So, hear me out and let me know if doing this is more work than its worth. Pretty much I've turned my E-Revo into a straight up racer. And if possible I really wanted to make this thing a little lighter.
So my idea was, take everything off this thing that isn't completely necessary. The battery doors i was going to replace with Velcro hold downs (bats are hard case), get rid of all 4 battery vents, remount the receiver without the waterproof box.
I know its not all that much weight I'd be taking off, but on such a small scale, will it make a difference? The battery doors especially are pretty heavy. And with the other stuff added in there it should make it more nimble right? Also any suggestions on other things that maybe could come off would be great. Let me know what you think, thanks!
Eliminate a servo you only need one?
ERBE,Losi 8ight,Slash 4X4
Whats a good servo you'd recommend to replace the two?
ERBE,Losi 8ight,Slash 4X4
Definitely get rid of the wing
Get rid of the Wing & Tighten slipper all the way
Tire and wheel choice can cut allot of weight.
It's win win too because less rotating mass will help performance.
Get the center diff for the transmission. You will need the power going to all 4 wheels pretty consistently, rather than being a wheelie factory.
ERBE, Summit, Thunder Tiger MT4
I would get a savox servo. My LHS has them but i know you can find them online.
Emaxx #3903, MERV
On mine I went to tower 170 single servo and ditched rc box but cut off corner that holds antenna tube, so that way I can still use it as a mount, have all traxxas alum pushrods, but not much else off for weight
For tires/rims I have the AKA Cityblocks. They are pretty low profile and light weight. I had an Airtronics 200oz servo that I wasn't using, so I took the stockers out, and that helped a lot with steering as well as weight. I got rid of the receiver box, battery vents, and battery doors too. Allllllll that crap out of there actually ended up being a decent amount of weight. I'm gonna take it to the track tomorrow and see if there is any kind of difference. Thanks for the replies, keeeeep em coming
The rpm true track set drops 32grams
If your just racing you can remove the bumpers ( I think the skids add enough protection for a track)
I'm not sure of the weight
I'd recommend getting wheels with an offset, they add a lot of stability to the truck so you can go through corners faster and its more forgiving of small mistakes over jumps/whoops.
Wow, I didn't know the RPM set dropped it that much, that's pretty impressive. I've got the RPMs in the front, guess I'm gonna grab those for the rear too. I wish I would have gotten offset wheels, I will when these get bald.
And I don't know if your actually racing or just playing at the track, but there is a lot to weight to be lost in your batteries.
My 2s ******* 5800 mah batteries weigh 302grams each 604 total
If I were doing a short race I could get away with the same bats just less mah like 3300mah
That ony 231grams 462 total that's 142grams right there.
Last edited by Freeagnt54; 06-08-2012 at 12:38 AM.
Yes, I am actually racing. I would not be going through this much trouble if I wasn't haha. There is a trophy race next weekend, and I aim to win first this time. Last time I won 3rd, but I've changed a lot on this thing for the better.
How much weight have you lost? let us know how you do in the race.
"enjoy your ride"
I'm gonna tryn borrow a scale from my work, if I can't I'll have to bring the parts in with me on Monday. ill let you know if there is a noticeable difference after I run some practice laps today. and ill definitely let you know how I do at the race on next Sunday.
less weight doesnt always equal faster track times... set-up and drivers skill is usually most important...
Traxxas please sell kits!
RPM trutrac for the rear and Black aluminum tmaxx tubes for the front toe links would help. Also traxxas red aluminum pushrods at all 4 corners would help as well.
A new set of strong/lightweight batteries would deffinately be on the must have list.
Its All relative to your perspective.
thanks anr2442! those are quite a few things I didn't think of. racer83L, taking some weight off is going to make this thing quicker in the corners, which is what I really want. I've been practicing every chance I get, and getting my skills up is going to make the biggest difference of all. in the last race my revo had the highest average MPH and yet I still only won 3rd. all I'm looking to do is improve the handling a bit.
Drop a meatball and loose some of that spaghetti. Inside joke.
Don't do the aluminum rocker post. I just broke one at the track (I still TQ'ed). Light weight is great if you don't need durability.
You can replace the Pivot Balls with the aluminum; part number 4933X. They are sold in packs of 4. Each pack cuts 19 grams so if you replaced front and rear you can cut over an 1oz.
You can also replace the rocker arm post with aluminum; part number 5354X. Doing this will trim another 16 grams.
I’m sure there are other parts too but I just thought of these.
SUMMIT, SUMVO, ERBE, EMAXX & REVO 3.3
I don't race but I'll throw out what I always do on my e-revos (4 currently).
1. Single Servo, usually run an Ace DS1015 but wondering if the Savox would be a good move..
2. Aluminum pushrods and turnbuckes
3. RPM True Tracks
4. Titanium pillow balls
5. Titanium Hinge Pin kit
6. Titanium Rocker Posts
7. Badlands with 1/2" offset wheels
I will do other things also but those are the important ones (in my opinion) to get you going..
How much does getting rid of the Wing account for? anyone measured it?
Get rid of the Wing & Tighten slipper all the way
so with all the stuff previously listed off, I dropped 6.65 oz (roughly 190 grams). that seems pretty substantial considering all I did was take off the bat doors, bat vents, rx box, and went to one servo.
without bats it weighs 8.7lbs and with it weighs just about 10lbs dead.
I have been using this one for almost 3 years now... But now that I want to install the Big Joes... Upgrading to something that can push out more...
E–Revo │ E-Revo BE
ITCHY THROTTLE FINGER!
Biggest difference other than servo on my setup was grinding the inside edges of my steel pillow balls to allow more movement and HD spring in servo save with a small flat washer for more force.
And since I have been racing I took my true tracks off everything but my bashers, adjusting the rear toe will make a world of difference in your handling through corner
Hope this helps
yeah after I adjusted the toe and camber properly it was tight in the corners. one thing I keep hearing about the true tracks, is that the balls pop out of them pretty consistently. I think I'll stick with the stocks, and use just the RPM arms.
just in case anyone is interested, taking that weight off made it noticeably better in the corners. so I'm definitely going to start putting some of the lighter weight parts that you guys suggested to get it even lighter. thanks guys!
A lot of useful info on this thread...thanks
Last edited by craig.mitch316; 06-11-2012 at 11:38 PM.
Rock n Rolla !
Sooo, the result of taking off some weight is: Firstly it is a lot easier/more responsive to control in the air (which is an added bonus). My main goal was accomplished, it handled the corners noticeably better, and the average MPH for all my laps was up as well. I won 2nd place Which for now, I am happy with haha. Here are some pic of what it ended up looking like:
a little velcro was necessary to keep the body from wiggling after the removal of the battery doors
ALSO, don't get on my case about the Dual VXLs. I know they are not ideal, but they work for now lol!
Couldn't you save a lot of weight by going to a single brushless motor and ESC?
And I have seen someone dremel off the entire battery compartment roof and use velcro. that might shave a little more weight!
Great thread btw!!
And i don't remember where they mounted the reciever or ESC now that i think about it..
Thanks BenjaminLester. Yes I would save some weight, gain speed, and of course gain the ability to fine tune the settings if I switched to a single motor setup. But, I don't have the cashola for that rite now haha. The reason I did the dual setup was because it was cheap (160$ total). Not a bad price for brushless power Not ideal, but it works for now.
I did consider cutting off that plastic as you said, but decided not to because it seemed like it would've taken some rigidity out of the chassis, and I would've lost the ability to go back to the battery doors if I ever felt the need.
Touché on both topics!
Cut holes in the body like the proline flo tek.
Cars: erevo vxl, 1/16 summit, stampede vxl, tmaxx