give some feed back after a few hard bashing sessions
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 08-30-2012 at 08:34 AM. Reason: I can't spell
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  24. #24
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    it definitely works craig mitch...i had that prob and swapped the rings and no prob ever since. NOW...if i can get my front and rear diffs to last would be great! im starting to think this car wasnt made for 6S lipo power.
    Last edited by steelersfan1972; 08-30-2012 at 09:51 PM. Reason: typo

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelersfan1972 View Post
    it definitely works craig mitch...i had that prob and swapped the rings and no prob ever since. NOW...if i can get my front and rear diffs to last would be great! im starting to think this car wasnt made for 6S lipo power.
    Thanks mate...I got tired of rebuilding diffs. I only run 6s and so now I have decided the Losi LST2 conversion is the way.

    I am following revorollers mod for the LST 2 conversion as I am also using the traxxas steel cvd. He has informed me that he has had great success with the mod so far

    I am still waiting for a couple of parts to arrive so I can put my truck back together, hopefully sometime next week they'll be here. Then put the truck back together and rip it up with some gnarly bashing again
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    So I have decided to try RPM Axle Carriers. I found that there is nothing wrong with stock carriers, except for me the bearings never seemed to last.

    Here is a comparison of stock bearings to RPM.
    RPM left / Stock right



    As you can see the RPM bearings have a lot more surface area...in theory these bearings should be able to take more forces that they are subjected to over stock. Greater surface area = less stress on the bearing.

    Here is a comparison of stock axle carriers to RPM.

    RPM left / Stock right



    I have heard that the pivot balls pull out of the RPM axles, it is a weak point of theirs. Thanks to danielhr77 for this bit of info...I took the stock axle carriers and removed the retainer ring with a xacto knife.



    I then pressed the retainer ring onto the RPM axle carrier (knuckle)...it fitted no problem and is a press fit.



    I then fitted the stock pivot ball dust boots and rings along with the rubber caps that fit into the pivot ball cap onto the RPM axle carriers.




    I haven't tested these axles yet but will give some feed back after a few hard bashing sessions
    I did this trick on my revo but took apart my e maxx and they don't have the ring!

  27. #27
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    I keep breaking the pin in the losi drive cup part number losb3541. Do you know something else that will work or how to reinforce them and how well did the ti nitride gears work after? I am thinking about getting a set but don't know if they are worth the extra cash.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by hickbran View Post
    I keep breaking the pin in the losi drive cup part number losb3541. Do you know something else that will work or how to reinforce them and how well did the ti nitride gears work after? I am thinking about getting a set but don't know if they are worth the extra cash.
    i had that same problem, i just used hpi part 86054 for the driveline and hpi part 86277 much more durable.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by hickbran View Post
    I keep breaking the pin in the losi drive cup part number losb3541. Do you know something else that will work or how to reinforce them
    Quote Originally Posted by black67stang View Post
    anyway ive done the lst diffs in mine and use the traxxas center cvd shafts just like yours. losi yoke, small washer on each side with heat shink to hold the pin in. well after a few end over end tumbles i noticed i wasnt getting power to the rear diff so it was fwd. when i got home and tore it down i noticed the one of my summit drive shaft cv joint had broken also. so my guess was cv broke put a bind on the drive line and snapped the pin in the yoke. i got the center shaft out and the heat shrink around the yoke is fine except for a small little hole where it looks like the pin came out. it literaly looks the the pin ate its way out or burned a hole through it. and i havent found any remains of the pin.
    I haven't had any issues with mine...I recently inspected front and rear centre drive shafts and they look as good as the day they were modded. I will open up the centre skid plate again and have a look but on examination last week my centre drive shafts were showing no signs of wear. Their is no slop either in the Losi yolk.

    Did you guys grease that area?? It could be a possibility for failure...what else comes to mind is that maybe your diff is not sitting right in the bulk causing the centre drive shaft to be at a slight angle and putting stress on the Losi yolk...IDK; I'm thinking out loud.


    Quote Originally Posted by crashproff View Post
    i had that same problem, i just used hpi part 86054 for the driveline and hpi part 86277 much more durable.
    Once again, thanks for the info mate...this may be the solution to the above problem ...I may explore this avenue if my centre drive shafts fail .
    Rock n Rolla !

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashproff View Post
    i had that same problem, i just used hpi part 86054 for the driveline and hpi part 86277 much more durable.
    i was wondering how would the cup connect to the end of the losi diff because on the diff there is no hole for a screw to go through but instead a grub screw to hold it in place and would it be the same length?

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    I did this trick on my revo but took apart my e maxx and they don't have the ring!
    We noticed that on my mates eMaxx...his pivot balls kept popping out on the front axle carriers (knuckles)...on closer inspection we noticed it didn't have the steel ring.

    The eMaxx axle carriers part #5334 and the eRevo #5334R...the other thing we noticed is that the eMaxx outer bearing is a 6x12mm whereas the eRevo is a 6x13mm.

    We ended up putting the eRevo axle carriers on all 4's...his never had a problem since.
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  32. #32
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    Exclamation ESC and BEC

    I have decided to run a single servo in my rebuild. I had a go last night at installing an external CC BEC. First thing I did was neaten up the battery wires. I must admit it was a pet hate of mine the way they originally were as seen below.



    I found that the wires to the left of the ESC and the wire that connected the batteries in series was to long for my liking. For some time now I have been wanting to shorten and neaten this up and thought what a perfect opportunity it would be while installing the BEC.

    I came across a few methods to install the BEC but decided to follow this method of powering the BEC from a single battery.



    IMO this made for a neater installation of the BEC for me. Overall I shortened the wires on the left of the ESC by 5cm and installed the BEC to the new battery connectors as per the above schematic. The wires on the right I cut off directly behind the old connector and soldered on a new connector in its place.



    I am happy with the outcome and don't have this long wire looping up when the batteries are connected anymore, especially on the left.

    I still need to either cut the red wire or remove it from the ESC plug that connects to the RX so that my ESC is solely powered now from the CC BEC. I have also set my CC BEC to 6V with the castle field programmer as my new servo requires a continuous 6V supply to have optimal function.
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  33. #33
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    Exclamation Castle creations motor

    I have noticed this from all the bashing I have been doing. I think this has happened from the truck landing on its roof, I have some how managed to cut the sheath of the motor wiring. This has happened on the red and white wires that run to the MMM ESC and have now exposed the core.



    The way I went about trying to fix the problem was to heat shrink the exposed areas. I used Dia.10mm heat shrink and cut 40mm long and slipped over each wire to the motor end.



    I am happy the way it turned out as the heat shrink is a tight fit covering the exposed areas.
    Rock n Rolla !

  34. #34
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    I have the same issue there...mines worst the white wire is exposed too close to cover you can see bare wire
    ERBE,Losi 8ight,Slash 4X4

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brewers74 View Post
    I have the same issue there...mines worst the white wire is exposed too close to cover you can see bare wire
    What about if you wrapped some gorilla tape around the exposed area as best you could. One nice and neat tight wrap on each wire and then heat shrinked around the gorilla tape...its just a thought, IDK, it may work .
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    i wrapped some material tape around the three motor wires which i use on my automotive engine harnesses
    it feels like heavy duty thin denim and sticks much better than electrical tape

  37. #37
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    Exclamation Losi LST2 bulk head mod

    I had 3 attempts at modding the bulkhead to accommodate the Losi LST2 diff. I wasn't happy with my first 2 attempts as I felt I dremeled away far to much material and penetrated right trough the bulkheads.

    I followed revoroller and mistercrashes thread on the Losi LST2 mod.

    Below you can see the rear bulkhead where I dremeled material away. On my third attempt I realised you could fit the Losi diff in without actually penetrating through the bulkhead.



    The front bulkhead required a lot more dremelng and removal of material.



    I took my time and because it was my third time I knew exactly where to dremel. The problem I came across on the rear bulkhead is that because I used my old bulkheads I didn't realise at the time that the rear holes were stripped.

    I fixed that with using Du-bro 6/32 brass inserts



    & here they are installed into the bulkhead and epoxied in place.



    They are a nice snug fit...I will need to test them now and see if they hold up to serious bashing.
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-05-2012 at 08:51 AM. Reason: i
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    The problem I came across on the rear bulkhead is that because I used my old bulkheads I didn't realise at the time that the rear holes were stripped.

    I fixed that with using Du-bro 6/32 brass inserts



    & here they are installed into the bulkhead and epoxied in place.



    They are a nice snug fit...I will need to test them now and see if they hold up to serious bashing.
    This is a continuation from post #25

    Some feedback on using the brass inserts...they worked wonders and the BHC screw never worked itself loose once; the BHC screw was secured using blue loctite.



    As seen above, they look as good as the day they were done...unfortunately my mate managed to break the rear bulkhead for me. I am going to try dremel the inserts out and keep for a rainy day if possible; they were epoxied in place tho .
    Rock n Rolla !

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Exclamation Losi LST2 diff mod

    I replaced the Losi drive cups with the traxxas drive axial for the eRevo. Part no.5454.



    I hack sawed the threaded end off and then grinded down so that the drive axial was a length of 22.25mm. I also chamfered the sharp edge so it was nice and smooth fit in the diff cup.



    I used 50K diff lube in the front and a mixture of 50K and 30K in the rear diff cup.



    I filled to the top of the diff cup and removed as much of the air bubbles as practically possible.



    I then fitted the ring gear and tightened 3 of the 4 screws leaving the 4th one out to allow excess diff lube to escape through the open screw hole.



    I then greased the ring gear with Mobil 1 red grease and closed up the diff case.



    Once together the gear mesh was relatively smooth..I tried various places shimming around the diff cup and found that no shimming was necessary. The only place I found necessary to shim was on the pinion gear externally where the centre drive shaft connects to the pinion.



    I used these shims Kyosho 8x10mm Shim Set. Part #KYO96644a, s they came in 3 different thicknesses...0.1, 0.2 and 0.3



    I found when attaching the centre drive shaft to the pinion that each diff took 1 .0.2 shim which made the ring and pinion a nice and smooth mesh.

    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-05-2012 at 09:36 AM. Reason: I can't spell
    Rock n Rolla !

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Exclamation Traxxas centre CVD mod for Losi diff

    Credit goes to revoroller as I followed his mod as to re-using the traxxas centre cvd.

    I removed the red aluminium ring so I could remove the cup as it was not necessary for the mod. These are the parts I used to complete the mod.



    Losi CV Driveshaft Rebuild Set #LOSB3505
    Losi Front or Rear Diff/Differential Drive Yoke #LOSB3541
    Du-Bro Flat Washer 2.5mm #DUB2108
    Dia. 13mm Heat shrink cut 12mm long





    The 2.5mm washer went on each side of cvd in the yoke to close the space and made a nice snug fit. I then heat shrinked around the yoke to keep the pin that is holding the cvd in place

    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 09-05-2012 at 09:50 AM. Reason: I can't spell
    Rock n Rolla !

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