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  1. #1
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    I want no wheelies

    What can i do as far as physical tuning to reduce my wheelies? I already have the punch down very low and can still manage backflips easily. Is there any physical tuning that will leave my truck as low and nimble as it is now, or make it more so, and help kill acceleration destroying wheelies?

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  2. #2
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    Have you thought about installing a center diff? I think its #5614. I have heard that they help to minimize wheelies.

  3. #3
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    If you havent tried it, move the transmitter setting from 50/50 to 70/30. It will give you a little more control.

    Yea a center diff is an option... Its just tough to get the front wheels to stop spinning, even with 500,000 weight oil.

    Going from 6s to 4s is another option
    Its All relative to your perspective.

  4. #4
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Extending the wheelbase using arm set 5333R will help a little, but I found that it may contribute to faster-wearing driveshafts.

    A re-calibrated throttle finger is your best solution.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  5. #5
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    A center diff will help. You wont have a wheelie problem at all with one installed. Unless you have a huge horse power bb engine and it still will help tame the front end lifting then as well.

  6. #6
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    Loosen the slipper.
    Cars: erevo vxl, 1/16 summit, stampede vxl, tmaxx

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by revomaxx2223 View Post
    Loosen the slipper.
    +1 - Just loosen the Slipper Clutch bolt - your Spur will spin before you can wheelie...

    You can also use the Castle USB link to program your ESC to have less throttle curve - so you wont have such hard off-the-line starts...set the curve to the right, so you will have a more gradual take off and the power will be at the higher end of speed.
    Mayor VXL
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  8. #8
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    like you guys said. goto 70/30 and just go soft on the accel, thats all you need to do.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    2s or 3s, if you are a 3s run the two batts in parellel doubles run time, & harder to pull the front end up....

    or one 3s & plug adapter.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  10. #10
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    in my situation the extended wheelbase arms helped a lot. You'll have to use the extended drive cups as well.

    cheers
    emiel

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    You could try setting your punch control very high around 80% and try different torque control settings to limit your torque with this combo. Also loosen slipper clutch as suggested.
    Last edited by craig.mitch316; 07-02-2012 at 04:01 PM.
    Rock n Rolla !

  12. #12
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    im running a 2650KV 6 pole tunigy ********* on 4s with a leopard SC8 esc rolling on trenchers while attempting to control it all from a FS GT3B radio, hacked of course.

    ive got my punch turned down to around 5 or 6 out of 10. that didnt help much other then make it easier to hold wheelies.

    my slipper is as loose as i want to go, if i punch it at say, 75% throttle the slipper will squeal as the front comes up. itll squeal pretty much when ever there is heavyish throttle and at least 2 tires are on the ground.

    center diff, my truggy racing friend was suggesting one to me. id be worried about blowing out the front tires, taped or not, as i have as much or more power then the MMM does running 6s.

    i was hoping there was something i could do with the truck as it stands. in the mean time i could try less punch, say 3 or 4 out of 10.

  13. #13
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    The center diff is going to be the way to go. 100K 300k or 500k weight.

    I think the 500k will probably wheelie too much for you.

    The 300k will probably be the ticket.
    Still plenty of power all around, wheelie as desired, but not hard to keep it on the ground.
    ERBE, Summit, Thunder Tiger MT4

  14. #14
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    ive heard from some that 500K is too light and i know 100k looks like epoxy.

    i know truggies are setup to lift under heavy throttle, is there a way to tune the e revo to do the same and lift up in the rear too and not just the front?

  15. #15
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    well i have tried everything in this post and all have failed.its impossible to keep the front end down on this thing unless you use alot of weight or just be happy with 1/2 to 3/4 on the trigger.wait i lied i have not tried stepping down to 4's.i'll do that when i see a good sale on batteries.but everything else i have tried and all have failed.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    2s or 3s, if you are a 3s run the two batts in parellel doubles run time, & harder to pull the front end up....

    or one 3s & plug adapter.
    crazy.........

    have not tried stepping down to 4's

    still will pull whellies just not as easy. but a step in the right direction..
    Last edited by 87 GN; 07-03-2012 at 08:29 AM.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  17. #17
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    Ok one more suggestion. Wheel balance weights lined across the front end under the body.

  18. #18
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    I think I'll end up looking at the center diff. My set up can keep up the a MMM on 6s while I only need to feed it 4s. I don't have a 3s to try and see if I like where that goes.

  19. #19
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    Wasn't saying anything bad 87gn I have been thinking alot about going to 4s instead of 6s

  20. #20
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    You just need to learn throttle control. The truck is a beast and you need learn how to drive it. Stop tinkering with it and learn how to drive it. 4s or 6s, the front will stay down if you know how to use it.
    Signature removed due to excess awesomeness.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by revomikey View Post
    You just need to learn throttle control. The truck is a beast and you need learn how to drive it. Stop tinkering with it and learn how to drive it. 4s or 6s, the front will stay down if you know how to use it.
    YIP, what he says. Ease into the pull offs as opposed to a 0 to full throttle instantly start.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emielstroeve View Post
    extended wheelbase arms helped a lot. You'll have to use the extended drive cups
    What are extended drive cups? What is the part number?
    Sorry for thread jacking.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by revomikey View Post
    You just need to learn throttle control. The truck is a beast and you need learn how to drive it. Stop tinkering with it and learn how to drive it. 4s or 6s, the front will stay down if you know how to use it.
    Its is a beast, im just tired of no being able to use the speed and acceleration the truck has because of how easily it likes to go tires up and lid down. I drove before i thought of tinkering, now im to tinkering, as i cant do much with the crawler build i got going, and ive managed to get the truck to handle very well and figured there could be some tinkering for making the go portion better.

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  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hottrodd1090 View Post
    Wasn't saying anything bad 87gn I have been thinking alot about going to 4s instead of 6s
    you lost me, but all good..

    Thought I needed a set of 3s, just to much for where & how I drive.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  25. #25
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    here's everything you always wanted to know about extended wheelbays arms en drive cups:

    http://traxxas.com/pitpass/howto/new...lbase-Suspensi

    cheers
    emiel

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by woog421 View Post
    Have you thought about installing a center diff? I think its #5614. I have heard that they help to minimize wheelies.
    I installed a center diff on my revo and it did not help 1 bit,, I not sure if it is the 500k diff oil it came with or not.. So i bought a set of 2s batteries and its much easier to control

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