Just bought a brushless emaxx, I'm new to the rc world. I took it out a few times and obviously broke some parts ( nature of the hobby lol). I'm looking for some good upgrades to give the emaxx some more durability.
So far I bought:
Rpm arm conversion kit for the rear
Mip cvd dog bone driveshafts for the rear (seeing as the torque destroyed the plastic stock one) they same much thicker than the traxxas and I like the ball joint seems more durable.
I know to stay away from integy and I have heard mixed things about strc and hot racing for aluminum.
Basically want to know what else I should upgrade from people that know what they are doing.
I'm running 2 3s 5000 25c traxxas lipos on the stock gearing.
While I'm on it.... I'm looking to upgrade the wheels to 3.8 trenchers or big joes any gear changes have to be made as I'm running 2 3s lipos?
Thank you for taking the time and reading all of that. I look foward to your input!
Might be worth it to gear down a tooth on the pinion for big joes, unless you get trencher X (wider), id think you are fine... but Ill let the guys who have those tires answer for sure on that.
FastLane Machine (FLM), Unlimited Engineering (UE), STRC and Hot Racing are all pretty good for maxxes. Specific parts are better or worse from some of them. RPM are good for A-arms and a few other parts.
The first major parts broken on a maxx are usually a chassis, bulkhead, or differential, so if you have some extra $$$ in your budget, working on any of those is a good step. If you like to send it flying or cartwheeling, then these will be a must for you. Aluminum chassis from RCM or FLM are the best (look around the build threads for these chassis), RPM bulkheads or aluminum ones from FLM or Great Assembly are really good, and either FLM hybrids or some other 1/8th scale diff mods for those.
Again, look around the build threads to learn about the different options and if you are still unsure what is for you, start your own thread.
If you are like me and you are more of a track style guy; that is you try to go as fast as possible while keeping all 4 wheels on the ground, you will benefit from the true-track (you already have), and a few other upgrades. This type of driving tends not to be as hard on the truck as full-out bashing, crashing, jumping, and rolling, so the stock setup may well last you a long time. In this case, the upgrade-as-you-break policy is usually best.
Whatever style you are, i wish you luck and WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!
This parrot is NO MORE!!! This is an ex-parrot!!!
RPM arms are a must in front. Never tried the tru trac although I would love to. Heard lots of great things about it.
My stock driveshafts havnt broken but the dust boots are all tearing. Im waiting on some MIP splined cvds to arrive in the mail.
If your doing heavy bashing (seems like thats an affirmative) your shock caps might eventually pop off. Alu caps from traxxas fixed it for me.
The 6s reaper will eventually find your diffs and when it does, you'll hear all kinds of noises accompanied by an eerie FWD feeling.
Traxxas alu slipper pads are working well for me. A properly set slipper and a tamed trigger finger will save you lotssss of broken parts and downtime.
I have the rpm bash skids coming as well. With the 6s setup what would you advise as far as the diffs any change to gearing or upgrades I should look at to avoid damage to the diffs?
My stock traxxas diffs have held up to 4s bashing without a single failure. I would only upgrade if these diffs failed and so far they have not. Upgrades that I was thinking of trying include an aluminum diff case to stop the case from flexing (I believe Great Assembly and Integy makes them) and either Robinson Racing ring and pinion gears or Hot Racing's helical cut gears. I've never had a problem with the spider gears or carriers but there are alu upgrades available for both if you experience breakage.
Honestly the best way to prevent broken diffs is by limiting the torque going thru them via the punch control, the slipper clutch, and a tame trigger finger.
The only thing you might do with the stock diffs is make sure theyre nicely shimmed. Unfortunatly, its a lot of bench time for little result.
If you are a wheelie guy, then you will destroy your diffs, probably within 6 months. If you dont mind losing a little speed off the line to save your diffs, activate the punch control on your ESC. (I think the traxxas version has punch control???) I have the Castle Creations version of the ESC, so someone with a MXL-6s will have to clarify. Also, you can play with the throttle exponential and other stuff on your radio, just make sure the wheels are off the ground when you make throttle adjustments.
I think BL editions come with aluminum pads. Take off the tranny cover and look between the spur (big plastic gear), and the blue plate (motor mount). If the clutch has black pads, then you should upgrade them, $10 part from traxxas. If they are silver, you're fine. Back the lock nut on the clutch off 1/4 turn, that should save your diffs, or at least help.
Common diff upgrades include Losi LST and various 1/8 scale buggy diffs. These can range from $100-$300 to install, sometimes more. Best are probably KMaxx Kustoms diff cases with losi or similar diffs. Close second would be FLM hybrids with ofna or similar diffs.
Cheapest route is complete losi diffs modded into the stock bulks.
Check out the RCM Vmaxx Chassis thread... hes tested a lot of stuff and its probably the best current build thread.
This is another good one, little older:
And this i would consider one of the ultimate build threads of all time... For hours of snowed in reading:
Those are still somewhat relevant, although there are some things that have improved since 2008... Mainly the FLM chassis isnt the best on the market.
Anyway... Im still running stock diffs. Ive rebuilt several times, but only ever blown bearings. Still have all the stock gears in the front diff (rear got destroyed when the bearings failed), but i only run 4s, i have punch control turned up, and for the most part, im on low traction surfaces and I dont do a lot of jumps... Soon to be running 5s or 6s (got to keep up with the jato), so then we'll see how they last.
And a shoutout to the great Maxx heros: SuicideNeil, Popoxx, Emaxx_Quebec, and others for providing us with most of what we know today. Wherever you are, may the MAXX be with you!
Last edited by PowerToTheMaxx; 12-30-2015 at 03:14 PM.
This parrot is NO MORE!!! This is an ex-parrot!!!