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  1. #1
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    And the Parts start comming in for a Ground up Build

    Alright, so I've been ordering stuff all over to do a ground up built Jato.

    I've ordered

    TRX Chassis upgrade
    TRX Blue Alloy GTR Shocks
    TRX transmission
    TRX Jato CVD kit
    TRX Top Plate (It will be custom painted)
    TRX clear Jato Body custom painted
    TRX gas tank & line with fuel stop

    GH Silver alloy Bulkhead
    GH Silver Front Shock Tower
    GH Silver alloy Hubs & Carries all around
    GH Silver alloy Brake arms

    RPM Blue arms all around
    RPM Black Bumper

    HR Dual SS Disk & Carbon pad Brake kit
    HR HS complete gear set
    HR Silver alloy rear Shock Tower
    HR Silver alloy steering linkage & servo saver.

    Custom Wheels I have to show when they arrive.

    __________________________________________________

    Need opinions on a few items

    I need turnbuckles but do not want the TRX red kit. I plan to run RPM blue rod ends all around, just need some options for the bar in silver.

    What would be the best screw kit hop up?

    Is there a better wheelie bar option that let's me run the optional rear bumper that does not have a battery box?

    What's the good servos to run? I don't need Ultra TQ like with the Savage, I'm looking for the point it becomes overkill.

    I need to decide what rear wheel hex in blue alloy to run and blue alloy front spindles.

    Id like a engine mount in blue alloy with more cooling and beefy

    I'm going to order a Acer Racing Ceramic Nitride bearing kit

    I want to get Silver alloy horns, but need to figure out what servo & then what horn will fit, please help on this.

    I intend on running a Buku Clutch & ERCM pipe with a Vantage header
    __________________________________________________ _____________

    I have a few TX I can use , but I was planning on getting the Flysky system to try it out.

    As for what to power the beast, I've not fully decided on a modified 3.3, modified OS21TM or a modified Nova 2.5

    I might have to settle on a modded 3.3 simply for budget reasons, but either an OS or Nova will make its way to power the Truck.

    ______________________________________________

    Any "must have" things I'm missing? I'm considering a New Era top plate brace and roll cage, I ordered the HR tower with rear wing mount ready. But not sure if the cage will conflict with the wing mount.

    ________________________________________________

    I will keep this thread updated as parts arrive, please post up opinions and suggestions.
    Last edited by Assassin; 07-12-2012 at 11:25 AM.

  2. #2
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    That's a nice shopping list. I use the Lunsford titanium turnbuckles and Savox sc-1258tg servos. Both are pricey but worth it imo. New era models has a nice wheelie bar that doesn't use the battery box. I also run the buku clutch with the brass composite shoes. It's a great clutch. I have about a gallon on it and it still looks brand new. Buku recommends using a vented cb with it. So if you don't have one you might want to pick one up. Let us know how that ercm pipe works out. I've only heard good things about it. It's probably gonna be my next upgrade.
    Jato 3.3, Revo .28 JL Max, Nitro Stampede 3.3

  3. #3
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    First to arive





    GH bulkhead
    GH front carriers
    GH brake arms

    RPM arms & Bumper

    HR brake kit

    I also ordered a RPM head protector, but its for a 2.5 so I'll off it at the LHS.

    Here are some mock up shots of the front end




  4. #4
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    Thanks for the great info, just what I needed. Thanks also, been denting the pocket up. This is what I like to do, Build up RCs. I do hope I don't get too much extra weight and hope the 10% lighter chassis and RPM plastics help keep the weight down.

    I also ordered the HR anti squat mount.

    I figure springs I'll have to look into when I weight the finished truck and test run a set or 2.

  5. #5
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    What truck is that in the last pic?
    Jato 3.3, Revo .28 JL Max, Nitro Stampede 3.3

  6. #6
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    It's a Savage XL, put a load into that getting all the alloy hop ups re-anodized black, and runs a PL Slash Flo-Tek body.



    I'm still working on it. Hope to be done soon, I got a little side tracked with building the Jato, I guess that's just how it goes.

    Hopefully some more parts will come in tomorrow for the Jato. I really want to get the chassis to see how its going to look. I think everything going on is quality parts no Integy anywhere. I did get a simple Integy roll bar but that's a cheap safety net for the Jato I'm keeping as stock as possible.

    I'm glad to hear NE has a wheelie bar that don't use the battery box, I'm going to look at it now.
    Last edited by Assassin; 07-12-2012 at 03:36 PM.

  7. #7
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    Hi,
    you can use the TBR rear bumper and wheely bar:

    <-- If you slow down, you're a wimp! -->

  8. #8
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    That looks alright what's that TRB? Can't find any info and the TRX Jato is different.

    Thanks for chiming in, looks like 2 options to consider now for a wheeliebar.

    Anybody know if the HR wheelie bar accepts TRX alloy wheels.

  9. #9
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    That is a Jato, he has it converted to electric though. TBR+ T-Bone Racing, here's their site.

  10. #10
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    Thanks, looks good. I'm guessing you like how it performs? Good stable riding out wheelies?

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    looks nice items in general Assassin what's your plan racing or just bashing around with ultra good looking jato
    hope you'll enjoy it even more with it's new look later. Shoot us some photage later.

  12. #12
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    No racing, just bashing & speed & thanks very much. The Jato has earned my respect as a fun quality RC, maybe not a begginers choice but great for somebody looking to have a rocket Truck that takes skill to handle.

    I'm keeping my RTR as close to stock as possible fore baseline comparisons.

    Im obsessed with checking the mail now lol eager to get it all together.

    Bottom of the bulk has a sweet GH logo engraved, check it out

    Last edited by Assassin; 07-12-2012 at 09:36 PM.

  13. #13
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    FYI when u install the brakes put some loctite on the grub screw.
    Jato 3.3, Revo .28 JL Max, Nitro Stampede 3.3

  14. #14
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    If tony screws makes a kit for the jato that might be your best choice. There screwz are hard to strip
    And for turnbuckles if you have the spare $$ look into the Lunsford titanium ones

  15. #15
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    I'll check Tony and those buckles, they seem to have a few guys suggesting them, that is good.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    Assassin, FYI for one reason or another, the jato was the first nitro car for many i know, the started the hobby of rc cars with this car.

    oh yeh, check this thread Assassin to see how much i love my jato

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ve-of-my-truck
    Last edited by Desert JATO; 07-13-2012 at 06:30 AM.

  17. #17
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    I can see many kick off a RC love affair with the Jato. I also see many Jato driving straight into walls by newbs over simple mistakes. I wouldn't recommend starting off in RC with a Jato unless you have a real good grasp of the hobby before going in. Doesn't say its impossible, just the Jato is a handful out the box.

    I can see the love, I can relate

  18. #18
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    HR rear Shock tower & HR rear arm mount came in today. Bizarre Hobbies on eBay ship FAST! I ordered them.last weekend and I'm in Canada it came from the US.


  19. #19
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    Hi,
    in my opinion the Tbone racing bumper+wheely bar is a must: first of all it has a lifetime guarantee (tested and approved ), this is not the case of all Hot Racing crap products
    As this wheely bar is large and flexible, it permits to run long wheelings without crash.
    More over this rear bumper is very well protecting the rear of the jato.

    I consider it as a must have for bashing.

    Salut
    <-- If you slow down, you're a wimp! -->

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    that's right . i would say that these parts will hold at high speed crash except the parts that made from aluminum .. it could be bent under extreme heavy hits.

  21. #21
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    I disagree on the alloy giving out. Based on experience with running over my RS4 with front and rear wheels of a small SUV. The Alloy was fine and saved my RS4 from certain death. All that broke was the gas tank, front CF shock tower & a plastic pipe I had on temporarily while waiting on gaskets. I also lost connection with no fail safe went full stern into a curb and only scratched the engine head when it landed after the impact.

    It's about using it in key areas and providing a weak point. One cant just add alloy all over and expect it to be tougher. Using it in key areas can make your truck tougher. Its one of the reasons I love rpm arms, great flex point. Now keep in mind I'm used to bashing 12lbs Savage Trucks backflipping on fences and jumping at skate parks, hills fields etc... Even 12 foot barrel rolls landing on the lid. Alloy don't bend as easy as you may think if its quality. I have good experience with HR CF & Alloy, and relie on GH for critical parts. This is not Integy tin can alloy.
    Last edited by Assassin; 07-13-2012 at 03:09 PM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Assassin View Post
    I disagree on the alloy giving out. Based on experience with running over my RS4 with front and rear wheels of a small SUV. The Alloy was fine and saved my RS4 from certain death. All that broke was the gas tank, front CF shock tower & a plastic pipe I had on temporarily while waiting on gaskets. I also lost connection with no fail safe went full stern into a curb and only scratched the engine head when it landed after the impact.

    It's about using it in key areas and providing a weak point. One cant just add alloy all over and expect it to be tougher. Using it in key areas can make your truck tougher. Its one of the reasons I love rpm arms, great flex point. Now keep in mind I'm used to bashing 12lbs Savage Trucks backflipping on fences and jumping at skate parks, hills fields etc... Even 12 foot barrel rolls landing on the lid. Alloy don't bend as easy as you may think if its quality. I have good experience with HR CF & Alloy, and relie on GH for critical parts. This is not Integy tin can alloy.
    I totally agree. My Rustler is just about 100% aluminum and we have never bent any of the aluminum parts and it has been bashed pretty hard. I only used quality aluminum parts from RD Racing and FLM. The other day my receiver failed and it went WOT for about 300 feet and the rear wheel/a-arm hit a pole. I was expecting the a-arm to be bent. The only damage was 1 shock pulled out of the shock end, the drive shaft pulled out of the axle stub, and the a-arm mount cracked. As things get broken on the Jato, they will be replaced with quality aluminum parts.
    Rustler-3.3,Revo-Hyper .21,Jato-3.3
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  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    the alloy parts comes in a different levels of quality and rigidity. in the past almost everyone were buying the alloy a-arms both back and front because of it's shiny fancy colors, later most of them discovered that medium to high crashes will only cause these a arms to bent.
    tower shocks these days made of high end 7075 or 6065 alloy craft a like metal, and that's why it holds, but if you notice that RC manufacturers doesn't and WILL NOT equip their products with front a arms made of aluminum and the reason why is clear .

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desert JATO View Post
    but if you notice that RC manufacturers doesn't and WILL NOT equip their products with front a arms made of aluminum and the reason why is clear .
    The reason why is cost. Plastic is cheap. They will sell a lot more at $400 than they will at $700. They would also lose money in replacement part sales because people would not be breaking as many parts.
    Rustler-3.3,Revo-Hyper .21,Jato-3.3
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  25. #25
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    Alloy arms and plastic bulks would equal a lot of broken bulks. Alloy arms I've seen run quite well if quality parts & coupled by parts to compliment them. Alloy arms need alloy bulks. In the Case of the Savage alloy arms = alloy bulks and stronger TVPs to handle the alloy bulks. My method it to create a flex point in the arms using RPM arms. Stock plastics usually break too easy and I lose dog bones, or they get bent. RPM arms take a crazy beating and are usually lighter then stock.

    I believe manufactures dont sell alloy arms because if used on their own they compromise the strength of the vehicle, they can't really sell them and say you "need" to also buy these other parts to keep the integrity of the vehicle, and these other parts for those to work etc, aftermarket companies have no issue with this, disclaimers. The man will often times add many alloy hop ups for areas where it can help and most often become a drop in replacements. This gives them after sales revenue. I don't mind as if they arnt profitable, I don't get cool new RCs to collect and modify.

    Here is a clip of my RS4 getting run over.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wNE...e_gdata_player

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbflash View Post
    The reason why is cost. Plastic is cheap. They will sell a lot more at $400 than they will at $700. They would also lose money in replacement part sales because people would not be breaking as many parts.
    that could be true but when a price of an RC kit go beyond 700$ adding another 50-80$ isn't an issue to the total price.
    manufacturers knew that alloy A-arms will bent after first crash that's why they don't use them on their high end kits or RTR's.


    Quote Originally Posted by Assassin View Post
    Alloy arms ...

    Here is a clip of my RS4 getting run over.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wNE...e_gdata_player
    i believe that your front A arm survived that his because the SUV ran over in a high speed , it didn't take the crash as if it face to face.
    The major RC maker made buggys that participates in IFMR world champion, and non of them tried one day to place an alloy a arm because they knew that it will not hold and continous jumps and nose down crashs .
    ... at the end, this is only my opinion.
    Last edited by Desert JATO; 07-14-2012 at 04:14 AM.

  27. #27
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    [QUOTE=Desert JATO;5234824]that could be true but when a price of an RC kit go beyond 700$ adding another 50-80$ isn't an issue to the total price.

    50-80$ is alot of money when your selling hundreds of thousands of units.

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    no brian . when an RC manufacturer place a tag price of 700$+ for a Kit only, they'll don't look with concern at 80$ more to add an aluminum a arms. they already exceeds the limits going beyond 500$ for kit... 80$ over a 700$ kit isn't that much i can see.

  29. #29
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    yea but 50$ not spent is 50$ earned man any way you look at it.

  30. #30
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    Well I got upsetting news at the LHS. The Shocks, GH front hubs and rear carriers are backordered, so is the TRX chassis. I scrambled around online and only found a place with one chassis left so I snatched it up. I ordered some blue all alloy shocks from GPM & Silver hinge pin braces also GPM. I opted to order the front c hubs and rear carriers from HR.

    Im ordering the Lundsford turnbuckle and hinge pin kit, need help figuring out what rod ends from RPM are closest to stock. Anybody used them yet? Thanks for the help.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Assassin View Post
    Well I got upsetting news at the LHS. The Shocks, GH front hubs and rear carriers are backordered, so is the TRX chassis. I scrambled around online and only found a place with one chassis left so I snatched it up. I ordered some blue all alloy shocks from GPM & Silver hinge pin braces also GPM. I opted to order the front c hubs and rear carriers from HR.

    Im ordering the Lundsford turnbuckle and hinge pin kit, need help figuring out what rod ends from RPM are closest to stock. Anybody used them yet? Thanks for the help.
    Great choice with the Lunsford
    Rpm only makes 2 sizes of rod ends. Long and short. You should be able to tell from the pics on there site which will be closest to stock

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desert JATO View Post
    A-arms will bent after first crash that's why they don't use them on their high end kits or RTR's.
    Really? In 6 years of running all aluminum a arms I have never bent one of them and I've had some major crashes. If you've never used them, how can you come here and talk about things you don't know? Just because you've read about people bending low quality parts, doesn't make it true for all parts. I run top quality aluminum arms and they have stood up to everything I have put them through. The company that made them even warranties them against breaking and bending for life. If you break or bend one, it gets replaced for the price of shipping.
    Rustler-3.3,Revo-Hyper .21,Jato-3.3
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  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    Pbflash, calm down just calm i do believe you, but can you give me one reason why icon rc manufacturures " avoids " putting aluminum a-arms on their high end kits?

    breaking anything is something relative here. in more than five years i crashed only 4 times, and in one crash i needed to replace a single front turnbuckle.

    i'm not against alloy parts, but in certain corners of the car it's not wise to place alumnuim stuff, and that's my opinion and believe.

  34. #34
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    Hi,
    I fully agree with desert JATO.
    One additional point (my english isn't as good enough to understand everything written before...so I'm not sure it has been said) is that the rigidity of aluminium parts is driven some other parts to be broken.
    I mean, some of you said "I never bent my aluminium parts"...ok, but don't you think the fact that on a big crash your parts are not bent, it will "put the pressure" on some other parts of your R/C model, as the chassis or the bulkheads?

    In my opinion and as said by Assassin, aluminium is good for some parts, but the fusible/fuse effect of plastic is a necessity for the good health of an R/C car, especially for off road ones.

    Finally, Assassin said he was satisfied with HR parts... I'm really surprised. I only purchased some parts of this brand for my jatos (not for my other cars) and honestly, except the steel transmission, all was big craps (shock springs, drive bellcrank, sway bar fix,...)...I will never purchase anything from them anymore (has for Integy!!).

    A bientôt les amis
    <-- If you slow down, you're a wimp! -->

  35. #35
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    Assassin,
    I see you're spending quite a lot of money to build a very nice and efficient jato, you will have a very nice car

    Let me predict that your HR rear shock tower will result quickly after few jumps in 2 bent screws on the top fix of your shocks...this is because your shocks are not fixed between 2 parts of the tower, as on the stock one...I had the same problem with the new era rear shock tower

    On the other hand, as soon as you will land a jump on the roof, you will beak your trans. case...this is the result of the "no flexibility" of aluminium towers... 3 solution to this problem (in my opinion the biggest problem on the jato):
    - you run stock tower
    - you run aluminium trans. case (integy)
    - you build your own shock tower with 4 fixing point instead of 2 (check the post concerning my E-jato)

    Bye
    <-- If you slow down, you're a wimp! -->

  36. #36
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    Thanks. I dont jump my Jato, or even intend to. I have a couple RCs I jump and flip, one built just for sending to the moon, cause parts for it are so cheap I don't mind and it flies. My Jato is just for speed and street trashing. I got the HR rear tower cause I intend on using the wing mount and wing. The wing preventing the tower from taking too hard a hit. I'm also going to try and run the NE full cage that should protect the tower and trans coupled with the plastic wing as protection.

    If I do end up messing up the rear trans case, I will consider the options there. I would rather break a few trans case then run a all alloy trans case.

    I've sent some RCs to **** for kicks, and in the rubble my HR stuff holds up. Many don't cover the shock top, the alloy caps should be enough but if not a piece of SS can be bent and drilled to protect them. Custom Trucks sometimes take custom solutions. All part of the fun. I've in the past beat the snot out of some parts that others claimed as weak, didn't take me long to realize just because it failed on them don't mean I'll have the same experience, I've seen 9 times out of 10 issues with RC or failing parts often come down to user error. I've bent more then a few shock screws messing around at the skate park & flipping off fences, screw are pretty cheap, no big deal.

    I feel the back end should be good with the wing and cage, front body mounts are exposed, but not much and I will keep them nylon up front, but with a GH front tower, the GH towers F & R both cover the shock the same as stock.
    Last edited by Assassin; 07-14-2012 at 02:38 PM.

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    Who is running the Lundsford turnbuckles? I need to know what rod end your using.

    Im about to order the RPM rod ends, but stumbled onto this

    http://www.liquidrc.com/index.php?ma...ducts_id=19081

    Would the RPM Lundsford Rod ends for the Jato be better than tge Blue Rod ends. It's also curious the long rods are 26mm while the Lundsford are 19mm. Any thoughts?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Assassin View Post
    Who is running the Lundsford turnbuckles? I need to know what rod end your using.

    Im about to order the RPM rod ends, but stumbled onto this

    http://www.liquidrc.com/index.php?ma...ducts_id=19081

    Would the RPM Lundsford Rod ends for the Jato be better than tge Blue Rod ends. It's also curious the long rods are 26mm while the Lundsford are 19mm. Any thoughts?
    I'm using the rod ends off the Traxxas red turnbuckles. They've been working fine for me. I thought about the rpm ones but i haven't had any problems yet.
    Jato 3.3, Revo .28 JL Max, Nitro Stampede 3.3

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    Are they long rods? Im not sure but those maybe identical to stock, the red turnbuckle being the hop up?

    I'm trying to figure out what would be the best fit on the Jato with Lundsford turnbuckles, RPM long rods or RPM Lundsford rod ends.

  40. #40
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    I agree about the weakness of the design of the HR towers, shock mounting relying on the strength of that screw instead of sandwiching the shock top between two support points. I looked at those and had that very concern when considering bidding on someones lot of aluminum parts on ebay. It reduces weight but at the expense of structural integrity.

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