its ok, not that great. very easy to setup though. looking for something else right now
It may not be working correctly because you have it functioning on the wrong axis and installed in a less than ideal location. I have the same gyro on my XO1 and it tracks straight as an arrow with consistent 100-108mph runs. Once you get it set-up properly try setting the gain to around 25-33%.
Last edited by AnthonyV; 09-11-2012 at 02:31 PM.
E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4
@ Anthony: can you show a pic, where and how you installed it? Thanks!
I also thought the Gyro has to be horizontal, like in a Heli, but I am sure FoD tested it before running...but I dont know that Gyro...
What Gyro is that again?
You have some video going 100mp/h?
Last edited by lcaa; 09-11-2012 at 02:52 PM.
I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow.
I've got about 10 video's on youtube of it clocking 98 & 99mph. I seemed to have hit a brick wall at this speed but later found out it was because the settings in the ESC were not correct and not allowing full throttle on the motor (I purchased the XO1 used originally). Since resetting the ESC I can consistently clock 100-108mph over and over and over again on foam tires. I expect the stock slicks to do a few MPH faster... but I got sick of wasting my time trying to gain a few mph here and there.
I purchased another XO1 and am now shooting for 125-130mph. By the way, all of my speeds have been verified with radar gun AND gps. Telemetry values don't count with me, lol.
E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4
Thanks Anthony, I will try to find those vids.
125/ 130 mp/h...WOW...80mp/h is what I did with 23Z and it is crazy fast- running out of space and Radio range though...
EDIT: I have found your 98mp/h vid- impressive!! That is with 34Z I guess?
I cant find anything between 23Z and 34Z...
On such a small road- pretty cool/ lucky:-)) Good driving skills!
What setup for +120 mph??
Last edited by lcaa; 09-11-2012 at 04:03 PM.
This thread reminds me of another dead end thread. Where the "inventor" fought everybody about his superior theories(nitro background) then never tested anything and ended up selling it before he learned how to solder it together.LOLz http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...t=water+cooled
lcaa rcmonster.com has all pinion gears. Look under rcmonster parts. Go to page five. Theres the Mod 1 pinions. Just got my 19 pinion from them a week or so ago. Hope this helps.
AnthonyV the gyro is mounted using gws instructions - Page1 (http://www.gwsus.com/images/note%20book/e_pg03-1.jpg) Also from my experience in R/C helis, gyros should be as close to center of rotational axis as possible, which wouldn't the center of the two front wheels be it? Would be cool to see your setup on this one though
My "inventions" ideas, were all tested with my own money, and cars. With years of experience in mechanical engineering, working with others what you would call "inventors" I call them engineers, we deal with what you're probably driving right now so
BTW, my ideas you're more than welcome to take and use them and I've got plenty more to come. Would love to see some of yours though..... and opinions don't count
Last edited by FartOfDoom; 09-11-2012 at 09:12 PM.
AnthonyV The problem I'm having with is the setup adjustment trimmer. Cant seem to get the thing to stay red/green after resetting the transmitter and car.
If you want make one for your XO1, Let me know and I can help you
Link about My water cooled slash:
dude i have to give it to you man, that looks freakin awesome!!! love the front radiator. that would look awesome on my car. but would there be enough room on the underside of the motor though?
After taking my basher out today on a bettter road than in front of my house of course. I put new tires on it , stuck the high speed splitter on and installed the 34 pinion in it. At 85 mph it started darting all over the road from very small bumps. It ended up in the ditch. It didn't hurt anything. So I just did your teflon tape to the shoulder screws trick to it now and began thinking about how to get rid of that slop in the A arm and pins. Since I don't have them shock shafts ... yet. I decided for a temporary fix I spray painted them pins. I actually had to pound the pins in with a hammer. Pretty much zero slop in them now. But I'm going to get them shock pins and #28 drill bit. Thanks again for your great ideas.
With that said I do have an idea for you to try out. It's called using "proper grammar and punctuation." While I have used some of your 'inventions' I find it very hard to decipher sometimes what you are typing. Take a few more minutes and try to type things so that they are easier to read over. In the end it helps everyone out so we as a community don't come across as being illiterate.
We know you are smart due to your 'inventions'. We also know you are smart because you are a self-proclaimed engineer. This may be why you are having such a hard time figuring your gyro out. Because most engineers seem to lacking as being mechanically inclined. I know this because I am myself a mechanical engineer and 90% of engineers can't even change a spark plug in a lawn mower. Take a look over those gyro instructions again. You are working on a car and not a helicopter and as another member pointed out you have your axis of rotation set-up incorrectly. Use your mechanical engineering education to read directions again. Just because you have 4,800 views does not make you a genius.
I have not seen this gyro before, but I would say try turning it 90 degree's and give that a try. Again, it's all in reading the directions.
Oh get over yourself queef
[IMG]gryo1jpeg[/IMG]I have the same gyro. Anthony v is right about the axis. It looks like it is mounted wrong. If you read on to page two, you would mount it like it was on a helicopter. I can understand how it can be misleading. GWS needs better instructions. I mounted mine on the center brace of my Xo-1. One thing I have learned in my 10+ years in this hobby is that you can always learn from someone, from the beginner to the expert. So to all the engineers, take a moment and see if the person has a point. I know in my job, I am always having to correct my engineers. Just because we don't have degrees, doesn't mean that we don't know what we are talking about. I am sure all of us have done some R&D with RCs. All of this " I have this many views or I do this for a living" really is not call for. To quote another member on this site " If you don't have anything productive to say, then don't hit the post button and move on."
his is how I mounted my gryo.
A while back you guys were talking about trying to get rid of bump steer. What have you guys done to help with this issue ??
Not going to lie, my grammar and punctuation isn’t all that great, yet. But given a short amount of time to learn a completely new language, being the only source of income, school, gym and being a father, it’s the best I could do for now. But still though, thanks for your advice. I’ll do my best.
All my modifications to the car they’re quite simple, all I’m doing is adding minor fixes to the car to enhance its drivability. I mean seriously? You need to proof that bearing’s smoother than bushing? Now since it seems some of my modifications a bit advance, would you like a video of how replacing a bushing with bearing helps the steering block? How about a little description instead so I don’t have to waste my time?
A bushing is just a round tube that’s made out of material that reduces sliding friction, like Teflon or oil impregnated bronze. The shaft rotates my sliding on the inside of the bushing. The friction is higher than a ball bearing, where the parts contact by rolling. A ball bearing is like a car rolling along a highway. A bushing would be like dragging it sideways. Of course, bushing has lower friction than rubber on concrete, but hopefully you get the idea. Bushings are inexpensive and are used where the amount of friction or wear is not that important, like our castor and steering block. A ball bearing is a hardened, spherical ball that spins between two surfaces and reduces friction. A bushing is a removable sleeve or liner for a bearing, or a connection used to reduce the size of an opening. Bushings have both static and dynamic surfaces.
Now how about doing something as simple as a fan to reduce heat? Would you like for me to explain how a fan works and how it forces air through to dissipate the heat coming from the motor and electronic speed control (ESC)? For those who have trouble understanding how that magical solution works let me know.
Since you do not have one of these gyro yourself, why don’t you go and purchase one, or ask somebody who does and maybe you’d understand what I’m about to talk about. It seems these gyros work on all axis. No matter which direction you turn it, the functionality of it is still the same from what I’ve seen. So even if you turn it 90 degrees or 91.5 degrees yes, it will work just fine and again, this is only from what I’ve seen. Now let’s use your engineering head of yours and imagine this.
Hot summer day, with heat building up from inside of the body and the adhesive of the double sided tape is wearing off. Since you’ve decided to mount the gyro on its side, (just like in the picture of the manual) like a T to the shock tower and that thing decided to come loose. What’s going to happen while driving when that thing’s airborne?
That’s why I’ve asked to see where and how AnthonyV mounted his. Maybe he might have found a better mounting location for the gyro. Just in case if you’ve miss-read one of my earlier post I did said that the gyro is ok, it’s the setting up to the transmitter that I’m having trouble with. So with your reading and comprehending skill read post #88. While with the front shock tower being the axis of the car, mounting the gyro on its back with as much adhesive holding it down as possible, to me is the best solution I could think of. And yes, I know I’m wrong with the mounting position of the gyro, but I would rather be wrong with something as that than sorry to crash a thousand dollar car cause of a piece of tape. I’m all about safety and least amount of risk possible.
Like Miles Long said “If you don't have anything productive to say, then don't hit the post button and move on.” I’m here with what little bit of free time I have to shave with everyone my modifications. You don’t like it? No one’s forcing to read. You like my mods? Cool, I’m not asking for anything in return.
Btw, sorry for taking forever to respond to your little spectacle there, I’m sure you have lots of fun going on forums and try and make yourself sounds like a smart…. Some of us adults have something called a job and responsibilities.
Now back to the subject shall we?
Last edited by FartOfDoom; 10-06-2012 at 04:34 AM.
Sorry guys it took so long for the bump-steer mod. Been crazy busy with work and school so I didn't have any free time to post.
Here's the fix that I've made. Cut a piece of carbon fiber and attach it to the steering block. It's 2.5mm thick x 8mm wide x 23mm long. Distance between the two holes to mount onto the steering block is 5.38mm. And distance from outside hole of the steering block to the mounting hole of the linkage is 12mm. Overall steering reduction is about 35%, sensitivity down by around a grip load .
Left side is with mod, right side is without.
I was too lazy to put it on my setup station to show that it has no bump steer.
The mod is messing with my ackermann a bit so I'll be making a new set to fix that soon.... Hopefully. This set will be thrown away so if anyone wants them they're yours.
Next will be Savox high speed high torque servo with Castle 10 amp bec. Then finally a high speed video. Fingers cross
Last edited by FartOfDoom; 10-06-2012 at 04:45 AM.
BTW anyone interested in a aluminum heat sink and fan combo for the xo-1?
Pictures please !!!! What do you mean its messing with the ackermann ?? If your throwing them pieces out I'll take them. I would love to try them. Is the heat sink for the ESC ??
See how the two wheels they're almost at the same turning angle?
It suppose to look like this
I actually did a internet search to figure out exactly ackermann was. I suppose it doesn't want to turn now huh ??
it's actually not that bad to drive. the front tires wear out a bit quicker than it normally would cause of the two sides turning at a different center point. if you want it pm me your info and I'll have it ship to ya. try it out and lmk what you think. I don't have as much time to do the testing now that im back in school.
Last edited by FartOfDoom; 10-06-2012 at 11:26 PM.
Yesterday I was thinking of a quick and easy way to get rid of the slop with them shoulder screws besides your bearings trick. I was thinking about your teflon tape trick that you did to the bellcranks. That wouldn't work to well. LOL !! Anyway I cut some little strips of tin foil. About 1 1/2 wraps or so around the shoulder. Be careful screwing it in so it doesn't come unwrapped. This might sound kinda crude but I went through 7 battery charges yesterday. I went to check how they held up last night and the screw came out without the foil. The foil stayed inside the hole and kinda looks like a little sleeve. Not sure how long this will hold up but I could tell the difference night and day. Still going to do what you did someday with the bearings when I have time. When you did the bearings did you use them shoulder screws yet or what did you use ??
Man ... anyone that hasn't done the shock shaft retrofit should spend a hour doing it. I did this yesterday and I have to admit that It took me a little while to get used to how the car handles now. With that slop gone you don't nearly have to use the steering as much. Its really a different feeling. I can now zip zag between bumps. Which was unheard of before. Thanks again FartOfDoom !!!
NP XO-1 NUT. Glad the mod helps
nothing crazy here just a simple mod to keep the dirt out of the mamba 1717. been driving my car around super dusty streets and got tire of cleaning the bearing almost everyday.
what i did was added a 6x10x.2mm shim to the motor shaft and a piece of fuel tubing to hold it in place to keep the dirt out of the bearing. also put in 2x 4x4mm set screw to the top and bottom of the motor.
I'm liking them fins !!!! Can't wait !!!
LOL you wont be disappointed. Never have to worry about motor over heating again.
Got the heat sink today. Took maybe 10 minutes to put it on. It pops right on the motor. You have to slide the thermocoupler to the front or back of the motor. Theres plenty of room for it yet as the heat sink isn't the full length of the motor. I powered it off my receiver so it wasn't running full potential. I'm running a 21 tooth pinion so the motor isn't under alot of stress. But anyway I ran it back and forth down the road 75mph give or take hard on the brakes turn around and so on and so forth. Did this for about 20 minutes and the highest I got the temps on the motor up to was 102. Very nicely done FartOfDoom !! Very Nice !!! I highly recommend it.
Last edited by XO-1 NUT; 11-17-2012 at 04:41 PM.
I cant find anything on the cooling fins mod...you used to have 2 fans over the motor, right?
He has them on ebay. Very nice mod for $30.00 !! I'm going to pick up another one for my other car.
Sorry, 6 of 48 pages on Ebay I did check- no luck- do you have a link, please?
Thanks, it works!
Last edited by XO-1 NUT; 11-19-2012 at 04:10 PM.