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  1. #1
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    Angry 5451R Steel Constant-Velocity Driveshafts - PROBLEMS

    Just went to the local Hobby shop because one of my factory CV shafts broke. I saw that they had the steel CV shafts for sale. Before I bought them I asked the guy at the shop if they would work on my erbl. He said, "they are of the car but not sure." SO called Traxxas and selected the prompt for Technical questions for ordering parts.
    The guy answered and I told him I have an ERBL with LT suspension and was considering buying the 5451R set but needed to know if there is ANYTHING else that needs to go with this kit or ANY tips or advice? I then asked, would these be a direct bolt-on? He told me to buy them and they will bolt up directly with NO additional parts needed or anything.

    I installed them, turned the car on, hit the throttle, and both front axles slipped out of the coupling on the car side. Not at the same time, one came out, I fixed it then adjusted my pushrod adjustment to the farthest hole on the lower control arms to limit the suspension travel and make it ride lower.

    Played for about 3 minutes and the other one came out and hit the pavement and went through the blue silicone boot.....


    Can someone that actually KNOWS shed some light on what happened? Because calling tech support for the manufacturer of the parts I've purchased to ask for guidance OBVIOUSLY doesn't help..... SO I just bought a $70-80 kit from the advice of a tracts rep and now I have busted boots and scratched CV shaft end couplings (which should be clean and oiled, free of sand and debris and slick for rotation).

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    I don't have or use them, but with the LT rockers IDB you need the extended cups, or try the P2 rockers first.
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-20-2015 at 11:58 PM. Reason: R
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  3. #3
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    Any idea of the part numbers for that?



    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    I don't have or use them, but with the LT rockers IDB you need the extended cups, or try the P2 cockers first.

  4. #4
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    Extended drive cups: TRA5153R
    Google is your friend.
    Erbe
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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    I'm not sure
    for a pic only, this kit has both lengths of cups. I can't find the part number is the search.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-5451...item20f47ef8bc

    I think this is it, need someone to confirm unless I can find it in a post
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5153R


    lol ^ there you go^
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    That is confirmed
    Erbe
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  7. #7
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    the steel cv's are useless without the extended drive cups. i found that out the hard way also

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier srpawski's Avatar
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    Yep. I am putting the extended cups on both the front and back. Everyone says especially if you use RPM arms as much as they flex they will pop out without the extended cups.

  9. #9
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    RPM arms and the traxxas steel shafts are not a good combo.
    Erbe
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  10. #10
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    i run rpm arms and traxxas steel cvds with extended cups and have no issues

  11. #11
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    I did Google it and I did find some. But it is these https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5153R which say "REAR". I need all 4. The front is what is popping out.

    Quote Originally Posted by ronnyen View Post
    Extended drive cups: TRA5153R
    Google is your friend.

  12. #12
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    Thank you all for the helpful info.

    It's simply upsetting that I went above and beyond to call TRAXXAS and ask them BEFORE buying these if there are ANY other parts needed and was told NO.

    Now I have busted boots, chipped ballpoints and there's no telling what else because I was misled by a TRAXXAS PARTS PROFESSIONAL.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    I don't worry to much about the dust covers. I even took them off one truck.
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post5570206
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Oh yes, I was not too sure either but luckily I ordered them too, this weekend hopefully all the orders arrive at the same time so that I can finally put it to the test.
    I have also changed the centre drive shaft to the steel velocity, so far it looks great, not sure yet how will it handle, like wise have seen more positive then negative. For my other erbe I have MIP on all fours and centre. That will be a while before I try them out.....but I am hoping I will be satisfied on both traxxas and MIP.
    Last edited by Jezza; 01-21-2015 at 10:32 AM.
    Live life to the fullest

  15. #15
    Traxxas Employee TireSlinger's Avatar
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    Use the P1, P2 or P3 rockers with the steel CV shafts for best results. The extended rear cups are for the long wheelbase suspension, not for the LT rockers.

    If the ends are popping out of the cups make sure your pillow balls are tightened down far enough into the arms to seat the hub carrier closest to the chassis without causing binding. If the pillow balls are too far out that moves the entire shaft away from the cup.

    Aftermarket arms may flex a lot or may not be the exact same length and cause issues with the shafts popping out.

    Personally I don't run with the dust boots on the dog bone end. I like to be able to easily see signs of wear or alignment issues where the shaft may be getting too close to the edge of the cup. Unless you're running in really nasty conditions (sand, deep mud, etc.) the dust boots are not totally necessary although they do look nice.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TireSlinger View Post
    Use the P1, P2 or P3 rockers with the steel CV shafts for best results. The extended rear cups are for the long wheelbase suspension, not for the LT rockers.

    If the ends are popping out of the cups make sure your pillow balls are tightened down far enough into the arms to seat the hub carrier closest to the chassis without causing binding. If the pillow balls are too far out that moves the entire shaft away from the cup.

    Aftermarket arms may flex a lot or may not be the exact same length and cause issues with the shafts popping out.

    Personally I don't run with the dust boots on the dog bone end. I like to be able to easily see signs of wear or alignment issues where the shaft may be getting too close to the edge of the cup. Unless you're running in really nasty conditions (sand, deep mud, etc.) the dust boots are not totally necessary although they do look nice.
    So I pobably do not need them then, well at least they will be there if I decide to get the wide wheel base.
    I am running the long rockers at the moment 90t and 120t , written on them ( I have to re-read on them again).
    Live life to the fullest

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier srpawski's Avatar
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    I figured I would just put them on since I am using RPM. I'm using try track on the back. Is there any foul in using them if I'm not using the LT arms? I am going to run progressive 3. I have the extensions for both the front and back.

  18. #18
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    Yes, you ned the extended drive cups.
    Erbe
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  19. #19
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    Thanks. I changed back to the rockers that came with it (i think P2). It seems to work fine, but now it won't rock crawl as well

    I would simply like to option to run whatever rockers I choose at at given time.

    The pillow balls are tight. I learned the hard way with them. I snugged them down and said... hammy the knuckle swivels on that ball, I don't think it should be that tight. So I snugged it down then backed it off about 1/4-1/2 a turn.

    Quote Originally Posted by TireSlinger View Post
    Use the P1, P2 or P3 rockers with the steel CV shafts for best results. The extended rear cups are for the long wheelbase suspension, not for the LT rockers.

    If the ends are popping out of the cups make sure your pillow balls are tightened down far enough into the arms to seat the hub carrier closest to the chassis without causing binding. If the pillow balls are too far out that moves the entire shaft away from the cup.

    Aftermarket arms may flex a lot or may not be the exact same length and cause issues with the shafts popping out.

    Personally I don't run with the dust boots on the dog bone end. I like to be able to easily see signs of wear or alignment issues where the shaft may be getting too close to the edge of the cup. Unless you're running in really nasty conditions (sand, deep mud, etc.) the dust boots are not totally necessary although they do look nice.

  20. #20
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    I also replaced the rear shock valves with the extra LT valves that came with the kit and changed over to 60w shock oil in all 4 shocks. I swapped the original springs out with the LT springs and after all was said and done..... I LOVE THE SHOCKS! Compression and rebound are awesome for 90% of my conditions.

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