Picture and info of my e-maxx project
flm chassis,shock towers,arms,axle carriers,skid plates,bumpers
flm uhb's w/customized 1-pc UE drive cups
LST2 axle mod w/16 and 24mm bearings
Integy titanium skids
big bore shocks w/heavy duty copper color springs
axial beadlock wheels w/custom machined beadlock rings
axial terra-izer tires
all HD UE drive cups throughout
Brushless tranny w/ceramic bearings
vg racing roll bar
E-maxx pro graphics body
still need motor,esc,transmitter,reciever
those rims are sick! The whole truck is sick! How much money was put into this thing!?
Emaxx #3903, MERV
That looks awesome!!!
Now it's time for a custom body.
that is one killer looking maxx you have there buddy. nice project.
DEU 8:18 ESV
Need a pic w her topless, n one showin her feet Id like to see the tread pattern. Looks great!
Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
Project...? Lets see some pics of details
I like them tires.. does the Axial beadlocks add any off-set?
Last edited by petraeus; 07-12-2012 at 07:55 AM.
project black & blue. I know,kind of a dumb name for my build, just trying to keep the black and blue color scheme going. Maybe I should call it Black & Blue & Broke. I figure including about 100 bucks in shipping charges. I've got about 1000.00 into this thing. lol and still need all the electric stuff. motor,esc,transmitter,reciever,servo, and batts.
heres a pic of front. Hope I did this right. I got the tires on ebay for around 20.00 US + sh I will try to get some more close up detailed pics and info later, have to get to work now. I Need to remember how to post pics. this has taken me way to long lol.
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 07-12-2012 at 08:58 AM.
Totally sick! Love the tires & wheels!!!!
Slash BL-Pede-E 4Tec-FLM EMAXX-Wraith-AX-10-SCX-10
petraeus, not shore on the offset. looked on axials website but no info on offset. Tires are 144mm o.d. x 89mm wide. and measure 17 3/4 inchs across to the outsides. my other 3908 maxx with stock revo Geode wheels & tires measures the same 17 3/4 inchs to the outsides. hope this helps
Looking good mate
Rock n Rolla !
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 07-12-2012 at 08:22 PM.
Great picts,nice looking truck.Any chane of posting a link to where you got those rims from?Keep us updated on your build.
Suprised you didn't go with aluminum carriers
Emaxx #3903, MERV
Emaxx #3903, MERV
Dude nice looking truck. I really dig those beadlocks. Nothing like some FLM alloy on the truck. I used their arms to.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
How did you manage to fit 24mm bearings - mine looks like this:
And let me recommend the RPM carrier ring mod:
Outside 8x15x5 mm
Inside 15x24x5 mm
Oh, and what kind is the servo saver?
Now install an XO-1 can already
Skidplates, bumpers, and in this discussion, A-Arms and carriers gets to my knowledge excellent reviews. A-arms are soft and flexible, yes - but they are perhaps the best currently on the market for bashing.
Personally I would prefer (impossible to find) Flextek Titanium A-Arms with RPM carriers. The only issue with RPM carriers that I'm aware off, are the pillow balls that in time starts to snap out of the carrier. It's very easy to prevent with the ring mod. Also only RPM offers True-Track.
Tekno carriers are also a real sold option - but no rear true track option.
Hey guys, Thanks for all the compliments, Heres some more info,
I got the rims on e-bay, axial 8-spoke (black) beadlock rings are customed machined. removed 1/16" around I.D. for clearance and some partial radius's for a cool look. then wirebrushed the coating off and scothbright pad to get clean alum. look.
My mistake on parts list, arms,axle carriers,skids,bumpers are rpm.
patraeus, The axles are LST2/XXL, bearings are 8x16x5mm outer and 15x24x5 inner. The reason they look different than yours is I ground a .093 thick metric washer w/15mm hole down to .740 o.d. and then ground a .060 wide x .045 deep corner out of them to hold the rubber boot. and I used a .065 spacer behind the 24mm bearing. This and the fact that the UE drive cups are a bit longer puts the 24mm bearing a little farther in the axle carrier. I then made some .009 thick brass shims to wrap around the bearings to hold them tight. (very tight) I beveled one side of the .009 shims on a deburring wheel as a little lead in angle to get the bearings in. A ***** to get in the first time,but after that the carriers will stretch a bit.
The steel rings from the revo carriers are under the blue boots.
The servo saver is a GH. And just like the gpm alum servo saver i tried on my other maxx. It didn't work very good. It would bind up. After 2 sets of servo gears on the stock servos i put the stock servo back in. The GH one worked kinda smooth in one direction but not the other. My solution, I put a .015 thick nylon washer in between the saver (Look close at my pic) This seems to work great on the bench. Nice and smooth both ways. Had to make hole in nylon washer a little bigger than needed to fit servo shaft to get it to form to the saver and a little bigger than the outer dia. of the saver so it can slide back and forth a little bit and still be in cotact with the nylon. Used the shiny steel color spring. seems strong enough. if not i will use the black spring.
Thanks for the great idea,s and input. It will probably be a while before I can finish. Just had to have a new boiler installed in my house. 4000.00 ouch! but im shure I will find some cheap little mods i can do in the mean time . before i have money to get all the electric stuff.
Thats one good looking truck!! Love it
So the blue colored boot clips are a little bigger than the black clips and fit over the Revo washer and boot?
yup, thats correct. The blue clips are a little bigger and fit over the steel rings.
Sweet... I have the RPM carriers but haven't done the Revo mod to them because I like having the rubber boots over the pivot balls. Guess I'll be getting some Revo washers!
I Decided to ditch the rpm black bumpers for these I had laying around. They were blue anodized. I removed all the blue then sanded with 220 grit sandpaper for that brushed look and colored in the middle parts black w/permanant marker. Did the same on the bottom center skid. I like it.
Then I came up with this idea for holding the rear bumper in place. A couple strong springs Connected to the Tab that sticks out between the cut outs in the skid plate and hooked to the roll bar mounting bracket that goes through the bumper mount.This seems to work good. The stiffer the spring -the harder to install - the stronger it will hold. get the vise grips. A good second line of defence if the zip ties that will also be wrapped around the roll bar mount, bottom part of bumper cut out and through a couple of holes i drilled in the top of the skid plate. I found these old springs laying around and stretched and bent them to fit. I will look for some better ones next time i go to hardware store. Now the front.
Does anybody else have this new style vg racing roll bar. and does the center rear support with the approx. 2" wide little bar on the end fit like this. looks like maybe its supposed to go on top of the bulkhead. but if i bend it up it interferes with the shocks. I think I will put a pc of hd rubber inbetween that little bar and the bulk.(theres a little gap, maybe bend a little for bigger gap and thicker rubber for a shock absorber there. and then zip tie it straight back to the shock tower. perfect spot there.
I think I finaly figured out how to put more than one pic in a post. LOL
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 07-15-2012 at 01:34 PM.
I just checked out one of my favorite web sites. and there back in stock! Oh ya MMM Somehow I had to justify spending $4000.00 on a new boiler, That I wont be able to enjoy until this winter. So I just ordered these.
Good thing I have seperate account for my business. If my wife sees this I will not only be feeding the chickens, but also sleeping with them. LOL I Think I'm having just as much if not more fun building this thing, than I do Playing With my other 3908 (See pics below)
This one has rpm arms,trutrac,axle carriers,shock towers
rc raven or rc damper i forget, roll bar alum chassis braces, and bulks
stock diffs,chassis,and servos,and stock mmm system
Integy evo5 skids that are actually pretty strong and a RB innovations blower that actually cools the motor by about 30 degrees according to an article in the april 2012 edition of RC car action magazine. I Might even put one of these on Project Black & Blue. I think they just look cool. Have to measure and see if one would fit under roll bar. Had to bend roll bar a bit to get it to fit over blower on this one. then zip tied it to the chassis on the sides to keep blower from getting crunched when it lands on the roof. Works good. The ties in the back will break first on impact though. I would put bigger stronger ties but afraid then chassis would break.
guess I messed up on the pics. I got the mmm esc too.
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 07-15-2012 at 03:16 PM.
so you got another emaxx? man if my wife would know i got another i wouldnt be typing this right now hahaha. that looks nice. so which is going to be your basher and racer.
DEU 8:18 ESV
Im thinking his new one looks more like a basher....imo
What aluminum chassis braces are those you got there?
Emaxx #3903, MERV
The one with the blue bumpers was my first maxx I got about 7or 8 months ago. Had to wait till spring to try it. I've been addicted ever since. Its what inspired me to build Project Black & Blue. Before that my last real rc was the radio shack golden arrow about 30 years ago. So you can imagine how impressed i was with these new brushless monsters. there so fast and powerful, makes for real fun with one of them.
The alum chassis braces with the round holes I got on ebay from rcdamper.
Not shure witch one will be basher and racer. So much time & money into my new project almost hate to bash that one. But its definetly the stronger of the two. It will not just sit on the shelf and look pretty either.
why make it strong if your not going to use the strength. I'm picturing it about 3 to 4 feet up and at least 20 feet out. LOL
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 07-15-2012 at 07:10 PM.
yup i can relate to having a radio shack rc back over 20yrs ago though i had a fasttrack car that thing got up for its with a 9.6v i had made for it and almost unbreakable stock like that costed me $50+20 for battery and i ran that thing hard harder than i run these now LOL and never once gave me grief only when the motor went out after 5yrs.
You got some nice projects going on here will be following what you do to them for sure. I dont really see a need for rc's to sit on shelfs waste of money IMO. both your emaxxs are nice and with some good upgrades you have on both. now the jumps i wont be doing those i like it planted hahaha dont want to spend what i dont have right now.
DEU 8:18 ESV
Still got mine. and it still works. LOL
Next up is to tape the tires. These axial tires seem pretty thin. and not much tread block to hold them together. Not shure how they will hold up to brushless power. I think the tape will be there only chance. otherwise they feel like they would baloon like crazy. Time will tell. Also the axial rims had a real sharp edge on the outer corners.spent some time last night trimming and sanding to round them over. This should keep them from cutting into the tires on the sidewalls.
Thinking of making a home made tire balancer.
I think I have to agree with DR.J But dont get me wrong. Im not building this thing to sit on a shelf and look pretty.
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 07-17-2012 at 08:21 AM.
You might be ok with thinner tires, as far as ballooning. I know those heavy treaded tires really balloon from all their rotating mass, like trenchers. I bet those geode/maxx tires perform pretty good, and I cant believe the golden arrow still works!
Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
Good point. The tread is definetly not heavy. The geode/maxx tires work good. but I did blow one off the rim and rip it. My own fault ,6s full throttle. Happy trigger finger. LOL Probably came unglued first.